New project>> replacing the Norcold 1201 with a residential fridge

John,

We use Velcro strips. One on the freezer and two on the frig door. They work and we've been on some bad twisting roads.

ken

The way our door handles are configured I am able to put a short dowel  (3 inches) between  the freezer and lower door hand hold sections and secure it with a bungee cord attached to a side  wall.  Works,  but on very curvy roads I still needed more.  I now  have those refrigerator rods across the inside of each shelf to secure the baskets that hold the items.  Freezer needed the rods across shelves as well. When  I am parked all that  stuff goes into hiding.  Maybe I went nuts overfilling the refrigerator because I could!  Those door shelves hold a lot!

Just don't forget to secure it again when you get on the road again.  Don't ask me how I know.

Betty

Hey John & Jane.....that new refer looks nice.  Is that finish brushed platinum or ??

Power wise, I think you'll find it typically runs a lot less than 500 watts. 
This guideline for solar apps estimates 380 watts and 1450kwh for a year (about 165 watt/hr average): http://www.oksolar.com/technical/consumption.html

On my solar system here at home, I have a digital energy monitoring that charts both my usage and the solar generation to my laptop.  So on a real time basis, I can turn my refrigerator on and off and see the change in wattage.  My 2004 Kitchen Aid only pulls 160 watts, but since it is 26 cubic feet, I think the duty cycle is longer than yours will be.

Regarding running off the inverter, one thing you could do is set the temp colder before you unplug from the grid.  Then you'll have a lot of thermal momentum that might last half a day ..... depending on the extent of the heat wave you're in.

For boondocking, if your "Jeeping hobby" leads you in that direction, you can get your self a small generator. I have a little 650 Honda generator that runs 6-8 hrs/day on less that 1 gal of gas to keep my batteries charged (four 6v Trojan golf cart @120ah each).  In your case you'd just run the refer during the day directly off 117vac for greater efficiency.

Let us know what power and duty cycle your new baby actually consumes.

Also tell Jane, I really like her t-shirt too!

Good luck,
Bill 

Betty Brewer said:

.. I now  have those refrigerator rods across the inside of each shelf to secure the baskets that hold the items.  Freezer needed the rods across shelves as well..

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Yeah, we need to get some of those rods.  trick is to find a Camping World or large RV dealer.  We saved the plastic bins from the Norcold in case DW wants use them to organize food.

Duner said:

Hey John & Jane.....that new refer looks nice.  Is that finish brushed platinum or ??

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Hi to you Bill & thanks!  The doors and handles are stainless steel.

Power wise, I think you'll find it typically runs a lot less than 500 watts.

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The compressor is physically small and my guess the running current of it is 2-3 amps.  The condenser fan is also physically small and I'd guess maybe half an amp or less.  I need run the gen set and look at the current draw of the fridge.

Regarding running off the inverter, one thing you could do is set the temp colder before you unplug from the grid.  Then you'll have a lot of thermal momentum that might last half a day ..... depending on the extent of the heat wave you're in.

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I was wondering if there would be enough residual cold to carry us through the night if we shut the inverter off.  So far where we have boondocked for Jeeping events, there are no generator restrictions and some of the guys run the gen sets 24 hours a day.

That's a good idea about hauling a small generator.  I have a very old but running Honda 650 (or thereabouts) that I could throw on the trailer.

Nice looking installation, John!

Condensation amount will vary by climate (humidity) and individual usage, but modern fridges are well-sealed and typically don't build up moisture inside unless you open the door a lot. However, I can conceive of enough water to "slosh" if you happen to travel right after a defrost cycle.

Some brands/models may have a broad, flat evaporation pan, but most newer fridges have gotten away from that design and have a relatively deep "cup" instead. The cup or tank design doesn't evaporate as fast as the pan, but it makes for a slimmer cabinet, reduces the "yuch"  factor underneath and lets air flow through better (or so fridge makers say, anyway).

Yeah, we need to get some of those rods.  trick is to find a Camping World or large RV dealer.

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Or a Wal-Mart.  They're disguised as inexpensive spring loaded curtain rods in the housewares section.

I was wondering if there would be enough residual cold to carry us through the night if we shut the inverter off.

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I usually turn off the inverter while sleeping.  My fridge easily stays cold 8 hours or more as long as I leave the doors closed.

Lou Schneider said:

Or a Wal-Mart.  They're disguised as inexpensive spring loaded curtain rods in the housewares section.

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Yep or a Home Depot/ Lowes  in the curtain section. I think I found them in a local Ace Hardware too.  They are longer and much less expensive than camping world.

Thanks Gary!

Curtain rods - all-righty!  Great tip.

Finished!  (For now.)  Life is getting back to normal.  The trim is okay, not great but it will do fine for the summer.

Congratulations, John, great job!

Did you do anything to secure the fridge in place?

Thanks Bill! 

Yup - couple of screws in the bottom pan - front corners and one in the rear which should get us by for the summer.  When we get home in the fall, I'll add some tapered wood cleats near the top on the two sides so when you push the fridge in, it will be guided and locked into fore-aft position.  The three screws should be enough to keep in its athwartships position, but if not, I can come up with a plan "B."

Just curious John, what was the weight differences in the old and new refer? Did you check?

The Norcold 1201 is a heavy sucker, about 240 lbs w/icemaker, and residential fridges in the 16-18 cubic ft range are usually lighter.  200-205 lbs is typical. Maybe 210 w/icemaker.

We replaced our 4- door Norcold about a year ago in our fifth wheel and love it. We full time and never have had a problem with the drain pan. Ours is a double door 21 qu.ft. whirlpool. The width was on the money for the cut out but I had to remove the top style from the cabinet and lower the shelve below it about 2". It was an easy job. Here is a link to our install we posted.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=46472.msg427202#msg427202

SargeW said:

Just curious John, what was the weight differences in the old and new refer? Did you check?

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Yes and Gary is right-on with the weights.

falconhunter - looks great!  That's about the size of our house fridge.

John Canfield said:

I'll add some tapered wood cleats near the top on the two sides so when you push the fridge in, it will be guided and locked into fore-aft position. 

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The wood cleats were what I was thinking of as well, only on the bottom. I think your approach is better for resisting forces in turns, although there may not be enough clearance to tilt out too far. I look forward to your write-up once you get home. There is a very real possibility that I will have to follow suit at some point. Your project descriptions on the website have been terrific.

Just got the FMCA magazine ......wouldn't you know, a 4-page feature how-to article on "Installing a Residential Refrigerator in a Motorhome". 

It states that sometimes the refrig may have to go thru the windshield....that'd be a show stopper for me. 

Good luck John!  ...although I know it takes some skill too.

Bill

After many hours of work, I finally documented the Norcold replacement  .  The Frigidaire is working great and DW is really pleased (and me too!)

Nice write up on the install process.

John, as expected, a great project.  Here are some stainless catches that I plan to use when I do my residential fridge install:

http://www.homeclick.com/sugatsune-hc-85-s-sliding-door-latch/p-332141.aspx?ven=4003003

Was this a counter-depth fridge and, if not, what is the final depth with door installed?

Gary

Gary - not a counter-depth fridge!  We looked over the selection at the Galax Lowe's and this one had the height we could work with. 

The door sticks out 4" from the face frame, not including the handles.  The fridge looks like it belongs there.  Actually it's necessary for the fridge box to be about flush with the cabinet opening (the face frame) so the door can open fully our box is flush with the face frame.

Those latches are nice but our Velcro tabs are working extremely well,  Cheap and very simple to implement.