Decisions...decisions... :D

;D    i'm zeroing in on must haves and i'm finding the higher end dp's all pretty much have one piece fiberglass roofs, larger engines and tow/ccc, and greater handling chassis and tag axles.  Aqua/hydra hot/hurricane seems like well worth it..even macerator pumps sound great to have.  But what i don't need or even want is the glitz and fancy ceilings and gold plated fixtures..so finding the right blend of quality construction, strong chassis, the best features and great craftsmanship is the goal.  Early 2000s have most of these features available save the modern electronics which is easily adaptable but i hear that many banks won't finance 10 year old and older units.  Makes me wonder how one is to sell a 2003 cc affinity or monaco signature which is still easily worth 130,000.  Sure retired folks can afford it or those who sell their homes but since many who are willing to finance it cannot that limits the market for those units and as a cash buyer could present an opportunity.  I have a salesman right now "advising" me to buy a 2008 HR Scepter 42pdq with 8000 miles, it really is loaded with everything mentioned before, for 160,000, 17k below low retail of 177,000 and it's truly clean and in great shape...even has the sleep number bed...but i know if i spend that much it is that much to lose in appreciation, property taxes and interest costs as i don't have that much cash to spend....his argument is you're buying it under low retail you can sell it for low retail 3 years from now and only lose 15k whereas i could also buy an older simpler one for 50k.  The more you spend the more you can lose.  But there is a price of admission, sure and it's prolly worth spending 15k for the quality of that 400hp, roadmaster tag axle, 4 slide unit to live in for 3 years, ......maybe.

Salesman math is extremely suspect under any circumstances and trying to "make money" on the book value three years from now is a for sure crapshoot.

Like all high dollar non-essential items, there is a niche market, and if the price is right, there will always be a buyer, often elusive, but there will be one when desire and price meet. People in that market don't tend to use conventional financing anyway.

The question you have to answer is, after considerable research, does this coach, at this price, suit your needs and tickle your fancy? If you are going to try to make money down the road, pick another gambling venue where you have better odds.

Personally, I believe if you really want something, you will find a way to own it and enjoy it. But try to be realistic about your expectations. At this level, there is a high price for admission, but over the long term, you could amortize that investment quite well if you keep it. Three years might be a little short.

All these questions are yours to answer and very personal. The rest of us are just throwing darts.

Whatever you do, spend some time really doing your homework. The Forum is a great place for lots of information; some of it will support your decision, some will not. Take it all with a grain of salt.

And, above all else, enjoy this part of the journey! Good luck!

Kim has hit it on the head, you are also very wise in your observation.

It all boils down to what works for you the best and the price you want to pay for that experience. A salesman job is to try and get you into something, the higher the better, you spend more, he makes more. Start with a lower priced coach, if you like the experience you can always upgrade with the lesser chance of being upside down. There are numerous very nice coaches that would fit your needs and a lot lower chance of breaking the bank.

A corvette and a chevette with both get you to where you are going, question is how much are you willing to pay for the ride?

Good luck with the search.

An RV is NOT an investment, it is a hobby and a luxury along with being a black hole for money. Buying the rig is only your first expense. Have you priced the cost of yearly maintenance on DP? Add in the cost of repairs, upgrades, insurance and storage and you will quickly see the salesmans math go right down the tubes. RV salesmen are used car salesman and all he is trying to do is sell you an RV and will say just about anything to do it. I would suggest buying the older one for $50k and forget about the high end one. The more options an RV has means there is more to go wrong and more to maintain. If this is your first RV you should understand most of us don't get it right the first time and are usually looking to upgrade in a year or two. Starting off small and upgrading later is the best route to take since it will minimize your losses.

ZR1, If the dealer is suggesting you can sell the Scepter in 3 years for $15,000 less than your purchase price, you should seriously consider doing so.  Just make sure his representation a condition of the sales contract.  And if he's willing to do that, and this is a well financed dealership, please give me his phone number. 

You can be sure that dealer will NOT buy it back at low retail in three years. Or anywhere near that.  And if he is willing to sell it now for "$17k under book", what makes you think it would be worth book value 3 years from now. If the unit will not actually sell for book value, then either the book is wrong or the unit is not in average condition.  I can also assure you that it is going to depreciate a lot more than $17k over three years.  In short, the salesman is spreading hogwash.

I think you have an optimistic view of the value of older units too. Few high end models will still bring $130k after 10 years. I know - I own one!

Well you have touched on the main problem with older RVs. I just bought a 2003 Bounder Diesel and had a hard time finding someone to finance past 72 months.  I would not try to buy one as an investment. Lending institutions look at a different ?KELLEY BLUE BOOK? They are only interested in the wholesale price. They told me what the low average high retail prices are doesn?t matter to them.
You are looking at an RV that in 3 years will need the tiers replaced that can cut into your ?profit? quite a bit. I just got a quote from a local place, Mich XRV  $697.31 ea or for 8 for $5578.48 that is installed. Yes the tier was only $586.53 the rest is tax and labor.
Bill

Thank you all very much for your valuable opinions and for sharing your experience here.  It's great to come here for unbiased information.  Is wholesale pricing available?  I know the consumer online version of nada is just depreciation off of the original msrp.  This is why true wholesale value, which is based on auction and market data would be so valuable.  In the case of the sceptor,  he did show me the actual bank version of the nada, comes out monthly, isn't that right?  So,  despite that i'm learning that all "recreational vehicles", be they mhs, boats or atvs, depreciate viciously and cost us significant upkeep money as well.  I'm also learning that 'full-timing" in an RV is not a frugal way to live.  I was under a different impression. Regardless,  i still believe there is a sweet spot in finding the best mh value... precisely the best combination of age and model is still not clear to me.  I know there is an element of personal values in this equation tempered by available funds. 

Wholesale pricing is available from NADA, you just have to be willing to pay for it.  It's listed in the versions you purchase from them, I believe it's $175 for the online versions, and $137 for the print version, which I believe come out twice a year, Sept and May.
John

Many libraries have the subscription NADA guides in their reference section - ask around.  And your bank or credit union may be willing to share their data with you, but you usually have to ask about a specific coach. They probably won't hand you the NADA book to  do your own research.

Thanks Gary

zr1sparky said:

I'm also learning that 'full-timing" in an RV is not a frugal way to live.

Click to expand...

Full timing can most definitely be a frugal way to live. A few years ago I bought a 27 foot 1985 Allegro class A for $2600. I put a $900 set of tires on it, made a few more minor repairs and lived in it for two years. There are RV parks were you can stay for $200 a month all utilities paid except propane. There are $500,000 motorhomes and RV parks that charge $1400 a month. So it is strictly a matter of your priorities and where you want to live.

The real problem is some people are under the impression that you can buy a 70s era class C for $800 and go live off the grid and live virtually for free. That's not going to happen.