Replacing engine air filter FL XC chassis

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Wagonmaster2

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I'm getting ready to replace the engine air filter on my 2004 Meridian with the Freightliner XC chassis again.  Some place I remember reading the best procedure for this replacement and I don't remember the routine from the last time I did it.  I've tried several searches on different Forum including the Freightliner Forum but am not finding any help.

There are two clamps on the front end of the filter and it seems it works best to loosen just one of them but I don't remember which one that is.  Don't think there's any difficulty with the connection on the rear of the filter, just that front one.  Can't remember either why there are two clamps on the front of the filter either.

Would really be nice if my rememberance would last better over the 3-4 years between each time but guess my 75 year-old thinking cap must have gotten blown off in the wind back a few years. 
 
Thanks from me too. Will be replacing the one on my Journey soon so I saved those instructions.

Jerry
 
I'm glad that my step-by-step air filter replacement blog post is a help to ya'll.  I've been helped over the years from others so I'm honored to be able to return the favor!  :)

Best Regards!
 
Isn't it great how we're able to learn so much from each other's mistakes, trials, and experience?  Can't imagine not having a computer with all the help we get.  Remembering all the dirt in my face and clothes from working in my Dad's garage back in the 50's and after all the dirt was mentioned I did crawl under there last night with a spray bottle of Simple Green then a few minutes later with the garden hose and spray nozzle.  Will see if I did any good. 
 
Boy, that front hose is a real bugger.  The rear hose comes off easy and no problem with the two clamps holding the filter but with the front one having that ridge on the filter end and the muffler being in the way it's really hard to get any kind of hold on things with both hands at the same time and no way to pry on anything and twist at the same time.  A second set of hands would be real handy about now.  Finally got the rubber to turn loose of the outlet end but still wrestling to get the filter completely out of the rubber.  Resting and trying to catch my breath right now, will get back at it in a few minutes.
 
Finally got the new filter installed, really quite a job.  I'd lot rather change the oil/filter in both the engine and Allison together than this air filter.  And after 4 years it didn't look all that dirty and the paper filter didn't feel brittle like it would flake apart.  I've been changing the air filter every 4 years instead of the 3 that Cat recommends and from the looks of my old filter it would be good for another 2-3 years.

I had a Cat dealer tell me the paper in these filters could deterioate and migrate into the engine/injectors causing all sorts of problems.  Has anyone else heard of this happening?
 
Allen, I've used the Baldwin filters for 3-5 yrs, no longer for just that reason. Some of the cheaper filters have had problems, especially the recycled cleaned filters so stay away from them. Watch your indicator to make sure it is working, new filter 8" first start at idle, app 11" after first normal run. Try not to change it before 20" if possible. Air filters work best the last 2/3 of their life, just the opposite of fluid filters. Changing too often actually does more harm than good when it comes to air. Use a damp rag to wipe out the elbows and everything before you reassemble.
If you loosen the muffler hanger clamp you can use your right knee to move the muffler out a bit and it makes for dropping the can a bit easier. Kind of a pain but not a bad DIY job.
 
My indicator usually sets in the 12-15 range, both during and just before changing to a new filter.  4 years ago when I replaced the filter and reset the indicator to -0- , after the first short drive it was right back to the 12-15 range.  Wonder if there's any good way, other than just replacing it, to tell if it's really working or not?

Certainly agree on that point, cutting corners on filters is no place to try to save a few dollars, or fluid either for that matter.  Dad always drilled into me that a good grade of oil was the cheapest thing you could buy for a vehicle.
 
The important point here is that the indicator is working properly as it is a very important tool. It should give you an exact reading in inches of water. You just installed a new filter, look at your readings and compare to what I have above, they should be close.
Remove the 1/8 tubing at the housing and suck on it (don't go there guys...) you should be able to increase the reading to above 20" no problem. Then hit the reset and make sure it goes back down. Start the engine at idle it should read about 12". take it out for a test run and it should raise some more. If it doesn't then it needs to be replaced. They are cheap and easy to change, make sure you're tubing from the gauge to the housing is intact and not leaking, this would be bad.
I hear you on the maint, always the cheapest way to go! Hope this helps.
 
Not real sure whose filter you are using. Call their tech line and talk to a rep and they will usually evaluate your needs (engine size, etc) and then recommend max limits based on that. Don't talk to the salesmen, good guys but they will always say change it now! I can only vouge for the baldwins, have had many at work over 5 yrs no problem. I choose to do mine by 5 if they last that long but haven't so far.
Just remembered. Had a D-7 oper call me over to ask me how he was getting exhaust out of his muffler and intake when engine was running. Had him idle down and sure enough intake was smoking. Took it apart and found the outer element was so dirty it had caught fire! He didn't notice a loss of power, just when you thought you have seen everything!
 
I changed my air filter at 5 years after experiencing an unexplained loss of power. The filter minder indicated flow was still ok, but the new filter gave me noticeably better acceleration and hill climbing. Checking further, I learned that my filter size (air flow rating) is barely adequate for the engine's air needs at peak horsepower, so even a modest amount of dirt was having an impact.

By the way, the old filter was in excellent mechanical condition -  no sign of deterioration at all.
 
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