motorhome overweight

We have been fulltiming a little over a year.  We decided to have our vehicle weighed at a pilot not too long ago and realized we are over weight.  How big of a deal is that?  How do full timers do it without being overweight?  I honestly don't know what we would get rid of! :-[]

The best advice I have heard is to go through your possessins and separate out the things you have not used in the past six months.  The likelihood that you will use them in the next six is so slim that you can often safely get rid of them.  There are proably some exceptions for seasonal clothes, etc., but it really does work.  The other is to make a pact that you will not buy anything new unless you promise to get rid of something you already have so the collection does not grow. We have often been at a flea market for example, and my wife finds a wonderful top that she really must have  I always agree and ask her which top she has decided to get rid of as soon as we get back to the trailer.  That often cause her to reevaluate the current decision.

And then there are the more difficult decisions like getting a new rig with more capacity.  It is interesting as you look at various rigs how much some have and how little others have.  Good to consider when you are buying so you are prepared, I guess.

The hardest part of full timing is downsizing. John hit the nail on the head. Either get rid of a bunch of stuff or buy a bigger motorhome. I think being overweight is not safe. Your suspension was not designed for the additional weight and the strain could cause problems.

Some big shiny new rigs come with as little as 600 pounds of extra CCC (cargo carrying capacity) That's certainly not a responsible manufacturer in my mind, but they keep on selling. Many people don't recognize that they are overweight (the rig, not them personally) and using the "maximum inflation" embossed on the side of their tires they just keep on moving down the road, wondering why so many people have blowouts. Eventually this leads to other problems. Cracked frames have been a problem in the past. Additions of overload springs, spring helpers, air bags in the springs, new springs, etc are common. Cracks, bulges and separations can be caused by movement where there wasn't designed to be movement. Abnormal brake wear, bearing failures, steering problems, etc. are all common.

So what is the solution? Awareness is a big part. Before buying a rig check the weight, decide what you'll carry and then determine if that rig is suited for what you intend to do. Think about your short term usage and your long term plans. I cringe every time someone says to just buy a rig that will do what you want it to do now and then buy something else later. For me, a guy who hates buying and selling, that's a waste of money, and effort. If you are taking weekend trips to a local campground 600 pounds of CCC may be adequate. If you are planning a 3 week dry camping trip to the backwoods I think you are overloading and don't have the correct rig.

How do full timers do it? Some do it by living a frugal life. One small tv (if any) a minimum of clothes, and trading books at the thrift store (used to be one of my favorite pastimes until Kindle) Others do it with tag axles. You are on the right track just by being aware of the problem and taking the steps you can to avoid problems.

Here are some things you can do:
Replace tires with a load range higher
Drive more conservatively, saving brakes and wear on suspension components
Buy consumables and food close to the campground instead of taking them the entire distance.
Travel with tanks closer to empty than full. Fuel tanks would take priority.
Refine the "needs" and make some things do double duty.
and my favorite, go commando every now and again saving on clothes space (if that doesn't generate comments nothing will)

Ken

lb0456 said:

we are over weight.  How big of a deal is that?  How do full timers do it without being overweight?

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Depends on what kind of a motorhome, I think. If you are on a chassis that was originally designed as a motorhome, maybe 10% heavy is not the worst thing in the world, but you would have to be on slightly overrated tires with the correct tire pressures. But remember that's why weight enforcement is one of the big things for the highway police. They know that pressing your luck takes a toll over a long haul. Overloaded trucks is a big contributor to the accident rate and you could take a hint from that.

If you are on a modified truck chassis like some of the smaller motorhomes, I would think it even more critical. I don't suspect a lot of additional engineering went into using those frames, brakes, tires, etc. for such a weight extreme as you would have with the motorhome. And then add the fatigue factor of metal age and your risk increases somewhat.

Your motorhome may have to go on a diet. As others have stated, there's a certain amount of discipline required to full time, and one of the areas you have to economize on is what do you really need to enjoy the lifestyle. It's a personal choice, certainly, and not always easy to buckle in to. Letting go of "stuff" was the hardest thing we did, and we do it still, two years later. (And we were 4000# light on the last weigh in... 8) )

Since you didn't give any numbers, nor identify the make and model of coach, it is hard to offer practical advice. Some coaches have very little cargo capacity, so can easily be overweight on one axle or even both. With those, you can only go on a strict weight diet or start making plans for a different coach.  On those with more reasonable weight limits, it behooves you to take a second look at what you are carrying and whether you really need it.  Awareness of your weight limit is the key.

Is it a big deal? It is not in the sense that the wheels are not going to fall off tomorrow because you are 1 lb over, but it is in the sense that you are overtaxing the design limits of the suspension and exceeding the capability of the brake system.  Over the long term, there will be premature wear and tear on chassis components, and every extra lb means a bit of extra stopping distance.

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. We have a 2008 HR Endeavor with a Roadmaster chassis. GVW is 33k. Last time we weighed it was 38 including our car and tow dolly.  Don't know how much it will help but we are getting rid of dolly and getting tow bar. Also, we have lots of food in cupboards we will be getting rid of and shopping more often.  We do have a stackable WD which will be our LAST resort to get rid of.

lb0456 said:

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. We have a 2008 HR Endeavor with a Roadmaster chassis. GVW is 33k. Last time we weighed it was 38 including our car and tow dolly.  Don't know how much it will help but we are getting rid of dolly and getting tow bar. Also, we have lots of food in cupboards we will be getting rid of and shopping more often.  We do have a stackable WD which will be our LAST resort to get rid of.

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The GVW does not include the trailer. I think you are probably in great shape. The total of the vehicle and the trailer is GCVW.

Well, we're getting closer to figuring this all out . As Tom said, you are probably within the coach limits but maybe not by much. When you were weighed, you should have gotten a readout with your front axle, drive axle and trailer (car and dolly). You probably have between 5k and 10k pounds on the trailer and your chassis is probably rated for 10k trailer weight, for a total GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of 43k.

Next you need to review the readouts for the coach axles and compare them to the GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) shown on your weight placard by the driver's seat. Individual wheel weights are best but the scales at truck stops only give you axle totals. Since RVs can have 500-1,000# variances between left and right wheels, an axle can be within range but an individual wheel can be overloaded. We recommend setting your tire pressures based on 500#s over the axle weight to allow for that variance if you only have axle weights.

Finally, if you do change to a 4 down tow rather than the dolly, don't forget that you will need a supplemental braking system for the car since your coach's brakes are designed to stop only the GVWR, not the GCWR. Your dolly has the supplemental brakes so you are OK with that.

Thanks for your help. I feel better now.  We will take your advice and check it all out. Won't forget about braking system either. Thanks

I am a fulltimer.

With a washer/dryer you should be able to travel with a lot less clothes and towels etc. It was the number one reason I bought a 50 pound compact washer. It does magic!  I would rather have the 50 pound washer than 50 pounds in extra towels, sheets and clothes.  So I am plenty happy with this arrangement.

Eat through the pantry.  Grocery stores are plentiful in America.

To save weight I don't buy drinks. I make iced tea from tea bags, I buy concentrated juices.  I don't buy bottled water, I bought a  Brita water filter pitcher. Water based drinks and cases of sodas and beers are a huge weight.

When grocery shopping I try to even buy my condiments and stuff in plastic rather than glass.

Get rid of things you don't use or rarely use. I gave away the toaster and make toast in a dry fry pan on the stove. Just as fast and you can just dust out the pan afterwards, don't even have to wash it unless you are making buttered toast or garlic toast. Ditto for the blender, I used it once last year, so it was re-gifted. 

If you are using old clunky TV's, dump those for a slim LED.  I bought a 24" LED and once I dumped the heavy glass base and mounted it on the wall, the TV barely weighed 4 pounds.

If you are traveling with a desktop computer, dump it for a lightweight laptop.  Review your dishes, pots and pans. I got rid of several heavy pots because I just didn't use them much. I have no baking pans, I just buy the foil ones when the mood to bake strikes me.  I don't like plastic cups to drink out of and glass is heavy, so I use stainless steel tumblers stuck inside coozy cups.  They don't drip and are lightweight. The aluminum retro tumblers are even lighter than stainless steel. As a bonus, my stainless steel tumblers fit in the freezer so drinks are icy cold on summer days.

My RV came with a heavy grill, but I gifted that. Throughout the south, campgrounds come with grills built-in, not so much in the north and no idea about the west.  Some campground have opted to put BBQ grates on the fire pits.  Only buy enough charcoal and wood for that campground stay so you aren't hauling around extra coals and wood.

If you are a bookoholic, gift out the books and buy a Kindle.

I'd say you are probably NOT overweight. If you go here http://www.motorhomesearch.com/2008_HR_Endeavor.pdf, you can download the manufacturer's brochure. It lists the GVW for your rig at 33,000 and the GCWR at 44,000. Since you have a total weight of 38,000, you still have capacity for 6000lbs. Of course, you should weigh each axel of the coach and see just how you weigh is presently distributed. I would assume that the car and dolly are more than 5000lbs, so your weight distribution, side to side and front to rear is what you need to check.

I guess I'm not as optimistic as most here. We don't know exactly what tow dolly and tow car is included in the weight. To say he's not overweight is speculation at best.

Here's the math I use:

Total weight MH, car and dolly stated as 38,000 pounds (these calculations are based on people, supplies loaded and tanks in "normal" state during weighing. If the 80 gallon fuel tank was at 1/4 tank, then add 400 pounds to the calculations and even the pickup truck scenario is overweight)

GVW of MH 33,000 pounds. 38,000 minus 33,000 = 5,000 over GVW.
To NOT have an overloaded MH the Toad and dolly must weigh at least 5,000 pounds.

IF he's towing a full size Chevy extended cab pickup (4686 pounds), with the heavy duty tow dolly (550 pounds) then he's AT BEST 236 pounds underweight in the MH.

If he's towing a Mini Cooper (2668 pounds) and a regular tow dolly (450 pounds) then he's 1882 OVERWEIGHT in the MH.

A mid-size Chevy Malibu (3650 pounds) and regular tow dolly (450 pounds) and he's a mere 900 pounds OVERWEIGHT.

Now if I've made a mistake in my math, please point it out so we get an accurate picture. But since the OP says in his post that he's towing a car, I'm betting he's overweight. Will 200 pounds be a big problem? It's hard to tell, would you run the engine at max rpm for hours at a time and state that if it's one rpm under the max that it won't cause any undue wear or damage and that engine will last as long as one run at 80% of max capacity?

Ken

bucks2 said:

Now if I've made a mistake in my math, please point it out so we get an accurate picture.

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"Last time we weighed it was 38 including our car and tow dolly."

SeilerBird said:

"Last time we weighed it was 38 including our car and tow dolly."

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Are you trying to tell me it was 38 pounds and not 38,000 pounds. Dang it! I should have known the thing was filled with helium!

Ken

Great ideas.  We have two large bays with camping gear.  Grandkids now want nothing to do with sleeping in a tent!  Great, when we get back to Fl. in Nov. it will all go.  We go through alot of water(bottled) so we will check out the Brita filter system.  Advice from users is welcomed.