Can run both A/C compressors on my gen set but not on shore power

Now you have thinking. I can run both A/C on my gen. All day long, but as soon as I plug into shore I lose one. So, I would assume the generator is charging the battery instead of the inverter? Keeping my current below 30. When I plug into shore I am now relying on that inverter to do the charging. Now just a thought, if you have a bad cell in a battery it will have a hard time holding voltage thus requiring the charger to be on all the time with just a slight draw. Hmm.maybe I should test my batteries load capabilities. If I test the voltage and its low then we'll know where the issue lies.

farmer dan said:

Now you have thinking. I can run both A/C on my gen. All day long, but as soon as I plug into shore I lose one. So, I would assume the generator is charging the battery instead of the inverter?..

Click to expand...

I'm not sure if your gen set has an alternator that can do any charging - you would have to verify that you do or don't.  If you do, I think the gen alternator would be started from the chassis batteries and would charge the chassis batteries.

You need to look at your 110V wiring diagram, trace out your air conditioner circuit #1 and circuit #2 and start probing with a meter.

Chances are good that your generator is able to produce enough amperage to keep both air cond's running, but if you only have 30 amp shore power, it may not. That set up is pretty common on RV's with 30 amp shore power and 5+kw generators. That's the way ours is, and if I'm plugged in somewhere that has good clean power, don't use extension cords, and let one A/C get running good before firing up the second, it will power them both, but I have to use finesse.

Here is my view...  In that vintage Winnebago with 30 amp service, the 5KW generator will easily run 2 A/C's at any time.

  When on shore power only one can run at a time. You have the option of running either the front or rear by using the selector switch...somewhere in your coach. see pix below.

  There is another way to get around that problem, but that's another complicated story.

Ok, I have seen that switch. And used it to run the rear independently. This being new to us I wasn't sure if this was a defective part or not. The dealer we bought it from does trailers only so this is beyond them as well.  The manuals I have weren't clear that it wouldn't run both on shore power so I assumed there was an issue. And we all know what assuming does.  So thanks for the responses. Good to know its not a defective part. God knows I have plenty of them already.  We'll soon get all the kinks out.  Then Scottie will be ready to trade for another.. Thanks again.

Your genset is wired with two circuit breakers, one is 30 amp and goes to the distribution panel, the other is 20 amp and is wired directly to the rear AC.  When running the genset, the front AC works off the distribution panel and the rear off the direct wired 20 amp circuit.  When running on shore power, the distribution center only provides 30 amp and your AC units can draw up to 14 amps each therefore the switch to prevent overloading the circuit. 

Another "trick" you can use is to close the vents in the front part of your unit and run the front unit which should provide cool air into the bedroom at night using just the shore power since the unit has ducted ceiling vents.  Check to make sure there is an open path as a couple of years they actually blocked the vented route in the bathroom thinking the cool air would "backflow" into the bedroom AC unit and cause damage.  They finally figured out it would not. 

If anyone is in the Pomona CA area, come visit us at RVIA Show.
Dave Solberg
RV Handyman Seminars

Another thought is to wire in an energy management system that would shed compressor #2, hot water heater, fridge, etc., as required.  Our coach is very happy on 30 amp shore power and we can run both AC compressors.

While you are at it, change out to 50 amp shore power. Winnebago provides two wiring diagrams and a nice physical hookup layout - one for 30 amp and one for 50 amp, so you wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel.  It would take a bit of work, but you would be significantly better off with 50 amp power.

dsolberg said:

Another "trick" you can use is to close the vents in the front part of your unit and run the front unit which should provide cool air into the bedroom at night using just the shore power since the unit has ducted ceiling vents.  Check to make sure there is an open path as a couple of years they actually blocked the vented route in the bathroom thinking the cool air would "backflow" into the bedroom AC unit and cause damage.  They finally figured out it would not. 

Click to expand...

If his unit is the same as mine (it is the same year and model) - that is not the case. If it did, I would be disappointed because while trying to cool the front were I am most of the time on a very hot day, losing air to the rear duct openings (even tho closed) would deter from the amount of air to the front. The whole duct system seems inefficient as it is.

Actually, I have never had a problem w/only one unit running at a time. But then I am a solo RVer. At night I turn the switch to the bedroom unit. The thermostat there only controls the rear A/C - and has no control over the furnace. The A/C will turn off when the temp is reached so as it cools outside that A/C will not run. I find that I can live with a temp of 79 degrees OK so that is the temp I keep the rear set to.

A nice feature of this year/model is that there is a sliding door isolating the living room and another isolating the bedroom. During the day I keep the door at the front of the hallway closed - so the front air is only cooling the living room/dining area. When I go to bed I "could" close that door to isolate the bedroom from the living room but the bedroom is so small that area really cools fast and stays that way.

On a really hot day -- over 100 degrees, I will close the 15' slide making the living area much smaller. Another nice feature of this model is that the slide is not only 15 long', but also almost 3' deep.

"Another thought is to wire in an energy management system that would shed compressor #2, hot water heater, fridge, etc., as required.  Our coach is very happy on 30 amp shore power and we can run both AC compressors."



Winnebago has a system like this called "Powerline" which is actually an Intellitec EMS and you are right, it's an excellent addition!

dsolberg said:

..Winnebago has a system like this called "Powerline" which is actually an Intellitec EMS and you are right, it's an excellent addition!

Click to expand...

That's what we have.

John Canfield said:

Another thought is to wire in an energy management system that would shed compressor #2, hot water heater, fridge, etc., as required.  Our coach is very happy on 30 amp shore power and we can run both AC compressors.

While you are at it, change out to 50 amp shore power. Winnebago provides two wiring diagrams and a nice physical hookup layout - one for 30 amp and one for 50 amp, so you wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel.  It would take a bit of work, but you would be significantly better off with 50 amp power.

Click to expand...

John, have looked at schematics ...question is it as simple as installing a 50 amp cord and selecting 50 amp on the proline display panel?
Me and coach are generally happy with 30 amp but in cold climes would like to augment heat with two electric burners without shutting everything else off.
Thanks
Bob

We had a 2002 Sunrise with 30 amp service and were able to run two electric heaters with no concern for overloading. 

geodrake said:

We had a 2002 Sunrise with 30 amp service and were able to run two electric heaters with no concern for overloading. 

Click to expand...

George, I can do that but turn on microwave...byby power
bob

bobsharon said:

John, have looked at schematics ...question is it as simple as installing a 50 amp cord and selecting 50 amp on the proline display panel?

Click to expand...

Bob - sorry but I have no idea off-hand.

Bob Buchanan said:

while trying to cool the front were I am most of the time on a very hot day, losing air to the rear duct openings (even tho closed) would deter from the amount of air to the front. The whole duct system seems inefficient as it is.

Click to expand...

I experienced this too in our '94 Class A that had the same A/C setup you are describing for the Winnie's.  I think the ducting was put in so another "option" could be added to the list when new, and it wasn't designed all that well.  I found that when only running 1 roof A/C, the best airflow to the rear (or vice versa, depending on which unit was running) was achieved just by setting up a small fan to blow the cooled air one direction or the other.  We had an L-shaped kitchen counter, so while running the front A/C I would set the table fan on the counter blowing to the rear bedroom.  When running the rear A/C, I would turn the fan 180 degrees to blow forwards.  I usually left all the vents open, except while traveling when we could close off the rear bedroom completely.  A simple system that worked pretty well.

bobsharon said:

John, have looked at schematics ...question is it as simple as installing a 50 amp cord and selecting 50 amp on the proline display panel?
Me and coach are generally happy with 30 amp but in cold climes would like to augment heat with two electric burners without shutting everything else off.
Thanks
Bob

Click to expand...

Bob, I changed mine from 30 to 50 and wiring and a new breaker was all I had to have. New power cord and larger wire from x-fer switch to breaker panel.
That said, 50 amp was an option on my coach from the factory. only cost about $200 and most of that was power cord.

Jerry

Wizard46 said:

Bob, I changed mine from 30 to 50 and wiring and a new breaker was all I had to have. New power cord and larger wire from x-fer switch to breaker panel.
That said, 50 amp was an option on my coach from the factory. only cost about $200 and most of that was power cord.

Jerry

Click to expand...

Jerry,
Thanks. Looks like the hard part would be the wiring from x-fer switch to breaker panel. The new breaker...was that a dual 50 amp in the distribution panel to replace the single 30 amp main? Did you toggle the Proline control to 50 amp after as well?
thanks
Bob

First, your panel must be capable of splitting breakers into two separate circuits,

Mine had a 30/30 breaker with a single 20 on each side for ac's, had to replace with a 20/50/50/20 breaker that I got from Lichtsin. Already had a power line EMS that was rated to 50 amps. Had to rewire most breakers, and some EMS wirng then the EMS worked as designed. I downloaded wiring diagrams from Winney and just followed them. I've worked in electrical field all my life so not a big problem for me. First thing would be to get your drawings if possible.

I did a write up for someone else, will try to locate it and post location.