A/C Intellitec controls Fleetwood Southwind

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alcohol890

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I have a 1997 Fleetwood Southwind Class A Motorhome. On my A/C system, I have dual A/C's. When I hook-up to 30 amps electrical power, my rear A/C sheds all the time. When I am running on my generator, I do not have that problem. Both systems are running the same equipment inside the camper. Any help?
 
The Intellitec system on your coach uses a transfer switch to power your rear AC from the second output on the generator, the primary output powers the rest of the coach including the Front A/C. If you look at your generator I bet it will have 2 breakers, one 30amp and one 20amp.

The transfer switch senses the power from the generators second output and transfers the power for the back AC to that output. At this point the back AC is not being feed by the circuit that goes the the Intellitec Controls that shed power.

ken
 
Ken, I think you will find that it's the front air conditioner that gets switched to the 20amp generator feed, NOT the rear air.  At least that's true for my '97 Bounder.
 
Just Lou said:
I think you will find that it's the front air conditioner that gets switched to the 20amp generator feed, NOT the rear air.  At least that's true for my '97 Bounder.

Lou,

On my '93 Itasca Suncruiser the rear air conditioner is fed from the dedicated 20-amp genset circuit. The 30-amp genset circuit feeds all other circuits in the motor home.

R
 
Sometimes Lou, but on my bosses Southwind it is the rear AC. I know this because I had to trace all the wiring to work out how to convert it to 50Amp, but keep the shedding capabilities if he was in a 30 amp site.

ken
 
Now I'm wondering if mine was just an accidental wiring error at the switch or if it was an intentional Bounder implementation.

Note...
My Bounder is wired to conform to this diagram on page 9 of the Intellitec ECC manual.  It operates in the manner described at the top of the page.

Since the shedding is prioritized by the controller, via the low voltage wiring, there should be no difference in the shedding sequence in either case.  The write-up does make the point that shedding of the FRONT unit will continue, if the 30amp feed remains overloaded after the REAR unit is shed.  This is an attempt to protect the generator. 
 
Lou, Actually it makes more sense to put the Front AC on the second Gen feed, since for most the Front AC is really Primary (ie used most). Being on the dedicated Gen feed it would not be subject to shedding. I have the manual which I downloaded when working on the bosses MH.

ken
 
Actually it makes more sense to put the Front AC on the second Gen feed, since for most the Front AC is really Primary (ie used most). Being on the dedicated Gen feed it would not be subject to shedding.

Actually it does remain subject to shedding, but is much less likely to be shed since it no-longer contributes to the current flowing through the sensor.  However, the controller doesn't know that.  If the load on the 30amp leg remains above 30amps after shedding the rear a/c, the a/c on the 20amp leg will be shed to protect the generator.

For those rigs wired with the 20amp dedicated feed to the REAR a/c, the FRONT unit would be shed first in all scenarios.  Not what Intellitec engineering intended, so I have to wonder why any coach manufacturer would deem it wise to do so.
 
97 southwind here.....so if I'm on 30a shore both ac are shed all the time....but on generator both blow cold....help...
 
30 amp shore simply can't run 2 20 amp circuits and the converter reliably. Choose one A/C at a time. My '93 Bounder has one 13500btu in front, I'm headed for the southwest. My plan is a second 13500 in the bedroom, with a dedicated, 20 amp shorepower hookup. When it's hot enough to need it, I'll pay for 50 amp service. Dry camping? Wouldn't want to listen to a genny all day or night anyway so there wouldn't be a lot of air conditioning going on.

Bill
 
The load shedding algorithm is tailored to each RV model, plus there were two different systems in use in 1997, so I'm not sure what order yours get shed in. Do you have a display that lists several items with indicators for each, e.g. water heater, fridge, front & rear a/c, etc?

The water heater will suck about 12 amps when its thermostat kicks in and the fridge in electric mode uses several amps too (depends on fridge model). And if your batteries are discharged or in poor condition, the converter/charger will suck more amps trying to charge them. Adding that and other smaller loads up, there may not be enough amps left to power even one a/c, which takes about 22-25 amps to get started and 11-12 amps to keep on running.  Two a/c are almost out of the question on 30A.  Try putting your water heater and fridge in LP gas (propane) mode and see if you can get one of the a/c's running.

Other things you probably can't run at the same time as the a/c would include an electric fry pan (10 amps or 1200 watts), a toaster oven, hair dryer, and other high wattage devices.  You can count either amps or watts (30 amp supply = 3600 watts), but you have to live within that power budget. Watts = volts x amps, so on 120v shore power each amp of power consumption is 120 watts (120v x 1A).

Your generator probably produces somewhere around 5000-5500 watts and likely has a special circuit to supply power to the second a/c. That's why it can run both when shore power cannot.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
The load shedding algorithm is tailored to each RV model, plus there were two different systems in use in 1997, so I'm not sure what order yours get shed in. Do you have a display that lists several items with indicators for each, e.g. water heater, fridge, front & rear a/c, etc?

The water heater will suck about 12 amps when its thermostat kicks in and the fridge in electric mode uses several amps too (depends on fridge model). And if your batteries are discharged or in poor condition, the converter/charger will suck more amps trying to charge them. Adding that and other smaller loads up, there may not be enough amps left to power even one a/c, which takes about 22-25 amps to get started and 11-12 amps to keep on running.  Two a/c are almost out of the question on 30A.  Try putting your water heater and fridge in LP gas (propane) mode and see if you can get one of the a/c's running.

Other things you probably can't run at the same time as the a/c would include an electric fry pan (10 amps or 1200 watts), a toaster oven, hair dryer, and other high wattage devices.  You can count either amps or watts (30 amp supply = 3600 watts), but you have to live within that power budget. Watts = volts x amps, so on 120v shore power each amp of power consumption is 120 watts (120v x 1A).

Your generator probably produces somewhere around 5000-5500 watts and likely has a special circuit to supply power to the second a/c. That's why it can run both when shore power cannot.
Gary, your first paragraph is mixing functions and capabilities of the Intellitec EMS with those of the Intellitec ECC systems.  The ECC controller has a fixed shed order and can ONLY shed air conditioner compressors and fans.  The other 120ac loads on the RV are certainly counted in the total current draw, but were not controlled by the ECC

The Intellitec EMS system was/is a rather expensive OPTION and I would expect the OP to know if that is what he has.  The EMS did provide the flexibility to select the order in which circuit breakers were turned off (i.e. shedding devices), so each RV installation could be tailored, but it didn't have a lot of intelligence beyond that.

I don't think the two systems would ever be installed in the same RV, but I've been wrong before.
 
Electronic climate control in wall is all..no info about control of any other fucntuons. It just runs fans only and says shed on both front and rear. If I put it in test mode front or rear ac compressor run fine. With generator all run fine.

What's my issue ?
 
As if it's sensing load that does not exist.....all other coach ac appliances off ...still no go....

Can I somehow bypass this thing and use common sense to only run front or rear on 30a shore. Can't sleep w no ac...:-( on extended camping for work and need ac all summer
 
How to test the controller for proper load amp sensing function. ..unplugging amp sensor does nothing....
 
Sorry, I landed in the hospital about an hour after I posted here on Wednesday.  I'm on my third unit of blood infusion as I type this.  Some serious internal bleeding going on.  I'm scheduled for some upper and lower GI work in the am.

Yes you can select and run the air conditioners from that test switch on the controller.  Without looking at the drawings I couldn't tell you how much thermostat control you will have.
 
ouch! get better!  So, yes it will run with it in TEST mode as I have said but HOW to fix this thing so it's not a constant shed on both units. took apart the controller no burned or weird looking components on the board .....no idea why it's shedding both.
 
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