Winterizing: Air compressor and/or RV Antifreeze?

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mustangary

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Aug 11, 2012
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New to this RV thing... bought a new Jayco this July.  Reading in the manual last night about winterizing it, which points to 1) simply blowing out the lines through the city fill with an air compressor, and then pouring a bit of RV antifreeze in the drains, or, 2) pumping RV antifreeze into the system until it runs out all the faucets, etc.  Downside of the latter:  Seems the water filter needs to be taken out. 

Issue is:  Will be parking it here in cold country until early January, and then heading south for a couple of months.  So, need to only winterize it for a couple of months (late October through December,  and then I am out of here!).  Am thinking will do #1:  What think? 

It can get pretty cold here in December... maybe as low as 15-degrees (for short periods)... is the air purge (and drain the water heater) plus some RV antifreeze in the drains enough? 
 
15 degrees is really cold I am on the TX Gulf Coast so all i do is drain all the tanks put a 1/2 gal. RV antifreeze in the Black & gray tanks, the drain on the potable water tank is on the bottom of the tank so its good with out Antifreeze. Then set my furnace to come on at 40 degrees open all cabinet doors and I am good here.
That said with 15 degree weather I would drain all tanks add one gal. of RV antifreeze to each tank, make sure the antifreeze was in the black & gray drain lines, drain the water heater & leave the plug out, remove the water filter, blow out all water lines and add a cup or more of RV antifreeze to all drains, don't forget the toilet bowl  Maybe someone from up north can help
 
This is one of those topics that gets debated here anually about this time of year.  From past year's responses it seems that either method works and this seems to be supported by your owners manual.  Go with the method that works best for you.  Either way don't forget about all the non-faucet water fixtures (toilet water supply line, outside shower, icemaker etc.) that you might have and drain your water heater.  A cup of antifreeze in each drain is sufficient.  I don't really see the need for antifreeze in the black and gray tanks as Billy Bob suggests.  Any small amount of water left in a those that may freeze and expand has plenty of room to do so without damaging anything.
 
I disagree on the black and gray tanks.  I had a rig where i thought that any would in the tanks would be free to expand and not cause a problem.  What I forgot about was the pipe draining the tanks.  Next spring on of the drain pipes was leaking.  Apparently the residual water drained to the pipe and there was not enough room for the expansion.

Now I put RV antifreeze in both tanks a cheap protection in my opinion.

Carl
 
I blow all lines out and sink p-traps out with air. The only place I use anti-freeze is in the toilet. Everything else is completely blow out or drained out. I'm in central Idaho and see some seriously cold temperatures now down to -25*F and never had a issue with blowing out. But 2 times now when I used anti-freeze found it froze up in a thick slushy. I don't want to risk anything so if all the lines are blown dry and there is nothing in them they can freeze period. Not to mention no anti-freeze to foul the the tates of the water system so its a double plus. As for blowing out the sink traps a lot of people say it will let sewage smell in. That is not true if you properly wash out you tanks before storage use bleach solution and plenty of rinse water there is zero smell. Going into my 3 year of this methoad and will winterize sometime in October.
 
We get a half dozen or so sub-freezing nights at our north Florida home base, so need to do something for freeze protection when the coach is not in use.  We use the blow-out method rather than heating the RV or using anti-freeze, but with either method you have to pay particular attention to places that trap water, e.g. ice maker valve, clothes washer pump, tank drain lines and valves, water filters, etc. Any or all of those can freeze easily and break a fitting or rupture a valve. I've even had an ice maker solenoid valve damaged after blowing it out - there were a few drops of water caught in a cavity behind the seal, enough to push the seal on the valve face out of position (I was able to re-seat it ok once the leak was discovered).

If using the antifreeze method, you must assure that the antifreeze solution actually reaches all those same places. Just pumping it through the lines to the faucets is not sufficient.
 
This is a subject that each RVer should decide for themselves. I believe either system will work if done properly.

I am a rancher and truck company owner so I have compresors available. For our RV's over the years I have found it most convenient to just use RV Antifreeze rather than the work of using a compressor. I believe it take less time and I know that the job is done properly with using the antifreeze.

Depending on the RV each has, and after learning what process is needed, anyone should be able to determine the preferable method.
 
If using the blow out method (I do) one thing to be sure and not miss is the overflow line on the toilet.  It has a trap that will need attention.  I use automotive window washer fluid instead of the expensive RV stuff for all the drain traps. That was a helpful tip from the RV dealer where I bought my rig.
 
BillB3857 said:
If using the blow out method (I do) one thing to be sure and not miss is the overflow line on the toilet.  It has a trap that will need attention.  I use automotive window washer fluid instead of the expensive RV stuff for all the drain traps. That was a helpful tip from the RV dealer where I bought my rig.
Click to expand...

A "helpful tip" from someone who is either unaware of the environmental impact of where that WW fluid ends up come Spring, or doesn't care.  Not a good idea.
 
Automotive windshield washer.... Expensive RV anterfreeze.

I don't know about that,  This time of year there is at least one hardware (ACE) that usually offers a rebate on the pink stuff making it less expensive then the blue stuff .

Just so you know .

Of course.. I use the "S" stuff now days (Drive South) so I don't bother but the last couple of winters where I had to I used the dry method, Pink in drains and toilets where flushign it out come spring..... Not a problem.

Just remember a single blow won't do it.. You need to blow pause blow pause at least half a dozen times if not more,, I think I hit 10 one year.
 
We've used both winterizing methods, and both have worked equally well.  This is in central IL, where it's common to have several months of subzero temps depending on the year.  I was reluctant to try the compressed air method at first, thinking that some water would be "missed" ... but the trick (as mentioned) is to continue pressurizing the system and leaving faucets on for ALL the water to blow out.  Same as the antifreeze if you use that method, you pump enough pink stuff through to push ALL the water out.

denmarc said:
A "helpful tip" from someone who is either unaware of the environmental impact of where that WW fluid ends up come Spring, or doesn't care.  Not a good idea.
Click to expand...

I can't imagine that a few cups of windshield washer fluid flushed once per year is going to destroy the planet, or any RV dump septic systems.  No more than the thousands (millions?) of gallons used annually to clean car windows, anyway... all of that ends up on the ground too, prior to evaporating since it's mostly water and alcohol.

But I agree with John about the negligible price difference (especially talking about small amount for just the drain traps) between RV antifreeze and windshield washer fluid, if you hit the right sales.
 
Mopar1973Man said:
I blow all lines out and sink p-traps out with air. The only place I use anti-freeze is in the toilet. Everything else is completely blow out or drained out. I'm in central Idaho and see some seriously cold temperatures now down to -25*F and never had a issue with blowing out. But 2 times now when I used anti-freeze found it froze up in a thick slushy. I don't want to risk anything so if all the lines are blown dry and there is nothing in them they can freeze period. Not to mention no anti-freeze to foul the the tates of the water system so its a double plus. As for blowing out the sink traps a lot of people say it will let sewage smell in. That is not true if you properly wash out you tanks before storage use bleach solution and plenty of rinse water there is zero smell. Going into my 3 year of this methoad and will winterize sometime in October.
Click to expand...

I do the same as above and drain the hot water heater as well.
 
With all the good advice you have received here, may I add that I remove the Ice maker valve.  It froze on me the first year.  Be sure to follow the Ice maker manual on how to purge that line.  Be sure to set the compressor to no more than 20 pounds.
 
Actually I set mine to 40-50 PSI just like the water regular does and allow the water heater to fill with pressure the discharge the pressure through each valve one at a time. Starting from the low point drains working my way to the highest faucet.
 
scottydl said:
I can't imagine that a few cups of windshield washer fluid flushed once per year is going to destroy the planet, or any RV dump septic systems.  No more than the thousands (millions?) of gallons used annually to clean car windows, anyway... all of that ends up on the ground too, prior to evaporating since it's mostly water and alcohol.
Click to expand...

I understand what your saying.  And I never said that your usage of it was going to "destroy the planet" all by your lonesome.  But, does that make it ok?

Matter of opinion.
 
BillB3857 said:
I use automotive window washer fluid instead of the expensive RV stuff for all the drain traps. That was a helpful tip from the RV dealer where I bought my rig.
Click to expand...

Window washer fluid contains methanol and is toxic.  It is also more prone to damage seals, and is prone to loss of its antifreeze properties due to evaporation of the methanol.  I wouldn't use it.

 
The advantage of flushing the freshwater lines with pink antifreeze is that you don't need access to a compressor to do it.  If you put in a 3-way valve on the inlet side of your pump it becomes very straightforward and takes no special tools.

That means that you can be set up to do it in a campground if, say, your furnace fails.

Or, depending on your situation, it may mean that you don't have to get your RV out of storage to bring it someplace where there's an air compressor.  Or bring the air compressor out to it, or whatever.
 
I live in Cent PA and do both, blow the lines out and then add anti freeze. It isn't difficult, takes a few hours, and not expensive.

Not sure why winterizing  is a cost factor to anyone who owns an RV.  It cost me $15 a few yrs ago for the equip to add antifreeze and less than $10 a yr for the anti freeze.  That is a couple gal of gas!
 
schoolsout2 said:
With all the good advice you have received here, may I add that I remove the Ice maker valve.  It froze on me the first year.  Be sure to follow the Ice maker manual on how to purge that line.  Be sure to set the compressor to no more than 20 pounds.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion (And I have been there myself)

I favor blow the lines out, several times, with pauses between blows (just a few minutes of pause) to let water clinging to the sides of the pipes drip down to where it can be blown out.

You should already ahve an air compressor, (For tire use) this does require one with a tank however.  Set the outlet regulator to around 50 PSI.

Come spring if you put any liquid in the lines, you need to flush it out.
AIR, you do not have to f lush, normal sanitation will take care of it.

Air is free (compressed air close to it)

And it does not damage the environment.  ALL wet methods do.

Yse pink (or the more expensive liquid of your choice) in toilets and drains (Get Pink at ACE hardware for what 2.00/gallon after rebate).  You also do not worry about flushing those come spring.. I mean if a bit of pink remains in the toilet.. WHO CARES?

 
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