Is there a mod for Water Heater to make draining easier?

Does anyone have a suggestion on possibly removing the plastic drain plug and replacing it with something else to make draining easier and less messy?
Thanks

You can get a kit from Vintage Trailer Supply or look for equivalent parts at a home center and auto parts store.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Water_Heater_Drain_Valve_p/vts-627.htm

This setup leaves a little bit more water in the water heater, but I doubt if it's enough to pose a problem.  I'm using one of these here in Minnesota.

Neat but how do you flush the tank without removing the brass plug too? OK to drain but the tank should also be flushed at least once per year.

The PO of my MH made a special wrench from a socket and a 3" or 4" extension with a short tee handle welded at the opposite end.  It stores in the WH compartment and easily inserts or removes the nylon plug.

I can't remember where I got it, but I bought on line an Anode Rod that had a drain cock in the end of it so to drain the tank you opened the drain cock and the overflow vent. With a little research on the internet you should be ablt to find it.

I hope that anode rod is being used only on a Suburban tank!!! Atwoods are not supposed to have them as they will cause damage to the tank by corrosion!! (This information is included in the Atwood documentation.)

That said, at least one a year you should be removing that anode/valve and completely flush the tank. It will not flush properly with that little valve in place. There is a small plastic wand with a water shut-off valve available that fits on the end of a garden hose and using it does a good job flushing the tank. Walmart sells them, as do other RV equipment suppliers.

Camco makes a special anode rod for Atwood heaters (don't use the ones for Suburban heaters) that includes a drain. Atwood recommends against using any anode rod, though.
http://www.rvplus.com/camco-mfg-4-1-2-anode-rod-w-drain-valve-for-11533.html?utm_source=googlepla&utm_medium=cse&utm_content=AR-140035&utm_campaign=googlepla&gclid=CMbMsIT56bICFUKd4AodhTYAsA

Getting the plastic plug out is easy enough with a socket wrench, but the gush of water is a minor nuisance. However, that same gusher helps to clean out the accumulated salts from heating hard water, so its a plus as well. The smaller opening in a brass drain cock does not work anywhere near as well. Nor can you get a hose in to rinse and flush if you have a large accumulation.

I once saw a homemade drain that looked halfway reasonable. It basically consisted of a CPVC  threaded nipple that screwed into the drain, coupled to a standard 3/4" valve. A  short (8"?) length of hose was connected to the valve outlet and bent back out of the way so the outer door could be closed.  The hose directed the drain water out of the way.  I considered it for my own rig, but I didn't have quite enough depth to fit the valve in. I could have used an elbow between nipple and valve to fit it in, but then the whole thing began looking real cumbersome. Plus it would be near impossible to remove without cutting it apart.  I decided that for something I do once a year, it wasn't really worth the effort or drawbacks.

Camco makes a special anode rod for Atwood heaters. Supposedly will not harm them, but Atwood still recommends against them.  The Atwood anode has a drain valve built in.

http://www.rvplus.com/camco-mfg-4-1-2-anode-rod-w-drain-valve-for-11533.html?utm_source=googlepla&utm_medium=cse&utm_content=AR-140035&utm_campaign=googlepla&gclid=CPmMsOf86bICFU6d4AoduToA3w

The drain cock someone linked to above is the kind I tried 2nd, I did not like it at all, it lasted one use and broke.. The one I got was very poorly built.



There are two kinds (Wel lmore than 2) of plastic fittings, On Attwood heaters you should only use plastic in that hole (Though I do use well taped brass myself)

Make sure you get the one rated for hooking directly to hot water heaters,, You need a 1/2 inch threaded adapter, and either elbows or straight pipe or a combination and a 1/2 inch BALL type valve (Quarter turn valve) you may need a 2nd threaded adapter to fit the valve (or not depending on the valve) and a 1/2 inch plug, your choice of metal or plastic for the valve outlet,, and a 1/2 inch nipple 4-6 inches.

High temp plastic to tank, and to valve tank siide  Position valve so you can operate it, I had to trim the handle some on mine.

Plug valve outlet (Safety plug not really needed but I feel better with it.

Use a pair of zip-ties to attach the nipple to somethign inside the compartment.

To drain, Remove plug, replace with pipe nipple, open valve.

When I built mine I used the wrong kind of plastic and as a result had the devil's time cleaning it out (A 1/2 inch pipe tap would have made it easier) I replaced it with a well taped brass drain cock,, It lasted one use, so I got a better one at Camping World.. So far it's still lasting but it's only been one summer (Installed last spring).  I much preferred the plastic version.

Camping world link is what I have installed now,, Well taped with multiple layers of Teflon before insertion.

I replaced my plastic plug with a ball valve.  When I get home from a trip I connect to the city water and open the ball valve on my hot water tank.  I let it flush until the water is cold then close the ball valve.  leaving warm water in the tank is the problem as bacteria will grow very quickly. I leave the tank full ready for the next trip.  When I am filling my fresh water tank for the next trip I flush the hot water again.  With the ball valve it only takes a couple minutes to flush the tank. The only time I drain the hot water tank is for winter storage.