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Author Topic: RVing out of the box  (Read 11957 times)

infinitefoamies

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RVing out of the box
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:09:21 PM »
If someone could help me out, I am trying to figure how to wire the AC grounding in my truck, I can't simply attach to the frame because in the event that current goes through those grounds, my Negative-earth DC system would be FUBAR (correct me if I'm wrong). If I wire all the AC grounds together, when I am on shore power I would have no issue. But what I am not sure of, is how inverters handle ground. Will it be sufficient to have the grounds wired together and the inverter can handle it?

I will more than likely be towing my box trailer when I am camping, which has solar panels on the roof to keep the trailers house battery charger. I intend to wire in some single pole connectors to attach my trailers DC system to my trucks so the trailers battery will charge when the trucks alternator is giving out juice, and the trucks batteries will be charged from the solar panels are giving out juice. I am pretty sure this won't be an issue but I just want to get a second opinion, when the truck is not running, will the solar panels back feed into the alternator and damage it? and vise versa?

I am also installing an old power converter that came out of my dads old camper. It's a power dynamics pd-710(off the top of my head), When on shore power, Would this back feed into the solar panels and damage them? don't have to worry about vise versa hear because I will have the input side controlled with a breaker.

I have three 1000 cranking amp truck batteries, how can I determine an amp/hr rating? it is not marked on the batteries.

Can you link multiple non-GFI outlets to a GFI outlet? or only one non-GFI?

I am putting this part on hold for now because of funds and the monumental list of projects I have, but because I can't figure out how to do this: I want to have a 30a and a 20a shore power service(use one at a time). I have one single pole breaker for each. How do I control the common? Can I use a switching relay? that would be activated when power is hooked up.



Thanks for the help.
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2012, 08:15:19 AM »
The ground and neutral for your 120vac power always goes to the external power cord, which should always be a 3 (or 4) wire hook-up (hot, neutral and ground). Do not bond neutral and ground in the camper either - the bonding takes place in the external source.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 07:47:12 AM by Gary RV Roamer »
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Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2012, 09:35:41 AM »
If someone could help me out, I am trying to figure how to wire the AC grounding in my truck, I can't simply attach to the frame because in the event that current goes through those grounds, my Negative-earth DC system would be FUBAR (correct me if I'm wrong).

The green or bare grounding conductors should be connected to the frame.  The white (neutral) conductors should not.

Quote
If I wire all the AC grounds together, when I am on shore power I would have no issue. But what I am not sure of, is how inverters handle ground. Will it be sufficient to have the grounds wired together and the inverter can handle it?

It varies.  Most inverters allow neutral to float.  A few that incorporate transfer switches bond neutral to ground when the inverter is the power source.

Quote
I will more than likely be towing my box trailer when I am camping, which has solar panels on the roof to keep the trailers house battery charger. I intend to wire in some single pole connectors to attach my trailers DC system to my trucks so the trailers battery will charge when the trucks alternator is giving out juice, and the trucks batteries will be charged from the solar panels are giving out juice. I am pretty sure this won't be an issue but I just want to get a second opinion, when the truck is not running, will the solar panels back feed into the alternator and damage it? and vise versa?

Be sure to bring out two wires of equal size -- one positive, one negative -- rather than relying on the frame ground for negative.  The ground connection across the hitch, and at various other points, is unreliable and you won't get the charging performance you want.

You won't damage the truck alternator with the solar panels as long as you have some sort of charge controller that limits the voltage to something reasonable, which you need anyway or you'll damage the batteries.

Quote
I am also installing an old power converter that came out of my dads old camper. It's a power dynamics pd-710(off the top of my head), When on shore power, Would this back feed into the solar panels and damage them? don't have to worry about vise versa hear because I will have the input side controlled with a breaker.

No, it won't damage them.

Quote
I have three 1000 cranking amp truck batteries, how can I determine an amp/hr rating? it is not marked on the batteries.

They aren't intended for deep cycling which is why they don't have an amp-hour rating.  Deep cycling will shorten their useful life.  Typical truck batteries with a 1000 amp CA or MCA rating have a 700 amp CCA rating and will hold roughly 75 amp-hours, when new.

Quote
Can you link multiple non-GFI outlets to a GFI outlet? or only one non-GFI?

There's no absolute upper limit.  Some building codes specify a max of three, because more than that makes nuisance trips more of a nuisance and harder to find.

Quote
I am putting this part on hold for now because of funds and the monumental list of projects I have, but because I can't figure out how to do this: I want to have a 30a and a 20a shore power service(use one at a time). I have one single pole breaker for each. How do I control the common? Can I use a switching relay? that would be activated when power is hooked up.

Most people do this by wiring for 30a service (only) and using a 30a-to-20a adapter, which you can get for less than $10 anywhere.  If you wire for both you need a transfer switch.  Standard practice is to leave neutral connected to both sources all the time rather than switching it, and most codes specify that, though there are reasons to switch the neutral as well.

2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2012, 03:44:13 PM »
"The green or bare grounding conductors should be connected to the frame.  The white (neutral) conductors should not."
In this case, couldnt any voltage traveling over the ground to my frame, then travel into the negative side of all the dc power devices and fry them? (and the batteries)
"It varies.  Most inverters allow neutral to float.  A few that incorporate transfer switches bond neutral to ground when the inverter is the power source."
so what does this mean for me if the ground is needed by a device?
  "Standard practice is to leave neutral connected to both sources all the time rather than switching it"
then someone could get zapped from the plug that is not in use?
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Ned

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2012, 04:39:20 PM »
The AC ground should not carry any current in a properly wired installation.  It also should not be grounded to the frame of the RV or tied to the neutral line but is carried through the power cord to the load center that sources the shore power.  It's at that point that the neutral and ground are bonded and tied to an earth ground.
-- Ned -- Fulltimer 1997-2013
1997 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE
2007 GMC Canyon

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2012, 05:09:58 PM »
The green or bare grounding conductors should be connected to the frame.  The white (neutral) conductors should not.
The AC ground should not carry any current in a properly wired installation.  It also should not be grounded to the frame of the RV or tied to the neutral line but is carried through the power cord to the load center that sources the shore power.  It's at that point that the neutral and ground are bonded and tied to an earth ground.
so then your original statement is incorrect for this particular situation? also isnt the ground incase there is a wiring issue?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Ned

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2012, 05:36:26 PM »
What original statement?  I've only posted the one message and that reiterates what Gary said about the neutral and ground.
-- Ned -- Fulltimer 1997-2013
1997 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE
2007 GMC Canyon

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2012, 10:28:16 PM »
oops, didnt notice the poster name, sorry. ok so, do i attatch the ac ground to the frame or not? I am worried that if something is not wired properlly it could destroy my dc system. if ground will never see current then why have it?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2012, 10:43:22 PM »
Can someone reccomend a battery isolator or combiner? or should i not bother? I will often have the trailer attached with solar panels but there are some times when i may not...
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Ned

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2012, 06:59:21 AM »
The AC ground has nothing to do with your DC system and should be wired as Gary and I have described.
-- Ned -- Fulltimer 1997-2013
1997 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE
2007 GMC Canyon

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2012, 07:20:27 AM »
because it is a truck not designed to have an ac system, the negative of the battery is connected to the frame.
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2012, 07:57:04 AM »
I'll amend my original statement to note that it is perfectly ok to connect the RV/truck chassis to the 120vac ground (green or bare wire). This provides additional safety in case the 120v hot ever accidentally touches the vehicle frame. Most all household appliances and portable tools that have metal casings also do this. There is no voltage in the ground except when some other wiring fault occurs and it will not harm your DC system if it does as long as the ground is connected to the external power ground wire.
Gary
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Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #12 on: November 28, 2012, 03:29:26 PM »
I'll amend my original statement to note that it is perfectly ok to connect the RV/truck chassis to the 120vac ground (green or bare wire). This provides additional safety in case the 120v hot ever accidentally touches the vehicle frame. Most all household appliances and portable tools that have metal casings also do this. There is no voltage in the ground except when some other wiring fault occurs and it will not harm your DC system if it does as long as the ground is connected to the external power ground wire.

Gary is correct.  Even if the grounding conductor for the 120vac distribution system isn't connected to the RV frame deliberately, chances are that it will be connected most of the time through some indirect route.  Having a solid connection reduces the potential for electric shocks and RF noise from capacitive coupling across weak or corroded points of contact.

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1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #13 on: November 28, 2012, 03:36:32 PM »
In this case, couldnt any voltage traveling over the ground to my frame, then travel into the negative side of all the dc power devices and fry them? (and the batteries)so what does this mean for me if the ground is needed by a device?

Your question doesn't make any sense to me.  What do you mean by "voltage traveling over the ground to my frame?"  Voltage between what two things? 

Quote
then someone could get zapped from the plug that is not in use?

It's a sticky wicket because with RVs the bonding point is physically disconnected.  Some transfer switches bond neutral to ground when on generator/inverter but not when on shore power, which is one way to solve it, although if you have a generator plug that's accessible but not in use I suppose someone could "get zapped" from whatever voltage drop there is in the neutral between the bonding point and the transfer switch, no more than a few volts if the campground pedestal is wired properly.  Where this becomes a problem is if the polarity on the campground pedestal's 30a outlet is backwards.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #14 on: November 28, 2012, 03:42:53 PM »
The AC ground should not carry any current in a properly wired installation.

Well, not much, anyway.  There's always some leakage current, and you can measure it.  Most electronics and appliances are certified to UL 1278 which allows up to 5 mA per device.  Surge protection devices are particularly prone to producing leakage current, whether stand-alone "surge strips" or the devices built into electronics. 

Quote
It also should not be grounded to the frame of the RV

Not with you there.  Ground is ground and the safest installation connects all accessible conductive objects together to preclude the possibility of unsafe voltage between them.  The aluminum frame of my Airstream is deliberately connected to the 120v/240v ground.

Quote
... or tied to the neutral line but is carried through the power cord to the load center that sources the shore power.  It's at that point that the neutral and ground are bonded and tied to an earth ground.

I think we can agree on that part.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #15 on: November 28, 2012, 03:46:11 PM »
if ground will never see current then why have it?

It will see some routinely.  Draining that away to reduce the shock hazard is part of its purpose.

And it will see a good deal of current when someone, say, drops the electric beater, while it's still running, into the sink full of sudsy water, as the the crowning failure of an earnest but misguided attempt at mashed potatoes.
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1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #16 on: November 29, 2012, 08:14:38 PM »
just bought the inverter from harbor freight. 2000/4000 watt cen-tech. retail for $199, had a 20% off coupon, payed $138 including tax. Don't know how that math worked out but im not complaining.

Debating mounting in the center console, or under the rear seat(remove carpet and make sure its well ventilated obviously). It has a ground on the input side, I've never seen a dc device with a ground, would this also attach to the frame with the ac ground and the dc negative?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #17 on: November 30, 2012, 08:13:03 AM »
An Inverter is both an ac and a dc device and it does require a chassis ground in addition to the battery positive and negative terminals (input power to the inverter).

Be aware that you can't use anywhere near that much inverter power (wattage) unless you add lots of batteries. Even 1000 watts of power draw requires a steady 90+ amps from the batteries.
Gary
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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #18 on: November 30, 2012, 12:28:50 PM »
I don't think I'd put a 4000 watt, $138 inverter anywhere near anything I care about. 
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #19 on: November 30, 2012, 06:34:33 PM »
Be aware that you can't use anywhere near that much inverter power (wattage) unless you add lots of batteries. Even 1000 watts of power draw requires a steady 90+ amps from the batteries.
The truck currently has two 1000CCA batteries, I will be adding a third and when towing the trailer i will have a deep cycle marine + solar panels. as for the three 1000CCA batteries, would that handle the inverter for a bit while the truck is not running or for the length of the trip with the engine running? If i am using a device that uises says 400w, would the inverter consume less power?
I don't think I'd put a 4000 watt, $138 inverter anywhere near anything I care about.
its a 2000w and retailed for $200
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #20 on: November 30, 2012, 07:31:55 PM »
1000 CCA doesn't translate at all in amp-hours, which is what you need to know to estimate inverter run time.  A battery can have a high CCA and still not produce many amp-hours for long term use.  Amp-hours are measured over a 20 hour time period, while CCA is calculated as a max amp rate for 30 seconds at zero degrees.   I'll hazard a wild guess and say somewhere between 70 and 90 AH, but that's sheer guesswork.

The inverter uses DC power in proportion to the 120vac power demand. Basically,  Watts-in x Efficiency = Watts-out.  Watts are volts x amps and Efficiency for this sort of inverter is probably in the 80-90% range. To produce 400 watts @ 120v takes about 37 amps @ 12v and 90% efficiency.

Quote
I don't think I'd put a 4000 watt, $138 inverter anywhere near anything I care about.
A plain inverter (no charger and no internal transfer switch) is not an expensive or complex device, and the price reflects that. Nothing at all to fear with a big inverter in that price range, as long as Modified Sine output is OK.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 08:00:40 PM by Gary RV Roamer »
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infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #21 on: November 30, 2012, 07:57:35 PM »
thanks, so then if im using devices that arent energy hogging i should be good. then if i need the power i have for a bit.

What do you guys think of usb gps recievers?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #22 on: November 30, 2012, 09:43:38 PM »
I have been sufficiently happy with the GPS in my Android phone that I haven't looked seriously at any alternatives.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #23 on: November 30, 2012, 10:23:47 PM »
I have a galaxy sII and the GPS is outstanding when it works...but most of the time it just decides to not pick up single, it will work or it wont, nothing in between...so I wan't a more reliable source but don't want to spend for the garmin or tomtom devices, I figure a usb one I could also use on my sailboat...
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #24 on: December 01, 2012, 08:03:13 AM »
What do you mean by a "usb gps"?  One of the satellite sensors that can plug into a USB port?  Those just give you a raw signal - you still have to have mapping and navigation software to go with it.

You can get an excellent TomTom or Garmin for around $100 or sometimes less, sometimes including lifetime map updates. And used ones are readily available for even less money, e.g. on ebay.
« Last Edit: December 01, 2012, 08:05:05 AM by Gary RV Roamer »
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infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #25 on: December 01, 2012, 08:17:42 AM »
$40 gets you the reciever and software, I planned on building an ultra small computer for my truck for music while driving and movies while camping, so it would be that much more dificult...
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2012, 08:47:08 PM »
Does anyone out there cook food wrapped in aluminum foil against the motor while on the road?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #27 on: December 06, 2012, 09:15:21 PM »
I've heard of it, but never knew anyone who actually did/does it. Afterall, we have stoves and microwaves to handle the cooking chores. BBQs and campfires too.
Gary
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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #28 on: December 06, 2012, 09:49:28 PM »
I have -- rarely -- done this as a traveling technique, when I am traveling without an RV.  It's better understood as a way to warm up food than as a way to cook food, and for it to work you have to lay things out pretty carefully ahead of time, wrapping things in foil and so on.  It would help to install a basket or something, permanently, in a strategic place in the engine compartment, but I've never done that.

The cooking facilities in an RV are a better bet.  Most people don't really cook while under way -- the potential for disaster in the event of a collision or evasive maneuver is too great -- but you can cook while stopped, and many people will leave something in the oven while traveling.

Alternatively, on a long road trip, I usually bring cold food to eat on the road, and combine that with stops at places that have at least passable hot food.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #29 on: December 06, 2012, 11:28:05 PM »
Does anyone out there cook food wrapped in aluminum foil against the motor while on the road?

Access to the engine compartment is difficult as we have to lift the bed and another cover to gain access.

We used to heat "C rations" on the generators for the Radar and guns when I was in the Army.  Worked great on a cold night to have hot food and coffee/tea etc.  We were even known to have a few hot toddy's! :)   
Jim
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infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #30 on: December 12, 2012, 10:25:09 PM »
just picked up an 86' sunline slide in camper for free off craigslist. needs some work but definately worth free. anyone know much about these? my rear fenders are wider then the width of the jacks which was a real PITA to load so i will have to fabircate something, also have to fabricate a new hitch reciever so i can still tow. any experience with doing this?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #31 on: December 12, 2012, 10:25:57 PM »
i was also wondering if i have to move my plate from my truck to the back of the slide in?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Lou Schneider

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #32 on: December 13, 2012, 12:24:42 AM »
If the camper is blocking the visibility of your rear plate, yes.  If not, it can stay where it is on the truck.

A couple of states, WA I know is one, issue a separate license plate for the camper.  This seems a little strange to me, since the camper isn't it's own vehicle, it's just cargo being carried by the truck.  But I guess the proceeds go towards the state parks or something.

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #33 on: December 13, 2012, 10:19:33 AM »
i think it is a c951? imt rying to find info such as owner manuals and such to see routing of wiring and plumbing etc...anyone know where i can find some?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #34 on: December 13, 2012, 02:26:56 PM »
just picked up an 86' sunline slide in camper for free off craigslist. needs some work but definately worth free.

Some of my most expensive purchases have been free.  Caveat emptor.

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anyone know much about these?

I don't, but these people do:

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f70/

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my rear fenders are wider then the width of the jacks which was a real PITA to load so i will have to fabircate something,

This is a common situation for dual rear wheel trucks.  You need dually brackets.  They are expensive and specific to jacks from a particular manufacturer:

http://www.adventurerv.net/lance-atwood-swingout-dually-brackets-p-68.html

You could, as you point out, make something, if you're good at that.

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also have to fabricate a new hitch reciever so i can still tow. any experience with doing this?

There are commercially available ones but they are expensive:

http://www.torklift.com/t.php?w_page=superhitch

The homemade ones I've seen are not especially stable.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

Jammer

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #35 on: December 13, 2012, 02:35:06 PM »
If the camper is blocking the visibility of your rear plate, yes.  If not, it can stay where it is on the truck.

A couple of states, WA I know is one, issue a separate license plate for the camper.  This seems a little strange to me, since the camper isn't it's own vehicle, it's just cargo being carried by the truck.  But I guess the proceeds go towards the state parks or something.

Lou is correct.  There are some people who get away with putting a copy of their license plate on the camper, either a photocopy or just hand-written letters and numbers, or sign letters from the home center, or something printed out from a computer.  It's risking a ticket but saves the hassle of moving the tag.  Moving the tag is a hassle because sooner or later you'll forget and then you'll get a ticket anyway.

I have heard that there are a handful of states where you can ask for a duplicate plate and use that.
2004 Suburban 2500 4wd 8.1 / 2010 Airstream Classic 30' /
1997 K2500 regular cab long bed pickup / 1971 Cayo C-11

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #36 on: December 13, 2012, 07:38:52 PM »
Some of my most expensive purchases have been free.  Caveat emptor.
if its free its for me! i dont hvae much of a budget so if its not worthwhile ill get rid of it
You could, as you point out, make something, if you're good at that.

There are commercially available ones but they are expensive:

http://www.torklift.com/t.php?w_page=superhitch

The homemade ones I've seen are not especially stable.
I only plan on towing a 12' box trailer with model airplanes at the same time as the slide in so it should be too much weight...
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

driftless shifter

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #37 on: December 14, 2012, 07:54:17 PM »
does the camper block the receiver, or is the receiver to far underneath for clearance of the trailer tongue? they do make extensions to bring the ball out beyond overhanging equipment. i've seen landscapers using them to haul their trailer behind a one ton, when they have an overhanging implement in the bed.
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #38 on: December 15, 2012, 03:58:44 PM »
the overhang does not block the reciever, so my dad and i will fabricate something.

the sides of the camper that goes in the bed, which is just luan is fairly rotted, is this structural?

the ceiling plywood has water stains from a leak i will fix, but to replace the plywood i would probably have to pull the bathroom and cabinets out correct?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

Lou Schneider

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #39 on: December 15, 2012, 04:31:07 PM »
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the sides of the camper that goes in the bed, which is just luan is fairly rotted, is this structural?

Yes and no.  The luan provides some stiffness to the framing that carries the load of the camper.  Eventually all of the weight has to get down to the 4'x8' footprint that sits in the truck bed.

If you have the clearance, change it out for a piece of outdoor rated  plywood.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2012, 04:32:54 PM by Lou Schneider »

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #40 on: December 15, 2012, 06:08:23 PM »
thanks, how would i determine if the structure can handle adding an awning?

also the previous owner plced two 2x4's along the length of the bottom to raise it off the bed and prevent water from sitting on the bottom, could this be a structural issue?
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

infinitefoamies

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #41 on: December 22, 2012, 07:18:24 PM »
just picked up a ups(uninteruptable power supply) for free but it needs new batteries. im trying to decide if i replace with the stock sizes or some larger but still small ones or go with car size batteries. i just figured i could use it for at night when its late to run the gen or to save on the inverter drawing on the truck batteries, probably just to run the computer and maybe a tv or a few speakers...
89' winner escape "The Germinator"
89' F350 XLT 7.3l Diesel "?"
88' F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L turbo Diesel "Carlynda"
86' Sunline TC "?"
81' Tartan 3000 "Whimbrel"
75' Lugar kit "?"
73' MGB GT "Veronika"

catblaster

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Re: RVing out of the box
« Reply #42 on: December 22, 2012, 09:45:09 PM »
Used to heat rations on engine block, just remember to pop a hole in the lid. Used fire extinguisher to chill off a six pack from the village also.
Will and Jane
95 Winnebago Luxor

 

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