Refrigerator & Leveling

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seanmc2

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Jan 17, 2013
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How level does the coach need to be to prevent refrigerator damage/malfunction??
 
Pertaining to a TT, as close as possible without blowing a gasket.  I have found that if you are "within the ballpark" you will be fine.  If I understand your question, you won't damage the the refer by being a bit off level.  I'm talking half bubble or so.
 
TT = Travel trailers  5w or 5er refers to fifth wheels.  Usually 3 degrees or less.  That equates to 1 foot on a 33 foot moterhome.  Not very comfortable to even walk in
 
I am a 10 year full timer and I never bother to level my RV. I just park it as level as I can and I have never had any refer problems. So long as you don't feel like you are in a fun house you are good to go.
 
The short answer is to level it enough so that you are comfortable living in the trailer.

The long answer is that manufacturers recommend leveling the fridge to within 6? front to rear and 3? side to side.  In a standard traiiler that would be leveling to within 11 inches laterally and 12 inches in a 24-26 foot trailer,    A foot side to side and back to front is pretty rough leveling.
 
I was told by the manufacturer that newer units do not need to be level for the refrigerator.  I have been parked a couple of times in driveways when I practically rolled out of bed and the refrigerator worked fine!

I also seldom bother with blocks to level my motorhome.  As long as it feels comfortable to walk in and I don't roll out of bed, it is fine.

JudyJB
 
Carl L said:
The short answer is to level it enough so that you are comfortable living in the trailer.

The long answer is that manufacturers recommend leveling the fridge to within 6? front to rear and 3? side to side.  In a standard traiiler that would be leveling to within 11 inches laterally and 12 nched in a 24-26 foot trailer,    A foot side to side and back to front is pretty rough leveling.
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Makes sense.

Older fridges are much more sensitive however.  The 40 year old fridge in my truck camper has to be level within 1/2 a degree or so.  It's a nuisance.
 
We regularly traverse some pretty steep roads.  Refer is running in transit the whole time. I've yet to damage anything.  Last trailer was 19 years old when we sold it.  Perhaps the older ones were more sensitive. 
 
As long as the unit is rolling. leveling is not a concern. It's when parked for an extended time that causes the problems.

The specs are in the documentation with refers. Just remember front to back on a refer is actually side to side in relation to the rv.
 
FWIW, here's my take on the subject. Having to replace a reefer or a reefer cooling unit is an expensive proposition. So why take a chance? Level the rig as best you can and spend your money on something else.
 
BruceinFL said:
FWIW, here's my take on the subject. Having to replace a reefer or a reefer cooling unit is an expensive proposition. So why take a chance? Level the rig as best you can and spend your money on something else.
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Amen..that's the way I do it..

George
 
JudyJB said:
I was told by the manufacturer that newer units do not need to be level for the refrigerator. 
Click to expand...
I've seen this or similar referenced before.  If valid, when did the change occur...what constitutes old and what constitutes "newer"?
 
Tom,

Having had both the Norcold 1200 and 1210 and being careful to level whenever parked, they all will fail eventually. Leveling will certainly help keep them going a little longer. I don't think I would trust any manufacturer when they arbitrarily change the rules.  :(
 
Technically that dealer is very wrong but as a practical matter it's probably ok.  The specs for "level" have not changed in at least a dozen years - check any current owner manual. Norcold says within  3 degrees front to back and 6 degrees side to side. I believe Dometic is the same, but I haven't looked recently.  The RV has to be way off-level to exceed that spec, so in practice you are probably ok if it is comfortable to walk around inside. But if you left the fridge on while the rv is parked at a fairly steep angle, maybe in a restaurant or store parking lot, you could be doing internal damage.

The fridge won't fail immediately just because it runs while far off-level for a half-hour, but damage builds up over time and eventually leads to an early demise. It may be two years later when it finally gives up and you say "what the heck happened?", never remembering the previous abuse.
 
I ask the experts...
Is it safe to say the the closer the RV is to level when parked, the better the the refer will run? 

If "Yes" is the answer, it also seems to me that the power usage (propane/AC/DC) will be minimal.  Am I splitting hairs?
 
Norcold Refrigerators use very little in the way of power AC or DC power to function. Propane wise they will run for month or more on a single 30 pound bottle.

 
Well, they do work better level,  AC usage when running is 300-400 watts, Propane is the equivlent amount (Sorry do not know the formula for that) note the WHEN RUNNING) average use depends on other conditions but generally manufacturers target 50% as the cooling system duty cycle. at 70 degrees room/outside temp.

If the Fridge is a dual pwoer (AC/Gas) 12 volt use is fairly constant since it is running only the control and ignition systems (Ignition only if using propane) `and the control system runs 24x7.

NOTE: Norecold, and Dometic both have some new dual power 12 volt 120 volt fridges that sip less than 50 watts running, and even less at idle, The same technology by a differerent company chest freezer I have works very well.
 
Thanks Mike and John.  The TT being blocked up, I think I am fine.  Now if I can only get rid of the gremlin in my Norcold that I haven't found yet.  :-\
 
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