Check engine light just came on

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Wavery said:
I hate it when they use wire nuts on vehicles. They have a propensity to vibrate loose and or form corrosion inside.
I am a retired electrician and I agree with you about wire nuts on RVs. I have mentioned that fact on this forum and taken some heat for my position, so I am glad to see someone else feels the same. However, I am the one who installed those wire nuts and I guarantee you the RV will fall apart before those wire nuts come loose. They are only for the mp3 player in the dash so it is not a critical installation. Corrosion in Florida??? Nah, never going to happen. ::)
 
captsteve said:
In 2 and a half weeks, I'll be down there and be all over that thing like a bloodhound. I may need to talk to you guys to help but I think as you do that we can get this right!!
I am anxiously awaiting you and Trina's arrival. Not so much because of repairing the beast, but I felt cheated that we only got to spend 30 minutes together on the 31st. Don't forget to polish your RV, this is a real high class place ::) ::) ::)
 
SeilerBird said:
No, don't do that, bugs on the front of a vehicle attracts birds. ;D
captsteve said:
yes, But I really don't want to attract them at 65mph!!!!! ;D
Would you two stop it and just wait until Steve gets there?  I'm getting tired of having to view this subject only to find it's just more prattle.  :mad: ;D
 
OK those two switchs are the brake switchs. The module is to the right of those.

oK the module is 2 inchs to thr right of those 2 brake switchs. Right where the bracket turns back toward the fire wall mounted so the wires are pointed towards you.

I wasn't aware I could move the pic over. I don't see it under there, but it has to be there. It's not in the same place mine is, but it has to have one.

Tom the gray box on the left side above the white switch, what color wires go in it. I'm going to go one lne on my gm site and see if they say some thing about a 93 chassis.

Can't get any info on our chassis, too old. can only go back to 99.

see if you can get a better pic of that gray box on the left side of the colum.
 
I drove the RV to Walmart yesterday and I noticed something interesting. The check engine light came on while I was decelerating. I had thought that it only came on when I pushed on the brake pedal but now I see the brakes have nothing to do with the problem. The light comes on when the tranny downshifts to second.
 
The plot thickens, really thick.

I drove to a transmission shop this morning to get my fluid changed and I asked about getting the 3-2 shift solenoid replaced. The service manager chatted with me about the problem and we decided his mechanic should go for a ride with me. When we got back he put a code reader on it and found no codes. He checked the tranny fluid and it was exactly where it should be. He told me I would have to leave it for a day or two and they could figure it out. Well I can't leave it for a day or two right now since I am living in it and I have two cats. I also don't have a lot of money so I could not afford a large bill.

So driving it home became a real nightmare. As I was driving it would go out of gear and the engine would rev up. I would let my foot off the gas and it would return to normal operation. Sometimes the check engine light would come on when it revved and sometime it wouldn't come on. I had to drive 25 miles to get it home and it got worse and worse with the engine revving every 15 seconds or so. Then just as I was pulling in the check engine light came on and stayed on and then I noticed the battery meter on the dash was reading 9 volts when the check engine light was on. The mechanic seemed to think it was an electrical problem and with this latest development I tend to agree.

When it is cold it runs and drives normally. The problem only happens when it gets warmed up. The engine revving problem doesn't seem to be speed dependent. This is exactly what was happening when I left Disney World, except I didn't notice the low voltage at that time. So I am at a loss. It doesn't seem logical that I have an electrical problem that only occurs when it is hot, but stranger things have happened. Anyone have a guess?
 
It almost sounds like a vacum problem. With it only doing it when warm would seem to suggest when it switches from warm up to run mode. Not sure what circuits are switching when it goes from cold to warm sounds like a good thing to research. I would lean toward a vacum diaphram failed and is off in cold mode then gets active after warm up. I am not sure if there would be a electrical solenoind involved from cold to warm its possible. Not sure if theres a subford on here for chevy's.
 
Tom it sounds as though the filter may be clogging up. Remember when something heats it expands which the particles in the filter is blocking off your flow of fluid through the fil;ter. This may also account for your overfull conditiopn when you checked it before because the fluid wasn't getting to the pump.
 
Well, Um sounds like the conuder tube has failed and caused the apprecio valve to open and dump all the volts on the road behind you. You better stop and sweep them up, you might need them later!

Yeah, I got nothing.....
 
I don't believe the 9V on the meter has anything to do with the trans problem... but, at 9v it may not be able to latch the solenoids and they may be dropping out. Do you have a VOM?  You need to check and see what the alternator is putting out at the altenator.
 
My-o-my, TomS, whatcha gonna do ?

You started this thread on Feb 11. There are now 5 pages of forum discussion with every one trying to help.

  Even professionals have not been able to pinpoint the problem. Needless to say that your reluctance to leave it at a shop for even one night doesn't help it either.

  I can't help you at all, after all the suggestions listed in the thread. Hopefully someone will hit the jackpot soon and come up with a remedy. If not you'll become a Florida resident against your will.

  Decisions, decisions seem to be called for.

 
gwcowgill said:
I don't believe the 9V on the meter has anything to do with the trans problem... but, at 9v it may not be able to latch the solenoids and they may be dropping out. Do you have a VOM?  You need to check and see what the alternator is putting out at the altenator.

Could it be a solenoind starting and then shorting the circuit then pulling down the power with a dead short.
 
The trouble is Carson, he is going to have to spend some money and I wouldn't call some of these transmission shops professionals. There can be several things going on here. A Chevrolet truck dealer can and do take down the valve body and clean the shift valves and change the solenoids but I am not sure they would do it with animals in the coach. I believe on that chassis there is an inline fuse from the alternator to the battery. Need to check that. I hope Tom gets it fixed. I don't think he has lost the transmission but after driving it with it slipping I wouldn't rule it out.
 
Go back and read post 21. Untill you rule this out, every thing is just a guess. You have to be SURE your alternator isn't putting out ac volts.
 
A/C Voltage indeed is undesirable but on a Chevrolet Chassis is not as critical as on some of the other chassis. All alternators put out some a/c ripple. In Tom's case as described to me talking with Tom, I am almost positive the check engine light is caused by a bad shift solenoid or the valve hanging in the valve body. The color of the fluid was not burnt which indicates the clutch packs were not slipping at that time. The transmission now going out of gear when warm is an indicator that fluid volume is not getting to the pump which very well could be caused by a clogged filter which would get worse as it warms up. Regardless, the pan needs to come down and the solenoid evaluated and possiblly the valve body dropped and cleaned. Most transmissions shops want to sell you a rebuild where they can make big dollars.
 
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