Photographic knowledge and tips for beginners

Photography tips for BEGINNERS

1 - Do you know a one word definition of photography? Photography is light. The lack of this knowledge is the main reason for a beginners photos to not come out as expected. The single most important rule for beginners is to make sure the sun is hitting you in the back of the head before you push the shutter. Your shadow should point directly at the subject. The sun should be lighting up the subject completely. If it is not possible to get the sun hitting you in the back of the head then turn on your flash.

2 - (read the fine manual). Not once, not twice but at least three times, each time about a month apart. When you first get the camera then sit down with the camera in your lap, the manual in your hand and go over every page. A month later do the same thing all over again. And then at least one more time. You are never going to use all the functions in a modern camera but it is helpful to know how to use the ones you wish to use.

3 - Learn the rules of composition. Get a book or Google it and read them online. Notice I did not say follow the rules of composition, I said learn them. Those rules have been around since before King Tut and they apply to all art forms. Break those rules whenever you wish, but at least know when you are breaking those rules.

4 - Before you take a photo make sure you have a subject in mind. Too many beginners take photos without a subject. They walk up to the south rim of the Grand Canyon and shoot the north rim. No foreground, no middle ground, all background. Put someone or something into the foreground to make the photo interesting. Nothing you photograph that is 10 miles away will impress anyone.

5 - The background is as important as the subject. Look through my photos sometime and you will see that I always make sure the background is not distracting from the subject, but the background should look good. In other words think of the entire image before pressing the shutter. You don?t want a telephone pole growing out of someones head.

6 - Film is cheap.  ;D ;D ;D If a subject is worth taking a photo of then don?t stop at one exposure. Keep shooting take at least a half a dozen. Try slightly different angles, both left and right and up and down. If your shot involves friends and relatives suggest a few different poses. Try it with different backgrounds. Don?t settle for just one shot, it might not come out. The more shots you take the better your odds are of getting a great shot.

7 - Always have your camera with you. The worst excuse in the world is ?I saw an Alien today and I didn?t have my camera with me.

8 - Don?t disturb wildlife. If you have to get so close to wildlife that they take off and flee then you needed a longer telephoto lens. Animals expend a lot of energy running, swimming or flying away from you. And once they flee the only thing you can shoot is it?s butt. I have witnessed many times a photographer with a short lens getting closer and closer until the subject flees in terror. Respect your subjects, don?t terrorize them.

9 - Don?t be afraid to experiment. Try different settings on the camera. Film is cheap.  ;D ;D ;D

10 - Did I mention (read the fine manual)? I am always amazed at how often I encounter people who cannot even turn their flash on in the daytime. They will ask me to take their photo and hand me the camera, then pose under the shade of a tree. So I ask them to turn the flash on for me and they give me a look like a deer caught in headlights.

11 - Never shoot down on a subject. It compresses distance and distorts the subject, usually in a bad way. And absolutely never shoot down on a woman, she will hate your for it.

Admin edit: This topic is for the posting of knowledge and tips only, and questions should be posted in their own (new) topic. Everyone is encouraged to add their favorite tips as replies to this topic.

A nice list, Tom, and this thread is a great idea. I'd like to make a few additional points about the subjects you mentioned:

Regarding no. 1: Be aware that this may make your subject squint or otherwise attempt to keep that too bright sun out of their eyes, but you do need that sun behind you. Also be aware that the camera doesn't tolerate as large a spread in bright to dark light as your eyes do. So be aware of hat brims, etc. that may cause shade and thus unwanted dark shadows.

Regarding no. 3: Don't just learn the rules, but practice them so that it becomes instinctive. All too often, a novice only wants to mess with the camera when they have a particular aim in mind. With today's digitals, you can throw away your practice shots, so please, please spend some time practicing the use of the camera and composition, so that you won't have to waste time practicing with a picture you really want. If all you want is a quick snapshot, and care little about the results, you can disregard this.

Regarding no. 4: On a scenic such as the Grand Canyon, a tree limb on the edge of the foreground, an interesting bush or tree, or a rock formation (for examples) can serve as the subject, if you don't have someone (or something) special that you want in the picture.

Regarding no. 5: I'd add that you want to be sure the background isn't cluttered (unless that's the purpose of your pic). As Tom says, look over the entire image, not just the subject.

Regarding no. 8: Remember that there is a reason it's called wildlife -- they aren't tame pets, and some of them (especially the larger ones) can be dangerous if not treated with proper respect.

I'd also like to add that learning to keep the camera still will minimize the blur in your pictures (often comes from jerking the camera as you snap, rather than gently press, the shutter release).

And don't forget that you can turn the camera sideways 90? to more easily accommodate tall, thin objects.

Keep your lens clean. Dirt, smudges and dust can cause some degree of indistinctness in your image. Lens cleaning materials are cheap at your camera store.

Comment on rule # 2.  If  you have an iPad or other tablet, download the manual for your camera(s), put them on your tablet and take it along with you for an easy reference to any questions you have while traveling. Ditto for any ebooks on technique or other topics you might wish to refer to while traveling.

Do you want the photo to be totally sharp or do you want to blur the background and/or the foreground? Learn what variations in shutter speed and f stop will do to your depth of field.

If your camera has a continuous shot mode, play with it and learn how it works, especially when shooting people, kids and animals. Many times you will press the shutter button just a moment to soon or  late. If you are taking 2-10 shot continuous shots, you have a much better chance of getting a good shot. i.e., Tom's experience with the tigers.

Excellent comments, Larry. I agree with everything you have posted.

Larry N. said:

Be aware that this may make your subject squint or otherwise attempt to keep that too bright sun out of their eyes, but you do need that sun behind you. Also be aware that the camera doesn't tolerate as large a spread in bright to dark light as your eyes do. So be aware of hat brims, etc. that may cause shade and thus unwanted dark shadows.

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You don't want your subjects to be squinting and you don't want to photograph them with hats or sunglasses on. There are several ways around this problem. You can take your subjects into a shaded spot, like under a tree and use a flash. You can turn your subjects around so the sun is too their back and use a flash. Or you can wait until the sun is lower on the horizon, like at sunrise or sunset to take the shot.

Don't just learn the rules, but practice them so that it becomes instinctive. All too often, a novice only wants to mess with the camera when they have a particular aim in mind. With today's digitals, you can throw away your practice shots, so please, please spend some time practicing the use of the camera and composition, so that you won't have to waste time practicing with a picture you really want.

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I still follow this practice. I take lots of shots that I know I am not going to keep just to keep my itchy trigger finger warm. And occasionally one of them surprises me and is a keeper. If you follow Larry's suggestion eventually taking photographs becomes instinctive.

On a scenic such as the Grand Canyon, a tree limb on the edge of the foreground, an interesting bush or tree, or a rock formation (for examples) can serve as the subject, if you don't have someone (or something) special that you want in the picture.

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This is called framing a photo. It will make all the difference in the world in a scenic shot.

Remember that there is a reason it's called wildlife -- they aren't tame pets, and some of them (especially the larger ones) can be dangerous if not treated with proper respect.

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Great point Larry. And don't underestimate any wildlife because of size. I have been attacked by hummingbirds. Do you know what animal bites more tourists in Yosemite every year? Squirrels. Over 300 a year.

Chet18013 said:

Do you want the photo to be totally sharp or do you want to blur the background and/or the foreground? Learn what variations in shutter speed and f stop will do to your depth of field.

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Excellent point Chet. I did not include that in my original post because I feel that f stops, ISO and shutter speeds are not subjects for beginners. That is more intermediate than beginner. It takes a lot of studying and practicing to get depth of field manipulation correct.

One item I've found that's great for keeping lenses clean is the Lens Pen. It has a soft brush on one end for removing dust and a soft disc on the other for removing smudges. Really works great and is easy to carry. 

I'd like to suggest another rule.  Buy the best lens(s) you can afford.  A camera is just a recording device.  There is no substitute for good glass!

Jim Dick said:

One item I've found that's great for keeping lenses clean is the Lens Pen. It has a soft brush on one end for removing dust and a soft disc on the other for removing smudges. Really works great and is easy to carry.

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Good idea Jim. I noticed a spot on my lens last week that had gotten there on a wet ride at Disney World. It was a waterproof camera so no damage, but when I looked at the photos I could see the spot on every photo and they were all ruined.

My best advice is SHOOT, SHOOT and then when you are finished SHOOT SOME MORE!!

Digital is free for all practical purposes so shoot a bunch and then sort out the good ones, learn to bracket your exposures, frame your photos with something in the foreground and choose various focus points and shoot the scene multiple times, then sort them out on the computer. Eventually you will find what works best with your camera and lenses and then you can shoot less and get good results.

Good glass is important and clean lenses as well...

BUT SHOOT! Always have the camera within reach.

Jim

Personally I don't subscribe to the "have to buy the best glass available" theory. I think they are a waste of money. First off if you have a 16 megapixel camera and you wish to view the image on a computer monitor you must first toss out 14 megapixels. Why? Because a standard 1920 x 1080 monitor only has 2 megapixels. If you are going to print then you have to be printing billboard size and get up real close to notice any problems with lens sharpness. I have owned Canon L glass and I never saw anything that would make me think those lenses were any sharper than any other non L lens I have owned from any manufacturer. For example, I use to own the Canon 70-200 L lens which cost over $1000. I currently own a Sony 75-300 that cost $250. The Sony is just as sharp as the L lens. My Tamron 200-500 is just as sharp as my Canon 100-400 L lens.

I hang out of photography forums and there are plenty of "pixel peepers" who blow up images and look at them on the pixel level trying to prove their lens is sharper than someone else's lens. How childish. You can't look at an image on a computer monitor and have the vaguest idea if you are looking at an image from a $10,000 lens or a $500 lens.

The most important factors in the sharpness of a photo is not the "sharpness" of the lens. It is how the camera was adjusted, how stable the camera was when the shot was taken and the ability of the person doing the post processing.

Now before you hit the reply button to attack me because I am stepping on one of photographys sacred cows please read the following article by Ken Rockwell:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm

SeilerBird said:

Personally I don't subscribe to the "have to buy the best glass available" theory. I think they are a waste of money. First off if you have a 16 megapixel camera and you wish to view the image on a computer monitor you must first toss out 14 megapixels. Why? Because a standard 1920 x 1080 monitor only has 2 megapixels. If you are going to print then you have to be printing billboard size and get up real close to notice any problems with lens sharpness. I have owned Canon L glass and I never saw anything that would make me think those lenses were any sharper than any other non L lens I have owned from any manufacturer. For example, I use to own the Canon 70-200 L lens which cost over $1000. I currently own a Sony 75-300 that cost $250. The Sony is just as sharp as the L lens. My Tamron 200-500 is just as sharp as my Canon 100-400 L lens.

I hang out of photography forums and there are plenty of "pixel peepers" who blow up images and look at them on the pixel level trying to prove their lens is sharper than someone else's lens. How childish. You can't look at an image on a computer monitor and have the vaguest idea if you are looking at an image from a $10,000 lens or a $500 lens.

The most important factors in the sharpness of a photo is not the "sharpness" of the lens. It is how the camera was adjusted, how stable the camera was when the shot was taken and the ability of the person doing the post processing.

Now before you hit the reply button to attack me because I am stepping on one of photographys sacred cows please read the following article by Ken Rockwell:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm

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I am familiar with that article and it is right on! Most of the manufacturers make a point of having various levels of "quality" lenses and you are correct in that even the basic "kit" lenses on most DSLR systems are way sharp enough for virtually any users ability. Composition, proper focus and exposure are much more important to a good photograph.

I will however disagree with you on what is required for a good print, vs good viewing on a computer monitor. You are correct that a standard RGB monitor will only use a very small portion of the "pixels" that most modern cameras have the ability to reproduce. Having a good sharp 16 X 20 or larger print however requires more pixels and image resolution and that is important. This is also not a factor of the lens but the resolution captured by the camera body and sensor.

My current system happens to be Olympus and they offer 3 "levels" of quality lenses. Once you shoot with one of the higher and therefore more expensive lenses you have a hard time going back. And there is a difference visibly when comparing the same shot taken with the two different lenses. Not a bunch, but a difference is there, is it worth it for every shot, of course not.

Most of my lenses are in the standard category and I am more than pleased with the results. I do own several of their mid-grade lenses and one of their high grade lenses and I have my eyes on one more, but it won't be until I can afford it. When I really need it for a specific assignment, I rent it.

Most of the higher grade lenses have other features that make the lens more desirable and it is generally not a matter of "sharpness" but rather an aperture range and the ability to shoot in lower light conditions, a "faster" lens. Which make picture taking easier and therefore better results than if shot with a slower "standard" lens.

Good glass will help, but it will not make a good photograph. Only a photographer can do that. I have seen some amazing IPhone photos, but you could never print a 16 X 20 print from it, but they look great on a computer monitor...

Jim

SeilerBird said:

Now before you hit the reply button to attack me because I am stepping on one of photographys sacred cows please read the following article by Ken Rockwell:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm

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Well, my friend, I disagree with that thing about the sun directly on the back of the shooters neck causing a shadow straight in front of the shooter - and have written off Ken Rockwell many references ago. OTOH, as you know, I agree with you on most everything else we discuss. Well, at least in the area of photography . . . 

In my own tests of my lenses, I can see the differences in sharpness between, say, a Tamron and my 100-400mm -- on my computer screen. I don't need the same res as the camera to do that. I recall well taking a group shot with the wide end of a Tamron and being very disappointed in the sharpness of those on the outer limits - compared to a borrowed Canon wide angle lens.

Also, I calibrated each of my lenses with my 50D using a made myself target. It was easy to see the differences on my computer screen - and the adjustments that were necessary.

If anyone wants to see rebuttals to Rockwell, just Google something like, "disagreements Ken Rockwell".

IMO, there is a difference in glass quality between lenses. And I go for the best I can afford. I recall when I first decided to go with Canon I chatted with Pros at Pardees Cameras in Sacramento and Active Photography in Roseville. Those are the two outlets that the area pros hang out and deal. They both keep on stock a full supply of Sigma and Tamron lenses. In my entire dealings with those two outlets, I never heard one opinion that either a Tamron or Sigma had the quality of a Canon L lens. Also, before buying my 100-400mm L lens, I noted that most every camera lens along the sidelines of sporting events were grey in color.

BTW, Tom -- am back in Laughlin shooting primarily ring billed gulls. Great practice for my BIF stuff. Am a long way from the "in flight" images I see in your portfolio but "am" getting a bit better.

There's a lot of interesting info in this thread, but how much of it is for beginners? IMHO lens quality, 16x20 prints and a few other things above, as important as they may be to some people or to some operations, are beyond the beginners stage. It's also getting a bit tougher to navigate through all this to find what tips there are.

Food for thought, folks...

Larry N. said:

There's a lot of interesting info in this thread, but how much of it is for beginners? IMHO lens quality, 16x20 prints and a few other things above, as important as they may be to some people or to some operations, are beyond the beginners stage. It's also getting a bit tougher to navigate through all this to find what tips there are.

Food for thought, folks...

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Thanks for the food, Larry -- I agree, but not sure what constitutes a "beginner" here.

Have seen a lot of folks now -- family members, forum friends, and so forth, pointing and shooting. The cameras we are able to purchase today do most all the stuff I would teach in a beginners course automatically. So other than a bit on composition, position of the sun, how far to hold the LCD screen from your eyes, and so forth -- what is left? Certainly not enough to devote an entire sticky topic to -- IMO. Tom covered about the entire gamut of point and shoot stuff in one post.

If I were going to teach a beginners course, the first thing I would require is to make Auto and P modes (or any of the scene modes) off limits. After that, the only way to capture an acceptable image would be to understand the basics of photography. Everything else would then start to fall into line - such as the characteristics of light and how to use them.

So the question I would have is, "Is this a topic for point and shoot beginners, or for those wanting to learn photography"? If just for point and shoot folks, I don't have a lot to contribute beyond Tom's initial post. Well, other than, "Point and shoot" .

Larry N. said:

There's a lot of interesting info in this thread, but how much of it is for beginners? IMHO lens quality, 16x20 prints and a few other things above, as important as they may be to some people or to some operations, are beyond the beginners stage. It's also getting a bit tougher to navigate through all this to find what tips there are.

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I agree with you Larry. I put beginners in all caps to make sure that everyone knew this was for beginners. I think it is totally wrong to tell a beginner he will not get sharp photos unless he goes out and spends thousands of dollars on lenses. That is just all wrong. Beginners are just trying to get images to come out right. They aren't worried about pixel peeping so they have best in show and they won't print billboard. I appreciate the comments I get from people here who disagree with me. I respect Bob as a photographer and a person and I like the exchange. I am putting this information out so that the beginners will not blame their equipment when their photos don't turn out as sharp as they could be. More expensive lenses won't solve their problems, proper technique will.

SeilerBird said:

Now before you hit the reply button to attack me because I am stepping on one of photographys sacred cows please read the following article by Ken Rockwell:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm

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Tom - I'm not going to attack you.  I just don't agree with you.  You are entitled to your opinion.  I have mine and we can agree to disagree.

Here is a video on composition that was recommended on my photograph forum. It is an hour long and well worth the effort no matter what your skill level is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpHMuK7Htic

And the guy is pretty funny too.

SeilerBird said:

I respect Bob as a photographer and a person and I like the exchange.

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Thank you, Tom -- the feeling is mutual.

It seems that some feel that better glass is not only about sharpness or pixelpeeping, but also issues such as flare, contrast, chromatic aberration, vignetting and so on. (Not beginner, but the subject was addressed above by OP.) Better glass can be better.

Pierat said:

It seems that some feel that better glass is not only about sharpness or pixelpeeping, but also issues such as flare, contrast, chromatic aberration, vignetting and so on. (Not beginner, but the subject was addressed above by OP.) Better glass can be better.

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Bingo - All of the above and it really does make a difference.

But that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

Jim