What kind of truck do I need? Help

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GypsySooners

GypsySooners

Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Posts
19
Location
Ocklawaha, FL
Hi everyone,

We're new to the site but not new to RV'ing.  We've owned a pull-behind, a Class C, and just traded our 2001 Monaco Class A for a Fifth Wheel.

We sort of bought the cart before the horse and now need a horse.

We have a 2006 Hitchhiker Champagne 37CKRD.  The hitch (pin) weight is 2760.  The dry weight without options (and ours has them all) is 14,180 and the GVW is 18,700.  I don't think we'll come anywhere nears the 18,700 though when towing.

We'll need some sort of extra cab for out pets.  I like ford (had two V-10's and loved them) and am considering the GM Duramax diesel too.  We're trying to decide between a nice truck that my wife can drive when not towing or a cheaper tow truck and a third economy car.  I think Ford is going to make some really good deals on the diesel 2006's because of reputation and I might be interested.

I need some help here.  Do I need to go beyond the one ton?  What would some of you suggest?  If I had my choice, and it'd work, I'd go F-350 or the GM 3500, 4 door, short bed with single rear wheels.  I'm not a Mopar fan.

Sure do want to thank you all in advance and I'll be checking but feel free to email too.
Rich
 
We sort of bought the cart before the horse and now need a horse.
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Actually, that's the smart way to do it! You wouldn't want to buy a draft horse when his only job was turn a children's carousel, nor would you buy a pony to pull a plow across the fields.

I'll let the experts make their recommendations, as I don't know the Shetlands from the Percherons of the towing world ;D
 
The SRW models are going to be light on rear axle capacity for that much pin weight, so you need duals.  And you will probably be much closer to the 18,700 trailer GVWR than you expect.  Options will likely increase the 14,180 dry weight to around 15,000 and also increase the 2760 pin weight a bit.  Clothing, food and gear will add an amazing amount more and will increase over time as you accumulate "stuff".  17,000-17,500 is in easy reach and 18,000 not at all a stretch.

I'd guess you need to be looking at a 26,000 lb GCWR on the truck.  In the Ford you can get that in the diesel F350 with the 4.30 rear axle or any of the F450 models. I'm assuming you get either a Supercab or a Crew Cab - either would be fine for your needs. Most people get the 4 door Crew Cab these days, but the Supercab rear doors are also large and provide easy entry/exit.  Ditto for the Chevy 3500.

A capable truck will have a steep enough price tag that you won't really notice the difference between the "nice truck" and the cheaper one. May as well go for the gold.  ;)  These big trucks are surprisingly comfortable and luxurious - I've ridden in many of them and owned a Superduty diesel myself several years back. But they are big when you get to the supermarket parking lot - even a short bed Supercab will run be over 20 feet in length. You get used to the length fairly quickly and simply avoid short or narrow parking slots.
 
I might add, that with that 18K GVW on a trailer, he has moved into Medium Duty truck country -- Peterbilts, Volvos and such.  The MD trucks are in the same price neighborhood as the super duty pickups, the Ford 450s and 550s, and are a non-holds barred, single purpose trailer tractor with a decent range of engines.  Worth a look anyway.
 
I'd say he is on the very light end of Medium Duty at roughly 26-28,000 lbs GCWR.  A Kodiak 4500 or F450 should do the job. So would an FL50 and as you say, it's a more "no holds barred" truck than the others.  But I get the impression that Rich is trying to avoid anything that macho.
 
RV Roamer said:
I'd say he is on the very light end of Medium Duty at roughly 26-28,000 lbs GCWR.? A Kodiak 4500 or F450 should do the job. So would an FL50 and as you say, it's a more "no holds barred" truck than the others.? But I get the impression that Rich is trying to avoid anything that macho.
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Well shoot, get a lavender Peterbilt.  ::)


 
Thanks, Guys!  I think we're going to go look, and drive, at the F-350 with the 4.30 limited slip.  All they have left are loaded Lariats but, like you said, why not go for the gold.  :)
 
GypsySooners said:
Thanks, Guys!? I think we're going to go look, and drive, at the F-350 with the 4.30 limited slip.? All they have left are loaded Lariats but, like you said, why not go for the gold.? :)
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As you can see in my signature, I have a dually with the tow boss package (4.30 Limited slip). Accrording to Ford's RV and Trailer Towing Guide, my truck is rated to tow a 19,400 Lb 5th Wheel trailer. When I got my truck, it was only about $2,000 more that the Lariats, but well worth the creature comfort, which was about $1,000 more than the XLT version.

Larry
 
GypsySooners said:
Thanks, Guys!? I think we're going to go look, and drive, at the F-350 with the 4.30 limited slip.? All they have left are loaded Lariats but, like you said, why not go for the gold.? :)
Click to expand...

When you visit the Truck dealer remember that it may not be in your best interest to believe everything the salesman tell you.  Make him show you documentation.  When you visit have your trailer weights with you and make the salesman show you the documentation that proves what they are trying to sell you will in fact do the job legally and safely. Overweight is not safe.  When doing this remember to figure in the 20% allowance Carl mentions.
 
GypsySooners said:
Thanks, Guys!? I think we're going to go look, and drive, at the F-350 with the 4.30 limited slip.? All they have left are loaded Lariats but, like you said, why not go for the gold.? :)
Click to expand...

When you do, verify the tow ratings from a source other than the dealer's assurances.  We use either mfrs printed ratings or the Trailer Life tables which can be seen HERE.    Do keep in mind our safety factor of 10% -- or 20% in the west
 
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