chevy p30 BOX TRUCK CONVERSION TO RV~~~~~ELECTRICAL HELP~~~~~~

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redneckrv

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Feb 23, 2013
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2
im new to this whole thing and i want to turn my chevy p30 box truck in to an rv

my question is in some wireing im wanting to do if some one could break this down for me it would be amazing this

is the only skill i lack i can run electrical but dont really know how to convert it and what not


im purchasing an roof top rv ac unit with heat strip
HOW DO I WIRE THIS IN?

also i want to have a CUSTOM console up front on top the engine conpartment with 12v plug such as this
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA07R06H3682

and also have a screen for a back up camera  and have a reguler car stereo and a cb

MY GOAL IS TO TO JUST BE ABLE TO PLUG INTO A REGULER POWER OUTLET AND POWER MY TRUCK

and HAVE A BATTERY BANK which will charge from driving    I MIGHT INSTALL AN ONAN GENERATOR ALSO




IF ANYONE CAN GIVE ME HELP ON WHAT I NEED TO CONVERT ANY OF THIS OF HOW I NEED TO WORE PLZ HELP IM SO LOST
 
RV wiring - done correctly - is not something the untrained should attempt.  It is much more complex than typical house wiring.  Since you admittedly fall in the category of the "untrained" in electrical wiring, I recommend you consider swapping your truck for an existing motor home with the needed wiring already in place.
 
The roof top a/c is a 120v device and is wired directly to the motorhomes shore power (120v system) system and should have its own dedicated circuit breaker. It never runs from batteries, though the circuit board and thermostat interface may require some 12vdc in addition to the 120v that powers the compressor and heat strips. Typically the a/c is served by a 20A circuit, though it should in fact never exceed 11-14 amps (depending on the model chosen).

Are you planning on 30A or 50A shore power service for the RV? And do you understand the difference? Clue: the difference is not just 20A.

You will want a separate battery bank for the house part of the RV. It is electrically isolated from the engine battery but can still be charged from the engine alternator while driving. This requires a battery isolator, perhaps something like these:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/rv-battery-isolator.htm

You will need a power converter (converter/charger) that charges the battery(s) for the house portion while plugged to shore power or using a generator. This component supplies 12v power while parked with shore power and recharges the batteries if needed. Progressive Dynamics is a popular brand, and are available as separate units or integrated with a power distribution panel.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Progressive-Dynamics-Converters_c_81.html

I suspect you have a lot of self-education to do before this conversion starts. To do a proper (i.e. safe and practical) job, you need to develop some expertise in both 120v and 12v power systems and plan carefully.
 
Molaker said:
RV wiring - done correctly - is not something the untrained should attempt.  It is much more complex than typical house wiring.  Since you admittedly fall in the category of the "untrained" in electrical wiring, I recommend you consider swapping your truck for an existing motor home with the needed wiring already in place.


I DONT WANT TO SWAP MY TRUCK I LOVE MY TRUCK

Gary RV Roamer said:
The roof top a/c is a 120v device and is wired directly to the motorhomes shore power (120v system) system and should have its own dedicated circuit breaker. It never runs from batteries, though the circuit board and thermostat interface may require some 12vdc in addition to the 120v that powers the compressor and heat strips. Typically the a/c is served by a 20A circuit, though it should in fact never exceed 11-14 amps (depending on the model chosen).

Are you planning on 30A or 50A shore power service for the RV? And do you understand the difference? Clue: the difference is not just 20A.

You will want a separate battery bank for the house part of the RV. It is electrically isolated from the engine battery but can still be charged from the engine alternator while driving. This requires a battery isolator, perhaps something like these:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/rv-battery-isolator.htm

You will need a power converter (converter/charger) that charges the battery(s) for the house portion while plugged to shore power or using a generator. This component supplies 12v power while parked with shore power and recharges the batteries if needed. Progressive Dynamics is a popular brand, and are available as separate units or integrated with a power distribution panel.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Progressive-Dynamics-Converters_c_81.html

I suspect you have a lot of self-education to do before this conversion starts. To do a proper (i.e. safe and practical) job, you need to develop some expertise in both 120v and 12v power systems and plan carefully.

not sure the diff in 30a  and 50a

im really confussed by this whole thing

yes i dont have as much experience as should maby my dad will be helping and he knows much about electrical but idk about rv electrical

if some one could break this down for me further it would be great  maby try putting it to me likee a 5th grader lol

like ac wires down to  this this this

this piece is for this and it will do this this this

i might be asking much im not sure i dont have funds to hire a specialist to do this for me

im not sure where els to turn to learn how to do all this
 
I think you are in over your head, and maybe Dad's head too.  RV wiring is a combination of house wiring and car (12v) wiring, with some propane (LPG) thrown in as well. Some RV appliances can run off all three power sources (120v, 12v, and LPG), some two sources, and a few only one.  You can perhaps simplify some if you don't mind losing flexibility of power source, but that flexibility is part of what makes the RV mobile fun.  Do you want anything at all to work in this ersatz motorhome when there is no shore power or generator available?  If so, you need to provide something in addition to household-type wiring, and that's when things start to get complex.

You haven't yet mentioned your plans for a fridge, water heater, maybe an LPG furnace, etc. Or batteries for 12v operation.

Here is an article on RV electric systems that may help shed some light:
http://www.rv-dreams.com/rv-electrical.html
 
I am an electrician and I agree with the above posters, you need to hire an electrician. If you really want to do the job yourself first get a copy of the National Electrical Code and read it cover to cover so you understand all the codes and rules. Meanwhile remember, the majority of RV fires are caused by electrical problems.

http://www.nfpa.org/aboutthecodes/AboutTheCodes.asp?DocNum=70&cookie_test=1
 
I thought the majority of R/V fires are caused by propane refrigerators.
But then I just discovered a completely fried neutral wire wirenut where my shore cord connects to the power supply switch relay.
 
TonyDtorch said:
I thought the majority of R/V fires are caused by propane refrigerators.
But then I just discovered a completely fried neutral wire wirenut where my shore cord connects to the power supply switch relay.
I don't know it for fact, but I have heard that rumor from several sources. But if the propane does catch fire it usually needs a spark.
 
There are two separate electrical systems in a RV, 120 volts and 12 volts.  12 volts is used so your lights, fans, etc. can run from the batteries when you're not hooked up to electricity.  120 volts is for your large appliances and the converter that changes 120 volts into 12 volts.

A motorized RV will have a second 12 volt system for the motor and automobile parts of the vehicle.  It's kept separate from the house stuff, so you can completely run down the house batteries and still have another fresh battery to start the engine.

See if this guide makes sense - it's written by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Club technical director.

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
 
redneckrv said:
not sure the diff in 30a  and 50a

take a class. go on youtube and watch one of the several excellent learning aids. you cant physically do this alone. its just not safe. no matter how much we tell you or how much you think you know. you have to be shown. that's just how it goes man. please heed these gentlemen's and my warnings. they're not just being jerks or just poo pooing you. this is real stuff.
 
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