I have '93 Bounder on a '92 P30 chassis,16,000 gvwr. I'm handy with wrenches. If you have done brakes and shocks, etc. on other cars and light trucks, you can do this yourself. The biggest difference is safely getting it up on jack stands. Lift one axle at a time, don't try four wheels up and go yanking on wrenches while under it. Left front wheel and a metal panel behind it have to be removed to access the master cylinder. Replace all 5 flexible brake hoses while under there. Chassis has to be close to level fore and aft for proper brake bleeding, the proportioning valve works by sensing the nose dive of heavy braking and reduces flow to rear brakes. If you have a hard time getting a good pedal after new brakes installed and you've pushed a lot of clear fluid through, the new brakes probably need to be burnished/bedded/broken in.
Napa got me all the correct parts on the first try, including new master cylinder, new rear calipers and pads all around, new rear wheel bearings and seals and 5 new brake hoses. You need to know if you have disc/drum or all disc brakes, as well as dual rear tires, and whether or not you have hydroboost and autopark parking brake. If you have 4 wheel disc, dual rear tires and hydroboost you probably have JF9 brakes from Bendix. Inform parts guy it's a motorhome, cab forward P30 chassis.
I just did this on mine, replaceing the M/C took most of a day on my back, in the cold and I was pretty sore the next day. Rotor and hub assy's are heavy, even the calipers are awkward. If you can remove/replace a tire and wheel you can do it. The most frustrating was bleeding and bleeding, trying to get a good pedal, Nan and I pushed more than a gallon of brake fluid through it looking for that last burp of bubbles. That is when an 80 something old man asked me, "all new on your rear axle? You need to bed them in. Drive it and hit the brakes hard several times." I googled it and got a better idea of what he meant. It can take up to a couple dozen or more hard brake applications, without stopping completely to bed them. Let them cool while driving for a few miles before next application. Some info said 30 times from 30 mph, some said do some at 30 then do some at 45. I have done about a dozen of these and the pedal is improving. The Chilton manual is kinda vague on wheel bearing tightening procedure for the rear axle because of the different applications. I have a Dana 80 and the Chilton's procedure for GM full floating axle is correct for Dana 80 full floating axle. I'm pushing 60 and sort of fit, YMMV.
I want better shocks too, not high on my list right now. Too cold and ground is too wet to be crawling around under it. It's easier in the cold when the ground is frozen. I'm prepping the outside for the Zep Wet Look FF treatment, before the pollen starts really flying. Then the roof. Then back under it for a punchlist to clean up a kind of shoddy longblock installation. everything works as it should, except poorly spliced tranny cooling lines and missing heat shields causing a CHARRED with ash on it, hydroboost line to parking brake as well as melted, some charred, spark plug wires.
Bill
