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Author Topic: Class C coach battery and Generator  (Read 6633 times)

Charlie 5320

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  • Posts: 1939
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #30 on: May 15, 2013, 09:24:32 PM »
When did Winnebago start charging the house battery from the alternator? My 80 Itasca did not, but it would charge from the BFA gen set.
2003 National Dolphin 5320
496  8.1  Workhorse

98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
SOLD

Just Lou

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  • Posts: 8125
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #31 on: May 15, 2013, 09:34:49 PM »
I have a 1990 Itasca class 'c' . My question is if your are dry camping and are using your genset to run the coach ie AC, microwave etc. . At night so you dont have to hear the genset and just need the coach battery for water pump lights, does the converter switch it automatically or is their  a manual way of doing this. I know the new RV's have a switch to do this, but how about the older ones. BTW the batteries is getting charged from the genset and is working properly. I did search but didnt find any solid answers to this issue. Thank you for the help.

Note the OP's original post.

My replies simply gave the OP credit for stating fact.  If the converter is indeed charging the batteries, there cannot be a blown fuse, tripped breaker or burned fusible link... period.  The current goes to, and returns from, the battery on the same path.... see the diagram.

If it's only the engine alternator that's charging the house batteries (as kennyshark is so sure of) then all bets are off. ;) :)
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Just Lou

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  • Posts: 8125
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #32 on: May 15, 2013, 09:37:50 PM »
When did Winnebago start charging the house battery from the alternator? My 80 Itasca did not, but it would charge from the BFA gen set.

I've never seen one that wasn't designed to charge boh chassis and house batteries from the alternator.  It only takes a simple isolator.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Charlie 5320

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  • Posts: 1939
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #33 on: May 15, 2013, 09:42:52 PM »
OH, you're right Lou. I forgot about the switch on the dash, mom/both. I never used that feature.

One thing I've been thinking about. Is there any reason I can't use a 8ga wire and jump my isolator so I can keep the chassis battery up too?
« Last Edit: May 15, 2013, 09:48:17 PM by 92GA »
2003 National Dolphin 5320
496  8.1  Workhorse

98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
SOLD

kennyshark

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  • Posts: 92
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #34 on: May 15, 2013, 09:54:02 PM »
OK here is how my 1984 Shasta was/is wired, there was a "starting/chassis" battery, then a "coach" battery. there was a solenoid between the two batteries to isolate them from each other. when the ignition key was ON the batteries were connected by a solenoid and a #6 gauge wire, which would charge all batteries. But when the key is off then the starting battery is disconnected from the "coach" battery..

Just Lou

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  • Posts: 8125
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #35 on: May 15, 2013, 09:55:28 PM »
OH, you're right Lou. I forgot about the switch on the dash, mom/both. I never used that feature.

One thing I've been thinking about. Is there any reason I can't use a 8ga wire and jump my isolator so I can keep the chassis battery up too?

It was my understanding that Damom uses the Intellitec Battery Control Center to accomplish just that.  Do you have battery disconnect switches by the entry door?  Maybe they didn't start using the BCC until later than '95.

There's nothing wrong with jumping the batteries together to keep them charged up.  Just remember that the jumper works both ways.  If some condition happens to run down the house batteries, the chassis battery goes with it.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Charlie 5320

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  • Posts: 1939
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #36 on: May 15, 2013, 09:59:17 PM »
My disconnect is by the drivers seat. I have repaired both isolators and circuit breakers. I just want to connect the batteries when plugged in to shore power during winter storage.
2003 National Dolphin 5320
496  8.1  Workhorse

98 Damon Daybreak 3130
GM Vortech 454  4L80E
SOLD

Just Lou

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  • Posts: 8125
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #37 on: May 15, 2013, 10:03:50 PM »
OK here is how my 1984 Shasta was/is wired, there was a "starting/chassis" battery, then a "coach" battery. there was a solenoid between the two batteries to isolate them from each other. when the ignition key was ON the batteries were connected by a solenoid and a #6 gauge wire, which would charge all batteries. But when the key is off then the starting battery is disconnected from the "coach" battery..

That's a very common implementation.  It was certainly a step up from the diode isolator and also made the aux/emergency start function easier to implement.

My earlier comment about your reply was only because the engine running aspect of charging had not previously been introduced into this discussion.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Just Lou

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  • Posts: 8125
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #38 on: May 15, 2013, 10:05:51 PM »
My disconnect is by the drivers seat. I have repaired both isolators and circuit breakers. I just want to connect the batteries when plugged in to shore power during winter storage.

The jumper is certainly your cheapest option.  Others would suggest a trik-L-charge.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

03 cobra sb

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  • Posts: 66
Re: Class C coach battery and Generator
« Reply #39 on: May 16, 2013, 10:31:56 AM »
That means that,

1. the battery is dead (which you state it isn't)
2. there is an open circuit on either the positive or negative side of the battery.
3. there is a blown fuse at the converter.

I would start by looking for a bad ground wire connection from the battery to the frame.
You might also put your voltmeter on the battery with everything off, then turn on some lights and check the voltage again. Just because a battery shows fully charged after charging doesn't mean that the battery is good. If the voltage drops more than a couple tenths of a volt when turning on the lights, the battery could be shot and not even be able to light a light bulb.

My Ground is connected to the chassis, it was a little loose, tightened it an all works good. I would guess my inline fuse is the breakers at the converter, didnt find any other in line fuse. I thank you guys that have been doing this for a long time. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
90 Itasca 27' Class 'C'
Two of us and 1 lazy Basset named 'Lady'
92 Ford Ranger 'Toad"
Colorado

 

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