Class C coach battery and Generator

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All Gensets have a built in alternator, not a big one, but enough to charge the starting battery, because not all gensets start off the "starting" battery, some have their own starting battery, I have seen this on large conversion coaches. The "converter" is basically a transformer, some have better "smart" battery chargers built in but old ones like mine (1984) just pump 3Amps into the batteries whether they need it or not, it's not regulated like an alternator or (good) battery charger. I run all my batteries into a heavy duty "Blue Sea" battery switch, then installed a "Smart" battery isolator, it charges whichever battery bank needs it with the "starting" battery having priority. So when I'm sitting plugged into shore power OR the generator is running I switch the batteries to OFF then the automatic "three stage" battery charger does the job, but when running down the road the alternator charges all the batteries accordingly, the converter just runs everything (12volt) when I'm on shore power/generator.
 
I know that Lou. That's why I choose the 9260. I don't know if all 6300 series had 2 different out puts, but mine did. Both had different voltages when measured. I know that my batteries are fully charged now and haven't had to add water all winter.
 
Wavery said:
You probably have a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker. Do all of your lights work off the battery without any 110V input (either from shore power or generator)?
BTW...... on the older models, you may have a fuse right at the battery for your house current. Is your house battery mounted in the coach or in the engine compartment?
Click to expand...

Coach battery is in engine compartment
 
Wavery said:
You probably have a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker. Do all of your lights work off the battery without any 110V input (either from shore power or generator)?
BTW...... on the older models, you may have a fuse right at the battery for your house current. Is your house battery mounted in the coach or in the engine compartment?
Click to expand...

all 12v works only with shore or generator
 
Bob Buchanan said:
You write that the batteries are charging OK, but also asking how to switch to the batteries - so, for example, when you turn off the genset, do the DC lights stay on? If so, the auto switch worked, or, is everything dead DC wise when you turn off the genset?
Click to expand...

all is dead
 
03 cobra sb said:
all 12v works only with shore or generator
Click to expand...
That means that,

1. the battery is dead (which you state it isn't)
2. there is an open circuit on either the positive or negative side of the battery.
3. there is a blown fuse at the converter.

I would start by looking for a bad ground wire connection from the battery to the frame.
You might also put your voltmeter on the battery with everything off, then turn on some lights and check the voltage again. Just because a battery shows fully charged after charging doesn't mean that the battery is good. If the voltage drops more than a couple tenths of a volt when turning on the lights, the battery could be shot and not even be able to light a light bulb.
 
03 cobra sb said:
all is dead
Click to expand...

You said in your initial post that you knew the shore power and/or generator were charging your battery.  Is that still true?

If yes, then the problem can only be the relay that I pointed to on the diagram.  DC voltage is NOT directional.  If it will flow from converter/charger to the battery, it will also flow back when the converter is off.

It simply cannot be a blown fuse or circuit breaker if your original statement is true.
 
Or the relay that Lou, suggests is not working. Could also have a bad circuit breaker, from the battery to the power panel. My coach has circuit breakers near the batteries. Some of those breakers are resettable some reset by themselves. Look at the wires going from the battery to the power panel to see if you have the circuit breaker. Little rectangle looking thingy, with 2 post. See if you have voltage on both posts.
 
Just Lou said:
It simply cannot be a blown fuse or circuit breaker if your original statement is true.
Click to expand...
How is that? There has to be a fuse (or timed breaker) between the battery and the converter.

Did we ever determine which converter you actually have?
 
The fuseable link between the battery and the converter is blown, The "coach" battery will stay charged when the engine is running, BUT the converter will NOT Charge the starting battery, there is a solenoid that isolates the batteries when the key is off.
 
When did Winnebago start charging the house battery from the alternator? My 80 Itasca did not, but it would charge from the BFA gen set.
 
03 cobra sb said:
I have a 1990 Itasca class 'c' . My question is if your are dry camping and are using your genset to run the coach ie AC, microwave etc. . At night so you dont have to hear the genset and just need the coach battery for water pump lights, does the converter switch it automatically or is their  a manual way of doing this. I know the new RV's have a switch to do this, but how about the older ones. BTW the batteries is getting charged from the genset and is working properly. I did search but didnt find any solid answers to this issue. Thank you for the help.
Click to expand...

Note the OP's original post.

My replies simply gave the OP credit for stating fact.  If the converter is indeed charging the batteries, there cannot be a blown fuse, tripped breaker or burned fusible link... period.  The current goes to, and returns from, the battery on the same path.... see the diagram.

If it's only the engine alternator that's charging the house batteries (as kennyshark is so sure of) then all bets are off. ;) :)
 
92GA said:
When did Winnebago start charging the house battery from the alternator? My 80 Itasca did not, but it would charge from the BFA gen set.
Click to expand...

I've never seen one that wasn't designed to charge boh chassis and house batteries from the alternator.  It only takes a simple isolator.
 
OH, you're right Lou. I forgot about the switch on the dash, mom/both. I never used that feature.

One thing I've been thinking about. Is there any reason I can't use a 8ga wire and jump my isolator so I can keep the chassis battery up too?
 
OK here is how my 1984 Shasta was/is wired, there was a "starting/chassis" battery, then a "coach" battery. there was a solenoid between the two batteries to isolate them from each other. when the ignition key was ON the batteries were connected by a solenoid and a #6 gauge wire, which would charge all batteries. But when the key is off then the starting battery is disconnected from the "coach" battery..
 
92GA said:
OH, you're right Lou. I forgot about the switch on the dash, mom/both. I never used that feature.

One thing I've been thinking about. Is there any reason I can't use a 8ga wire and jump my isolator so I can keep the chassis battery up too?
Click to expand...

It was my understanding that Damom uses the Intellitec Battery Control Center to accomplish just that.  Do you have battery disconnect switches by the entry door?  Maybe they didn't start using the BCC until later than '95.

There's nothing wrong with jumping the batteries together to keep them charged up.  Just remember that the jumper works both ways.  If some condition happens to run down the house batteries, the chassis battery goes with it.
 
My disconnect is by the drivers seat. I have repaired both isolators and circuit breakers. I just want to connect the batteries when plugged in to shore power during winter storage.
 
kennyshark said:
OK here is how my 1984 Shasta was/is wired, there was a "starting/chassis" battery, then a "coach" battery. there was a solenoid between the two batteries to isolate them from each other. when the ignition key was ON the batteries were connected by a solenoid and a #6 gauge wire, which would charge all batteries. But when the key is off then the starting battery is disconnected from the "coach" battery..
Click to expand...

That's a very common implementation.  It was certainly a step up from the diode isolator and also made the aux/emergency start function easier to implement.

My earlier comment about your reply was only because the engine running aspect of charging had not previously been introduced into this discussion.
 
92GA said:
My disconnect is by the drivers seat. I have repaired both isolators and circuit breakers. I just want to connect the batteries when plugged in to shore power during winter storage.
Click to expand...

The jumper is certainly your cheapest option.  Others would suggest a trik-L-charge.
 
Wavery said:
That means that,

1. the battery is dead (which you state it isn't)
2. there is an open circuit on either the positive or negative side of the battery.
3. there is a blown fuse at the converter.

I would start by looking for a bad ground wire connection from the battery to the frame.
You might also put your voltmeter on the battery with everything off, then turn on some lights and check the voltage again. Just because a battery shows fully charged after charging doesn't mean that the battery is good. If the voltage drops more than a couple tenths of a volt when turning on the lights, the battery could be shot and not even be able to light a light bulb.
Click to expand...

My Ground is connected to the chassis, it was a little loose, tightened it an all works good. I would guess my inline fuse is the breakers at the converter, didnt find any other in line fuse. I thank you guys that have been doing this for a long time. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
 
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