Alaska with the Stocks 2013

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Henry Wishard said:
You guys are about to catch up with us. We left Fairbanks yesterday and arrived at Denali Nat'l Park. Had no space for us until Sunday. I would call ahead if you are wanting to stay inside the park . We are staying 2 nights at $14.00 each on that old senior card Ha! I sure could use some pizza tonight,I guess the 3 flavors of fudge will have to suffice.
  We are at the Denali RV Park about 8-10 miles before the entrance Of Denali Nat'l Park. Already tripped our 30 amp twice tonight.
We spent 7 nights in Fairbanks in '09.  This time we're only spending 4.  There are many things we really enjoyed last time, like the Ice Hotel which was amazing, but once you've been there and seen it, it doesn't need to be seen again.  Denali is only 125 miles from us, so I assume it's really hot there. We don't have the ability to use propane for cooking; we're all electric.  30 amps requires us to manage carefully, and if even that is tripping, we're in trouble.  Denali is the premier part of the trip--the major reason Dean wanted to come back.  I hope we can get in at the NP, but that's up to him to try.  Please keep us up on what to expect at Denali.  We hope you see lots of wonderful animals.
 
June 16 Day 30 Fairbanks, Alaska

Here are the pictures of the burl animals at The Knotty Shop, which I mentioned yesterday (Pictures 1 & 2)  I think the second one of the big mosquito is particularly relevant, as the mosquito in our RV is adding 2 bites a day and making me itch like crazy.

Dean spotted a Carl's Jr., his favorite restaurant, on our way into the park and tried to find it for our late, late dinner last night to no avail.  So today I used the Internet and found the address.  He's driven and worked hard, it's Father's Day, and he deserved his favorite brunch. 

We were surprised to open our RV's door and step out into a very comfortable, not muggy 81?.  We headed up to the park's car wash because our headlights were so caked with dirt that you couldn't tell if the headlights were on or off.  It worked well, except for the soapy wand/brush that is supposed to dispense soapy water.  It didn't dispense anything.  Dean put lots of 5 dollars in the slot and the car looked much better when we left.  It's $2/4 minutes.  Dean says what you need to take along a really firm brush to cut through the gunk.

Dean enjoyed his Father's Day brunch at Carl's near Walmart, and we later discovered that there is another one only 2 blocks from the park.  When we came out and saw the car, we were disappointed.  It is much better, but it looks like someone went over it with a muddy paintbrush.  At least we can see out of the windows now.

I love going to the Farmers' Markets in Alaska (actually, everywhere, but especially here).  Fairbanks FM is open on Wed., Sat., and Sunday (today).  Saturday is the big day, and today there were only about 10 booths open.  However, I did get to talk with a local photographer and some local residents about where to find moose.  We bought a mouse with locally-grown catnip for Sherlock and one for my daughter's kitten.

The Museum of the North at the U of A is open until 7:00.  I thought we'd have a lot of time to see everything there, but the time flew.  We got there around 1:30, and we closed it.  We paid for 2 admissions ($24), 3 movies ($10), and an audio-guide with 2 sets of earphones ($4), totaling $38.  An 8'9", 1250-pound brown bear that was killed in 1950 greeted us.  They say he can easily run 30 mph. (Picture 3) I'd skip renting the earphones next time.  The exhibits are so well signed that the audio-guide doesn't add much.

Next we met Blue Babe, (Picture 4) the steppe bison who died 36,000 years ago.  I was amazed at how much information they could determine.  He was killed by an American lion (an extinct species), and he was 8-9 years old.  It was really cold in the museum.  We watched 2 of the 3 movies.  One was about winter in Alaska, and the other was about the Northern lights.  Both were excellent.

The art gallery was very good, but paled when compared by the beautiful carvings in the gift shop.  Everything there is high quality, and they had a small moose carved from walrus ivory that fascinated me.  However, he was part of a set that included sled dogs.  The single pieces were between $250-$350.  When there's a heavy mist in the air at home (Southern California), our schools get calls from concerned parents who don't want their children playing outside at recess.  I bought a book at the gift shop called Recess at 20 Below.  Up here, kids go outside for recess if it isn't colder than -20?.  I also bought a porcupine puppet that I can use to reach kids in my daughter's classroom.  They had beautiful whale bone carvings, also.  Only First People's tribal members can kill a whale or walrus to produce these beautiful pieces.

We had been told by Alaska Fish & Game, a wildlife photographer, and numerous Fairbanksans that the place to see moose was about 30 miles out Chena Hot Springs Road, past the residences.  They said the best time was around 8:00.  The timing was perfect! 

We stopped at Sourdough Sam's, a mom & pop cafe, for a quick bite.  Our fish & chips (I substituted a salad for $2 upcharge) tasted fine.  Alaskans are so practical, as this cafe solves their fresh produce problem.  They had a late spring break-up.  A man told us that just 4 weeks ago, it was -14?, so there wasn't any produce at the Farmers' Market, and produce is expensive.  They have lots of greenhouses and will have good produce, more reasonably priced, soon.  The salad I had was tiny, and they used canned tomatoes with the lettuce.  The fish was served on a popsicle stick.  Odd, inexpensive at $26, and filling.

We saw several ponds that had no moose.  After MP 28, I saw a young bull moose munching away in a pond.  I've seen more than a dozen other moose, but never before a bull!  I yelled at Dean, "STOP!"  But, we'd been doing the speed limit of 55 mph, so we had to find a spot to turn around, and he was waiting for us still.  We watched him for a long time, as he dove his head under the water, came up with green stuff, and shook his head. (Pictures 5, 6, 7)  I'm sorry that it was so late in the day with dimming light, so the pictures came out odd.  It was still light enough that we could have read a newspaper without difficulty, so we never considered that it would affect picture quality.  The colors aren't even close to right.  A few miles down, we saw a moose cow.  I haven't enhanced or changed the color in any way, but she did not have the ghostly quality this picture implies (Picture 8).

Then came the grand finale!  I was looking at the water at each pond/river fork.  But at the North Fork of the Chena River, there is a gravel area beside the river, and I saw movement.  I was speechless--actually could not get a word out.  Trotting toward the bushes was a wolf!  I've only seen a wolf in the wild once before, and I got a much better look at this one.  We circled back, but of course, he was gone, so there's no picture.  But, what a thrill!

There was a price to pay--mosquito bites from putting down our windows, and something bit me on the forehead, leaving a huge lump.  However, I hope to go out earlier tonight, around 5:00, and try for better pictures.  Will the moose be out that early?  There's only one way to find out.

Staying at River's Edge RV Park.
 

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Whooo hooo what great Moose shots.  But I wanted a shot of that  mosquito bite on your forehead too! ;)
We both got a chuckle out of Dean's favorite restaurant being Carl's.  He does love his burgers doesn't he? 
 
Linda, you rascal you...seeing a bull moose before I did.  You get the award!!

BTW, we spent hours along that Chena Hot Springs road looking for moose; even driving into the dirt off roads area.  We did see a couple of females; but no bull moose that I was looking for.  Also, the restaurant at Chena Hot Springs is fabulous.  However we were there in late July, so all the produce was going strong.  We peeked into the green house and noticed all the very large tomatoes, lettace; everything was very big and tasted wonderful.

We've seen a couple of wolves over our trips; one in Denali.  Are you taking the interior bus tour?  I also did the river rafting trip with the water at 38 degrees, they suit you up to the max.

So fun ready of your trip.

Marsha~
 
Marsha/CA said:
Linda, you rascal you...seeing a bull moose before I did.  You get the award!!

We've seen a couple of wolves over our trips; one in Denali.  Are you taking the interior bus tour?

Marsha~

Yes, we're planning on taking the interior bus tour twice.  Denali and its animals are the highlight of our trip.  So, we're really looking forward to it.  We came early, reversing the direction so we could get to Denali before the hot weather hit--and we're in the 90's!  Oh, well, we'll try to see what's there.  Big smoke in the sky in the direction of Denali.  I must listen to the news tonight.  I hope wherever it is, they got the fire out without any injuries to any living thing.  But, please, not Denali....... 

I bought heavy duty mosquito stuff today, and we'll try to get some more peeks at moose, and maybe pictures tomorrow at around 5:00, when there is more light than there was last night.  If we can get a really good picture, I'll mat it, frame it, hang it on my office wall, and even send one to you!  I was looking at moose things all day today--carvings, earrings, figurines.  I feel like I want a momento--not for being first, just for getting to see a bull moose in the wild.
 
Betty Brewer said:
Whooo hooo what great Moose shots.  But I wanted a shot of that  mosquito bite on your forehead too! ;)
We both got a chuckle out of Dean's favorite restaurant being Carl's.  He does love his burgers doesn't he?
The mosquitoes' bites weren't that bad.  This one is like a mosquito on steroids, but it's just a raised hill over a wide area, so I don't think it would make an impressive shot.  Yes, he loves burgers.  We have seen lots of Thai restaurants, and I've wished you guys or Russ were with us (of course, primarily for your company), but also because I enjoy sharing eating experiences, and Dean is all meat and potatoes.
 
June 17 Day 31 Fairbanks, Alaska

Yippee!  We stayed home this morning, and I did house chores while Dean worked on electronics.  Success!  Dean talked with Real Time Communications, made some adjustments, and we now have our satellite Internet.  It's slow, but it's there.  Since Motosat is out of business, we no longer have their technical advice on how to adjust the bird-on-a-wire since we changed the settings for Internet.  Dean did some postings hoping for help from other Motosat users.  We'd love to have Direct TV, but if we can't get it, we need to suspend our service so we don't spent the monthly fees unnecessarily.

Then we took care of business, including notifying the insurance company of the damage from our dog encounter. 

We thought that on this 90?+ day, the Ice Museum downtown was a good destination.  It's in a 1930's era theatre, and it's not beautiful, but the ice carvings in it are very nice.  Their ice comes from one special lake and is crystal clear.  They use colored lights as accents.  The prospector (picture 1) is pouring the water out of the pan.  Many of the exhibits were behind glass.  There was one room you could go into.  There was an ice log cabin in it with a dining table and benches that you could sit on, and it was really cold in there.  There was a sleigh (Picture 2).  Then we saw an interesting film about Fairbanks and particularly about the process of getting the ice.  They have sold their clear ice to places as far away as South America.  There is an international competition here every March.  The cashier gave us pins from the competition and a free booklet with all the entries from last year.  Then a Chinese ice sculptor crafted a pretty flower in less than 5 minutes. (Picture 3)  Admission was $11 each. (Picture 3)

We went looking for mosquito repellant and anti-itch meds.  I had heard a TV ad for Tri-calm, but either stores don't carry it or it is sold out.  Afterbite is sold out at Walmart, and is reputed to be the best by the people who live here. We did find a clip-on repellent finally at Sportsmen's Warehouse, and I'm going to try it on my moosehunt tomorrow night.  It's supposed to provide 225 sq. feet of repellancy around us.  I hope so.

We had a coupon for $15 off dinner at The Cookie Jar in the Northern Lights book.  I had stroganoff; Dean had lasagna.  Both were just OK.  The salad had fresh, not canned, tomatoes.  Whoopee!  We didn't have to cook, and that was neat. 

We came back to the park, and Dean spent hours re-securing our refrigerator.  He thinks there has to be a better way, and I'm sure he'll engineer it.

Staying at River's Edge RV Park.
 

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Neat ice carvings!  Do you have mosquito net hats?  They protect the head, face, and neck.

ArdraF
 
Linda, I just love reading your posts! Hard to imagine that it's in the 90s in Fairbanks, after being -14 just a month ago. I am SOOOOOOOO jealous of your successful moose-hunting! And seeing a wolf....wow! You lucky girl you!  Don and I have seen two smallish cows standing at the edge of the road a few days ago, but they turned and stepped into the trees as soon as several cars slowed down for them. We're sure seen endless signs cautioning us to beware of moose, but no actual proof that they are even here!

You may recall that I decided we would skip Fairbanks, and skip Denali also because of the unappetizing prospect of that long bus ride inside the park....you are making me wonder if I made a horrible decision. I guess we won't know until after we've spent 3-4 days camping along the Denali Highway between Paxson and Cantwell, where we think we'll see lots of wild critters. 
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Linda, I just love reading your posts! Hard to imagine that it's in the 90s in Fairbanks, after being -14 just a month ago. I am SOOOOOOOO jealous of your successful moose-hunting! And seeing a wolf....wow! You lucky girl you!  Don and I have seen two smallish cows standing at the edge of the road a few days ago, but they turned and stepped into the trees as soon as several cars slowed down for them. We're sure seen endless signs cautioning us to beware of moose, but no actual proof that they are even here!

You may recall that I decided we would skip Fairbanks, and skip Denali also because of the unappetizing prospect of that long bus ride inside the park....you are making me wonder if I made a horrible decision. I guess we won't know until after we've spent 3-4 days camping along the Denali Highway between Paxson and Cantwell, where we think we'll see lots of wild critters.

Mutual Admiration Society--I love your posts.  We have seen moose, but we haven't had a good look at a bear yet.  I think the moose signs are just to breathe hope into the tourists.  However, in 2009, at one Superstore, we talked with a cashier who used to drive an 18-wheeler. We had tears rolling down our cheeks as she described hitting a moose--now think about how heavy and strong an 18-wheeler is.  She said that it dented her front end so badly that it had to be towed, and she had moose poop all over the windshield.  In fact, she was still finding moose scat and cleaning it from her truck a year later.  So, when we see those signs, especially if it's close to dusk or dawn, I ask Dean to slow down.  If it did that much damage to a big semi, I don't want to find out what it would do to our RV.  Hitting that dog at speed did quite a job on our front, and he was not even close to the 840-1500 pounds on average a bull moose weighs.  So, take those signs seriously.

We've learned that different sites attract different people, but Denali NP is our #1 don't miss spot on our whole trip. We saw so much wildlife on that bus trip, and the guide was so sharp at spotting them, that we're planning on doing that bus trip twice.  I'll be interested in hearing about Paxson and Cantwell because we haven't been there.  I hope you see a lot of wildlife there, too.  Happy trails!
 
June 18 Day 32 Fairbanks, Alaska

Dean earned his Carl's Jr. brunch today!  Armed with clip-on mosquito repellent, spray mosquito repellent, after-bite antiseptic anti-itch cream, long lens, medium lens, short lens, camera, tripod, and binoculars, we finally started out for Creamers' Field Waterfowl Migratory Refuge.  This was originally a dairy farm that several different bird species chose for their nesting.  It was purchased by Alaska in order to protect the birds.

In 2009, we saw hundreds of sandhill cranes feeding at the field, so we expected to see the field blanketed with birds and saw none.  Horrors!  Not a bird of any kind in sight!  I called them 2 days ago to ask about mosquitoes, and never thought to ask about the birds.  We talked with a lady who said she had just hiked the 1.5 mile trail and back and had found no birds, but her kids had enjoyed chasing butterflies.  She said there were birds by another parking lot, so we drove back near the street. All was good. There were about 30 Canadian geese and 20 sandhill cranes happily feeding near the signage.  They shared space well (if only nations of the world could do as well), and there were a few loners. (Pictures 1,2,3)  They kept their heads down, gobbling heartily, so Dean had to be quick on the trigger to get a picture with the face showing above the grass.  I am concerned about the huge decrease in numbers of cranes, and I'll call Creamers' tomorrow.
As we watched the birds in 80?+ weather with a little breeze blowing, I thought God couldn't engineer more perfect weather.  We realize we've been lucky.

Heartened by our success, we took off on a moosehunt.  We hoped that we'd have good lighting for pictures by leaving 5 hours earlier than last time.  The downside is that moose are supposed to be napping at this time.  Two days ago we found two great moose by Mile 32 of Chena Hot Springs Road.  I drove, and drove, and drove some more--beyond Mile 45!  I was looking so hard that if Dean hadn't yelped, I would have hit a guardrail.  No moose!  I told Dean that we'd done all we could do, and we'd see some in Denali. 

About 5 miles into the return trip, I glimpsed a moose standing in a creek. I made a quick U-turn, and she was so hidden by the dark shadows that we missed her on our first return pass.  It seems like every time we see a moose, it has its rear end facing us.  Wouldn't you think 50% of the time they'd be looking our way?  And, why are they always in the shadows?  Dean got out of the car and shot pictures from different places, trying to get a decent shot. (Pictures 4, 5)

About 2 miles later, Dean spotted another one, also in the shadows of the forest. (Picture 6)  Dean was tromping through the grass, camera pointed into the shade, when a tour van saw him and stopped--right on the highway.  I'd gone to a turnout, and Dean had walked back to the photo spot.  People poured out of the van, quickly took their pictures while Dean was still trying for the perfect photo, and were heading back to their van when they spotted another moose getting ready to cross the road.

Dean hustled back to the car through the grass on the sloping embankment, taking pictures of the moose as he crossed the road.  Very impressive coordination!  We drove down to the next creek when we found that moose, rear pointed at us, of course.  The glare off the water made it difficult to get the picture he wanted, but I liked this one.  (Picture 7)

We headed back toward the RV park, stopping at the Regal Cinema 16 to see if the new Superman movie, which Dean wanted to see, was showing soon.  It was screening in just 20 minutes--perfect timing!  Dean enjoyed it, a nice way to celebrate a wonderful day.  Dinner was popcorn and coke--that's not something I'll share with our doctors.

Staying at River's Edge RV Park.
 

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Linda, I'll bet you anything that the hordes of sandhill cranes knew the unusually hot weather was arriving, and are migrating at a slightly different time this year...leaving you with less to see! I know for a fact that there has NOT been any noticeable decrease in the number of sandhill cranes migrating through Colorado in recent years...but they do respond to weather patterns. You guys are our inspiration, daring to go on your bird hunts and moose hunts armed with tons of insect repellent etc. Not sure I will be so brave!
 
Love love love your blog and photos.  I am officially envious and may even start planning a return  trip to Alaska!
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
You guys are our inspiration, daring to go on your bird hunts and moose hunts armed with tons of insect repellent etc. Not sure I will be so brave!

We have both been bitten, but that was before.  Now that we have all the "goodies", we haven't seen mosquitoes.  Hope it stays that way.  I'll let you know what, if anything, is effective.
 
Betty Brewer said:
Love love love your blog and photos.  I am officially envious and may even start planning a return  trip to Alaska!

Thanks.  There's no place like Alaska, especially the magnificent wildlife and crusty old people who speak their minds.  The one thing I like about Carl's is that the table are so close to each other that it facilitates conversations.  I learn a lot from locals, and other vacationers tell us of their experiences, and that is helpful, too.  Yesterday at Carl's, we met a couple from Ohio.  They had just one day in Fairbanks, and I told them what  our experiences had been at the Ice Hotel, Ice Museum, Creamers' Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, North Pole, Museum of the North, etc., because they didn't know what they wanted to do in the one day they had here.  As they were leaving, a Fairbanksan man told them, "She doesn't know anything.  She's full of baloney."  Then he proceeded to tell how awesome North Pole was in detail, and he was really rude.  I had told her that everyone has different things they like, and for us wildlife was a favorite.  I thought I had been very factual with distances, admission prices, etc.  Alaskans do not beat around the bush; they tell it like it is.  After I got over my shock, I chalked it up to one more unique Alaskan experience.
 
It's really hard to see wildlife with an untrained eye unless they're right next to (or on) the road.  I once asked a tracker in Africa how he could see so many animals when we couldn't.  He told us to always look for things horizontal because nature, such as trees, grow vertically and animals backs usually are horizontal to the ground.  That really helped me and maybe it will help you too.

ArdraF
 
ArdraF said:
It's really hard to see wildlife with an untrained eye unless they're right next to (or on) the road.  I once asked a tracker in Africa how he could see so many animals when we couldn't.  He told us to always look for things horizontal because nature, such as trees, grow vertically and animals backs usually are horizontal to the ground.  That really helped me and maybe it will help you too.

ArdraF

Thanks for the tip.  We'll put it to good use.  Wait until you see what we found today!  He got so close I thought he was going to let Dean scratch him behind his ear.
 
June 19 Day 33 Healy, Alaska (Denali Nat'l Park)

We all expected this to be a dull travel day (Picture 1).  It was anything but!

First, we went to Fred Meyer's to gas both vehicles.  It took us over an hour!  We had pump troubles, re-locating to another pump, the hose not reaching the car, another motorist blocking us by pulling into the pump from the other direction, and tight turns (Dean came very close to a pole and had to keep getting out to make sure he was going to clear it).

Roads today were good.  They flag microscopic bumps, and we're starting to slow down less when we see their flags, something we'll pay for one of these times.  Kudos to Alaska's Highway Department!  We ran the AC because it was hot, and we enjoyed the comfort of the cool air.

At Mile 309 Parks Highway, we stopped at Monderosa, touted to be the "Home of the Best Burger in Alaska," and kind of a dive.  My hamburger-loving husband critiqued it as being excellent.  I'm not into either burgers or fries, but I usually order any house's specialty, and I thought both were outstanding.  The fries were crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and they must have a ton of calories and cholesterol-anything that good always does.  The other couple split one burger and fries, but Dean wanted the whole thing, so I split mine in half and brought it home for another meal.  However, the highlight was listening to the opinions and stories of the other couple and the waitress/chef.  I only asked a question every now and then to keep them talking about life up here.  Typical of hard-working Alaskans, this couple in their mid-70's who live in Anchorage were on their annual trek to sell to gift shops throughout Alaska.  They represent products from 40 different companies.  All 3 people were very strong in their opinions.  The waitress/chef told us that education out here is anemic.  They have a combo K/1/2/3 class with 25 students and no aide.  She says that when the kids get to high school, they are so far behind that the teachers are frustrated.  Duh!  Another nugget we learned is that the amount of oil flowing through pipeline is decreasing significantly, making for less tax revenue.  The Alaskan government has decreased the taxes on the oil companies, hoping they will use that money for more exploration.  They need to have a certain amount of flow to keep the pipeline running.  Otherwise, they will have to revert to trucking it.  I thought this was our excitement for the day, and I was very happy. 

We didn't get into Healy until 5:00, despite starting at 11:00.  6 hours to drive 111 miles is a new record for slow.  We speedily hooked up so we could get to the Wilderness Access Center (open until 7) and get our tickets for the bus tours on Friday and Saturday.  Tours range from 4.5-12 hours.  We opted for the 11-hour tour to Wonder Lake.  4 bus passes were just under $200. 

We drove the part of the park road that is open to the public, the first 15 miles.  I detected movement in the brush, and I stopped about 5 car-lengths away from a moose--a bull moose!  I've been told that it's important to give wild animals their space, and that's why I left that distance.  I was so mad when two other cars, alerted by my flashing lights, pulled in front of me, between me and the moose.  How rude!  The moose passed by them, and he walked toward our car, so close that I thought he might stick his head in the car window.  Sometimes doing the right thing pays off.  These pictures were not taken with a long lens.  We were that close! (Pictures 2, 3, 4, and 5)  I couldn't print some of the pictures because we were actually too close to him.

On the way home, we stopped at the local market for batteries.  It was crowded, and everyone was trying to buy mosquito products.  Of course, they were sold out.  If you're headed this way, pay heed.  Load up with mosquito repellent and a mosquito net hat.  I have a painful bite on my lower jaw, and I must have 40 mosquito bites, even between my toes.  I got all these bites either in the RV, in the car, or in transit between the two.  I hadn't put on repellent because I wasn't going to have a prolonged period outside.  Mistake!  I bet if you brought in bottles of repellent, you could sell them up here for $50.  A late snow melt (there's a little snow on the ground here still in shady spots) and record high temperatures combined to make the perfect storm of mosquitoes, also record numbers.  One man talked of looking down at his arm, finding it covered with mosquitos, and wiping them off in a sheet.

Tomorrow, we are prepping for our bus trips.  We are bringing our own lunch, water, and foregoing the extra $110 per person the tan bus charges for lunch, drink, and a tour guide.  When we were here in 2009, the bus driver narrated, and he was very good.  There is a one-day delay in getting bus tour tickets because of demand.  If you want to go on the day after you arrive, buy ahead of time.

Staying at Denali RV Park--$165.64/4 nights, FHU, 30 amps, good WiFi, Cable TV, best place to stay with hookups in Denali


 

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  Nice shots of the bull moose, and the mosquito products are not to be found in Eagle River.We found some at Walgreens yesterday, Walmart and Fred Myers was sold out. So far we have spent about $100.00 on repellant.
 
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