Alaska with the Stocks 2013

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Henry Wishard said:
  Nice shots of the bull moose, and the mosquito products are not to be found in Eagle River.We found some at Walgreens yesterday, Walmart and Fred Myers was sold out. So far we have spent about $100.00 on repellant.

I think it's a matter of timing.  We need to find out when shipments are coming in.  The game warden in Denali went into Fairbanks for the specific purpose of picking up 100% Deet, and she listed a bunch of places she tried.  She didn't even find any mosquito repellent at all.  We found some in Fred Meyer's the day after she was there.  We saw some advertised at a hardware store, but they were closed.
 
June 20 Day 34 Healy, Alaska (Denali Nat'l Park)

We stayed in the RV this morning, got 100% rid of mosquitoes inside, napped, read, sprayed 2 outfits with a clothing mosquito repellent (supposed to last through 6 washings), started prepping for tomorrow's bus trip into the park, and tried to take care of business matters.

We made reservations at the Alpenglow, a wonderful restaurant set atop a cliff.  Driving up to it on a windy, gravel road was fun because they had humorous signs, like Mosquito Crossing with a mosquito carrying away a man like a bald eagle does a fish.  The service and food was wonderful.  We used a Northern Lights Coupon, so my $28 scallop dinner was free and we only paid for Dean's $32 steak.

We drove back into Denali and once again spotted a moose.  I don't know whether she's shedding her winter fur or has a bad case of eczema, but she did enjoy munching leaves.

Early to bed so we can get up at 4:45.

Staying at Denali RV Park--$165.64/4 nights, FHU, 30 amps, good WiFi, Cable TV, best place to stay with hookups in Denali
 

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Hi Lida & Dean,
    Did you know that the mosquito is the state bird of Alaska? Ha, ha! I use Skin So Soft, an Avon product, as an insect repellent. It works great! I even used it on my horse to repell flies. I used a 50/50 mixture of Skin So Soft and water and sprayed it all over him. You might want to try it. It is a good alternative to insecticides.
    Thanks again for your well written trip postings and super photos. I am so enjoying your trip!
                                                                                Happy Trails,
                                                                                            Bonnie
 
Bonnie Lawrie said:
Hi Lida & Dean,
    Did you know that the mosquito is the state bird of Alaska? Ha, ha! I use Skin So Soft, an Avon product, as an insect repellent. It works great! I even used it on my horse to repell flies. I used a 50/50 mixture of Skin So Soft and water and sprayed it all over him. You might want to try it. It is a good alternative to insecticides.
    Thanks again for your well written trip postings and super photos. I am so enjoying your trip!
                                                                                Happy Trails,
                                                                                            Bonnie

Thanks, Bonnie.  I'd heard about Skin So Soft from you and two others, but I can't find an Avon lady.  I went to their website a couple of years ago, put in my zip code, and they were supposed to hear from someone.  I never heard from anyone.  I'm going to try again.
 
Hi!  June 21 & 22, our trips through Denali will be posted as soon as I can get through editing Dean's 242 photos of Denali.  It was wonderful, and we saw caribou, ptarmigan, hoary marmot, bears, lots of Dall sheep, and more.  The bull moose seem to be having a convention; we have seen so many, each having a better rack than the one before.  We've been getting up at 4:45 to get to the Wilderness Access Center by 6:45 for the 7:15 bus.  Both days we had the two front seats because we were first in line.  We didn't see any animals in the first 30 miles, and we were glad that we went the whole 11-hour, 85 miles one way trip.  But, we're exhausted at the end of the day.  Tomorrow we are going out to Cantwell and driving the Old Denali Road, looking for more wildlife.  So I can't burn the midnight oil.  I will get it done, but that many photos will take me several days to go through.
 
June 23 Day 37 Healy, Alaska (Denali Nat'l Park)

We knew that others thought highly of the Cantwell and Paxton area, so we wanted to see the wildlife there.  We stopped at Creekside Cafe, a bakery recommended to us, and picked up 2 lunches.  We topped off the gas tanks in Cantwell so we could go as far as we wanted.

We drove 35 miles south to the Old Denali Road, which goes from Cantwell to Paxton.  The road is all gravel, except for one mile, at least as far as we went (Mile 99).  It has some rugged spots and large rocks to dodge, but it also has some smoother parts.  The posted speed limit is 50 mph (You have to have a Gumby spine and be crazy to go that fast on a gravel road.)  The maximum weight is 9 tons.  I figured the bumps were worth it if I could see lots of bears and moose.  I was amazed at how many cars and motorcycles we saw.  Some passed us going the opposite direction at 50 mph, as I prayed they didn't kick up a rock and break our windshield.  Others going our direction also passed us, kicking up a tremendous dust cloud.

We heard from Alaskans that you could drive with windows open, and no mosquitoes would enter, if you created sufficient breeze because they hate wind.  It was a beautiful day (high of 79?), and there were many mosquitoes.  We drove at or 20-25 mph, and no mosquitoes came in, and those that were in, left. 

We drove about 40 miles, and we saw one tiny duck.  By the time Dean got his camera set up, the duck had flown to the next pond.  We followed.  Dean got out of the car again, and the duck flew on to the next pond.  We pursued.  Dean got out of the car again....and he flew away.  I carried the camera with the lens attached, cradled in my arms, so we'd be ready next time.  On the way back, we saw 6 more tiny ducks on the other side of a large pond (Picture 1 taken with Dean's big lens with an extender). 

When we came to smooth asphalt, I was ready to put away the weighty camera, when I saw a moose.  Dean stopped on a dime, drove right to the opening in the bushes across from her, and the race was on.  I don't think she was aware of us because we were on the opposite side of a wide river on a cliff.  When I spotted her, she was about 50 yards from the far shore, and a long way from our shore.  It was like she heard a dinner bell, and she ran through the water to the bushes as Dean ran with the camera to our cliff edge.  She won, getting to the bushes before we got the picture.  But at least we both saw her.

I was told by a neighboring RVer that he had heard that we'd see as much wildlife today as we did at Denali.  Not even close, less than 10%.

Do you know what Alaskan Tennis is?  It's when you take those tennis-racket shaped fly/mosquito zappers and swish them through the air as you walk.  I actually saw a woman doing that in our RV park.  Today, Dean and I played...are you ready for this?.....Duck, Duck, Moose.  I get a bit giddy when I am unable to accomplish a goal...like seeing wild animals.

Staying at Denali RV Park--$165.64/4 nights, FHU, 30 amps, good WiFi, Cable TV, best place to stay with hookups in Denali

Moving to Anchorage Golden Nugget tomorrow--maybe we'll get to meet Henry!
 

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Hey, Linda, I'm ready to throw rotten tomatoes at  people who said we'd see more wildlife on the Old Denali Highway (or at least as much wildlife!) as we'd ever see in Denali NP!  Don and I saw zippo wildlife...and I do mean zippo! Two big white trumpeter swans on one pond toward the Cantwell end of the dreadful road. One grayling landed by a flyfisherman. Maybe a half-dozen regular old mallards floating on very distant lakes. One loon on a lake.

But MAN those mosquitoes were really WILD! Now that is true wildlife....they're here at Trapper Creek too, but not in the numbers that we had them along the Denali Highway.  Unbelievable!

The ONLY thing that made our great adventure on boondocking on the Old  Denali Highway worthwhile was leaving early this morning and seeing views of Denali itself, in all its splendor, so much along that road toward the Cantwell end...I'm in the process of writing my daily journal right now and will post it asap.
 
June 24 Day 38 Anchorage, AK (Two days, one posting, Dean's been using the computer for fix things and I didn't want to ask for it)

We enjoyed the drive through the pretty Mat-Su Valley to Anchorage.  We stopped at several Denali viewpoints that are closer to the mountain than we were at the national park, 75 miles from it.  However, after parking the coach and walking the trail to the viewpoints, we see that it is shrouded in clouds today.  During the summer, you only have a 20% chance of seeing it clearly, so we feel blessed that on both our bus tour days we could see it quite clearly, with no clouds.

We got into the park at 5:45.  I don't remember many of the RV parks we've been to, but I did remember the "uniqueness" of this one.  Last time, the GPS got us lost.  We ended up at Elmendorf Air Force Base.  The lady sentry told us we had to turn around where we were.  Dean said the area was too small.  She assured him that he could.  Well, we couldn't.  Dean blocked traffic entering and exiting the base while he unhooked the toad, maneuvered the RV, and then re-attached it. 

We called the RVpark for directions.  The lady had us driving in circles for 15 minutes, as I relayed her directions.  Dean became frustrated, but he was ready to shoot the messenger, not the dingbat whose directions I was relaying.  I gave him the phone so he could listen to her himself.  In our conversation, I had learned that they were across the street from Costco.  So, I saw a nice-looking passerby, had Dean stop the coach, and asked for directions to Costco.  He didn't know, but the second time we stopped, we found someone who did, and we managed to get to the park.

This time I had everything under control.  I Mapquested directions before we left Denali.  I made an on-line reservation and followed up with a phone call to verify.  However, I was not at all surprised when Dean told me that when he went in the office they didn't have our reservation.  Thank goodness they weren't full!  They have kept their reputation as a loony park, but they are nice people.  As we pulled into our 2 spaces (the spaces are short, and Dean paid a $4 surcharge to buy the second space), Dean tried to line up the sewer and couldn't find it.  He got out and searched.  Meanwhile, two neighbors came over and commiserated with him about their problems getting hooked up and positioning.  He found a sewer connection in the second space, but it was too far away for our hose (which is long) to reach.  Dean walked up to the office, and the intelligent, nice, young lady walked down and told him to enter from the opposite direction that they had marked on the park map.  Dean hooked up the Cable TV connection.  No reception.  Back up to the office.  They have the connection, but they don't subscribe. Surprised?  No!

We were trying to get set up quickly because we wanted to meet RVForumers Henry and Margaret.  Dean wanted to take a shower after he dumped tanks (at Denali the sewer was by our front tire).  It was 8:00 before we made it over there.  We hadn't eaten for 8 hours, but we really wanted to talk with them.  They were leaving early tomorrow morning, so it was now or never.  We decided to share where we'll be next so others can give us helpful info.  I should have thought of that a long time ago.  We really enjoyed meeting them, and we hope to cross paths again.  Hopefully, we'll be able to spend more time.  I'd stutter step a day or two to be able to listen to more of their stories.  Out of all the states, including my own, Texans are my favorite people.

By 9:00, Henry had been standing on his gouty toe for an hour and my stomach was rumbling, so we left for Vallarta's, a favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurant we discovered in '09.  We have a coupon from Northern Lights for buy one dinner/get $8 off the second dinner, but we'd eat here even if we didn't have a coupon.  No ambience, great food.  The nice owner saw us pull up and came out to the car to tell us he closes an hour early on Sunday and Monday (8:30).  So, we'll go back another time.

Fortunately, we had our Northern Lights coupon book with us.  We found another Mexican restaurant, Pancho's Villa.  When we drove up, we couldn't figure out where the front of the building was, and we passed it up.  We figured it out only because there was junk stored on the backside.  The outside was large, bizarre, had no windows.  It was made of painted bricks, and it had two tiers of steps surrounding the whole place.  We tried entering one door that was painted just like the bricks, but it was padlocked on the side.  We found the next door would open, and it took us into the kitchen/rear dining area.  When we left, we left through the front door (the back door was now locked), but we had quite a walk to the car.  The decor was nice.  The dinner was great--very delicious--the best relleno and tamale I've had in many years.  The combo was large, but only $11.95 plus $1.95 for the second (with our $10 NL coupon), our cheapest meal of the trip, as well as our best.  We only ate half, so we'll have it for another meal, too.  I splurged on flan, my second favorite dessert.  It was as bad as the dinner was good.  We have another coupon, so it's likely we'll be back.  I 
knew I was right in eating in at the beginning of the trip and saving our food dollars for Anchorage and Homer.  So far, so good!

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42--2 spaces (upcharge of $4, but the second one doesn't have a sewer connection), FHU, slow WiFi, TV from the air that we can't seem to get--probably us, not them, close spaces, conveniently located, no mosquitoes!!

June 25 Day 39 Anchorage, AK

Today was dedicated to getting our lives back in order.  Our satellite still isn't receiving and our bird-on-a-wire for Direct TV needs for the satellite to work and to be readjusted to a new setting, and we are trying to find out what that setting is.  If we can't get this stuff working, we will stop the monthly service charges on all of it, which will save significant money.  Last time, we didn't have it, and I rather enjoyed going into the libraries and cafes to try to find internet.  The coach needs a thorough cleaning, inside and out.  Washing and shopping need to be done.

We worked all morning.  At 12:30, we set off for brunch.  I have lots of buy one lunch/get a lunch or dinner free coupons in my Northern Lights coupon book, and they have on the back of the coupon descriptions of about 20 items from their menu.  Dean has been working so hard problem-solving, I let him pick, but I agreed with him. 

On our way to Rumrunners, we passed The Lucky Wishbone, a favorite restaurant from our last visit that is on our Must Visit List.  We enjoyed talking of our memories as we drove to downtown, where both Rumrunners and the Visitors' Center were located.  We found Rumrunners address, and the storefront was vacant!  I always look up restaurants on Trip Advisor before we go, but my apps are all frozen and I can't use them--another problem Dean will try to solve.  If I had looked it up, I would have found the first item there said it was closed.  Dean had been using the computer to solve our other electronic problems, and when we decided to go to lunch, I was so hungry that I skipped looking it up.  I won't do that again.

So, back to The Lucky Wishbone we went.  The Lucky Wishbone was founded in 1955 by George & Peggy Brown.  He was a bush pilot who flew out of the tiny Anchorage Airport, right across the street.  They started with "Fresh Air Pan Fried Chicken" and milkshakes.  They now are famous for their onion rings, homemade chili, extra lean ground beef, strawberry shortcake with homemade old fashioned buttermilk biscuits, corn muffins, malts, and sundaes with 10 different toppings.  When we were here in '09, Peggy had passed away, but we got to talk with George, who was 87 years old.  He was bussing tables, carrying a large, heavy tub of dirty dishes, serving customers ice water, and chatting with other patrons.  This restaurant seats well over 100 people.  At age 87, he still flew his airplane in his spare time!  He has rules.  You can't come in and order to-go.  You must go through the drive-through.  No one waits very long because everyone hustles, even George.  The American work ethic leading to success worked quite well for him.  He won a place in my heart.

This time, the first thing I did when I got to Anchorage, was to call TLW and find out that George was still alive.  So, I was disappointed when we came in today and found that George had left just 5 minutes before.  He is at the restaurant every day for hours, and sometimes he comes in twice a day.  Oh, well, the good food was still there, and maybe we can come back in again and see him while we are here.

The restaurant is laid out efficiently, but comfortably.  The tables are lined up in a row, with menus in a holder at each table.  The couple at the next table were "snowbirds", have lived in Alaska since 1966 (he moved from Fullerton, CA, our neighbor) and birth (she).  They are our age, so they live in Wasilla (Home of Sarah Palin) in the summer, and they now spend winters in Yuma and Hawaii.  I love listening to Alaskans!  When they are gone in the winter, they have the house wired to notify them if there is a burglar, temperature drop, or increase in humidity (indicating a water leak).  Neighbors also check on it.  Neither moose nor bear are their biggest problem--pack rats are.  They chew up the hoses on his truck and make their nests in the engine area.  Alaskans are problem solvers.  After trying several methods to keep them out unsuccessfully, he now places a salt lick by the rear tire of the truck.  He figured out that they wanted the salt on the hoses in his truck.  They haven't destroyed anything or made any nests in his truck since he started doing this.

They also told us that global warming is here.  They have had more days over 70? this year already than they normally have in 3 years.  In a normal year, 300,000 acres burn.  Right now, over 500,000 are on fire, and it is just June.  They really rely on their rain.  Winds dry out trees very quickly, and with the lightning striking, they ignite immediately, with wind blowing the embers into dense undergrowth.  Almost all of their fires are caused by lightning.  They let them burn unless there are homes or people endangered, thereby renewing the forest.

The Anchorage Visitors Center is a busy log cabin in downtown.  Street parking is metered, and we bought an hour's worth.  We got lots of good tips.  I really want to see beluga whales, so we picked up tide charts (they come in chasing the fish at high tide), information on what's going on, etc.

Then I asked what had happened to Rumrunners.  The 3 ladies exchanged meaningful looks with slight smiles.  They are supposed to promote tourism, not discuss negative aspects of the city, so I had to play detective and ask direct questions.  It seems that it is very, very difficult to lose a liquor license in Alaska, but they did it, AND they were closed down by the city.  They not only served to minors, but repeatedly broke every liquor law on the books.  Police were frequently called to keep order.  But the final straw was "all of the shootings."  And, of about a dozen choices, this is the place we chose to have lunch!  So much for our choosing.

There was an Audubon-led walk at Potters Marsh that I would have like to go on, but Dean wanted to go see a movie, "Monsters University," at Regal 16.  While I enjoy some kids' films, like "Ice Age", this one didn't entertain me.  I'd give it a "D"; Dean would give it a "B."  The popcorn (Tuesdays $2) was our dinner.

We came back home, and Dean worked on my phone until 1:30.  He has restored 7 of the 13 apps.  WiFi here is really slow.

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42--2 spaces (upcharge of $4, but the second one doesn't have a sewer connection), FHU, slow WiFi, TV from the air that we can't seem to get--probably us, not them, close spaces, conveniently located, no mosquitoes!!

Headed to Homer, Sodoltna, and Seward
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Hey, Linda, I'm ready to throw rotten tomatoes at  people who said we'd see more wildlife on the Old Denali Highway (or at least as much wildlife!) as we'd ever see in Denali NP! 

We heard the same from several people, and you saw 5 times as much wildlife as we did.  It was to the point of me appreciating it when a butterfly came by!
 
June 26 Day 40 Anchorage, AK

Dean worked all morning on our satellite and electronic problems--nothing that will interfere with continuing our trip.  In 2009, we spent many days working on getting our satellite to connect.  Prior to this trip, Real Time Communications assured Dean they would give him new coordinates in Alaska and his satellite would work.  My premise this time is that in Anchorage we have the best possible situation, and if we can't get it working, shut down the service for the duration of our trip until we get into the Lower 48, save the money, and forget about it.  We'll spend as much time as he wants (he doesn't ever give up!), but when all avenues are exhausted, we're done this time. 

We also are playing musical computers.  This computer won't connect to the park's WiFi, and the other computer is awaiting our mail on Monday so we can load Microsoft Word onto it.  I can't type my log on the new one until then.  So, I type on this one, download it and the pictures onto a memory stick, put that into the new one, where we can then post it to the RVForum.

We hadn't eaten breakfast, so at 1:00, we went to Spenard's Roadhouse for hamburgers.  They have a wide variety of food, and it all sounded delicious.  I had a $10 off coupon from my Northern Lights coupon book.  The food is all fresh, not genetically modified, and as much as possible, locally grown.  My hamburger had bacon jam on it, which was full of flavor, had no fatty taste, and was absolutely delicious (definitely not low calorie).  It also had a cheese with wonderful flavor, grilled apples, and arugula.  I'm definitely not a hamburger lover, but this one was delicious.  It came with sweet potato tater tots (Dean's choice) that made him very happy, soup, or salad (my choice).  The waiter suggested the lemon basil vinegarette dressing, which was light and refreshing.  The waiter was wonderful, and I'd go back here again.

We needed to lay in supplies, so we shopped at Costco, right across the street from this conveniently located park. And then, we drove through a wonderful automatic car wash right across the street from our RV park.  The basic car wash is $8, which we would usually choose. But our car was in such terrible shape, I read to Dean the new feature of each wash as the price went up, and he said, "Oh, yes, that would be good."  We ended up with the most expensive wash at $14.  I have been very careful upon entering the car so I don't get dirt all over my clothes, and yet I still have 2 outfits with dirt stains.  The car is sparkling clean now!  Well, at least on the outside.  I noticed smudges on the windows, which I have decided are squished mosquitoes, so I will have to tackle that, and there is still dust all over the console, dash--actually everywhere.  I have a half-off coupon at the Jeep dealer for a hand wash inside and out, and it will cost only $15 plus tip, but I'm saving that for our stop back through here in mid-July.

I only have a few pages left in Michener's Alaska, and I am sorry to see it end.  It's 868 pages long, and usually I would feel, "Mission Accomplished."  But, I really look forward to reading it whenever I have a block of time.  It's not a book you would want to read in 5 minutes spurts.  It's just too hard to put down.  What a wonderful book!  A must read for anyone coming up here.  I see things daily that relate to what I read in the book.

The weather couldn't be more perfect.  80? with a breeze.  Keep it coming!

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42--2 spaces (upcharge of $4, but the second one doesn't have a sewer connection), FHU, slo-o-o-o-o-o-w WiFi, TV from the air that we can't seem to get--probably us, not them-- close spaces (I hear what our neighbors are saying inside their trailer), conveniently located, no mosquitoes!!
 
June 27 Day 41 Anchorage, AK

Dean says he will work on our satellite problems one more morning, and he has just one more person to contact before he gives up.  He sent an e-mail to someone, and then we went to the Anchorage Zoo.  We had visited it in '09, and we enjoyed it.  It's a community zoo--you can't compare it with the big zoos--but if you go only expecting to see Alaskan animals and a very few bonus animals, you will have a good time.  We had a Northern Lights Buy One/Get One Free coupon, so admission for the 2 seniors was $8.  We were greeted by one of my favorite birds, a robin (Picture 1).  We don't get robins in SoCal, and I look forward to seeing them when we travel.  He's my first on this trip.

I got to see my lynx--in fact, he came over and said hello to me.  I got to see the red foxes (and smell them, too--phew!  Very similar to skunk.)  And, I got to see active wolves.  One of them was very curious about my scooter, so I went along the fence once with him following, hung a U-turn, and did it again.  Fun!

The alpaca was a droll comedian, as he was folded up by his trough, enjoying hay each time we passed by (Picture 2) Isn't that a face that only a mother could love?

The two black bears were active, and we appreciated the elevated walkway so we could see them well (Pict. 3)  The Amur Tiger is not a Bengal tiger, even though he is sometimes misnamed that, because he does not live in Bengal (Pict. 4)

This zoo does a great job of giving information in interesting ways.  They give compare and contrast signs for animals like the polar bear, brown bear, and black bear.  They have fur samples to feel.  The signs are full of meaningful information, and almost all animals have signs.

We have seen the musk ox (oomingmak) at the preserve in Palmer and in several zoos, but I learned (or re-learned what I've forgotten) a lot about him today.  First, he has no musk gland, although he does have facial glands near his eyes, but they do not produce musk.  Second, he is not an ox.  He is actually a member of the sheep and goat family.  Third new fact--he was hunted to extinction in Alaska because he is so easy to hunt.  When threatened by predators, they form a circle around the calves and use their horns and speed to defend them.  An 800-pound bull can run 25 mph to chase wolves away.  However, they are no match for a gun, and with them all being clustered together, they are easy to shoot. 

The musk oxen that are in Alaska today were imported from Greenland in 1930 to the Palmer Musk Ox Farm, which I believe is run by the U of A.  I also learned that they determine status by charging and banging foreheads repeatedly--similar to a car hitting a concrete wall at 17 mph!!!  The musk ox and caribou are the only hooved animals to survive the Pleistocene Era 10,000 years ago.  In fact, musk oxen have been traced back 600,000 years ago! 

The qiviut underwood fiber provides income to 250 Alaskan Native knitters, who get the spun yarn from Palmer's captive herds.  I'd like to know how they get that yarn.  Sedate them?  Kill them?  Ask them pretty please, can we have 3 bags full?  Maybe Salty Adventurer will find out when she visits the Palmer Musk Ox Farm.

We saw their beautiful products at Palmer, and they were super expensive, hundreds of dollars.  But, they are extremely warm, 10 times more warm than wool.  They keep the musk oxen warm down to -100?F.  The designs are specific to villages and depict aspects of their cultural heritage and traditions.

The relaxing zoo visit took only a couple of hours, so we went over to the Campbell Creek Greenbelt--an area in the city where they have beavers, moose, and bears, or so they say.

The paved path parallels a lovely creek in a lovely forest setting.  These were the prettiest trees I've seen since I've been in Alaska.  We met a couple who had seen king salmon and ducks in the creek.  I was pleased when I found a Canadian Goose standing perfectly still and looking like a tree (the white gave him away).  We've learned to shoot what we see because it may be the best you get.  (Picture 6)  I think he's a papa-to-be and his wife was sitting on a nest behind him in the bushes.  She popped her head up twice for a second to see what was going on.

We walked another mile, and Dean laughed at this sign.  (Picture 7)  I hope it makes you smile, too.
We walked another half-mile and came to construction and "Keep Out!" signs.  Dean saw a bridge to the left, and there we found this Canadian Goose couple with their 6 tiny goslings.  I know for some readers this is an everyday event, but for those of us from the Land of Concrete it was a lot of fun.  We must have watched them for 15 minutes.  (Pictures 7, 8, 9)  The creek was running quickly and the parents allowed them to be right next to the bank for no more than 10 seconds.  Getting pictures as they scurried into the water and out was a challenge.  Dean and I were both pleased when he was able to get 5 chicks in the same picture.  As we left, Daddy Goose, who had been watching us as we watched his family, seemed to announce, "I AM THE MAN!" (Picture 10)  No sound, but his pose said it all.

We went back to our car and across the street to The Arctic Roadrunner, a favorite from last time.  They've been in business for over 40 years, and the wall decor is pictures and stories of all their patrons--it's like a history museum and well worth the visit just to read the walls.  Good food, too.  Of course, their specialty was--you guessed it--hamburgers.  I had an extra-small oreo shake with mine (another specialty).  Cash only.  $5.95.  It is a beautiful setting, right by the creek, with a patio outside, and I suspect they spray with mosquito repellent because they didn't have mosquitoes, and I saw a guy with a hose spraying a gentle mist right next to the ground.  They didn't have mosquitoes, and the path we took on the other side of the creek had lots.  I carry mosquito spray in my purse, which really helps because I can grab it at as soon as I see them and protect myself.

Dean dropped me off at the RV because I wanted to continue cleaning.  He has all the laundry done now; I folded, hung, and put away.  We're making exciting progress at returning to a normal state of cleanliness.  He really wanted to see "World War Z," and I'd prefer to clean alone.  He enjoyed the story and the acting, but he agreed that I would not have liked the film.

Dean came home and went to work on my phone (13 apps were frozen, and of course they were our most used apps which he doesn't have duplicates of on his phone).  He thinks he has it totally fixed. I hope so because he's spent at least 4 hours on it.  Hard work deserves success.

We both enjoyed our evening--a good ending to a wonderful day.

Too much to do.  Sorry for the inconsistency of posting.  I haven't had access to the computer, or we've been out having fun, or I've had a chance to be home alone and clean.  It's 1:00 A.M., and we have to be up at 7:00 to meet a friend tomorrow, and we can't get the park's WiFi to come up on either computer, so once again, posting is going to have to wait.

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42
 

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June 28 Day 42 Anchorage, AK

We met my environmental friend from Anchorage for a muffin at Fire Island Bakery, her favorite place.  They used wonderful fresh, healthy ingredients but all their tables inside were just two-chaired, so we sat outside in 55? weather.  The conversation was so stimulating that although we met at 9:00, we didn't stop chatting and exchanging information until well after 11:00.  We have many wonderful places to see that only locals know about.  Her husband is the BLM head for this section of Alaska (there are 3 areas), and one of the places I really want to go is a BLM site.  Dean enjoyed it, too, but when we got in the car, he turned on the heater and pronounced, "I'm COLD!"  He's never cold!  He and Terry Brewer wear shorts in freezing weather.

We went back to the coach so Dean could change into jeans and pick up our Siamese twin computers.  Then we headed to lunch at Snow City Cafe, a place my friend recommended highly and that I had a coupon for.  Alas, after feeding the meter for 1.5 hours of time, there was a 1 hour wait and about 50 people waiting, so we looked for another place to have lunch between where we were and the library.  If we were in the left lane, the fast food places and coffee shops were on the right.  We switched to the right lane, and they were on the left.  We bypassed our street looking and found an Applebee's on the right side.  We ordered and waited and waited.  They apologized because it took so long for our food to come and gave us free mini-desserts.  I think the restaurant temperature was also 55?.  I drank coffee, which I rarely do, just to try to warm up.

We decided to catch up on posting and e-mail at the library because our WiFi at the park is non-existent 60% of the time, and when we do get it, it is so slow.  Their library's WiFi is lovely when you get to it.  You have to go through door after door after door after you discover that the library is on the second floor of the building.  I believe the air temperature here is also 55?

The day is almost gone, and I hope we can get everything done so we can have fun tomorrow.

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42
 
I WROTE THIS A WEEK AGO BUT HAD TROUBLE POSTING. Please pardon the tardiness.

June 21 Day 35 Healy, Alaska (Denali Nat'l Park)

We heard the alarm go off at 4:45 A.M., but at that time in the morning my ears are not connected to the brain.  The noise wouldn't stop, so I had to get up to shut it off.  The brain slowly awakened and said, "You have to get with it, big time.  Only one-and-a-half hours."  I washed up, made the sandwiches, and got the water bottles into the ice chest.  I made a list last night, knowing that I'm not a morning person.  I got the oatmeal going because I thought it would stay with us longer. I put the 35% Deet on all my limbs, and then I put on my mosquito-sprayed clothes.  I checked to make sure that my mosquito repellent was in my purse.  Last night I saw the hugest mosquito I've ever seen.  It was bigger than a silver dollar, and I'd swear to that!  Dean says he's seen 2 or 3 of those big boys, and I have heard that their bites hurt like crazy at the time you're bitten, and then they itch like crazy for a long time thereafter.  Then we carried out our presents from Christmas, 2012--my wonderful binoculars and Dean's camera with all 3 lenses, one of which is so long it goes from his neck to his belt and beyond.  We were out of the RV by 6:15, having made a list and checked it twice.  We hope we've thought of everything.

As Dean drove out on the highway, he turned left....but Denali NP is a right turn.  He's not an early bird either.  Fortunately, I caught the mistake.  We got to the Wilderness Access Center at 6:45, and then we went to get a wheelchair.  I can walk, but they told me that the distance from the ground to the first step of the bus was 18", which is higher than I can go with my arthritis.  So, we selected a time when the bus provided would be wheelchair accessible and I could enter via the lift at the back.  What a pain!

The green school bus arrived, and Dean reserved a seat at the front (that's the whole reason we got there so early) and then he, the driver, and the scheduler looked at how to operate the lift.  Meanwhile, I'm looking at the step and thinking, "That isn't 18 inches!  I think I can do that one."  I told them that I wanted to try.  It was no problem, though I was at my max.  They had great handrails inside, which were much appreciated..

Our bus driver Barr (middle name Bee--her parents had a weird sense of humor--put it together and you get Barr Bee--say it faster) is a school bus driver during the school year and has done this summer job at Denali for many years.  She is a very competent driver and has done a lot of research on her own to learn more about the animals and their habitat.  I like her a lot.

With 20 pairs of eyes looking for wildlife, you'd think we'd see something.  But, for the first 30 miles, nothing except 2 Dall sheep on a far away mountain.  (Picture 1)  They look like little white dots that move, but the binoculars help me make out a head and 4 legs on each one.

The total trip will be 85 miles each way, a total of 170 miles over 11 hours; end destination is Wonder Lake.  We bump, bump, bump along over the rough washboard road, but Barr misses the potholes and slows a lot over the roughest parts.  It would be so much nicer with luxury coach seats (which are not available). 

Barr spots a cinnamon-colored grizzly eating roots, their usual diet.  She tells us that he can eat 40 pounds of blueberries a day when they are available.  He is primarily vegetarian, but he likes meat--he just doesn't usually chase it down.  He lets a wolf pack take down a caribou.  They get a few bites to eat until he meanders over and claims their kill.  He can kill a wolf with one swipe of a paw--those claws are wicked.

We drive a couple of miles further, and Barr and I both see a hoary marmot scampering onto the road.  She knew what it was; I didn't.  He's a member of the rabbit family, but he kind of reminds me of a squirrel.  He bounces to the middle of the road and does a Happy Dance, running around, jumping up and down.  The other passengers couldn't see this because it's happening at the front of the bus.  Then the hoary marmot ran about 6 feet up on the side of a hill and posed for pictures.  Dean took two pictures.  We spent a good 10 minutes tonight zooming, enhancing, and staring, but his champagne color is the same color as the dirt and rock.  The camouflage defeated us, so there's no picture.

Rest stops occur every hour to hour-and-a-half.  We choose not to get off at Eielson (lots of hungry mosquitoes), but those who do are treated to the sight of a red fox prancing down the highway.  Darn!

We are fortunate to see Denali.  Only about 20% of the visitors get to see it on a clear day, and it's been without clouds for the last several days because it's been so hot.  This is the 100 year anniversary of it being climbed successfully to the highest peak (Southern Peak), and descendants of those climbers are now on the mountain doing the same climb in the same way.  I hope they make it without mishap.

We got to Wonder Lake and planned to get off until we saw the massive swarms of mosquitoes.  I've already been bitten too much, and even with all my protection, I'm not willing to risk it.  Those who do go out run back with lots of bites and mosquitoes stuck to their hats and clothing.  We are halfway through, and we haven't seen nearly as much wildlife as I expected.  I am disappointed.

The trip back turned out well.  We saw caribou (Picture 4), 2 more bears (No Picture), a moose cow having a bad hair day--shedding her winter coat (Picture 5), 2 elegant trumpeter swans (Pictures 6 & 7).  I loved Picture 7 because it seems like we get 4 pictures of animals posterior for every head or body shot.

Then we came across so many bull moose you'd think there was a convention.  The first one played hide -n go seek with us, hiding behind the bushes, and then emerging. (Picture 8)  The next one had a big rack (Picture 9)  The third had an even bigger rack (Picture 10).  Then we saw one that was lighter in color (Pictures 11 & 12).  He chomped away for quite a while, tired of it, and just laid down in the pond.  We encountered one very scrawny bull moose (Picture 13).  We saw 2 grizzly from too far to get a good picture, then another caribou (Picture 14), a baby caribou without parent (Picture 15, another bull moose (Picture 16), 2 different Dall sheep, (Picture 17), and the finale was a pretty moose calf (Picture 17 & 18).  We saw even more wildlife than I've noted--all on the return trip.  I tried to type them into my phone app, "Notes" without looking at the face of the phone because I didn't want to take my eyes off the bushes and meadows, lest I miss someone.  It's so garbled that it looks like a kid randomly typing letters.

We were really tired after the 11-hour ride roller-coaster ride.  We had a microwave quick bite to eat, and we were in bed before 8:30--the first time I think I've been in bed that early since I was about 8 years old.  Tomorrow we repeat the trip.
 

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More pictures

 

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Still more pictures...
 

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June 28 continued

We closed the library at 6:00 with still more computer work to be done.  Dean wanted to stop at REI and buy a sweatshirt.  What a great store!  We bought a membership because it saved us money, and it's good forever.  Not only did he find a wonderful sweatshirt, but we found Deet (we bought a spare, too--I will defeat these skeeters), thin, warm socks , and my mosquito net hat.  The netting folds up into the hat when not in use.  I am truly a happy camper.

Tidal Wave Books is in the same mall so we bought Coming Into the Country.  My Anchorage friend said that if I loved Alaska, I would also enjoy this book.  I hop so.

I've been collecting pay-back as I have eaten hamburgers with Dean.  So, he willingly (at least on the outside) came to my favorite Anchorage restaurant, Dish, a Japanese sushi bar with good cooked food, too.  Dean had teriyaki steak, and I went for an FBI roll (sushi) which was amazing and halibut tempura, most of which I brought home.  Their food is delicious, especially their sushi and salads, but I am not as crazy for their tempura as I am for their other food.  Free corn and barley tea and free desserts of tempura Oreo cookies completed the meal.

It's light outside so late that we didn't want to end our day, so we drove out to Kincaid Park to see moose again, as we did in '09.  The bartender was anxious to share her love of Anchorage, shared pictures she had taken of moose twin calves that she had taken a week ago on her run out there, and gave us directions.  She left out a step or both of us heard incorrectly.  We traveled off our map and into the very busy Alaska RR trainyard, where a nice security guard gave us directions to get home.  Meanwhile, we saw lots of fisherpeople trying to catch king salmon in the nearby stream.  The season closes after tomorrow.  The kings have the highest fat content, and many people say they have the best flavor.
 
June 29 Day 43 Anchorage, AK

Saturday at last!  I've been looking forward to the Saturday market because we had such fun there last time.  We didn't eat breakfast (a lesson learned), and we had a pieroghey (kind of like a Russian pasty filled with ground beef and cheese), delicious roasted corn-on-the-cob, kettlecorn, and Dean's hamburger. 

We met such interesting people.  At the burl booth, we met a lady who lives in the bush 40 air miles from Anchorage, accessible only by snowmobile or airplane.  She has raised 4 kids out there, 3 of whom are college graduates, and the fourth, who is a high-functioning autistic child, completed 2 years of college before deciding it wasn't for him.  They have no plumbing.  They go to the outhouse in -15? weather.  She says they just do their business quickly.  They bring in tanks of propane and gasoline on the back of the snowmobile using a barge/sled, so they use it sparingly.  They only have electricity for a few hours each evening.  They live with the bears, and she says bears are very curious, so they eventually have to shoot 50% of those they encounter.  The meat tastes like beef, and they make teddy bears out of the fur, and she sells them to tourists in the summer.  A true Alaskan!

We ate our lunch with a fascinating Yupik elder who had been a salmon fisherman.  He said his life had been stressed by having one foot in the "outside" world and one in the native world.  Of his large extended family of siblings, cousins, parents, and grandparents, only 2 have escaped the failed lives brought about by drugs and alcohol.  He didn't tell us if he was one of the 2 but he said he doesn't drink or drug, and neither do his two daughters.  Prices in his village are much higher than Anchorage because of transportation costs, so he has moved into the Alaskan Senior Home to be near his daughters and grandchildren.  He asked their permission before he came.  He spoke Yupik when he was young, but he has lost his language and culture.  He is very bitter toward the Catholics because he says they took away their customs.  He wasn't very verbal, but an occasional "Oh?" or "That's interesting!" would start him up again, and he'd tell us more.  We got a peek into another culture.

I bought a $20 raffle ticket from Mike, another brash Alaskan.  He held forth on how Alaska should not be subjected to the environmental laws of the United States.  They could govern themselves quite nicely, thank you.  He wants Alaska to be its own country on environmental issues, but he wants the protection of the armed forces, etc. that the U. S. provides.  Mike is very proud that in December there will be a new series on Animal Planet called "Alaskan Moosemen," and he will be playing a part in it.  My purchase supports a volunteer organization that responds to calls from police when a moose has been killed on the road.  They come out to the site, winch up the moose in about 4 minutes, and take it to the charity that is next on the list, where it feeds the poor.  If I win, I will get a huge Harley-Davidson motorcycle.  I would have to arrange for shipping, and I am not a biker.  I guess I'd sell it or donate it back to them.  I kind of hope I don't win.

I got a $45membership to Sam's Club because we boondock there.  It came with a $40 gift card and a cookbook, so I can't go far wrong. 

Dean got a beautiful ulu with a caribou antler handle (they shed their antlers--no one was harmed in making this object) and cutting board, which is not only decorative, but we will find it very useful.

I bought a cute, warm, fluffy hat with long, wide band of fluff hanging down which terminates in a pockets for you to put your hands in.  It will be perfect for my niece at the Rose Parade on New Year's Day.  I got a purse with an outside cellphone pocket for myself.

We wanted to see the art stores on G Street.  We have 2 favorites, Artique, and the one on the corner of 5th and G with the beautiful, high-quality work (sorry that I forgot its name).  Steven Gordon displays exclusively with Artique, and someday we will buy one of his paintings.  We saw one we loved in '09, but it was already sold.  We've really liked several others, but for us to spend that kind of money, we've decided we have to love, love, love it.

It was now around 7:00, and we were hungry.  We went to Vallarta's, a Mexican hole-in-the-wall that we discovered last time, and I had a buy a dinner/get a dinner free coupon.  They make the best chili rellenos, stuffed with beef and cheese, and covered by a wonderful sauce.  Their guacamole is bland, and I wouldn't order the flan again--it's good, but not special.  But their dinners are delicious!

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42
 
June 30 Day 44 Anchorage, AK

Last night we stayed up chatting outside with Susan and Don.  How much fun it was to share our very different experiences in Alaska!  We all choose to go different places and enjoy different activities, and it's interesting to see this grand land through others' eyes.  We're looking forward to meeting up with them again while we are here.

When we came inside the RV, there was still much to do, so late to bed made us late to rise.  We decided on a quick oatmeal breakfast; maybe they'd have good native foods for lunch at the Alaska Native Heritage Center ($24.95 w/our Alaska Toursaver buy one/get one free coupon). 

Outside the entrance was a Yup'ik (1/8) 18-year-old girl playing with "Moose Balls", which in Hawaii are known as "Poi Balls."  They are  orbs covered with moose hide attached on a string, which you swing through the air and create fun geometric patterns.  I was a lot more interested in her story than her game that could be bought at the gift store.  She is from Bethel, a Northern town of 4,000-6,000 people.  A plane is the only way into Bethel, and it comes once a week, depending on weather.  Sometimes in the summer it comes more often.  Good brought in from the "outside" are very expensive.  Milk runs $10/gallon, and most people drink powdered milk.  Fuel runs $40/gallon.  Many of the Yup'ik are lactose intolerant and have no enzyme to break down milk, which was not a part of their diet long ago.  The water there is not very tasty because it has a large iron content.  They prefer to drink Coke.  The Yup'ik fisherman I met at the market had also commented on how many Yup'iks have rotten teeth.  I wonder why???  They pick vegetation that grows on their tundra and sometimes find berries, but their diet is 95% meat and fish.  In the winter the average temperature there is "only" -30?m but they will have a few "cold" days of -70?.  Their winter has 90 days without ever seeing the sun!  The hottest it ever gets there is 75?-80?. 

Michelle will be going to a small college in Iowa to study Native American Cultures.  She will only pay $215 per semester, with the rest of her tuition being paid by the Bureau of Indian Affairs.  She's only 1/8 Native American, and you need to be 1/4 to enroll in the "corporation".  Each tribe has its own corporation.  So, she and her father, who is 1/4 Yup'ik had to fill out massive amounts of paperwork, provide documentation, send it off, and then await a vote by the board of the corporation.  They voted to let her in.  Later in the day, we met a young lady who is enrolled in three corporations.  Being in a corporation makes you eligible for federal government programs, like the college scholarships, as well as providing healthy annual checks from revenue-producing ventures.  These ventures include drilling for oil on the native lands, but also businesses like automobile insurance firms in Anchorage.  The businesses do not have to be on tribal lands, just owned by the corporation.  It was explained to us as like owning stock in a company.  But no one knows or understands my question when I ask if every member gets the same amount, or if someone who is 1/8 only gets half as much as someone who is 1/4, if different members have different amounts of "stock".  Cost of living in the village is so expensive that many people leave.  They have a medical clinic, and if you are really ill, they bring in a plane to take you to Anchorage or Fairbanks.

As we entered, a Native speaker from St. Lawrence Island was giving information.  She said they close the NAHC from September to April and provide education on Native dances, culture, and language to children from Anchorage so they won't lose their tribal ties.  They bring in instructors from all over the state of Alaska.  She described each of the 6 areas of Alaska and compared and contrasted their ways of living.

Following her, the "games" presenters came on stage.  WOW!  For me, this was the highlight of the day.  In the winter, it is important to maintain physical fitness.  Hunting is very dangerous and strenuous, and it requires speed and accuracy. Once you kill an animal, you have to carry it back to the village.  So they had competitions, which are still taught in the Alaskan schools as part of Physical Education.  Every two years, they have Arctic Games, similar to the Olympics, in which they do many of the Olympic events, as well as these "Alaskan" games.  Participants come from Greenland, Alaska, Canada, and Russia.  There are also Alaskan Games, which are held yearly and are open only to Alaskans.  The next Arctic games are in two weeks in Fairbanks.

The narrator explained that in all the Native cultures, the man was never supposed to be boastful.  If both men and women were present, the men should sit on the floor, while the ladies sat on benches.  The man was supposed to boast by doing good actions.

In picture 1, the athlete has to balance on one hand and touch a ball.  As he is successful, the ball is raised higher and higher. 
Picture 2 is the Butt Race.  Holding both feet together (which in and of itself is very difficult!), they bounce on their bottoms.  First person to the finish line wins.  This was hilarious and extremely difficult.

There is no picture of the Hop Hop.  They hop from left foot to right foot, right foot to left foot, taking as long strides as possible, four times.  The person who covers the greatest distance wins.  This was to maintain balance on ice.  You have to maintain balance on the icebergs, so you don't fall in and freeze. 

In Picture 3, he has to only have his hand on the floor, hold his foot with the other hand, while kicking (a small touch counts) a moosehide ball.  The ball is raised progressively higher. 

In another game, the player runs up and kicks the hanging ball.  Stephen was able to kick the ball when it was 8'3" in the air.  The record is 9'6", but his kick was high enough for the audience to gasp and applaud loudly. 

Lunch time!  The only eating place was outside, and it was 60?, totally overcast, and felt like 50? with a breeze blowing.  BRRR!  Their main item was coffee.  It was before noon, and they were almost sold out.  I got their last turkey & cheese sandwich, and Dean got a ham & cheese (the only sandwich selection left).  So much for my Native food, but it was filling.  We brought it to inside seating to eat it. 

Then we bundled up and went outside to the six villages.  Four years ago, they had a Native American at each village, and we loved it.  This time, there were none.  The only way you get a narrative is by going on the tour with 20+ other people.  I loved being able to ask questions last time and hear the speaker tell about first person experiences.  That's where I learned that ocean-caught salmon is better than river-caught.  The speaker said he wouldn't eat any caught in the rivers because they are mushy.  He explained that the salmon expends energy going upstream, and as he does, he builds acids which soften his muscles. 

Each village had a good general sign about the house, but no explanation of the realia inside.

Picture 4 is of the longhouse made of cedar trees, used by the southeastern Native Peoples, like the Athabascan, Tshimian, and Haida.  Then the camera battery went dead.

Talking with the Iditarod veteran at the sled dogs was great.  The sled ride behind those powerful dogs is the fastest I've seen, and if we had the camera working, I'd have spent the $10 to do it and get a picture. 

Back inside, we saw beautiful dresses, capes, headbands on display. They were made from beaver and wolf.  Beads and lace came from "outside" after contact.  Six craftspeople were making items on site for sale.

We heard singing, so we went into the stage area and saw girls dancing. (Picture 5) The dances have meaning.  The fans are made from gruff (goatee of the caribou) and have a rye grass base.  So much of their lore has been lost that I think much of what we see is how they have best pieced together remnants of knowledge and how they think things must have been, as well as some that is backed up by evidence. 

In one of the tribal villages, they emphasized the separateness of men and women, with each having their own dorm-type sleeping huts.  The area was very north and very cold.  I wondered how they managed to keep their people regenerating (Did I put that PC enough?).  It's a question I would have asked if there had been anyone to ask.

There were films about native life every half-hour in a beautiful auditorium, but we really wanted to see "The Heat," with Sandra Bullock, and the movies were right across the street.  We gave into temptation and enjoyed a hilarious movie.

It was after 7:00, so we stopped at the 50's City Diner (Northern Lights Coupon-Buy one dinner/ another is free).  We had crispy fish (cod) and chips for $14.95.  I changed my chips to a salad, and it was a tiny salad (less than a cup of lettuce with 1/8 of a tomato and enough dressing for 4 salads).  They charged me $3 extra and didn't inform me at the time of order.  The service was great.  A panhandler approached us as we were eating, but he saw the waitress coming back speedily, and he high-tailed it out of there.  She said they have a CSA (community service assistance) program that they call when there are drunks or druggies around and they come pick them up, as a danger to themselves or others, take them to a central hall where they sober up or come down.  Then they give them referrals to other agencies for help, but most prefer to return to the streets.

Staying at Golden Nugget RV Park--$42
 

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Especially interesting commentary, Linda.  Those kids are doing tough exercises!

ArdraF
 

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