Great Alaska Adventure - 2013

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9 pm on Saturday, June 8, 2013

Just as we predicted, about every 10 days to 2 weeks, we need a day off, without going anywhere. No driving for a whole day. Today was the day, in spite of ideas we had for places it would be nice to hike. We read books, picnicked, did the laundry, and just puttered around for the day. Fixed a nice dinner of grilled chicken breasts that had been marinated in buttermilk and ranch dressing mix (very juicy and tender!) and now I think I'm headed for an early-to-bed night. My eyes are itching so badly from allergies...is it cottonwoods or something else with lots of pollen?...that I'm practically scratching them out of my head. Sleep is the only answer...even my Rx Patanol drops aren't doing much good.

We walked around the RV park a bit, and I visited the General Store here and bought a couple more bags of buffalo jerky, locally made. Support the local economy, which is anything but robust! I'm making great progress with the book, Alaska, by Michener. Great book. He's such a good writer and storyteller.
 
I love your reading your post, as for meeting up we will be around Alaska all Summer. No hurry on this trip.
 
Sunday June 9, 2013

We tried to leave our campground earlier than normal today, figuring that the drive from Coram MT around the southern tip of Glacier NP over to Browning MT and then to St. Mary at the east side of Glacier would be prettier early in the day. And we also wanted to do the drive into Glacier NP on the Many Glacier road, since the scenery is said by many to be the most dramatic of any of the roads in the park. Well, we pulled out at 10:30 instead of noon, anyway! That?s early for us!

The sky was sunny, with bunches of small puffy clouds whizzing along?you can tell the winds were blasting. Again. And my eyes are so red and itchy from the cottonwoods in heat everywhere, in great numbers, that Don drove because I could hardly keep my eyes open. After about 45 minutes with the air conditioner on, the air inside the Rollin Home was somewhat filtered, and I was better, but it?s still pretty miserable going. I always say that during this season, allergy medication is worthless and my 3 different types of eyedrops are similarly worthless?kinda like I want to commit suicide. And with blasting winds, life is even worse.

Enough complaining already. Every mile of the drive was spectacular. Around every curve was a new and more dramatic view of Glacier?s towering, jagged giants, some as pointy as spears, others looking like a set of dinosaur teeth, still others huge squared-off cliffs dropping directly to the floor of a valley. One particularly memorable view was of a huge tapering pile of rock with a very long, razor-thin jaggedy ridge stretching the entire length of the very top?makes you wonder how the forces of wind, water and a gazillion years of erosion could forge such a strange shape.

We stopped in Browning MT to fill up on diesel fuel, as we had been advised to by many an RVer who had warned that prices were drastically higher elsewhere, especially a short way north in Canada. Browning is on the Blackfeet Tribe?s reservation?we had read about and heard about the Blackfeet for years and were so anxious to stop at the Museum of the Plains Indians in Browning. One guide told us it was open 7 days a week; another said it was closed Sunday and Monday. Drat, it was closed, as was the Blackfeet Trading Post just down the street. Not much else in Browning, so we moved on to St. Mary, our trip to Many Glacier, and our KOA campground.

The roads on the eastern side of Glacier are narrow and far more primitive than on the western side. Lots of ?rough road ahead? signs, and the rough patches were so rough that at times we went 5-10 mph because we were being thrown around so much. We stopped in St. Mary to have lunch at The Park Caf? on Hwy 89?I had read many RVer journals that old of the fabulous food and homemade pies there. St. Mary is a tiny place, almost nothing here, but it has an amazing number of restaurants, supposedly very good ones.

The Park Caf? does a land-office business, and has a whole bunch of college students who come in from around the country to work as waitstaff and kitchen staff. We learned within minutes of sitting down that our waitress was from Grand Rapids, MI, my ome town. Small world, again. The place is very small and is a throwback to days of yore?classic little roadside caf?, seating maybe 30 at the most, if you count the 5 old-fashioned twirly-stools at the counter up front near the kitchen.

Great food, and unbelievable homemade pies. Today the list of fresh homemade pies totaled 13 (would have been 14 except they were out of the fresh strawberry pie). Don had a big bowl of the homemade chili (with beef and beans)?definitely outstanding. I had a ?small? order of the fish & chips, which was 3 good-sized pieces of hand-battered fresh salmon with fresh sweet potato fries, and a small side salad. Perfectly done, and perfectly delicious!

We absolutely couldn?t leave without trying some pie?Son had banana cream, which he said was probably the best banana cream pie he?d had since high school days in East Peoria, IL, back in the late 50s. I had rhubarb pie, which blew me away?chunks of fresh rhubarb cooked perfectly so they still had their shape and a tiny bit of crunch?honest to gosh like my Gram used to make when I was a kid in the 50s!  We both said we?ll probably go back there for breakfast tomorrow morning, and have pie & coffee! (Later in the day, we spoke with a number of people at our RV park who said they?re going to do the exact same thing!)

Speaking of the RV park?the KOA in St. Mary is a real gem! Great owners, beautiful views, wonderful bathrooms with Corian countertops, a very well-equipped little store, and a terrific ice cream stand with REAL ice cream that gets dipped out of big containers (not just the frozen bars piled in a freezer bin like most campgrounds). Susan and her husband have owned the place for 18 years, and they really work hard to make this place nice.

Our drive into Glacier NP on the Many Glacier road was terrific. Mind-blowing beautiful. We intended to take several short hikes, but the winds were ferocious?there were sizeable whitecaps on Swiftcurrent Lake and people were really bending against the wind as they walked. As we drove back out of the park, a ranger?s car was stopped, heading towards us, and he put his warning lights on to make us stop as we approached. I slid my driver?s side window open and asked him what was going on?he pointed and said, ?Well, I have a big black bear here, right off the side of the road, and I don?t want anyone to hit him.? Yep, there he was, a very big guy with amazingly glossy fur that shone in the dappled sunlight, chomping away at the lush forage of dandelions in bloom along the road. He started ambling towards the road, clearly aiming to walk in the road. By this time, several oncoming cars had stopped and were also watching the show. The ranger got out of his car, grabbed his can of bear spray, and walked halfway across the road toward the bear, clapping his hands and saying, ?Get out of here!? Mr. Bear very compliantly turned on his heals and scampered down the hill away from the road. Our first bear sighting on this trip?up close and personal!

Night all! Time for bed. On to Waterton in Alberta, Canada, tomorrow?maybe high tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel. And then to Calgary!
 
We visited The Museum of the Plains Indians two years ago. Was one of those "Been there/Done that" things. I would not go out of my way to go back again. Just north of St. Mary there was a restaurant called The two Sisters that we really liked.

Frank
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Well, we pulled out at 10:30 instead of noon, anyway! That?s early for us!

. As we drove back out of the park, a ranger?s car was stopped, heading towards us, and he put his warning lights on to make us stop as we approached. I slid my driver?s side window open and asked him what was going on?he pointed and said, ?Well, I have a big black bear here, right off the side of the road, and I don?t want anyone to hit him.? Yep, there he was, a very big guy with amazingly glossy fur that shone in the dappled sunlight, chomping away at the lush forage of dandelions in bloom along the road. He started ambling towards the road, clearly aiming to walk in the road. By this time, several oncoming cars had stopped and were also watching the show. The ranger got out of his car, grabbed his can of bear spray, and walked halfway across the road toward the bear, clapping his hands and saying, ?Get out of here!? Mr. Bear very compliantly turned on his heals and scampered down the hill away from the road. Our first bear sighting on this trip?up close and personal!

We also are late risers, but we're out today at 7:15 in hopes of having wonderful bear experience like you had, or a moose experience.  Reading your bear story was like I was there.  You are wonderfully descriptive.  Thanks for the joy!
 
Sunday June 9, 2013

We tried to leave our campground earlier than normal today, figuring that the drive from Coram MT around the southern tip of Glacier NP over to Browning MT and then to St. Mary at the east side of Glacier would be prettier early in the day. And we also wanted to do the drive into Glacier NP on the Many Glacier road, since the scenery is said by many to be the most dramatic of any of the roads in the park. Well, we pulled out at 10:30 instead of noon, anyway! That?s early for us!

The sky was sunny, with bunches of small puffy clouds whizzing along?you can tell the winds were blasting. Again. And my eyes are so red and itchy from the cottonwoods in heat everywhere, in great numbers, that Don drove because I could hardly keep my eyes open. After about 45 minutes with the air conditioner on, the air inside the Rollin Home was somewhat filtered, and I was better, but it?s still pretty miserable going. I always say that during this season, allergy medication is worthless and my 3 different types of eyedrops are similarly worthless?kinda like I want to commit suicide. And with blasting winds, life is even worse.

Enough complaining already. Every mile of the drive was spectacular. Around every curve was a new and more dramatic view of Glacier?s towering, jagged giants, some as pointy as spears, others looking like a set of dinosaur teeth, still others huge squared-off cliffs dropping directly to the floor of a valley. One particularly memorable view was of a huge tapering pile of rock with a very long, razor-thin jaggedy ridge stretching the entire length of the very top?makes you wonder how the forces of wind, water and a gazillion years of erosion could forge such a strange shape.

We stopped in Browning MT to fill up on diesel fuel, as we had been advised to by many an RVer who had warned that prices were drastically higher elsewhere, especially a short way north in Canada. Browning is on the Blackfeet Tribe?s reservation?we had read about and heard about the Blackfeet for years and were so anxious to stop at the Museum of the Plains Indians in Browning. One guide told us it was open 7 days a week; another said it was closed Sunday and Monday. Drat, it was closed, as was the Blackfeet Trading Post just down the street. Not much else in Browning, so we moved on to St. Mary, our trip to Many Glacier, and our KOA campground.

The roads on the eastern side of Glacier are narrow and far more primitive than on the western side. Lots of ?rough road ahead? signs, and the rough patches were so rough that at times we went 5-10 mph because we were being thrown around so much. We stopped in St. Mary to have lunch at The Park Caf? on Hwy 89?I had read many RVer journals that old of the fabulous food and homemade pies there. St. Mary is a tiny place, almost nothing here, but it has an amazing number of restaurants, supposedly very good ones.

The Park Caf? does a land-office business, and has a whole bunch of college students who come in from around the country to work as waitstaff and kitchen staff. We learned within minutes of sitting down that our waitress was from Grand Rapids, MI, my home town. Small world, again. The place is very small and is a throwback to days of yore?classic little roadside caf?, seating maybe 30 at the most, if you count the 5 old-fashioned twirly-stools at the counter up front near the kitchen.

Great food, and unbelievable homemade pies. Today the list of fresh homemade pies totaled 13 (would have been 14 except they were out of the fresh strawberry pie). Don had a big bowl of the homemade chili (with beef and beans)?definitely outstanding. I had a ?small? order of the fish & chips, which was 3 good-sized pieces of hand-battered fresh salmon with fresh sweet potato fries, and a small side salad. Perfectly done, and perfectly delicious!

We absolutely couldn?t leave without trying some pie?Son had banana cream, which he said was probably the best banana cream pie he?d had since high school days in East Peoria, IL, back in the late 50s. I had rhubarb pie, which blew me away?chunks of fresh rhubarb cooked perfectly so they still had their shape and a tiny bit of crunch?honest to gosh like my Gram used to make when I was a kid in the 50s!  We both said we?ll probably go back there for breakfast tomorrow morning, and have pie & coffee! (Later in the day, we spoke with a number of people at our RV park who said they?re going to do the exact same thing!)

Speaking of the RV park?the KOA in St. Mary is a real gem! Great owners, beautiful views, wonderful bathrooms with Corian countertops, a very well-equipped little store, and a terrific ice cream stand with REAL ice cream that gets dipped out of big containers (not just the frozen bars piled in a freezer bin like most campgrounds). Susan and her husband have owned the place for 18 years, and they really work hard to make this place nice.

Our drive into Glacier NP on the Many Glacier road was terrific. Definitely the MOST beautiful road into Glacier NP, and much less-traveled. Better than my memories of Going-To-The-Sun-Road! Mind-blowingly beautiful. We intended to take several short hikes at the end of the road in the heart of Glacier, but the winds were ferocious?there were sizeable whitecaps on Swiftcurrent Lake and people were really bending against the wind as they walked. Not good.

As we drove back out of the park, a ranger?s car was stopped, heading towards us, and he put his warning lights on to make us stop as we approached. I slid my driver?s side window open and asked him what was going on?he pointed and said, ?Well, I have a big black bear here, right off the side of the road, and I don?t want anyone to hit him.? Yep, there he was, a very big guy with amazingly glossy fur that shone in the dappled sunlight, chomping away at the lush forage of dandelions in bloom along the road. He started ambling towards the road, clearly aiming to walk in the road. By this time, several oncoming cars had stopped and were also watching the show. The ranger got out of his car, grabbed his can of bear spray, and walked halfway across the road toward the bear, clapping his hands and saying, ?Get out of here!? Mr. Bear very compliantly turned on his heals and scampered quickly down the hill away from the road. Our first bear sighting on this trip?up close and personal!

Night all! Time for bed. On to Waterton in Alberta, Canada, tomorrow?maybe high tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel. And then to Calgary!
 
Monday June 10, 2013

What a day! Surrounded by beauty part of the day, as we headed north, then back to urban traffic in Calgary, then an evening get-together with new friends from the Calgary Winnebago-Itasca Travelers (WIT) Group whom I had contacted on the Internet.

We decided to bypass Waterton NP north of the border after leaving St. Mary, only because we stopped at the Park Caf? in St. Mary for fresh pie & coffee for breakfast, and going to the Prince of Wales Lodge in Waterton for lunch would have been an overload of food too early in the day. Another time, another visit?we?ll make it there, just not this time. Another item for the bucket-list!

Sticking to the main roads, we headed to someplace near Calgary for the night. As we neared the city, we looked for the shopping malls I had spotted when I used my Google maps earlier today before leaving St. Mary?we wanted to find a bank to change some US $$ into Canadian $$, and we wanted a Telus store in order to buy a Telus Wi-fi card to use while in Canada, and an inexpensive Telus cellphone so we can communicate woth the outside world while here, on this segment of the trip, and toward the end when we are on Vancouver Island for a week or more. We found both, right away. Get our transactions done was easy, but a bit time-consuming, so our plan to be at Bow Rivers Edge RV Park outside of Calgary, in nearby Cochrane, was smashed.

Rush hour traffic on the main N/S highway through Calgary was crazy nuts wild! These people drive like idiots! And hey, we lived and drove in NYC, and in Chicago for almost 30 years, and I?ve driven in London and LA and everywhere. So we?re not easily intimidated, and we?re pretty aggressive ourselves. But here drivers are really bizarre. You never saw so many people weaving back and forth from lane to lane in your life, going 70 mph in 50 mph zones, and tailgating every minute of the way?absolutely wild. We were glad we weren?t staying in Calgary longer, believe it or not?the Olympic Park, the Calgary Zoo, some museums are all worth seeing here, but the driving, oh my gosh!

Calgary West Campground located right in the city, had been recommended, but we decided our very-rural and in-the-wilds trip didn?t lend itself to an urban RV park. So we found Bow Rivers Edge, located in Cochrane, a town just southwest of Calgary, in a guidebook and headed there. It is literally in the middle of a huge industrial park, in the most unlikely location in the world?.but it is a wonderful place to stay! Easy to get to and get out of, beautifully landscaped, reasonably priced (a Good Sam park!), with terrific amenities!  And the Bow River is big, fast and beautiful. We recommend it highly to anyone who?s going to Calgary in an RV.

There?s another RV Park in Cochrane also, which we passed on the way to Bow Rivers Edge?but Springhill RV Park turned out to be very full of ?permanents? (people who live in their RVs and coaches and trailers FT), and is basically in the middle of a big open field. Not pretty, not nice?conveniently located, but right on a main highway and a thumbs down for anyone vacationing. We figured the permanent residents there were probably oilfield workers who have moved in to do the drilling and pump installations in the area?we were amazed as how many oil wells were being drilled and BIG oil pumps being installed in the farm fields all around Calgary. Lots of money being made up here!

We hooked up the Rollin Home at Bow Rivers Edge, made a quick dinner because our stomachs were growling mightily, then called the folks from the WIT group up here that we had emailed with a month or so ago. Sid & Lorraine, the top officers of the Calgary Wild Rose WIT group, drove from their house not too far away, picked us up and drove us to a nearby Tim Horton?s for fabulous coffee and a sweetroll. The four of us clicked, and it felt as if we?d been friends for 25 years! What a lovely evening, chatting with folks we had really wanted to meet. They made us want to come back to Alberta in a few years and stay much longer?Lorraine brought us a whole bag of tourism guidebooks to help us on our journey north to Banff and Lake Louise, and they really did help a lot!

RVers are very special people, especially the ones in the WIT groups! It is so much fun to share funny stories about our trips, and share tips on where to go next, and what to see.

We tumbled into bed, exhausted but energized for the next phase.
 
Tuesday June 11, 2013

Tonight we are in Hinton, just north of Jasper NP, and the KOA. Really nice place. I think we'll stay tomorrow night, too, since it was a long drive to get here today, and we're worn out.

We stopped at Banff, and walked through the Fairmont Banff...I wanted to see the art gallery in the hotel, because they sell the work of some great Canadian artists whose names I know pretty well. Great gallery...Mountainside Gallery, with VERY good art!

Bison jerky served as our lunch snack while we drove north to Lake Louise, where we parked and took the short hike in to the "emerald lake." So gorgeous! Friends of ours who've been to Lake Louise a half-dozen times just rave about its beauty and its relaxing qualities, and I can really see why! They?ve stayed at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise a bunch of times in the winter...such a view, such serenity, such grandeur! Makes me want to do the sme thing sometime in the future. Today the sun was out, casting huge shadows over the mountains and the lake because of puffy clouds scudding overhead. The clouds were perfect puffs over the Victoria Glacier, and the lake really was the most beautiful shades of blue-green I've ever seen. Made me want to sit and paint the scene right on the spot...but alas, we had no time for that nonsense. Some other time. Another ?new? item for the bucket list!

During our drive from Lake Louise up to Jasper and then to Hinton, I said about six times I'd love to come back here in 2-3 years and stay 2-3 weeks in Alberta...there's so much to see and do that we're not able to take time for right now! I want badly to go to Drumheller and visit the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, east of Calgary, but it's a long detour out to Canada?s badlands, and there?s absolutely no place to camp with the RV out there. But the dinosaur and mammoth discoveries out there have been extraordinary, and it?s really an amazing place, I?ve heard and read. I decided after extensive research that we just can't fit that 180 mile RT into this adventure, darn it! I also want to spend a lot more time at Banff and Lake Louise, and also go to Yoho NP for a day, to see the Burgess Shale, the world?s foremost site for deposits of ancient invertebrates.

We didn't stop and hike today at the Columbia Icefields, either, though it had been highly recommended to us by friends. The sky was beginning to close in once again by late day and we thought we'd better get on to Hinton. Things were looking rainy, and the sky was spitting. We also rationalized that we are going to be seeing a gazillion icefields and glaciers in Alaska, so that skipping these in Alberta might not hurt us too much. But reading about the icefields here was interesting?the ancient ice is as deep into the crevice between the mountains as the Eiffel Tower is tall. So it would have been interesting to see and explore there. We saw hordes of people (tiny as ants in the far distance) hiking up to the fields of ice.

Hinton turned out to be a good deal farther away than we had thought it was. We finally pulled in here to register at 7 pm. Then we went and fueled up right away, and had wonderful fish & chips at Joey's right alongside Hwy 16 in Hinton.

Without a doubt, Hwy 1 north from Cochrane (west of Calgary, where we stayed last night) up through Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper is one of the 2-3 most beautiful drives I've ever taken in my 68 years. A feast for the eyes. The mountains along most of the road are very closeup, and ferociously massive. They jut straight up from the water-filled valleys and meadows, sometimes tree-covered and rounded but mostly huge piles of rock, with dramatic cliffs, pointed peaks, jagged spines, and upthrust ridges, with frequent huge waterfalls streaming like ribbons of satin down their sides.

Late today as we neared Hinton, we saw small groups of mountain goats, bighorn sheep, three caribou and lots of deer close to the road. Very fun...this was the first time we'd ever seen caribou in the wild.

Early to bed tonight. Tomorrow we'll wash the Rollin Home at a nearby truck wash place with big bays?our buggy is really buggy (pardon the pun!) and we?re absolutely covered with fine, sticky dust?I think the stickiness comes in part from all the pollens in the air. We also want to fix and adjust a side mirror that has been jarred loose a bit. We were on a stretch of road today for nearly 2 hours that was pure washboard...slowed us down to 30-35 mph, and even to 20 in a couple of spots. Good practice for Alaska roads, right?!

We?ll pick up a few groceries so we don?t have to buy anything in British Columbia or the Yukon Territory for the next 7-8 days between here and Tok, Alaska. Canadian prices are shockingly high?we stateside types take for granted what great food we get for such reasonable prices. Easy to spend $15-$20 Canadian on 3 items up here.

DH (that is, Don the Darlin Husband!) is busy figuring out mileage tomorrow to go north to Grand Prairie AB and on to Dawson Creek BC, and the start of the Alaska Highway.
 
Oops, sorry about having posted my June 9 story twice...duh! The second version is probably edited a bit and rewritten a bit. I'll try NOT to do that very often...the duplicate postings, that is!
 
Please do stop at a Canadian Tire Store somewhere (Grand Prairie, Dawson Creek, Fort St. John or the Walmarts there on the way north, and check for your plastic water jugs that you talked about earlier.  I'm sure I have seen them still for sale in "shockingly high priced Canada", but they won't be as much as the food.  ::)

Gord
 
Wednesday June 12, 2013

A day of leisure?a gift we gave ourselves after a long day of driving and travel yesterday. We stayed in Hinton an extra day, just to rest up before a couple of long days of driving tomorrow and Friday?to Dawson Creek BC tomorrow through Grand Prairie, and then to Fort Nelson the following day. At least 6 hours of driving each day.

We like the little town of Hinton?population 10,000. Nice place with some fun restaurants, lots of hotels/motels, this KOA RV park is wonderful, a big WalMart and three big grocery stores, decent fuel prices?and several large truck/RV wash spots to get the grime off before getting even grimier farther north.

So we slept in a bit this morning, and headed off after our oatmeal breakfast (our favorite!) to the Visitor Info Centre for some better maps of roads north of here, and a suggestion for a good hike so we can get exercise. Clouds are heavy, though, and it looks like storms later. It rained fairly hard overnight, and washed the Rollin Home quite well, so we set aside plans to wash the vehicle this morning. Decided not to waste the money right now. We?ll wash when we get up into Yukon Territory?we?ll be good and muddy then, we expect.

Our hike was at the Beaver Boardwalk, about 10 blocks from the Visitor Center. A large marshland and creeks are below Maxwell Lake in Hinton, with a number of beaver dams and beaver houses. Birds were singing, butterflies were fluttering, bugs were skittering across the ponds. But we saw no beavers. Darn. The boardwalk and paths are splendid, taking visitors nearly 1.5 miles around the area. There?s a great raised observation deck near one end of the park, where we patiently watched for some movement of critters for maybe 10 minutes?nothing at all but a couple of mallard ducks. Nonetheless, what a quiet, serene, beautiful place, in the middle of very nice residential neighborhoods. I was so surprised, though, to find NO frogs anywhere?no tadpoles either, in any of the shallows. Strange. A sign near the very end of the hike told us there were wood frogs in abundance, as well as several species of toads, but we saw none. I would have thought we?d see or hear at least one frog jumping into a pond from a log or plant near shore as we approached.

It?s a mildly cool day?probably about 50-52 degrees on our hike, with a bit of breeze?and you would have laughed seeing how differently Don & I were dressed. He?s always cold, so he had on a t-shirt, long-sleeved sun-protection shirt, many-pocketed vest, and a down-filled parka on top of it all. And as always, a hat with a wide brim. I was in a short-sleeved light cotton t-shirt, with bare arms, bare head, capri pants, and was happy as a clam feeling the coolness on my arms?perfect weather for me, and I take a fleece with me, but almost never end up wearing it. I guess I?m a real warm-blood!

Hinton has a neat little coffee house/restaurant called The Old Grind downtown on the main street?strangest main street we?ve ever seen, one block east of Hwy 16 that runs through town?that beckoned to us. We had terrific espresso?decaf latte for Don, which I took sips of, and chai tea latte for me?and shared a wonderful fresh salad of romaine, baby spinach, and other baby greens with feta cheese, sliced strawberries and chunks of fresh orange, with raspberry vinaigrette dressing. The perfect lunch.

We went to a bank after that to convert some more cash into Canadian currency, and shopped for food at the IGA to take us from here all the way to Tok, Alaska, coupled with our supplies in the RV. We?re set.

Tonight I?m making a fruit-laden green salad with chevre (goat cheese) much like we had for lunch, to which I?ll add some leftover chicken that needs eating. And for dessert, a frozen raspberry fruit bar that we got at a specialty meat store here called M&M Meats, part of a franchise chain of 400 meat stores in Canada. Interesting assortment of products.

Our agreement is to get up at 5 am, and start out early tomorrow so we see wildlife along the ?scenic route? on Hwy 40 north to Grand Prairie, and arrive at a reasonable hour at Dawson Creek. I?ve got the RV Park reserved and confirmed, so no worries there. But we hate being brain-dead if we?re arriving at dinnertime or after. Hope we see some more caribou along the way! I love their huge fuzzy antlers.

Just FYI for those who are reading my Daily Journals?I am now posting them on my Facebook page, too?go to Susan Alt on Facebook and you?ll find them?a few people said they disliked having to scroll all the way down to the end of my thread every day on RVForum.net to get to my latest post(s). So I thought this might help solve that problem.
 
Our idea of relaxation is to sit and post on RVForum, twitter and FaceBook, etc. Just killed 2.5 hours. I am getting a real kick out of reading DW's journals. Need to catchup.
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Wednesday June 12, 2013

?a few people said they disliked having to scroll all the way down to the end of my thread every day on RVForum.net to get to my latest post(s). So I thought this might help solve that problem.

All anyone has to do is to click on Show unread posts since last visit at the top of the RVForum messages and  that will take you to the most recent message within a thread that you have not read. No need to scroll through anything!
 
Thursday June 13, 2013

True to form, I slept fitfully last night, which I?ve always done prior to a ?big trip? the next day for which I had to arise early and get going quickly. I awoke at 4:30 am, boing!, eyes wide open. So I got up, without waking Don.

The twin mission of getting out early today: Make it to the RV campground in Dawson Creek BC reasonably early, and see lots of wildlife on the way by driving early in the morning. Faced with a 6-hour drive, mostly on 2-lane roads north of Hinton on the way to Grand Cache and Grand Prairie and finally, Dawson Creek, we thought this was the best strategy. I was brain-dead by 3:30, needless to say, and a bit cranky by dinnertime. Oh well?

We gulped our protein smoothies, ate our bananas, had big cups of fresh hot tea at our elbows, unhooked & dumped, and drove out at 6:29 am. Wow! For us that is history-making! Made a quick stop at the local IGA to get 2 things I had forgotten, and were on our way. Fortunately, a large construction truck was just ahead of us, and I stayed in back of him all the way to Grand Prairie, to let him hit the deer or elk or caribou on our behalf! We had spits of rain, lots of low-hanging clouds to drive through when visibility went to 5 feet, and finally, heavy rain as we neared Dawson City. Wildlife? Four deer scampering close to the road?s shoulder early in the day. We struck out.

Stopped at Grand Prairie to fuel up, and had brunch and coffee at 11:15?eggs & bacon for me, oatmeal for Don. Then, back on the road.

Dawson City is Mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway. Not a thrilling town, but an interesting one. There were a few pretty views of hills and valleys along the way, but nothing breathtaking. Fertile farmland. Lots of trees in places. And lots of timbered-out (clear-cut) areas stretching for miles, since this is big lumber country. Plenty of oil and gas wells. Dawson City itself has a pioneer village, which we skipped due to heavy rain. Instead, we dashed into the town?s Art Gallery in the converted grain elevator. A few good pieces, vastly overpriced for what they were, but mostly low-grade student-quality work on exhibit. Ho hum. Next door was a cute little bakery for which we had a 1-%-off coupon, so we zipped in and bought a couple of very good oatmeal-raisin cookies and 4 fresh-made granola bars to put in our backpacks for hikes.

The rain had tapered to drips, so we went to the downtown Alaska Highway House, a small museum dedicated to the Army troops who constructed the Alcan in 1942 and 1943, against all odds, literally moving heaven and earth to push through the wilderness to establish a vital connection so Alaska could be protected from the Japanese. It is a great place! We spent the rest of the afternoon there, watching the movie, reading everything, and deciding to stop at critical points along the highway in coming days to do a bit of hiking and celebrate the remarkable feat that was accomplished for the country?s protection, in the astonishingly short time of only 8 months!

Perhaps I had once known that the Japanese actually attacked and conquered 2 of the Aleutian Islands off the coast of Alaska, during 1942, but I had long forgotten that fact. We retook those islands from the Japanese in 1943, after the highway was completed. But by then, other war news had completely eclipsed news of the wondrous accomplishment of the Alcan Highway?s construction and usefulness.

Caterpillar bulldozers were as much the stars of the heroic Alcan effort as the men who built the highway. Reading the wall plaques and watching the video recounting the massive project, Don my DH proudly said, ?Peoria made this highway possible! We could never have done this without Caterpillar equipment!? As the son of a career Caterpillar engineer?a Cat-Brat, as they say in Peoria?Don was mighty impressed with the critical role of dozens of enormous, indestructible and powerful Caterpillar bulldozers that forced their way through hundreds of miles of thick forests, over mountains and through valley bogs to create a 2-vehicle-wide trail that could carry military supplies and munitions.

Northern Lights RV Park is very nice. Good price, great bathrooms and showers (although the showers cost $1 for 3 minutes), and fairly level gravel pull-throughs. It?s outside of Dawson City a couple of miles, on a hill, and most sites are well away from the main highway. Good breezes. Naturally, the skies are clear and sunny now that we?re parked for the night. Quick picnic-style dinner tonight?going to bed early. Don is a happy camper watching the NBA finals, with the Spurs and Heat tied right now at the end of the first half.

Tomorrow, on to Fort Nelson BC, another fairly long day. Today and tomorrow are our 2 longest drives of this trip. Supposedly after we pass Fort St. John at about the halfway point, we?re out of cultivated farmlands and into the wilderness, and ?the adventure really begins,? according to the guidebooks. We?ll see about that. Yeah, I?ve agreed to get up early again tomorrow, but I guarantee it won?t be 4:30 or 5 am! I?m retired, for heaven?s sake, and I shouldn?t have to do that any more!

We spoke to some folks from Minnesota today who are RVing it, also, and who never make any reservations anywhere on their trips. I?m just not comfortable doing that?I like to know where I?m ending up, and not end up having to take some lousy site at a lousy RV park just because it?s late in the day and I didn?t plan ahead. If we want to stop for a hike, or a lunch, or an afternoon nap along the way, I want to be able to do that without worrying that I won?t arrive at my destination by 3 pm to get a decent site for the night at the place where I?d prefer to stay.

On that note, I confirmed our RV park reservations for all nights from the 15th through the 20th?We can always cancel if we want to go with the flow and change our minds while on the move.

Night all!
 
If you like to drive at 50 to 60 mph through trees, that's mostly the trip from Dawson City to Ft. Nelson. We love the boring drives, but not the worrying about fuel. We should have topped off in DC, but we didn't. We bought 12 litres for over $6.50 at Pink Mountain's Husky station. That got us to Ft. Nelson where we filled at Fas Gas for abt $5.55/gal. Had four gallons to spare when we got here.

At the campground, we were told we bought from the highest priced joint in town. Oh well. More to come from Susan who is happily visiting with neighbors.
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Dawson City is Mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway.  we went to the downtown Alaska Highway House, a small museum dedicated to the Army troops who constructed the Alcan in 1942 and 1943, against all odds
Yeah, I?ve agreed to get up early again tomorrow, but I guarantee it won?t be 4:30 or 5 am! I?m retired, for heaven?s sake, and I shouldn?t have to do that any more!
I confirmed our RV park reservations for all nights from the 15th through the 20th?We can always cancel if we want to go with the flow and change our minds while on the move.

I'm so glad you got to the Alaska Hwy House.  I meant to tell you about it because it was our favorite place in Dawson Creek, which is a whole different place from Dawson City, the beginning of the Top of the World Highway--the world's most awful highway, in my opinion.

We aren't early risers either, but getting up  early is so worth it if you get a fabulous wildlife day.  Wouldn't it be nice if we could talk those wild critters to sleep in, but, alas, we can't.

To reserve or not reserve is always the question.  I do all the planning of our trips.  We usually reserve one or two nights ahead, and we haven't had any awful experiences.  On this trip, however, I felt it was imperative to make a reservation at Denali a year ahead because the  RV parks outside the National Park sounded horrible.  Dean yelled at me, a big no-no, so he's doing all the planning on this trip.  I sure hope I was wrong.  We'll see in less than a week.  Not all places are willing to change your reservation if you change your mind while on the move.  Some will charge you for one night's fee.

Happy trails, Linda
 
I love Lamar Valley!  If I've got my info correct and remember correctly, the most Grizzlies are in that area.  They also have a couple of tucked away campgrounds where only your 25' RV would fit.  They are fun campgrounds as lots of wildlife is in that area.

We'll be in the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone at some point this summer, just not sure when.

Marsha~
 
Friday June 14, 2013

Long drive today?300 miles of delightfully boring wilderness. This REALLY sweeps the cobwebs out of the brain! After a few miles of rolling farmland north of Dawson Creek BC, we were in real wilderness. Nothing as far as the eye could see, except for a few logging trucks coming from logged-out areas and a few oil & gas fields with wells and some workers.

As the troops who were building the Alaska Highway in 1942 said, ?just hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of miles of thick trees, with some big valleys and rivers cutting through.?

Every couple of miles we saw signs warning of elk and moose and ?Danger! Wildlife!? but other than a couple of scampering deer we saw no wildlife except ourselves?and we ARE wild, but not THAT wild! Drat.

We left early and arrived early at Fort Nelson BC, pulling into the Triple G Hideaway RV Park for the night. And the sun came out! Whattdya know! We had driven through 9 rainstorms during the day, with heavy clouds and spits in between. Some of those were hard downpours, which we hoped would wash the grime off the Rollin Home, but no luck. It picked up as much mud and grime as the rain washed off. In either Watson Lake or Whitehorse, we?ll wash the buggy and get ready for Alaska.

We learned yesterday what all the books about the Alaska Highway mean when they say to slow down a LOT when you see a sign telling you to slow down. The downhill grades into the river valleys are often 9% and 10%....and though we live in the mountains and are quite accustomed to steep grades of 6-8%, I gotta tell you, grades of 9-10% are really steep, and fast. The Rolling Hoe with its Mercedes diesel engine, has a wonderful downshift capability, and going down to 2nd gear really holds the speed in check, even on steep grades like this. Good vehicle?we?re glad we got it!

The Triple G Hideaway fees are reasonable for overnights, but the charges for laundry are $3 a load, and for showers $1.50 for 3 minutes. Glad our clothes don?t need washing and our bodies are clean! The Triple G?s little restaurant was offering a prime rib ?special? for $23 a plate?sounds pretty outrageous to me. I think I?ll cook at home tonight.

The RV park is right alongside the visitor information center, though, which is great, and the little Fort Nelson Museum, which is a kick. While the sun was out and the weather fresh and beautiful, we walked next door to see what we could see. Tons of old stuff from the gold rush days of the late 19th century through to the roadbuilding days of the 40s?ancient typewriters, iceboxes, saws, sewing machines, clothes washers, ancient iceboxes, even outboard marine motors from the 30s and 40s. Lots of wonderful old cars and buggies, ranging from an old Model A Ford and a surrey with fringe on top, to a bunch of Studebakers from the 40s and 50s?some in terrific condition. A shiny black 1954 Packard touring car much like the one my parents went to Europe in in 1955 with some relatives from Grand Rapids MI.

AND, best of all, some of the original Caterpillar tractors used to build the Alcan Highway during WWII?had to get pictures of them, and pics of Don standing by these behemoths.

It was easy to imagine these giant machines plowing through the thick forests, taking down huge old-growth trees as if they were toothpicks, after seeing the movie in Dawson Creek about the Alcan Highway construction. It was also fascinating the imagine them stuck in 20-foot deep ?muskeg??thousands of years of piled-up moss, needles, leaves and foliage that turns into a kind of quicksand soup in these parts when the snow and permafrost melts in the spring?and tons of sticky mud. Those poor guys who were building this road! What a heroic job they did!

We had met a couple from Minnesota with a fifth-wheel trailer at Dawson Creek?Dale and Jane?and saw them several times along the way yesterday while stopping for fuel. They are at the Triple G Hidewaway alongside us, and we compared notes and plans last evening after dinner. We had planned to have Happy Hour and dinner together outdoors at our picnic table, but the skies clouded and heavy rain was pouring down (again!!) by dinnertime after we had gone through the museum. They might join us for 2 days of dry-camping at Muncho Lake, which is said to be absolutely gorgeous.

Don filled the water tank halfway last night before we tumbled into bed at 8 pm?get that, 8 pm??!! We?re acting more like campers now, aren?t we?!

We?re going to be up early tomorrow to drive the 3? hours to Muncho Lake?the Provincial Park campgrounds tends to fill up and it?s first come, first serve so we?d like to be there early to get a decent spot.





 
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