Pluging in my class c into my house
- Thread starter wa-lu
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Wigpro
Well-known member
You fail to mention whether you have 30 amp or 50 amp on your RV, a class C I am assuming it is 30 amp....The safest way would be to have an electrician wire a separate 30 amp RV plug somewhere convenient. But I use an adapter and just use a heavy extension cord to keep my fridge up and small freezer up and cold with no problems. Try and keep the cord length to a minimum and only have on what you want to run....make sure there are not many other things on that circuit in the house....
But it works....
Jim
But it works....
Jim
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,256
Sure - just get a 30 to 20 amp adapter and an orange extension cord if needed. But be aware that you won't be able to run the air conditioner or any other high draw appliance while you're plugged into the smaller circuit. Lights and such are OK, though.
Or you can just switch the refrigerator to "gas" operation and not plug in. It uses very little propane and a little current from your house battery, not enough from either to worry about for a day or two.
In any case, make sure your RV is level while the refrigerator is turned on. It doesn't matter when you're going down the road because the motion keeps any air pockets broken up so the coolant can circulate properly. But running the refrigerator off level while stationary is a great way to ruin the cooling unit.
Or you can just switch the refrigerator to "gas" operation and not plug in. It uses very little propane and a little current from your house battery, not enough from either to worry about for a day or two.
In any case, make sure your RV is level while the refrigerator is turned on. It doesn't matter when you're going down the road because the motion keeps any air pockets broken up so the coolant can circulate properly. But running the refrigerator off level while stationary is a great way to ruin the cooling unit.
Wigpro
Well-known member
wa-lu said:
Make sure the electrician knows you want an RV plug and not a dryer or some other plug...
Jim
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Wigpro's advice is extremely important! Most residential electricians will assume a 30A outlet should be 220v/240v, as for a water heater or dryer. That will do major damage to your RV! Make sure the electrician understands the outlet should be 30A and 120v and make sure he uses the RV-compatible TT-30R outlet and not the similar-looking NEMA 10-30.
This web page explains how a 30A home outlet should be wired (select the 30A item from the left side of the page):
http://www.myrv.us/electric/
Meanwhile, I think you will find that the standard 15 or 20A household outlet will do what you want with the fridge.
This web page explains how a 30A home outlet should be wired (select the 30A item from the left side of the page):
http://www.myrv.us/electric/
Meanwhile, I think you will find that the standard 15 or 20A household outlet will do what you want with the fridge.
Unless you intend to run a high amperage appliance like the AC unit while plugged in at home all you need is a standard 120VAC 15/20 amp circuit. I have been plugged into a standard 15 amp circuit for at least 35 years with no ill effects. But I use it only for keeping the batteries hot and running the refer when we are getting ready to go.
Joezeppy
Well-known member
Not really any new info here but we plugged our TT into a regular outlet for years to run the fridge, lights, etc. We do not have A/C in the house, however, so I finally installed a 30 amp outlet so we could spend those sweltering nights out in the TT. As others have said, except for the A/C and maybe electric water heater, a standard household circuit will work for you.
But be aware that you won't be able to run the air conditioner or any other high draw appliance while you're plugged into the smaller circuit.
Not true, Lou. I've had my MH plugged into a 20 amp service many times and ran the AC OR the microwave with no problems.
Not true, Lou. I've had my MH plugged into a 20 amp service many times and ran the AC OR the microwave with no problems.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
When I had a house I put in a TT-30 with a 20 amp feed.. Worked for one AC or one Space heater or one .. Well you get the idea.. ONE.
scottydl
Site Team
OP's question... not only is your questioned scenario possible (as you discovered), but recommended to keep a parked RV plugged in. This keeps the fridge cold with very little current, and also keeps house batteries topped off... a better scenario than having them sit unused for weeks at a time. I also used to always leave a trickle charger connected to my chassis (engine) battery as well, so it would be fully charged and ready to go.
It's not that you CAN'T, but you run the risk of overloading/melting your extension cord (if using a standard orange household type) and/or other power connections somewhere along the line. The microwave should be fine... those run off of household current all the time. A single rooftop A/C may be okay for limited periods of time, but the compressor start-up and cooling cycles can easily exceed the recommended capacity of household extension cords. Avoiding electrical fires is a good thing.
wackymac said:
It's not that you CAN'T, but you run the risk of overloading/melting your extension cord (if using a standard orange household type) and/or other power connections somewhere along the line. The microwave should be fine... those run off of household current all the time. A single rooftop A/C may be okay for limited periods of time, but the compressor start-up and cooling cycles can easily exceed the recommended capacity of household extension cords. Avoiding electrical fires is a good thing.
