How to change a tire on a 30 foot travel trailer

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jim and di

jim and di

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Joined
Aug 9, 2009
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Sun Citu, Hilton Head, SC
A friend stopped by yesterday. He has a 30 foot TT and we got to the discussion of tires. His are over 10 years old and he was going to buy new ones. He wasn't sure how to change them and he keeps the rig in northern NH so he doesn't want to tow to a tire place. The question he asked was how do I jack up the trailer. The leveling jacks are not strong enough to lift.
Seemed to me all he needed to do was block the other side front and back and jack one side at a time with a bottle jack and block the axle and change the tire and rim. Loosing the lugs before jacking of course.
Any other ideas I have not done this and just am using boat knowledge to a TT.
Jim
 
With a small investment in jack stands or cement blocks he could probably remove all 4 wheels and take them to a tire place in one trip.

Apart from that, I think you have the method down pretty good!!!
 
as said jack stands or blocks, Or put down a couple 2x6s infront or behind the wheels on one axle and pull it up on the blocks and the other 2 tires should be off the ground,
 
Alfa38User said:
With a small investment in jack stands or cement blocks he could probably remove all 4 wheels and take them to a tire place in one trip.

Apart from that, I think you have the method down pretty good!!!
Click to expand...

I don't think I would use cement blocks, They could break if they are not a smooth solid surface.
 
Don't even thing of using the stabilizers to try to lift a 30' trailer.  Frame damage will result.  Use a good quality floor jack, raise the trailer by the axle, and use 6 ton jack stands (Harbor Freight tools, $30) to support the axle once it's in the air.  I recommend doing one side at a time.  And yes, bust the lug nuts loose prior to lifting it. 
 
I've had  my 35' 5th up om cement blocks while I've changed my brakes and greased my bearings.  Make sure the holes are up and down and place a 2x8 on the block.  They have been using cement blocks for years under mobile homes to level them.
 
kjansen said:
I've had  my 35' 5th up om cement blocks while I've changed my brakes and greased my bearings.  Make sure the holes are up and down and place a 2x8 on the block.  They have been using cement blocks for years under mobile homes to level them.
Click to expand...
Besides the 2 x 8, the trick is to NOT use cinder (haydite) blocks.  They can crumble in a heartbeat, even with the 2 x 8.
 
I am posting a note for the questionnaire,

Great info Jim!

I have CMU's (cement blocks) under the stabilizers and can use them.  The caution to use them with cores vertical with wood to prevent pressure point fractures is well noted. Lumber dunnage is always safer though. I have lots of that too.Two 6 TON Jacks for the axles and an appropriate hydraulic jack.  Now having a better handle on the dynamics involved, I will adapt this info to best suit my application.

Thanks

Paul

(feel free to post this to the forum contributors with my thanks.)
 
No matter what style jack you use, make sure you jack and support the axle directly under the springs. If you place the jack too close to the center of the axle, you could permanently bend the axle. Try and put the bottle jack as close as you can towards the drum, then support the axle with blocks under the spring U-Bolts.
 
I would highly suggest using rated jack stands for that purpose. I wouldn't suggest or even use a cinder block for jack stands just too risky safety wise and also damaging wise to the RV if it should tip over from a failed block. But like all trailers they are designed to be jack up and have the jack stand as close to the spring hangers as possible using 4 jack stand.
 
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