Can anyone visually identify this roof?

I'm a new member--just joined after reading all the great info on EPDM coatings v other coatings.  Here's my predicament.  The documentation for my 92 Itasca Suncruiser says the roof is "Pebbled Fiberglass."  Whoops, back up.  I should say the documentation was handed down from the original owners.  We are the FOURTH owners of this RV which is leaking badly.  So, when I crawled up the ladder and looked at it, it really looks more like a coating to me.  Does anyone know what pebbled fiberglass looks like?  My roof has what looks a little like broom strokes on it.  Maybe a previous owner has already coated with who-knows-what?  I'm thinking I might use liquid roof, but will have to use the recommended primer first in case the previous coating is incompatible and would react with epdm.  Of course, if it IS the original pebbled fiberglass, I could skip the primer and save some $.  Thoughts?

There are several ways to determine what the roof material is, but one easy way to determine if it is EPDM is to remove the plastic trim from a vent on the inside ceiling.  If EPDM, you will see where the rubber has been cut and is folded down the four sides of the vent cutout.

It definitely looks like it has been re-coated to me.  Maybe someone here with that vintage Itasca can identify the original material.

I don't see anything in the photos that definitely says that re-coating is immediately required.  I would look closely at all the caulked seams and areas for the source of your leak.  Unless you see tears/rips in the material, I doubt that it leaks through the coating.  Fixing any seams around vents and pipes is going to be necessary prior to re-coating anyway, so do it first.  Use Dicor lap sealant and Eternabond tape as necessary.

Molaker said:

There are several ways to determine what the roof material is, but one easy way to determine if it is EPDM is to remove the plastic trim from a vent on the inside ceiling.  If EPDM, you will see where the rubber has been cut and is folded down the four sides of the vent cutout.

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That's true Tom, but that doesn't really identify the material as EPDM.  If the material is white/beige on top over a black membrane, then it's EPDM.  If the material is white all the way through then it is TPO.  I don't think they were using TPO in '92, so it's most likely EPDM, if it's "rubber" at all.

Thank you both.  Molaker, I did as you suggested and removed the inner trim from the roof vent.  The vent itself is so well sized to the opening that there is no gap into which I can look.  Of course, I will take your advise and do the dicor and eternabond first.  It might stop the immediate problem and buy time.  And as you point out, it's part of the prep anyway.  I'm thinking that at age 60 I need to get up there and coat the whole thing in the next couple of years, though.  It will probably need it by the time I'm 70 and then I might not be as agile.

Just Lou, there is a white "skin" that I could peel off a little, sort of like sunburned skin--not exactly flexible, not exactly brittle.  Under that, it's black.  A LIQUID epdm coating wouldn't look like that, would it?  So maybe someone put a whole new roof membrane on years ago?  Except that still wouldn't explain what looks like broom strokes.  Unless someone got carried away with a pressure washer and removed some of the white layer and I'm seeing wand strokes instead of broom/brush strokes.  Looked for pebbled fiberglass roof in Google images and nothing looks like what I've got.  Sigh. 

So, is TPO the only roof/coating that is going to cause problems with epdm?  And does that black layer mean I probably don't have TPO?  And of course, I understand that I act at my own risk.

My 'explanation' seems to have caused 'confusion'.

If you had a TPO roof there would not be any black under it.  TPO is like a white sheet of rubber.  You have an EPDM roof witch comes new with a white coating on a black membrane.  The white coating wears away over several years, leaving the black membrane exposed.  This does NOT mean that the roof actually requires attention, but most of us want to restore the white look so a coating is usually applied.

From your description of the peeling away of the white "skin", I strongly suspect that it's a coating that a previous owner applied.  Liquid EPDM would (should) have bonded with the original EPDM (actually coalesced with the old epdm) and would never peel off.  The product used could be one of many brands of roofing sealer/coatings.  I would probably try to remove as much of it as possible with a stiff scrub brush during prep for a new coating.  You definitely need to remove any loose material.

I don't have enough experience to recommend specific products or procedures for the final coat.  I used a product called Liquid Roof, and it turned out fine.

Thanks.  It seems like the most sensible way to proceed is to scrub and seal well with lap sealant and eternabond, then prime only the areas that showed evidence of peeling (actually it was more like tiny round pits-- or to continue the sunburn analogy, broken blisters-- that allowed me to get a fingernail under and peel it), just in case that previous coating doesn't want to bond with the Liquid Roof that I will use for the coating which may not be strictly necessary-- except that a uniform surface is easier to clean and assess on an ongoing basis. My main concern had come from product reviews that warned against using Liquid Roof over TPO.  Less concern now that the evidence seems to point to an epdm roof which may however have had a non-epdm coating added in some areas.  I sure appreciate the help. 

I would get some Acetone and apply it to a rag and rub a small area.  The Acetone will NOT harm Fiberglass or EDPM rubber.  I used it on my EDPM roof prior to applying Eternabond tape to ALL roof penetrations and end caps.  If it is some cheap coating like used on Mobile Homes it will start to soften and you will be able to get down to the original roof.  If it is Fiberglass, you should not need to re-coat it at all for leaks, just take care of all the penetrations.
I would also check any running lights and window caulking as they are a common cause of leaks.  The best way to seal them is to remove each assembly and start from scratch with butyl tape and a clean surface and fixture.  Apply an RV Caulk to the top and sides to protect the butyl tape and make it look good.

Personally I do not like the Lap Sealants as they require continuous inspection and repair.  Eternabond is the only way to go in my experience for a permanent repair baring any actual physical damage to the roof.

Thank you, Sundancer.  I already have acetone on hand, and as soon as it quits pouring down rain here, I'll give it a go.  Someone had recommended that I coat with Kool-Seal.  I had read enough to know that I wouldn't want to coat that over an EPDM roof (unless they make a compatible formula that I don't know about.)  That doesn't mean that a previous owner might not have done so.  If they did, perhaps the acetone will take it off.  Acetone is cheaper than epdm primer.  So if it works, it will save some money. 

Someone had recommended that I coat with Kool-Seal.  I had read enough to know that I wouldn't want to coat that over an EPDM roof (unless they make a compatible formula that I don't know about.)

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Kool Seal RV Rubber Roof Coat is the product made for EPDM roofs. They also make an RV roof primer.

Thank you, Gary.  I've already got the Liquid Roof and am ready to roll.  It's good to know about the Kool Seal, though.  With seven adult children who are all ready to graduate from tent-camping next to Ma's to buying their own used RV's, the information will be handy to them when they make their purchases and restorations. 

I'm gonna be a wet blanket. If you have Alpa(Alfa?) brand EPDM you absolutely need to prime, Liquid Roof will ruin Alpha EPDM. I can't link on a WII browser but there is a tech bulletin on Proguard's site about this.
  The grain on the roof might be an acrylic roof coating put on with a brush?

Bill

Well, it looks like RVers are pretty smart, when we put our heads together!

It finally has stopped raining long enough to try the acetone.  It softens the coating somewhat, but only enough to remove half-inch diameter circles in a few places where it appears that a previous bubble might have broken and formed tiny craters. The rest of the area got a little tacky, but wouldn't come off--it's stuck like, well, like a faded decal.  The MAGIC of the acetone was that it cleaned a small area well enough to reveal that the black layer below the white layer was not EPDM but  D-I-R-T.  Note to self:  the roof will not take care of itself.  Clean it regularly.

As removal of the coating seems difficult if not impossible, a thorough cleaning and scuffing was in order before any attempts to re-coat.  Delighted with my results with Zep floor finish on the sides of the RV, I decided to give their version of simple green a try for cleaning the roof.  It worked great, and revealed even more.  Once the dirt was off, I could see that the coating is so thin in some places that you can actually see the pebbled fiberglass.  So yes, it appears that those are brush strokes from an owner-applied coating over the fiberglass (possibly without cleaning or prepping.)  I was also able to see where the fiberglass has a small puncture which is the likely source of most of the interior water damage.  The scrubbing also allowed me to identify a place where the fiberglass was not sealed along the ridge where it meets with the wall. 

Eternabond will likely take care of the leaks.  But as I already have spent the money on the liquid roof, I might as well also topcoat it.  It will look better, be more cleanable, allow easier inspection, and if the underlying fiberglass has any cracks, it will probably take care of those, too.  At any rate, I get to think about that for a while before taking any action because it's getting ready to rain.  Or as we say here, "fixin'" to rain.  Again. 

Everyone's insight has been valuable, and I'm still listening and learning.  Thanks.

I am concerned about what failed to cause the leaks!  Also what the ends of the rafters might be looking like, so be very cautious when stepping near the apparent leak area.