Set-Up Issues & Questions

I finally set the Rockwood up in the campground/marina where I'll be staying until late spring/early summer of 2014. Then, if all goes according to plan, I'll be headed for Maine. Being new to full-timing & RV living in general, I'm quickly learning all sorts of neat things. Even though I've set the Rockwood up, I won't be living in it for another week or two, I should have already been in it, but I'm having issues beyond my control here...making it difficult & stressful, to say the least. Just knowing my Rockwood is now set up & ready to live in, is all that's keeping me sane, at this point!

I keep the the AC set at 77* while I'm not there (Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I'll bump it up to 80* next time I'm there) I cut the water off when I leave, in the event of a leak. I wouldn't want to return to a flooded, ruined trailer (I cut the hot water tank off, and to be double safe, also switched the hot water breaker to "OFF" as well) I've got some issues I need to address.

Issue #1; Stinky-slinky set up. The sewer connection is about 30 feet from the trailer connection. That's for the black & gray water. The galley has its own holding tank, which is a lot closer to the back of the trailer, hence, a lot closer to the sewer connection. I have to buy a "Y" connection for that.  I have two 15 ft. sidewinders (one was included with the trailer) The connection on the trailer isn't very high off the ground, Compared to some other trailers I looked at. Due to the distance to the ground connection, the slinky is retaining a full load, pun intended ;D  As a result, the black water tank is still  2/3 full after emptying.  I ran a hose through the bathroom window & down the toilet. I flushed the tank for about 15 minutes. No noticeable difference.

I'm going to buy one of those connections made of clear plastic, with a water hose connection port to assist with draining & also to back-flush the black water tank  Does anyone think that alone will solve, or at least help, my situation? Suggestions?

Another issue, if it's an issue at all; My AC unit, which is cooling very well, and to my surprise, isn't running non-stop, but actually cycling with the thermostat set at 71*-72* (While I'm there) and is blowing 42* at the vents with exterior temps in the mid to upper 80s & high humidity) which is far better than I had hoped for. My concern, the AC is draining onto the flat rooftop. The RV is level. The water eventually rolls to the back of the roof, spreads out into a large, VERY shallow puddle, for lack of a better word, surrounds the rear vent & steadily drips/runs-off at the left rear corner.

The main power cord is RIGHT under this water run-off. The cover to the power connection deflects the majority of the water. The cord coupler has a locking ring, so, I feel like the water shouldn't pose any issue regarding the power connection. Pretty much the same thing as being rained on. My real concern, one, that the water is collecting on the roof, around the vent, and, as it runs over the corner edge it also trickles down the corner trim, and rubber roof edge. Over time, I fear it may begin to leak, making its way inside the walls, roof, etc. I imagine, on hot, sunny days, a lot of the water will evaporate fairly fast, but, that still leaves the nights.

Shouldn't there be at least one drain pipe somewhere on the AC unit pan? I noticed two plastic, or PVC pipe ends, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter, protruding from the belly, close to the freshwater tank's drain valve. Could any one, or perhaps both of these be drains for the AC run-off? I know the drain for the house has to be blown clean every other year or so. I would bet, if this unit has a drain/drains, it's never been cleaned.

So, perhaps I need to remove the AC unit cover & have a looksee? I have a portable air compressor, so, if there is a drainage system, I can blow some compressed air though, no problem. I'm going to end this here, and over the next few days post my other questions separately. This way, I won't have too may different topics in the same thread. Thanks!

AGENT86 said:

I'm going to buy one of those connections made of clear plastic, with a water hose connection port to assist with draining & also to back-flush the black water tank  Does anyone think that alone will solve, or at least help, my situation? Suggestions?

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I have one of those clear thingys and it doesn't work for me and I have never heard of it actually working for anyone. You should put the hose down the toilet and watch the output (the only real use for the clear thingy) until it runs clear.

I'm going to end this here, and over the next few days post my other questions separately. This way, I won't have too may different topics in the same thread. Thanks!

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You have way too many questions for this thread. It should be broken up into several smaller threads.

I would suggest you not run the A/C if not there for long periods (read weeks). It cost me 600$ to find that out on my basement A/C.  If humidity is a perceived  problem, use a bucket or two of Damp-Rid inside (Walmart).  Most roof A/C simply drain from a hole in the pan onto the roof. If need be, a small bead of caulk across the roof might redirect some of the run-off away from the electric connection perhaps.

I would also suggest you set up the sewer connections using a 3" plastic pipe instead of the stinky-slinky if you are staying there for that long. The slinkies will deteriorate in the sun over time .  Y connections and maintaining a slope to the drain will be a lot easier too. (My connections are also very low to the ground!!!) It looks like your "rinse" will need to be at least a half tank of clear water to move that stuff along (Close the tank drain and partly fill/fill the tank then re-open the valve.)

It is usual from RV a/c to drain onto the roof - only very high end models incorporate a condensation pump and drain.  I suggest you alter the level of the RV a tiny bit to get it to drain to some more convenient side. It only takes a fraction of an inch to convince the water to travel elsewhere. If you want to add a condensate pump, Coleman Mach (airxcel) has one available for some of their a/c models and I think Dometic may as well. You would have to provide a drain tube across the roof and down one side, which is easy enough in a fixed site but not so easy if the RV travels around.

The sewer hose being full is not an issue. In some ways it is a good thing, since it acts as a P-trap to prevent any odors or bugs from returning from the septic system into your RV tank. Water in the hose does NOT prevent  the tank from emptying - that is strictly a matter of the height of the tank vs the height of the drain pipe. If the bottom of the tank is as high or higher than the top of the sewer drain pip;e, it will empty fully. The "Water seeks its own level" rule applies, always. I suspect what you are seeing is that the gauge is inaccurate, which is a very normal state. Sludge or paper collects on the sensors in the tank and cause false readings. There are ways to cleanse them, but the problem returns. I'll leave that for another discussion, or you can search on 'black tank sensor' or 'black tank gauge' to find the numerous previous discussions.

Sounds like you are getting all your ducks in order....

Re: the A/C dripping water, I've seen expensive big rigs with a plastic hose on the A/C that diverted the condensation off the roof to a more desirable area.  I would think the water pooling on your roof would not be the best thing.  Maybe you could do something like that.

Re: the long sewer hose, instead of a "slinky" type of thing,  people sometimes use plastic gutters on a slope supported with different heights of pieces of wood or rocks to get the slope they are looking for.  They probably make solid sewer hose supports, but I haven't seen them.  Like Alfa38user says, that will give good support.

I would keep the A/C on at the higher temp.  It won't run as hard and will have less chance of freezing up.  I actually don't think you'll have a problem with freezing up at the 80 degree point.

Marsha~

I have mine set up also.

Hard piped the sewer and highly reccomend it.  I do have a clear elbow at the exit so I can watch the dump process. and verify water color so to speak.

We leave our AC on and set at 80 when not present.  I (as suggested earlier) altered my level by a fraction so the water drains on the back side and away from any electrical outlets etc.  Back when I had a Pop up camper and would camp for a week or more.  I would lay a cotton rope around the AC unit and down the side of the camper.  The condensation would wick down the rope all the way to the ground.  This kept the water off the canvas and directed the water to a desireable location for draining.

BigDfromTN said:

I have mine set up also.

Hard piped the sewer and highly reccomend it.  I do have a clear elbow at the exit so I can watch the dump process. and verify water color so to speak.

We leave our AC on and set at 80 when not present.  I (as suggested earlier) altered my level by a fraction so the water drains on the back side and away from any electrical outlets etc.  Back when I had a Pop up camper and would camp for a week or more.  I would lay a cotton rope around the AC unit and down the side of the camper.  The condensation would wick down the rope all the way to the ground.  This kept the water off the canvas and directed the water to a desireable location for draining.

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I'm going to hard-pipe the sewer ASAP! I incorporated your cotton rope idea,  it works like a champ! THANKS!