Water Pressure Is Too Low

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AGENT86

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Jan 21, 2013
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WNC @ 3400 ft...Annd loving it
Having a slight issue with the water pressure/flow in my Rockwood. Now, when I was checking it out, prior to purchase, the original owners connected it to their garden hose (at the City Water" connection on the tt) The pressure was weak, and had air pockets. They told me once the air was purged out, the pressure would be good. I had no reason to doubt them, but, may have been mistaken.

I installed a "fixed" pressure regulator, which is advertised to keep the incoming pressure between 45-55 psi. Also, installed a water filter at the spicket. Flow/pressure is very strong coming from the spicket, so, I know there is no problem at that end. Also, the pressure issue was there BEFORE I installed the filter & regulator, which really didn't affect the inside pressure at all, not worse, not better. Just the same.

First thing I did, was to remove the screen/aerator on the kitchen & bathroom faucet. Pressure from the bathroom sink was much better without the aerator/screen, very strong. The kitchen faucet, however, was no better. I put wide-mouth plastic bottle under the kitchen faucet (Without the aerator, the water runs/sprays outward & down, so I can't use the kitchen sink without the aerator in place) I got a LOT of crud from the faucet. It was rather large (and small) chunks of  white/gray colored deposits, reminded me or calcium, or something one might find on the bottom of a gravely stream.

I filled the bottle up about 10-12 X, until it ran clean. I re-installed the areator assembly, and, pressure was much better, but still not great, for a couple minutes. I went through the same process a few X, but, the pressure is still terrible. It will start off great, then, slow down to what amounts to a bit more than a dribbly trickle, within 5-10 seconds. Same thing with the bathtub/shower, and the toilet hasn't got the best pressure, either.

I found no water leaks anywhere. The hose is not kinked or obstructed. The only faucet that has good pressure, is the bathroom sink. I have a theory, that whatever that debris was/is, has built up at all the faucets. where the water pipe/hose connects. What I think I need to do, is remove the whole assembly & clean them out from the point of entry & wherever the debris had accumulated. Does this sound like it mat be the cause/solution?

I know the original owners spent their camping time at different RV parks/campgrounds. They never connected a water filter that I know of. This debris may be from one, or all the different campgrounds, or, possible from the hot water tank or on-board fresh water tank?

ALSO; Unrelated, but, I think I ruined my freshwater pump, the one for the on-board water tank (unrelated to city-water connection). I turned it on & off, maybe six or seven X, TOTAL. No more than 4-5 seconds each time. I used to hear it, now, the toggle switch lights up, but no pump sounds. The tank is empty, totally dry. If it has a rubber impeller, I may have caused it to get hot & stick to the sides of the housing, or, running dry put too much strain on the pump motor & burnt it up. IDK. I'll have to look into it at a later date, once I settle in. If it's rebuildable, I can do that, no problem. I just wonder how easily accessible the pump is?

My #1 issue, though, is the water pressure.So, any input, will be very much appreciated.




 
Your city water inlet typically has a screen and a check valve behind it.  Make sure the screen is not clogged (it usually is a small convex cup of screen with a rubber grommet around it).  Replace it while you have it out.  Behind the screen there s/b a small plastic pin or shaft in the center.  This is part of the check valve.  Push it in to see if the check valve is free to open.  If not, you may have to replace the inlet (cheap and easy fix).
 
Molaker said:
Your city water inlet typically has a screen and a check valve behind it.  Make sure the screen is not clogged (it usually is a small convex cup of screen with a rubber grommet around it).  Replace it while you have it out.  Behind the screen there s/b a small plastic pin or shaft in the center.  This is part of the check valve.  Push it in to see if the check valve is free to open.  If not, you may have to replace the inlet (cheap and easy fix).

I see what you're talking about. I popped the screen (which is clean) and the check valve is functioning perfectly. Thank you for that info, good to know. I did, however, solve my problem! I wish it had been the check valve! I had removed the 3 access panels on the lower sides of the bathtub/shower stall, to inspect the plumbing  & learn where & how everything is in the trailer.  Below the tub water faucet,  was a large water filter canister.

It was right below the wall that's between the bathroom shower/tub & living room. To access the filter, the bottom of the entertainment stand has a "false" cabinet door, with a fine wire mesh-like grate. Upon removal, I see the reason for the grate, the bass speaker for the sound system was underneath.

I removed the "false" cabinet door, to gain access to the filter. The freshwater pump was also underneath, as well as the city water line, and backside of the outside shower, which I found had been leaking. Thank goodness I found that leak! It has been leaking a while, I could see water stains on the wooden studs for the interior wall. I checked, and fortunately, there was no damage, or soft spots, etc. Had it gone unnoticed while set up full timing, I'm sure it would have eventually caused damage.

ANYWAY...The filter canister was made from really heavy-duty, clear plastic. The filter inside was so dirty, that it was literally black, gray, with chunks of crud all over it and... GREEN ALGAE! OMG!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

It was most likely original...the instructions direct the owner to replace the filter once a year. I removed the nasty filter, cleaned the canister, reinstalled it & BOOM! More water pressure than I'll ever need. That's with the new water filter I installed outside at the spigot, and, the water pressure regulator that keeps it between 40 psi & 50 psi.

It's a WATERPUR filter, model CCI-10-CLW.

I need to clean the whole system now. I guess, the best way would be to disconnect the exterior water hose, fill the on-board fresh water tank, add a cleaner/sanitizer & run it through, maybe a few times? This would seem to be the best (and only?) way to clean the system & purge any bacteria, filth, etc?

Can anybody recommend a really good sanitizer/cleaner/additive to use on a system that had a nasty, nasty, NASTY water filter?
 
Some of that might be scale build up from the water heater. You might have to fill and drain the water heater a few times to clear the tank of scale. I've build a copper tube wand to reach in and rinse the water heater tank out of debris.

Like Gary suggest also do the sanitizing as well.
 

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