Radiator access, Spartan MMGT Chassis

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afchap

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Joined
Dec 19, 2008
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1,279
Location
...East TX, or on the road...
2002 MMGT chassis ...small leak appears to be on top of radiator but there is no visible access ...just a small hole that a small tube from the surge tank disappears into. How do I get there? If radiator removal is required, how does it come out? Appears to drop down ...what else must be removed?

We are on AK caravan headed back to US via Cassiar Highway ...no cell coverage to talk to Spartan and could find no email contact for customer service. I have emailed Winnebago OR but no response as yet.

The day before the leak became obvious I blew a hydraulic hose that was bundled by wire ties with tougher hoses ...wore two holes in rubber hose and covered toad with oil which was then heavily dusted by dirt construction areas after I managed to splice the hose ...huge mess, especially on the toad. But we did encounter some rain yesterday that helped clean it up a little.

What I had always assumed were two "transmission" coolers on the outside of the radiator are hydraulic oil coolers ...the line connecting the two coolers is the one that blew about halfway between as it runs behind the radiator underneath. If the lines had been enclosed in loom before being wire-tied together the hose would not have been worn down and blown out.

It dripped coolant all night the day I discovered it, taking the level down about half way (below the sight glass) in the surge tank. The next day, yesterday, I started the engine ...no low coolant warning ...put about 3/4 gallon into the surge tank to get it above the sight glass ...tripped the pressure release lever on the surge tank pressure cap ...then drove it 200 miles. The route included some significant inclines, and the temp stayed within normal ranges, maybe as warm as 190. I never saw any evidence of leakage either while running or after stopping. I thought perhaps the coolant would expand into the overflow tank but it did not. I am wondering now if the leak may be on the suction side that returns coolant to the radiator, as that if when I first noticed it ...after running awhile and then shutting the engine down ...a damp spot down the rear side of the radiator, and drips off the bottom. I haven't checked the level yet today.  We have a 200+ mile run tomorrow to Hazleton, and then on to Prince George, Cache Creek, and down to Lynden WA.

I am thinking now I will be able to at least drive it back to the US. We are apx 400 miles from Prince George BC which does have a couple of places that work on pushers, and a bit over 1,000 miles from Seattle.  We have a short time to get from Seattle to NW Missouri, and will be back home in Texas in early October. With the temps not really hot this time of year, I am even thinking of maybe driving it all the way back to East Texas with the pressure lever open.
 
No replies ... hmm ...
UPDATE:  I got it back to the US by pouring 1.5 to 2 gallon of coolant into the surge tank each travel leg ...enough to silence the alarm and turn off the "Service Engine" light. I ran it with the pressure lever open on the pressure cap and it ran at normal temps even on steep climbs.  At Cummins NW in Renton WA, they determined the radiator top cap was the main leak, and that I also had seeping leaks at the main coolant inlet, air compressor coolant line grommets, a hose, and the surge tank sight glass (which I had mostly cured by tightening it ...I believe a service place last Spring swapped my clear sight glass for a milky one with a badly cracked o-ring, hard to prove but it was clear before and milky and nicked after). They pulled the radiator and sent it out for rebuild, put on new lower radiator hoses, replaced the hydraulic hose I blew and spliced in BC, steamed cleaned the engine, etc, etc.  It was a pricey repair, but good to go again. Cummins NW was great ...my only complaint was that they failed to put in the Optimax OAT coolant I requested, they put in the ES Compleat I had in it before.  My service place near my home in TX doesn't know about testing coolant for SCA balance and I haven't been able to get test strips, so figured I would simplify things by going with an OAT coolant.  Oh well ...next coolant change I guess.
 
I was recently at the American Coach service center with my 2000 American Dream on a Spartan Mountain Master Chassis. During my conversation with the Spartan Rep about a problem, he said I may need to replace the radiator. I had him check it and I'm good for 3-4 years but they have replaced quite a few '99 radiators.

I hope your problem isn't related but you might want to get someone to check it out. Leaks are the primary source of the problem. Before spending too much on repairs, I'd see if it might be at the point that it needs replacing. He said the main indicator was the tubing going horizontal. It begins to swell and then starts to sag.
 
Before spending too much on repairs, I'd see if it might be at the point that it needs replacing.
A little late ...as described above it has been repaired and we are back on the road. The rad shop gave me a choice of repair at $234 or new rad at $1k. I took the repair option with their assurance it would be good.
 
Hello All, my first post.

I have a 1999 American Heritage with about 75K on engine.  The previous owners must have had been up north because it has a lot of rust underneath.  I just came off a trip where the oil fill tube rusted near the engine block and dusted the rear toad and back of RV with oil.  I had shop put in temporary engine plug so I could continue trip.  I am now paranoid about 18 year old hoses, radiators, charge air cooler, etc...

Would it make sense to pull the radiator, charge air cooler, transmission cooler, etc and have them tested at a radiator shop for soundness.  Also replace all hoses underneath the coach given I assume they are all original equipment.  It is cheaper to do this at home than on the road thousands of miles away and we are planning a trip to Alaska next summer (from Georgia). 

Wanted opinions based on others life expectancy experiences out their of these components.  Thank you.
 

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