Water Heater Troubleshooting

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AmeDeBoheme

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Hi gang -

Next issue I have started to tackle: Water Heater. It is an Atwood this is all I can glean from the faded and missing labels...I can not find a part or model no to save my life. It is in my 84 Pace Arrow and I am pretty sure it is the orig tho some of the plugs, cables and such look fairly recently (last couple years?) updated and replaced.

When I click the power button inside the coach (over my stove) The WH gives three quick clicks like the ignition is trying to light and then nothing...the red light above the button flashes on off on off on off then stays lit steady. I have inspected, cleaned and reset all the connections and all seems to be fine there. I visually inspected the board and the connections on the board - and all appears fine. The flame tube does not appear to have any bugs, nests, clogs or other debris. The propane is flowing and the elec is all going fine but still no flame.

Any suggestions as to what to try next/any ideas as to why the darn thing won't light up and toast up my wet stuff?

Thanks all for the help as always.
 
Four things:

1. If it is like my Frig, I have to let it cycle the Igniter 3 to 7 times after it has set for a month just to get the air, or whatever, out of the lines before it will start.  My Frig is mounted in the Super Slid so it hast 40 + feet for the gas to travel.

2. If the gas igniting but not staying lit then it is your Flame Sensor, which is either the Igniter adjustment, connection at Control Board, defective Igniter assembly or defective Control Board.  My first thought would be the Spade connection for the Igniter Wire at the Control Board, the Flame Sensor output is in millivolts so it doesn't take much corrosion to block it.  The next thing I would check is to make sure the Igniter is adjusted correctly and in the Fame when it lights.

3. If you smell Gas while the Igniter is clicking but no flame, the items in #2 apply.  You did say Propane was flowing but you did not state specifically that you knew that because you smell Gas during the Ignition cycle.

4. If there is no Flame or gas smell when the Igniter is clicking, I would check that you are getting "pick" voltage to the Gas Solenoid and that the Solenoid has continuity.

Let us know if you need help checking continuity or measuring "pick" voltage.
 
The 3 clicks indicate the switch and controller board are working, trying to ignite. The red light indicates it did not. At first guess, either the propane is not flowing or the igniter is not positioned correctly so the sparks did not light the gas fumes.
 
Weewun - I did smell gas when it was trying to ignite - this is how I assumed the gas was flowing. Tomorrow I will try to let the igniter cycle - it has been quite some time since this puppy was lit...this RV is new to me but the previous owner had it in storage for the last two years and before that he said he almost never used the water heater in his 15+ years of ownership.

How do I check the continuity and measure "pick" voltage - I am not familiar with any of this and am learning as I go.

You and Gary both mentioned that the igniter might not be positioned correctly - is this something I can adjust myself in tomorrows daylight?
 
You can download an Atwood Troubleshooting manual here:

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf

The igniter is adjusted simply by bending the tip a bit, so yes you can do it. The ceramic can crack, though, so I wouldn't just start wiggling it around. Watch it spark and see if you are getting a good bright (blue-white) spark.

Since the heater hasn't been used, rust or an insect nest or web in the gas supply tube is a more likely cause for non-ignition.  Try vacuuming it out, or even disassemble and run a brush up through it.
 
Some further suggestions from an Atwood service manual:

5. CHECK THE AIR ADJUSTMENT.
The burner tube has an adjustable air shutter on it at the end where it goes over the orifice.
Position the air shutter so that it is 1/4 of the way open. We are looking for a blue flame with
small traces of yellow in the flame. If the flame is fairly quiet then it is adjusted correctly.

6. CHECK THE CLEANLINESS OF THE ORIFICE.
The orifice is the hex head brass fitting that is screwed onto the brass manifold of the valve. You
will have access to this part once the burner has been removed. Remove the brass orifice and
clean with isopropyl alcohol. NEVER enlarge the size of the orifice.

7. CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE MAIN BURNER TUBE.
The cleanliness of this tube is very important. Spider webs, soot and other debris can
accumulate, causing problems with gas flow down the tube. We recommend cleaning the burner
tube with a brush and not compressed air. Compressed air may not fully remove the obstruction.

8. CHECK THE CLEANLINESS OF THE FLUE TUBE.
The flue tube is the 2-1/2 inch diameter tube that starts at the bottom right corner of the water
heater (where the main burner flame enters) and comes out the top left. This tube can become
blocked by debris like insect nests or soot. To clean remove the metal flue box in the top left
corner of the water heater. To facilitate cleaning unfold a wire hanger, wrap a rag around the end
and use this to swab out the tube.
 
When I have a problem lighting my water tank after it has been sitting awhile, I light the burners on the stove to get the lp flowing. Once they are lit, the water heater or refrigerator light very easily.

Bob
 
Update - and more questions.

Good news: we have flame.

I did the suggested wire hanger with a rag trick and cleaned it out...again took all connections off, cleaned them and replaced them tight and lit the gas on the stove top for a bit to get the air out of the lines. When I pressed the button inside to turn the WH on - click...nothing...red light above the button and the smell of gas.

So this time - my partner was inside...I outside. He clicked the button as I lit a long bbq grill lighter in the tube to help matters and VOILA!!! Nice beautiful lightly roaring blue cylindrical flame just like one wants. But the ignition spark kept sparking - which scared me so I had him shut it off.

I have since turned it on 2 to 5 more times without the aid of the lighter and it lights up and purrs nicely on it's own. THANK GOODNESS!!! But....the ignition keeps sparking...like a skipping cd "clickclickclickclickclickclickclickclick" This isn't normal is it? Is this safe?

While it was on and spark-spark-sparking I pulled the spark plug switch off the front of the board box...the spark stopped but I could still hear the electric clicking inside the box where the computer board is, still trying to send the sparking signal.

Not sure what to do now and I can't find anything like this in google or forum searches...any thoughts guys?
 
It sure sounds like the control board does not realize the flame lit which means the igniter/flame detector (same piece) may require replacement. Cheap and easy to do but first, make sure it is sitting in the flame properly. If that does not do it, replace the board itself. Look for a "Dinosaur' brand board suitable for your make and model of WH

www.dinosaurelectronics.com/‎
 
The igniter keeps sparking for a fixed time period, about 6-8 seconds, then "listens" to see if a flame is present (the igniter also acts as the flame sensor).  If no flame is detected, the controller will shut the gas off and the light on the switch stays red. The switch must be turned off & back on to reset it for another ignition attempt.

It's not dangerous for the igniter to keep on clicking, but if it doesn't stop in 10 seconds, something is wrong with the controller module.
 
yea...it's not stopping after ten seconds...and again - when I unplugged the spark plug from the face of the control board - the igniter stopped sparking incessantly (obviously because it was no longer connected) but I could still hear the electricity clicking in the control board housing trying to send the elec to the sparker.

My gut tells me the board may be the issue now

I did find this link http://ourelkhorn.itgo.com/heatfx.htm which seems to be my issue as well - I did what he said he did and still the igniter spark spark sparks.

How does one go about finding make and model of this particular WH in order to buy a new control board when all the tags and labels have worn off over time??
 
As to the make and model, tat info is usually somewhere in the outside compartment.  A label or even a sticker on the door.

However... If it relights reliabllly, but the first time you turn on the gas it takes a few tries before it catches and holds..... I"ve heard from quite a few (myself included) that have that problem.... Mine has been doing it for eight years. starting the first time I tried it.
 
Update!

Water Heater has been fixed!! New dinosaur ignition board - re-wired and crimped all the cables - sand papered/steel wooled/cleaned all connections and sensors - cleaned out flame tube - adjusted air flow - wiggled,  jiggled and swore at every piece on that dang thing and FINALLY it is fixed, igniting, staying lit and producing a beautiful perfect flame. Thanks all for your help as always - now on to the next problem!!

Doesn't it always seem to be the way?
 
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