1990 Southwind motorhome with 0 power

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janet whidden

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Oct 15, 2013
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All electrical power from external power source (110v?) was running lights, plug in heaters, refrig. etc. Then we moved it a few feet to empty the black water tank.  The power was up and running again after we replugged it in after emptying the black water.  Then a few hours later, we come back to no power from the outside plugged in power source.  I hear a clicking/humming noise in the power breaker/fuse box on the floor just below the refrig., but no power.  this clicking/humming sound continues, even after I turn off the breakers to the main power, accessories and microwave.  Need to figure out how to get power back. Can anyone help? Thanks, Janet
 
eddieelk said:
Turn off the breakers at the power post, and wait a few minutes.  It sounds like you might have had a power surge.  Eddie Elk.
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Agree.  The 30 amp plug at  your sight may be pulling something less than 30 amps.  Flip the 50 amp plug as well as the 30 amp ones.  Also check to make sure house battery is still good.  If it is over 2 years old, this may also be part of the problem.. 
 
The clicking/humming noise in that location suggests the converter is behind there and is at least trying to operate on 120V. Are you able to measure the voltage across the batteries? A reading of 13.5 V or so suggests that the converter battery charge function is working and so you have 120V reaching the converter and the coach at least. Less than 12.2 or so indicates the converter is not functioning either so the chances are there is no 120V entering and the problem is likely located in the pedestal or cord/plugs.

Cycle (turn them all off then on) all the Circuit breakers in the coach as well...
 
Thanks for your reply! I tried turning off the power at the post, it didn't help.  I recall my husband charging the old rv batteries for days.  He got frustrated because the charger "wasn't reading right".  Is it possible that the rv batteries must work in order to get the shore power to work as well?  The engine starts fine off of it's battery.
 
The house batteries condition is not usually a factor for AC service, however the converter may be acting up should the batteries be bad. Do you have 12V, and thus the lights come on ok? Even when not plugged in??

 
I tried to charge the 2, 6V rv batteries with our 12v charger and the charger indicated 5.4v.  When I turned on the engine (ignition) with the charger still on the rv batteries, I tried to start the generator.  It would turn over, but would'nt start.  I noticed the battery charger was down to 4v at that point.    Still no power to any accessories inside that work on electricity.  Do the rv batteries have to work for the "shore power "electrical system to work?
 
janet whidden said:
  Do the rv batteries have to work for the "shore power "electrical system to work?
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Short answer is no. but you may have to have the battery in and fully charged to get things like the fridge to work. The fridge needs 12 volt for the control board. My brothers 1987 needed the battery in place to work lights. (they are 12 volt anyway)

your plugs should all work without the battery.... based on very low voltage on the battery system it sounds to my like the converter has died. or if your rig has an automatic transfer switch it has failed. (the clicking noise) sorry two separate thoughts in this statement.
1. plugs work without battery as most converters simply pass the 120volt to the outlets. and convert it to 12 volt for everything else.
2. if the converter is not getting power then it can NOT work.

the converter could be dead or at least the battery charge function.

BTW where are getting the voltage readings? the 2 batteries should be connected to provide 12volt to the rv.
 
I was instructed on how to hook up the 12v charger to the 2 6v batteries, which I did, and after charging, the charger read 17.0 volts.  However, the generator still won't start (it does turn over), and there's still no shore  power or battery power anywhere I can see.  everythings dead expect the actual Chev motor engine.  I hear a humming noise coming from the breaker box, whether the breakers are in the on or off position.  thanks for you input, still haven't got this figured out!
 
1. plugs work without battery as most converters simply pass the 120volt to the outlets. and convert it to 12 volt for everything else.
Click to expand...

As an FYI, and not directly related to the OP's problem:

Nope!!! The converter has nothing to do with the 120 V distribution.  The converter is connected to a 120V source  to provide power to operate it and then converts the incoming 120V to 12Volts DC to charge the house batteries and and help operate the 12V system.

The plugs (and the converter) get their power directly from the shore cord or generator through the circuit breakers.

I was instructed on how to hook up the 12v charger to the 2 6v batteries, which I did, and after charging, the charger read 17.0 volts.
Click to expand...

Something very strange going on here with the way the charger is hooked up or something. The charger output should read no more than about 14V while charging and using a good voltmeter. It could be the voltmeter is not accurate or you were reading the surface charge but.... It would be wise to verify that the 2 6V batteries and the charger are properly hooked up. You can measure across each individual battery and then across the two using a voltmeter.

It would be wise to start from the beginning and check very carefully your instructions and hookup. I would suggest using a multi-meter and start checking at the pedestal for the proper power (120V) and step through this very carefully, checking along the way.

 
Yes, you could have a ATS (automatic transfer switch) problem, (if the RV has one equipped - a 1990 RV may not in some cases) but that affects only the 120V system.

If you can find it, a light tapping on the unit might dislodge any stuck/welded relay contacts and fix it temporarily. Other than that, a voltmeter  is needed to verify voltages at the  2 input sets of terminals, one from the shore cord and one from the generator,  and the single output set of terminals (towards the breaker panel).

You may have gathered by now that a multimeter is an indispensable tool for problems like this!  Learn to use one and then never leave home without it. A reasonably good one can be purchased at the big box hardware stores or Radio Shack for about 25$.
 
alfa - thanks for pointing that out to me. The last converter I had apart was an old 1974 magnatron thing and all 120 power did connect insdie the box. Sorry for confusion

page 27 or29 of the owners manual for the 1990 fleetwood southwind says that the generator is connected directly to the converter (my guess is this is an old magnajunk converter too) anyway that kind of implies the 120 volt power distrubution cen
ter is inside the converter. It may not have anything to do with the OP problem or it might. If the converter has died the power will not be transfered to the outlets. Getting the generator started might prove the transfer switch/converteris faulty.

Janet are you using a hand held multi meter or the built in panel in the motorhome?
 
I have an 89 Southwind and get the same symptoms if the GFI plug in in the bathroom is tripped.  Press the buttons.
 
forgot to include the link to the manual for the RV
http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manualsByYear.asp
will need to scroll for your year.

the manual states that the GFI is only on the 3 outlets (bathroom, out side and kitchen) but then it also says there is no wiring diagram available :(
If the GFI outlet is first in the "stream" then yes it could shut everything off. good thing to check.

 
1275GTSport

It can be confusing as the distribution panel sometimes has the converter physically as part of the panel but electrically, they are quite separate. I think that, typically, those units with the 12V and 120V distribution panels located together under the same cover are like that. Magnatron did (does?) have models like that....

These units often have 2 - 12V feeds out, one to charge and the other to supply  the 12V distribution. When the unit is not plugged in, the battery 12V is  fed through the charging wires (to me - backwards) to the converter unit , through a relay and back out on to the 12V distribution system. When plugged in, the relay operates letting the battery charge (frontwards) and the converter alone supplies the 12V distribution system. Replacing the converter part with a different modern one then becomes a fun game!!!
 
keep in mind 2, 6V rv batteries  one  6v can be high and one be low  they well charge any way they want and latter .. the one  not charging well  go dead

your 110 ac realys may be 12v dc to make them work and your converter  is now been killed over trying really hard fro weeks pushing its max out put in to dead battery's  to bring them up 


i am sure you lost your battery's and converter    then RV was moved the battery's dropped more and when plugged in just killed the system

i seen this alot at a RV shop i worked  at

so if you have a RV or TT and the battery is no good  your converter is trying to charger your battery and run all dc loads in the RV    this is hard on them and runs them hot  not long most well last 6 months like this but in time well kill them and then you have to install a new battery and  converter
 
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