HDMI wiring in a 34H

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
SCVJeff

SCVJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2007
Posts
1,304
Hopefully someone has already done this to save me possible grief..

I'm in the process of running an HDMI cable rom the bedroom TV, to the upper left cabinet above the driver in front. I have the cable wired from the rear TV and its currently underneath the fridge. I have two possible path I can take:
- Across the floor frame in the storage bays and somehow pop out up front. Or,
-Go all the way down to the vehicle frame and attempt to make my way through all the chassis cabling.

Neither route looks like any fun but I prefer the storage bay route unless there are good reasons not to. Anyone done this?



Edit by John: changed message icon to Topic Solved
 
There are several wireless HDMI solutions possible. Check out FRYS.COM
Actiontec MWTV200KIT-01 Wireless HDMI Transmitter/Receiver Kit
Bob Wes****er
Shelbyville, IN
2005 Sightseer 30B
de N9BK
 
John Hilley said:
I would go the storage bay route, you won't have to worry about weather proofing it.
Click to expand...
I already have it in slit wrap, and as soon as I hit the door I need to exit storage and find another route regardless. There's the toss-up on when to exit. Unless someone's found a duct.

Bob: I looked at those, but we dry camp essentially 100% of the time and those are just additional current draw devices as little as it might be. Additionally I would like to know where they are streaming hi-def video? My guess is that its 2.4GHz, and UDP video can be brutal around a TCP environment.

Edit: it's an 802.11n 5GHz system. Good. That's keeps the traffic off of 2.4
 
    I thought about doing that - but for me, it was a waste of time and monies unless my bedroom HDTV was larger than 32" or so (it's 19"). Instead, I just connected the already there cable to the bedroom through an RF Modulator to my up front HD receiver. That gives me an image on the bedroom HDTV that would be very hard to tell from one from an HDMI feed. I "do" have to click the EXIT button on the remote to drop the res back a notch -- but again, it looks the same either way. In fact, my up front 32" looks just about the same as well.


 
This is a 24" @ ~7.5' max. I build HD studios and control rooms for a living so its pretty hard to miss for me even with contacts off; it just looks broken. It's either this or aspirin for the headache unless I can't find the path.
 
n9bk said:
Bob Wes****er
Shelbyville, IN
2005 Sightseer 30B
de N9BK
Click to expand...
Welcome Bob -

73 de John WB5THT

Jeff - I feel for ya' buddy!  Running wiring in my coach is never simple or easy and usually takes hours to figure the path of least resistance.
 
Well, I'm up to just behind the door where I suspect the real fun will start. That 50' cable looks like it'll JUST make it.
 
n9bk said:
There are several wireless HDMI solutions possible. Check out FRYS.COM
Actiontec MWTV200KIT-01 Wireless HDMI Transmitter/Receiver Kit
Bob Wes****er
Shelbyville, IN
2005 Sightseer 30B
de N9BK
Click to expand...

This sounds incredible. I wonder if this wireless system would work for my set-up. I have a computer and TV in my bedroom that I use to play movies from a hard drive and streams from Amazon. I can't play these on the front TV unless I move the computer and cords which is a big hassle. Sometimes I've moved the whole mess, but then pain attacks me and I need to move the whole mess back to the bedroom so I can lay down to finish the movie.

Sometimes I am up and doing things and wishing I had the same content from the computer on both TV's at once because I am going back and forth doing things. This works fine for antenna stations (I can play same channel on both TV's)  but not for Amazon streams or hard drive movies.

With this kit, would I be able to play a movie off the computer and have it broadcast to both Tv's? 

 
Search Amazon for wireless hdmi and you'll find a large selection of devices.  The better ones seem to run around $200 but there are some like this one that are closer to $100.
 
This is the wireless HDMI I have been using for the past year. It has worked well from the front of the coach to the bedroom TV. I tried a cheaper unit first and it would not work reliably, so I returned it and got the Iogear.

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-GW3DHDKIT-Wireless-Digital-Channel/dp/B00630WKGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384825486&sr=8-1&keywords=iogear+wireless+hdmi

Good Luck,
 
WOW... It's done...
Went from the TV, down and into a cable troft, across the bathroom, out under the fridge, down and into the starboard storage bay, head forward behind the right wheel, drill a hole and out under the coach. It follows lots of other cable to the port side, and up into another drilled hole underneath the dash and up into the Port A-Pillar

The fun part (gee, I thought that was past) was gaining access into the cabinet. The connector isn't bad, but that ferrite choke was a PITA threading it around the headliner. It takes 48' of cable to make that run. The entire cable is covered with slit wrap to prevent any damage.

If I had to do it again I MAY opt for RF, but have never been a fan of using RF anyplace that a hardware can be dropped. It's just a place looking for a problem to pop up.
 
Spelling checker got me again. I meant to say HARD WIRE.

Sounds strange coming from a ham eh?
 
SCVJeff said:
If I had to do it again I MAY opt for RF, but have never been a fan of using RF anyplace that a hardware can be dropped. It's just a place looking for a problem to pop up.
Click to expand...

I'll second John's comment.  Wireless systems are a pain especially to those I damage or render unusable when I transmit.  Most do not have sufficient rejection of out of band RF so things happen that are not good.
 
I am running the same IOGear that Yoda is and ran into an RF problem. Not being an electronics guy, I had a heck of a time explaining the audio dropping in and out between the TV and the tuner.

Now that I know what a ferrite choke is, I might be able to solve my problem! The million dollar question for me is do it make any difference where that ferrite choke is placed along the cabling?

The things you learn here when you keep sniffing around...

Kim
 
Not sure of the power supply for these devices, if batteries, there will be no external place for the ferrite device.  If powered by a power supply, the ferrite goes right next to the box, not the power supply end of the cable. 

If you know the frequency of the interference, you can choose the best ferrite for that frequency band or just use a broad band one.
 
Ferrite is one of those magic things that either work really well, or not at all. If you place a ferrite clamp on a power supply line, it goes as close to the connector that plugs into the device as you can get. The intent is to keep the device, whatever it is from radiating noise out the power line. Same goes for HDMI cables that have them. It keeps stray RF out of the TV, but also squashes RF racket being radiated out the satellite receiver, DVD, etc, while still allowing the bitstream through without affect.

Whats helping all the reported LED interference is the manufacturers adding mini ferrite beads and ceramic caps to the regulators in the LED lamps themselves, and that's making a huge difference
 
Hi all. I am going to replace the front overhead and bedroom tvs and add a tv outside in my 2007 Winnebago Journey 34H. I am going to use 12 volt Jensen Tv's. Need to conserve batteries when boondocking. The front tv should be ok for digital connections, sat, cable, off air. Jeff thanks for the info on routing the HDMI cable. Has anyone used an HDMI cat 5e 4x4 distribution box. Any recommendations on models and suppliers and ways to wire??
Thanks Les
 
I think if you look at the CAT5 baluns you'll see that they are probably requiring 2 CAT5's . For that reason, and the fact that any conversion is going to be lossy, I elected to stick with native HDMI all the way through.

You also need to be careful about passive HDMI distribution systems that can really screw up the HDCP decoder in your source. Multiple HDMI destinations (the TV's) may or may not work properly with those. I have one, and while I finally got pix through it, I never got the audio to work. If you're watching satellite you'll have the inverter on anyway, so just add an active DA and you'll have an easier time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 1,141 (members: 23, guests: 1,118)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,985
Posts
1,388,659
Members
137,734
Latest member
[email protected] Ke
Back
Top Bottom