I have a 2010 Daymon Daybreak Class A motorhome which had a water leak from the front slide. The seal has been replaced but I got a quote of $13k to repair the floor. I'm thinking of tackling the project myself. The area to repair is about a 4 x 4 space. Any info on what I may be up against and tips are greatly appreciated. We have a trip planned in the Spring to Fort Wilderness and hoping not to disappoint the family. Thanks.
Water Damage floor repair
- Thread starter Jborchard
- Start date
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Ernie Ekberg
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- Mar 17, 2005
- Posts
- 1,591
is the main floor damaged or the slide floor? can you post a photo?
Thanks for the quick replies. The main floor behind underneath the slide is damaged. I will need to replace about a 4x4 section. The RV is still in the shop getting get the seal replaced when I get it back, I will post some pics. I've been doing some homework and am nervous about what might be in store for me. Anyone tired a similar project and have suggestions, I'm all ears because I feel this one is going to be a bumpy ride. I just can't see paying $13k ..... Thanks
Conquest aka Robert
Well-known member
You could try Epoxy resin I used AEROMARINE PRODUCTS Dry Rot Repair Epoxy Resin. The stuff mixes like water and flows into wood very deep. I had to rebuild around a tail light and where the ladder mounted. Also used it under outside under fridge door to get the skin reattached. I even mixed it with pressure treated wood sawdust and made it like a paste to fill in around some areas inside the cargo door frames rotted out from water. They were so soft my finger could go into the wood. I used a syringe to shoot the epoxy into the wood at several places until the wood couldn't soak up any more. Next day area was SOLID I even drilled into it and put some corner brackets in just for good measure. If its not total gone and just a glue issue this might either do the trick for good or at least get you back from your trip and some time to save up for the big repair.
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
I am amazed at the quote of $13,000.00 to replace a 4 X 4 section of floor. I just completed a project where I replaced all the carpet and ceramic tile in my coach with vynyl plank flooring. when all the old flooring was removed and the subfloor was exposed it was all solid. However I could see that it would have been fairly easy to cut out and replace a section of the subfloor if needed. Even if you had to cut it out and chisel out the section, I cannot see how that would cost 13K.
Here is a link to the flooring project that I did.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,69841.msg636238.html#msg636238
Here is a link to the flooring project that I did.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,69841.msg636238.html#msg636238
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
You will probably be looking at something like this after you remove your flooring, although in a smaller area of exposed subfloor.
I would then drill a hole with a holesaw to determine how thick your subfloor is and what is under it.
After determining the thickness I would use a skill saw and set the thickness of the cut at less than the subfloor thickness and cut a square piece slightly larger than the bad section.
Be careful as the supporting cross beams are probably metal.
I do not think that you will damage any wiring or plumbing using this approach.
Take your time and maybe even finish the cuts with a chisel to insure that you do not cause any damage under the floor. You might even do the floor in smaller sections
.
You could then either match your current flooring or do something different.
If the bad section is under the slideout I would just replace it up to as close as I could. I do not think a small strip of flooring next to the slide out would be a structural problem. Most slideout when extended do not leave much of the floor unexposed.
I also think that you can do this without removing the slideout.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk121/HueyPilotVN/DSCN0857.jpg
I would then drill a hole with a holesaw to determine how thick your subfloor is and what is under it.
After determining the thickness I would use a skill saw and set the thickness of the cut at less than the subfloor thickness and cut a square piece slightly larger than the bad section.
Be careful as the supporting cross beams are probably metal.
I do not think that you will damage any wiring or plumbing using this approach.
Take your time and maybe even finish the cuts with a chisel to insure that you do not cause any damage under the floor. You might even do the floor in smaller sections
.
You could then either match your current flooring or do something different.
If the bad section is under the slideout I would just replace it up to as close as I could. I do not think a small strip of flooring next to the slide out would be a structural problem. Most slideout when extended do not leave much of the floor unexposed.
I also think that you can do this without removing the slideout.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk121/HueyPilotVN/DSCN0857.jpg
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
Another sugestion is that you can also build a ledge under the replaced section by cutting some wood strips and securing them under the subfloor with "C" clamps and then using wood screws to firmly attach the supporting wood strips. Then when you put the replacement section in you can screw the edges into the ledge under the perimeter of the new section. You can also put strips in the same direction as the current supporting cross beams depending on how much room you have. Use flat head screws or countersink them. You can certainly mark the subfloor all you want because it will be covered by your finished floor.
Ernie Ekberg
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Posts
- 1,591
when you get it home, send me some photos at ernietex at yahoo dot com
I'll try and help from my computer and will post results and the avenue taken to fix the problem. After 42 years in flooring, I think I van help
I'll try and help from my computer and will post results and the avenue taken to fix the problem. After 42 years in flooring, I think I van help
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
Ernie is definetly the professional. With him giving advice I would not hesitate to take on the project and you will have the accomplishment of doing it yourself.
