Ford 460 rear exhaust manifold bolt
- Thread starter Ray Perry
- Start date
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Unfortunately, that's all too common a problem on the 460. If it's making that much noise, the manifold may be warped. If left long enough, it can damage the head.
I would suggest that you remove the manifold and have it surfaced. Once the manifold is off, you may be able to grab the bolt with a pair of vice-grips. Of course, soak it good with PB Blaster and tap it with a small hammer to help loosen the corrosion.
The ultimate fix for that issue seems to be to install a set of Banks headers and associated exhaust system:
http://bankspower.com/products/show/127/63
I have a set sitting on the floor of my garage....... just waiting a "Round Tuit".
I would suggest that you remove the manifold and have it surfaced. Once the manifold is off, you may be able to grab the bolt with a pair of vice-grips. Of course, soak it good with PB Blaster and tap it with a small hammer to help loosen the corrosion.
The ultimate fix for that issue seems to be to install a set of Banks headers and associated exhaust system:
http://bankspower.com/products/show/127/63
I have a set sitting on the floor of my garage....... just waiting a "Round Tuit".
You should take the manifold off, and replace all the bolts/studs. If you're going to do it yourself be very careful, it's possible to drill into the head if you don't drill perfectly into the remaining bolt. Lowes has left turning drill bit and easy out kits. If you're really, really lucky it may grab the broken bolt and spin it out. This is a very common problem, that's why I recommend replacing all the bolts.
WILDEBILL308
Well-known member
Let me guess it is the back one on the passenger side. The best way to cure the problem is to take the exhaust manifold off then work on the bolt. Replace the stock manifolds with a set of Thorley, Gibson or Banks long tube headers. it will improve performance and it won't brake the bolts again. This is one of the most commen problems with the 460. You can resurface the exhaust manifolds but they will warp again. Next time they may break the head. That little part the bolt screws into often breaks then you need a new head.
Bill
Bill
captsteve
Well-known member
And when you reinstall, DO NOT OVER TORQUE!!! the torque is something like 15 in. lbs. or some silly loose number like that. If you exceed it you will snap the bolt or the ear of the head will snap. Ask me how I know this...
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
I put headers on my 460 when I had it also. I was told that the problem with the exhaust maniforl on the 460 and maybe the 454 also was that after pulling a long grade and heating the manifold up the quick cooling down from going down the hill would cause the bolts to break of even the end ears of the manifold to smap off. I also remember that you have to retorgue the header bolts and that there was a special bolt that worked better.
jeepfreak
Member
Had same issue with same bolt(right rear) after removing the manifold used standard ark welder and welded enough stick to have it protrude from the head and then used a small pipe wrench to unscrew. I think the heat from welding loosened it up. The stick weld will not stick to the cast head. I installed a Banks system in place of the oem stuff, then sold the coach, go figure!
I only use this unit for trips to wilmington N,C which is about (320) miles roundtrip from my house about 5 times a year and to tailgate all NCSU home football games (50) miles round trip. It lasted 40,000 miles with the exhaust manifold on there. I think, but I did notice that some are bolts and some are studs did it come from factory that way , I would think not . do I still need to replace with headers, or resurface manifold , buy new manifold with stainless steel bolts. I also had class C that had exhaust leak issue but jut a short while when yu crank it up I sold it and never did anything to it but this one gets louder as it warms up opposite the class C
catblaster
Well-known member
Ray, everyone will have differing opinions on how to fix this so here's my best shot. To get the old broken bolt out, I do like jeepfreak except I slide a larger nut over the stub and weld nut and stub together. The heat from welding also helps break it loose.
Personally I would stay away from stainless bolts even on a good day they are prone to snap. In stead go for high carbon studs and never-sieze everything.
If the banks isn't a comfortable option then modify your existing manifold (after having it shaved flat) by enlarging the bolt holes 1 or 2 sizes larger to give it room to move. slot out the end holes and if possible cut the manifold between ports for relief. I don't know how a 460 manifold is cast so cutting may not be possible.
Unfortunately this is a common problem. I had it on 2, 350's, a 500 caddy and on the 8.3 Cummings in the RV. My fix for the 8.3 was to make the manifold 3 piece and clamp the sections together. If the manufacturers would add a little nickel to the casting they could eliminate most of this but that might cost a buck more.......later Will
Personally I would stay away from stainless bolts even on a good day they are prone to snap. In stead go for high carbon studs and never-sieze everything.
If the banks isn't a comfortable option then modify your existing manifold (after having it shaved flat) by enlarging the bolt holes 1 or 2 sizes larger to give it room to move. slot out the end holes and if possible cut the manifold between ports for relief. I don't know how a 460 manifold is cast so cutting may not be possible.
Unfortunately this is a common problem. I had it on 2, 350's, a 500 caddy and on the 8.3 Cummings in the RV. My fix for the 8.3 was to make the manifold 3 piece and clamp the sections together. If the manufacturers would add a little nickel to the casting they could eliminate most of this but that might cost a buck more.......later Will
You could probably get away with repairing what you have. I would strongly urge you to remove that manifold and have it surfaced. Then install all new bolts. Check the boss on the head carefully for cracks (use a magnifying glass)....... BTW...... DO NOT use any kind of manifold gaskets on those heads. Direct manifold to head contact is essential for proper heat transfer.Ray Perry said:
What concerns me is the comment, "I have lots of noise on accelceration". The broken manifold bolt will normally start out with a sort of "ticking" sound on acceleration. If you are getting a lot of noise, you may have a more serious problem. That's an indication of open exhaust which could be that the boss on the head is already broken. However, you won't know until you get the manifold off.
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
I think I know what he might be referring to. Years ago I had a 460 with the same issue. the corner of the head actually cracked and the corner from the bolt hole to the end came off. I had to replace both the heads.
captsteve
Well-known member
The boss they are referring to is the ear on the head that the bolt screws in to. If you surface the manifold and put it back like it is supposed to be with no gasket, then torque it properly (to specs) you should be fine. There might be a little leak on start up but as the manifold heats that will stop if all is done properly.
Bad news hole about size of silver dollar between manifold and head do not know if it is head or manifold cranked up cloudy day can see what looks like blue fire when running .This is at front opposite end of broken bolt .Can see threads on right front bolt behind manifold .Does that sound like head or manifold . noise sounds like john deere tractor.
That "blue flame" that you are seeing is not good. I would NOT drive that vehicle until you have resolved this issue. That blue flame turns into a cutting torch when the engine is pulling. If the head is not yet damaged beyond repair, it will soon be if you drive the vehicle. This could end up being a very expensive repair.
