Propane Tank Leak

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Double Nickle

Double Nickle

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Joined
Apr 28, 2013
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I had my 1989 Winnebago Cheiftain out over Christmas and when we arrived at our destination I turned the propane on to fire up the furnace.  I noticed a strong propane smell and traced it back to the valve.  I was wondering two things, 1) Can I get a standard(lowes/home depot/etc) shut off valve and replace it? 2) Is there a way to replace it without bleeding out almost a full tank of propane?  Any help and guidance is appreciated.
 
No you cannot replace the valve until the tank is totally empty. I would find a local gas supplier and call them and see if they can replace it for you.  Better safe than sorry.  While your at it, have them do a pressure test on your system for you.  Cheap insurance.
 
When you say it is a valve leak I assume it is not in the valve body.  If it is a packing leak have you attempted tightening?  Also, how about 'back seating'?
 
I am not well versed on this, but it is similar to a garden hose valve that leaks when the water is on, but when I shut it off the smell goes away and it appears to not be leaking.  I'm not sure what "back seating" is.  Thanks for the responses.
 
Spray soapy water on it to find excatly where the leak is. Then, there may be something you can tighten
 
If you plan to do any work on the propane system, be sure you have a fire extinguisher handy.  Any spark could start a fire.
 
I had a small leak in my system last summer and I was unable to locate it using liquid leak detector. What I did was I removed the tank, then removed the hose with the in-line regulator. I then plugged the end of the hose with a 1/2" pipe plug then reconnected it to the tank. I then opened the valve and submerged the entire assembly in a barrel that was 1/2 full of water. Then the leak was found. It was from a small weep hole at the bottom of the regulator. It was leaking about a drop every 10 seconds. When it was installed in the RV, the hole was on the bottom side and the leak detector never made it to the hole and I couldn't see the hole. I purchased a new regulator and problem was solved. Something for you to check.
 
back seating means that you open the valve fully so it seats on the back side of the stem, alot of valves will leak when only partially open but stop once they are open fully. That's often an indication of leaking packing nut on the stem.
 
Will, your advise is right on. I learned many moons ago to always fully open the valve to the stop and then some a little extra tightness. This even happens on water connections. It's automatic for me now.

Hope that is his only problem...it's the cheapest fix you can imagine.
 
Thanks to everyone for the responses.  Once the snow melts and the temps get above freezing, I'm going to trouble shoot.  Appreciate it.
 
I don't think you can't use the "standard" valves that may be sold at some consumer outlets (I don't think Lowes sells them at all).  Those would be for vertical DOT spec bottles and the usual one has the internal tube and float mechanism as part of the valve kit. Your motorhome tank is horizontal and complies with ASME specification for LP tanks. I think the valve assembly is different than those on a DOT bottle.  A propane supply house would probably have the right one, but they may not want to sell to an amateur due to liability concerns
 
This is probably one thing you dont want to mess with yourself. I dont mean to discourage you but even removing the packing nut can cause a problem if you dont close the valve. Removing the valve is looking for a disaster. let someone that has the tools to remove the valve, pump down the tank, and the insurance to cover the burns and explosion if they screw up. I've welded gas tanks, propane tanks, made hot taps on high pressure mains, and welded to live high pressure gas mains.....but I wont change out a tank valve myself.
 
I had my fill valve changed out in Florida last year.  It was a very old type, could be filled but most attendants now were clueless how, the old guys knew.  Hubby said get it changed as it was creating problems for me.

I went to an individuals RV shop, other places wouldn't mess with it, he fixed them.  He said once he did any work on it since it was a 1992 he needed to pressure test it, hubby said it needed done anyway.  The tank turned out to be fine so now its easy to get filled.  I do need to sand it off and paint it with aluminum rustoleum paint as it looks pretty shabby.  Plan to do it this summer.  I'm going to look and see what I need to tape off, I'm sure there are gauges and things I need to protect from the paint.

Good luck getting it fixed.
 
Hello PatrioticStabilist, sorry to resucitate an old Post, but I'm unable to fill my new-to-me 1986 RV propane tank because the valve seems to be leaking from the bottom (a red "reset" button) when filling. I'll be in Florida next week, and would like to visit the shop that changed out your valve there.
 
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