Adding an LED Light strip to Your RV

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Kevin Means

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This write-up describes how I mounted an LED light strip to the side of my motorhome.

On the awning side of our motorhome, there are only two factory-lights - a white LED porch light and an illuminated door handle - hardly enough light for seeing anything more than the entry area. To make matters worse, light from both of those sources is completely blocked when the passenger side slide-out is extended. I like to relax outside when camping but it seemed rather silly to always have to have a flashlight with me when I was bar-b-cueing, watching TV or just visiting.

With that, I began looking into a variety of 12 volt lighting options to reliably illuminate the awning side of our coach. LED light strips have become very popular with RVrs. Many systems are waterproof/water-resistant and, with some basic precautions, can be installed outside. They're relatively inexpensive, most operate with 12 volts, they come in a variety of colors, including single and multiple color variations - making them very versatile - and they can add different ambiances to the outside area. After considerable research, I bought a waterproof, flexible 3528 light strip that's five meters long with 300 multi-colored LEDs and it came with it's own controller and remote. I swapped the controller and remote for a WiFi controller - more on that later. LED light strips can be purchased from our sponsor, RVLEDBulbs.com.

My awning is about 14 feet long so I had to trim a little off one end of the light strip so it would fit under the awning. I struggled with how best to mount the light strip to the MH, because I'm picky about its appearance and I really didn't want it to fall off while driving down the road. The light strip comes with 3M sticky-tape on one side that will adhere to the side of the motorhome but it's been my experience that those sticky things lose their sticky over time. So I went to Home Depot and bought two 8-foot lengths of a metal strap for about $6.00 (Picture 1). I'm not sure what these straps are normally used for but they're just the right size for attaching the light strips to them. I riveted two of the metal straps together for a total length of 13 feet and then, in addition to the 3M tape, I used silicon glue to attach the light strips to them. I also used the silicon glue to run a bead down the full length of each edge of the light strip. You'll notice in Picture 1 that there are words cut into the metal strap. That's where the light strip attaches. Since the back (sticky-side) of the light strip would be exposed through these word cut-outs, I also ran a bead of the silicon glue down the back-side of the metal strap - completely sealing all corners and edges of the light strip. The manufacturer of these light strips claim that they're "waterproof", and they look pretty well protected, but I wanted to hedge my bets as much as possible.

I didn't want to attach the metal strap directly to the side of the motorhome for a variety of reasons - one of them was, I wanted to direct the light from the LEDs downward somewhat, because the light strip was to be mounted high on the wall, directly under the awning cover. I did this so the awning cover would protect the light strip from the elements as much as possible, but unless light from the light strip was directed downward, the back of the awning cover would block a lot of the light strip's illumination. I also wanted to be able to use the light strip whether the awning was retracted or extended and mounting it under the awning would allow that (My awning is attached to the slide so light from the light strip is not blocked when the slide is extended).

I found some sturdy nylon blocks for less than $3.00 at Home Depot. These blocks already had an angled side to mount the metal strap/light strip to, which would direct the light downward. I mounted these blocks to the ends of the metal strap, and then to four more places down the length of the strap (Picture 2). The nylon blocks were then screwed to the side of the motorhome, into expanding locking nuts, and the holes were sealed. (Drilling into my baby was the scariest part of the entire project). I had a tight area to work in, between the bottom of the awning cover and the top of the microwave vent, but it all just barely fit (Picture 3). In addition to the light strip being firmly attached to the metal strap, I can remove the metal strap and light strip assembly from the MH without having to remove anything from the MH wall.

I covered the wires that extend from the end of the light strip with shrink-wrap, and ran them through a hole that I drilled in the side of the MH, to an unused section in the passenger-side overhead cabinets. That's also where I tapped into 12 volts for some existing interior reading lights. The hole was sealed and is not visible from inside or outside the MH, because it's behind the light strip. Inside the cabinet, I installed a 12 volt WiFi LED controller that is controllable with any smartphone (Picture 4). This controller cost $27.00, has a range of about 150 feet and works great with my iPhone 4S. The light strip and controller draw about 3 amps at max brightness - considerably less when dimmed.

I've attached some pictures of a few of the different colors that the light strip will display. The brightness can be varied to any level and the light strip can display almost any color with a swipe of your finger on the smartphone app. This system is very versatile - controllable from most WiFi equipped devices. I primarily use it for the bright white light it emits, but other colors add a neat touch to the outside area. There are other functions as well, but some are, well... a bit silly in my opinion. If you're into pulsing lights synced to music - it'll do that too. I know this was pretty long-winded but I wanted to explain this fully in case someone else was considering a project like this. Hope it helps.

Kev
 

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Cool mod and nice write up Kev! This is one that I want to do on my rig eventually. I really like the LED lights, and the color option is pretty cool too.  Excellent job!
 
Nice job Kev but it seems like a lot of  unnecessary work. I purchased a set last spring and mounted it directly on the bottom of the channel that the awning slides into. The problem with that is that the channel is round so the 3m sticky stuff didn't have much to grab to and the following day, I found the entire strip on the ground. By then it wasn't as sticky as before so I had to purchased another set. I mounted this right on the side of the RV about 1 1/2" below the channel. I used a short 1 1/2" block of wood to mark a line the entire length to give me a line as a guide. It's been there since last June and looks fine. It also survived a trip to Florida. Just make sure that the surface is really clean before applying.  Being down about 1 1/2", it provides plenty of light whether the owning in rolled up or extended. Great for grilling. I was able to run the wires through the side of the RV at the end of the awning channel and this just so happens to be inside a closet where my washer is and also it had 12 volt supply for my bedroom TV. I extended the wires for the electric eye and ran them down the channel for the awning. It extends below  the awning channel about 1/4" which is just right for the controller to send the signal.
 
Thanks Marty, it's something I've been wanting to do for a while too.

And you're right Rene - it was a lot of work. It's a good point you made about keeping the light strip level. It would look fairly cheesy otherwise. The metal strap was a good guide for doing that. It was also already powder-coated black, so it's fairly weatherproof and matches the color of the wall that it mounts to. The metal strap itself, however, never actually touches the side of the motorhome - only the nylon blocks do - and they're painted to match the color of the MH.

I should be clear that I DID use the sticky 3M side of the light strip to attach it to the metal strap, but I also used silicon glue to strengthen the attachment and to seal the light strip. I just don't trust the sticky stuff. I also wanted the system to be somewhat modular so I could remove/replace the light strip without unscrewing anything from the MH wall. It's good to hear that yours held up during your trip - that's encouraging. Mine was still firmly in place after a 100 mile trip last weekend so it seems to be attached well, and the LEDs worked great after being sprayed directly with soap and water when the MH was washed - THAT was my biggest concern. Time will tell if it holds up over time.

Thanks again - attach some pics if you've got them. Would love to see other setups.

Kev
 
I mounted our led strip about 2" under the awning when it is rolled up. I bought 3-6' sections of clear plastic light strip mounting channels @ HD. They came with sticky tape on them but I bought some weatherproof 3M tape and used it on the back of the channels.  Made sure the 5ver was cleaned where the channels attach. Ran the light strip into the channel and then used some one sided 3M tape approx. every 12"  to hold the strip into the channel. I had bought the 120 volt lights. Ran the power cord down the side of my electric awning rail and used clear sticky clips to hold the cord. Mounted an outside electrical box under my storage compartment with a hole to allow the power cord in. Installed another electrical outlet inside the compartment and a timer for the lights. They have been on there in some severe rain and snow and temps down to single digits. Have had no problems so far.
 
Yeah, thoroughly cleaning whatever it is that you're sticking these things to is really important if you want them to stay put. I noticed that Winnebago is putting LED light strips on some of their new RVs at the factory now, and they're putting them on the awning roller so the light shines toward the MH when the awning is extended. I also saw another MH at our campground this weekend that had the same setup - the lights on the awning roller. It looked nice, and it seems very useful, but you'd have to have your awning out to use them. That's not okay for us.

I'd love to see some pics of other installations. Gives me ideas.

Kev
 
I original thought of putting them on the roll but then I would have to contend with the wiring issue. Putting them on the RV sidewall was better for me and the wires arte hardwired to the power source.
 
That is why I put them on the side of the 5ver....lights on whether the awning is out or in.
 
Nice installation. I would love to see photos of the other installations, too. On my previous coach, I installed a couple of them inside, along the tops of the sliders to provide soft, indirect lighting. I need to do something outside. The awning is not attached to the slider so I cannot mount them under it. Each slider has a Carefree of Colorado topper. The fixture mounted to the top of the slider is pretty massive so I may be able to mount the strip under there.

I'll have to look around to see the best looking way to mount them. Kevin: What departments did you get the metal strips and nylon blocks? Do you remember what they were called? When you remove power to the the Wifi controller, does it remember the last setting? I am thinking of wiring it to the porch light switch.
 
Michael,

Yes, the WiFi controller remembers its last setting when power is removed and then restored - at least it did for about 30 minutes during my pre-installation testing. It's a pretty amazing little device - inexpensive - and so far, reliable. I got the nylon blocks in the Hardware section. They're actually about twice as long as my picture shows them to be. I cut them in half, because I didn't need/want two inches of nylon block showing when I only needed one. They're called, "A-maz-ing Picture Frame Hooks" (or something like that). Each package comes with 4 blocks and the packaging says they're designed to hold pictures on a wall during earthquakes (We have those from time to time out here). I wish I could help you with the metal strap. They come in eight-foot sections, they're very thin gauge metal and they've got words cut into them as shown in the picture.

I think wiring the controller to the porch light is a good idea (makes the porch light switch kind of a "Master Switch"). I thought about doing that but the porch light switch in my MH is not in the slide, but the controller and LED light strip are. I was somewhat concerned about snaking the wires through the slide's wiring harness - looks like quite a challenge. Good luck and keep us posted.

Kev
 
Pretty nice!  Where did you get the wi-fi controller?  I just did a quick google for one, didn't find anything under $100.

I also didn't trust the built-in adhesive, so I used some 1/2" 3m auto trim tape (Walmart or any auto store).  Stuck that to the bottom of the awning rail, then peeled off the other side and stuck the LED strip to it.  Holds very well and recommend it.
 
Thanks. I got the controller off of ebay - new. It cost just under $30.00. It's the identical controller sold on some websites for just under $100.00.
 
Great write up Kevin.  Thanks for this.  I just received my LED light strip and have been searching for an install process and love your ideas.  Just a couple questions.  Curious as to why you have the bent portion of the metal strip on the bottom.  Does it block any of the downward light?  Could it be reversed and placed on top to use as water protection with more downward directing light?  Also, from most other posts on the internet, I have been finding that moisture is the downfall for these LED strips, even though they claim to be waterproof.  As such, I am trying to figure out how to completely seal them.  Did you silicone the entire strip, not just the edges?  I was even thinking of sealing with clear heat shrink tubing and then attaching to the metal strip with adhesive.  Any thoughts on the clear heat shrink?  Thanks again!
 
Mine have been up for over a year now and I developed a problem. 1/2 of the strip doesn't work at all. Anyone had that problem? I hard wired the strip so it's going to be a pain to replace the entire strip. It almost looks like I may have a break in the strip causing the end half not to work.
 
Great write up and thanks for the share.

I have been thinking about doing this (and indirect lighting on my truck) for awhile..

Yes, I would love to see other projects..

Ian.
 
What did you use to seal the wire penetration?

I need to do something similar for DW.  I'm not sure she'll go for the strip light, since she likes more of a swag of individual white light bulbs..... but your write up has my gears a turnin'

Thanks
 
Rene T said:
Mine have been up for over a year now and I developed a problem. 1/2 of the strip doesn't work at all. Anyone had that problem? I hard wired the strip so it's going to be a pain to replace the entire strip. It almost looks like I may have a break in the strip causing the end half not to work.

Hey Rene.  Have not put mine on yet so I cant attest to the problem personally, however, I have been reading that moisture seems to be the most common culprit for these strips failing.  As such, I am thinking that I am going to completely enclose the strip in heat shrink and then heat it onto the strip, thus ensuring no moisture touches the strip.
 
desertfox06 said:
As such, I am thinking that I am going to completely enclose the strip in heat shrink and then heat it onto the strip, thus ensuring no moisture touches the strip.

You completely confused me which doesn't take much at times.  :D  You said you are going to completely enclose the LED strip with heat shrink. How is the light going to shine through the heat shrink?  Maybe I misunderstood you.  I guess you need to explain a little. Thanks.
 
Rene T said:
You completely confused me which doesn't take much at times.  :D  You said you are going to completely enclose the LED strip with heat shrink. How is the light going to shine through the heat shrink?  Maybe I misunderstood you.  I guess you need to explain a little. Thanks.

Lol...sorry....you can buy completely clear heat shrink tubing from ebay or amazon.  The only thing I can think that might pose a problem is heat but I was thinking that it should be ok since the LED's hardly put out any heat...I like Kevin's install and you can buy clear heat shrink that would fit completely around the entire metal strip, thus alleviating the need to silicone seal the strip I would think.
 
I also really like the WiFi controller that Kevin installed.  However, being that I have two young children, I opted for the music controller because they love to have dance parties with their young friends and family when camping.  Once they are older and grown out of that, I will definitely install the WiFi controller so as to have a much cleaner look.  For now, the music and IR controller is being installed in a plastic pvc junction box installed near one of my outdoor speakers so that the controller can hear the music.
 

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