Can the front air bags be dumped independent from rear air bag?

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AA4WP

AA4WP

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2008
Posts
93
Location
Louisville, KY
My motorhome's rear end scrapes the street when exiting our driveway.  A couple of inches would help, and perhaps prevent our hanging up when we exit our driveway.  We do have a steel wheel, but it leaves a track mark on the street.  The DPW recently renewed our street's pavement and I would like our motorhome to not leave such marks.  I also would not like to run the risk of hanging up in the driveway, half in and half out in the street.

One time I had to fiddle with the dump panel to cause the air bags to fill to the point so I could get the rear wheels down and make traction.  Scary, to say the least.

Wendell
 
Don't believe you can dump one end independent from the other.  One easy fix many have used is to place some planks in the depression at the curb to raise your wheels as you enter the drive.
 
It can if it was originally set up that way. On my unit I can dump/raise/adjust the drive, lift and steer axles independently from each other. I can also adjust the pressures between the left and right steer to fine tune the ride. I have found that feature to be extremely useful in the years I have been driving.  You might want to check with the manufacturer to see if they can modify it if it isn't set up that way already...mine was done from an upfitter when I spec'd out my unit.
 
dan680fl ...Welcome to the forum, and specifically to the Winnebago area. What make & model is your coach? Sounds like you have a tag, which the op's 36 ft Journey does not.
 
I have a 2007 40' diesel Super C custom spec'd for my business. I had additional suspension mods done @ http://www.donvel.com/ that allow me to dump the front only and have different pressures between the left and right steer axle.
 
It can be done but not easy nor will it be cheap. I would go with Paul and lay down planks as the transition point that is giving you problems is probably much shorter than you think. Measure how far your drag wheel leaves a mark to get an idea. If this was a constant nuisance I would check into the cost to do an asphalt patch. Most small companies will come by at the end of their next close job if you give them the option for a fill in rather than a regular job to save the MOB costs.
 
Thanks, all.

I can see that it would be quite prohibitive to install the extra air bags and/or controls for separate air bags.

I had also considered planks; wide and thick, with ropes to pull them out of the way.  I often wonder if I were to remove the steel wheel roller on the hitch if that would give me just enough clearance.  Some day when I feel brave and foolish I may try that.

I would so much (I sure I am not alone) wish that our house was situated on a larger, longer and more level yard with the ability to pull through.  Well, perhaps next time.

Again, thanks for reading.

Wendell
 
The simple way is to place something on the ground at a point when your rear drive wheels are at just as the rear end is about to make contact with the ground. A couple pieces of plywood say...the width of your duals and a couple feet long that would allow them to raise the rear end just enough to prevent it from making contact. Some of us have to use a similar task to load our cars on our tow dollies to prevent the front end from making contact with the dolly cross member, except we put the board under the front wheels.

Have you tried not completely filling your holding tank and fuel tanks prior to departing? Fill up the water tank while the rig is parked on the street. Stop to fill up the fuel tank after departure on your way out of town. That's a lot of weight which might reduce the rear end squat a bit.

Or tear out your existing driveway and have it regraded to make it less steep to allow entry/exit without scraping your rear end.
 
Try one of these:  http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/curb+bridge.do
 
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