Broken ground post on 50 amp cord. Repair?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
R

RPNtraveler

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Posts
40
The grounding post on my 50 amp power cord has broken off. Is there a good way to repair this by replacing the end or must I replace the entire cord? :-\
 
Simply cut off the old plug and put on a new one paying attention to the polarity. :)
 
X2 on Ken's suggestion, when I replaced my power cord, long story, I replaced with one of these right off the bat. My hands are not getting any more nimble and the handle really helps.
 
On the standard 50 amp power cord.... 50 amp plug is not repairable but is replacable.
Marinco Outlet may be repairable (I have met a couple that need special tool to fix, but those are rare)
50 amp blade (extension cord) outlet is not repairable but again, is replicable.

Plugs and outlets can always be replaced keeping most of the cord (you may loose a few inches depending )

I needed a pigtail and wished to put a "power Pull" type plug on the end of the cord so one hacksaw later I had a pigtail and a few minutes with other tools I had my power pull.
 
thanks for the replies. At the time I asked the question, being a bit of a newby, I didn't realize you can buy a replacement plug for just the end. Also the handle really helps since that is probably how I broke the ground pin the first time.
 
Get a replacement end.  You don't need to go to the rv supply eithor You will find them at home depot or Lowes.  Its. The same as a stove plug..  Take a picture or bring the end with you to match up.  Their will be many different ones their
 
While your at home depot. Get a tube of nolux. Or antioxidant.  And put some on the prongs.    It will keep the prong from oxidizing and the plug with go in and out of the socket much eaisorer
 
I replaced the plug on my 50 amp cord as recommended but now it will not go through the hole in the floor of the compartment so I can close the outer door when connected. Have considered cutting off part of the handle and just leaving a finger pull but I'm not sure that will let it go through or not. Any other suggestions? Are there larger flanges for the opening on the bottom?
 
There are all sorts of sizes for deck flanges of various types - marine stores usually have a wide selection.

There are also plugs without the handle, but the handle is so handy I would rather change the flange.  However, I simply don't run my cord through the flange at all - I just leave the compartment door ajar when I pull the power cord out.
 
Just leaving the door ajar is what I do now but I will keep an eye out for a larger flange.
 
You can use a standard 5" or 6" deck plate with a twist off or pop-off cap. Here is one assortment:
http://smile.amazon.com/Tempress-43135-Black-Deck-Plate/dp/B000FGTICU/ref=smi_www_rcolv2_go_smi?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Ebay has a lot of them too - I installed a larger deck plate for my sewer hose, to make it easier to get in and out.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=dock+plate&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xdeck+plate&_nkw=deck+plate&_sacat=26443
 
I find myself with the same issue as RPNtraveler!  I appreciate knowing I can replace the end, but as I am traveling in a remote area for a few days, is it safe to use the cord until I can find a hardware store?  Are there any additional precautions I should take, provided I have what?s needed to do so?
 
If you understand the need for the safety ground and you do not have any issues it **SHOULD** be safe but I'd not trust it all that much.

I have a couple of "Extra long" screwdrivers.. these suckers are about 3 feet from handle to tip..  As a Ham radio operator I need to have the rig grounded.. One of them has a ground wire (10ga though a flat strap would be better) clamped to it (one end) the lead then goes to teh chassis and then to the ground terminal on my KAT-1 Antenna Tuner.

NOT the best solution. but it's a good solid ground.. It can usually reach the spot where the A/C condensate drip,drip,drips on the ground (Moist soil)
 
Without a ground connection, equipment becomes a risk of electrical shock to people if by chance there is a short to the casing of the equipment. Many years ago, ground connections were not mandatory in the electrical world. As data accumulated, it was determined that having a ground, was quite valuable in protecting people from electrical shock.

The ground wire is attached at the service panel in the same location as the white neutral wire. It is the destination to the appliance that differs. The ground wire is attached to the exterior casing of the appliance to direct any electricity that may find its way to the casing, back to the panel instead of looking for another path to ground which could be as simple as a person touching that casing and directing the electricity to ground through their body.

The risk that is applied when no ground exists depends on many things but you will probably be fine until you get to the store and make the repair. 
 
Be aware, some of those plugs are a lot harder to splice on than others.  I changed one out a couple of years ago, replacing a 50 amp Camco end, with a new one of the same model.  The new one had been redesigned internally, and was MUCH more difficult to work with than the old one, either that or the new one was a counterfeit Camco plug, made out of inferior plastic, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 822 (members: 23, guests: 799)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,915
Posts
1,387,341
Members
137,667
Latest member
awiltzius
Back
Top Bottom