Electric water heating element

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AKWest89

New member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Posts
2
Location
Texas
So I'm new to the TT lifestyle and recently bought a 2007 Brookside fifth wheel. It has a gas/electric water heater and I'm attempting to replace the heating element on the opposite end of the tank from the access panel, but I seem to have run into a wall-literally. :-\ The water heater is mounted under the frame of the upper section of the trailer with a handy cabinet built around it. However, the tank has been framed around to make a shelf and there seems to be no access to the rear of the tank. There also isn't access under the trailer. Any ideas as to how I should go about replacing the element??? I'm at a loss so any help is greatly appreciated.
 
That's a fairly common dilemma. You may have to pull the water heater out to do it. It should be removable from the outside OK, but you may still have difficulty detaching the wires and plumbing from the backside.

Are you sure you need a heater element? They don't often fail unless it was turned on with no water in the tank.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
They don't often fail unless it was turned on with no water in the tank.

Gary,
Do you know if the element will burn out instantly or will it take a few minutes if the tank is empty?
 
Not quite instant, but will overheat and self destruct pretty quick.  I would think anymore than 30 seconds and it will be done
 
Thanks for the reply, Gary. I was afraid that was the answer I'd get and thought wiring may be a problem if I had to pull it completely out. I'm not 100% sure if it actually is the heating element, but I was told if it isn't heating on the electric side chances are that it's the element. I'm the third owner so there's no real way for me to know what happened with previous use, but it wasn't working when I bought it. I wondered about a short, but that would still require pulling the tank to test, wouldn't it?
 
Since the electrode is on the back, I'm guessing its a common Atwood model heater, and being a 2007 its probably a DSI  model. All the newer Atwoods use a common thermostat and ECO for electric and LP management, so the thermostat is ok if the lp gas mode works. Could be the controller circuit board, though. It has logic and a relay that opens/closes to provide heat in response to the thermostat.

You should be able to get access to the 120v power wire near the back of the heater to check for voltage there.

Download an Atwood Service Manual HERE before assuming the element is bad.
 
Rene T said:
Gary,
Do you know if the element will burn out instantly or will it take a few minutes if the tank is empty?

At least for mine it survived 4 day stretch of being empty and plugged. Still working today. Don't ask why it didn't burn out or burn the RV down?  :eek:
 
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