1990 32' Winne Elandan Ford F53 Fuel Gauge on E all the time ...

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M

Mr. Breeze

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Jan 14, 2014
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Just wanted to check with those of you who have knowledge on this subject ... before I drop the tank ... is it always the sender ?  Is there a test I can perform that is conclusive ?

Thanks in advance !!

Jim
 

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If it has a brass float they sometimes get a pinhole in it ( very common )and it will sink to the empty position. You can test the gauge by grounding the small yellow with white tracer wire at the sender connector , ground the wire then turn the key on, gauge should go to full.  That vehicle has a slosh module so if you don't cycle the key off and then on it may not move. The two larger wires in the connector are for the electric fuel pump and the smaller wires are for the sender. DO NOT ground the large Pink w/black tracer wire as this is a hot wire for the fuel pump and ugly things will occur, LOL. Hope this helps. Mike
 
dragvw2180 said:
If it has a brass float they sometimes get a pinhole in it ( very common )and it will sink to the empty position. You can test the gauge by grounding the small yellow with white tracer wire at the sender connector , ground the wire then turn the key on, gauge should go to full.  That vehicle has a slosh module so if you don't cycle the key off and then on it may not move. The two larger wires in the connector are for the electric fuel pump and the smaller wires are for the sender. DO NOT ground the large Pink w/black tracer wire as this is a hot wire for the fuel pump and ugly things will occur, LOL. Hope this helps. Mike
Click to expand...

I will run that down this weekend ... Thanks !!

Jim
 
I wouldn't even consider dropping the tank just to fix a fuel gauge.  My F53 fuel gauge has been on "E" since the '90s.  I have used the trip meter to gauge my need for fuel for the last 30K miles.

If you do drop the tank, you should seriously consider replacing the fuel pump. JMHO
 
Absolutely would replace the sender too which comes with the float . I have replaced a few of those pump/ sender assemblies and it really isn't that bad of a job . My friend and I used 2 floor jacks to lower the tank and replaced them on my concrete driveway . If you do attempt it be very carefull with the fuel lines and wires so they do not get pinched between the tank and chassis or in the case of plastic lines broken .
 
Just Lou said:
I wouldn't even consider dropping the tank just to fix a fuel gauge.  My F53 fuel gauge has been on "E" since the '90s.  I have used the trip meter to gauge my need for fuel for the last 30K miles.

If you do drop the tank, you should seriously consider replacing the fuel pump. JMHO
Click to expand...

I have been doing just that ... however when I sell this unit in a year or two I would like everything to be working. I have been calculating 5mi to the gal., and logging between 6-8 mpg.
 
dragvw2180 said:
Absolutely would replace the sender too which comes with the float . I have replaced a few of those pump/ sender assemblies and it really isn't that bad of a job . My friend and I used 2 floor jacks to lower the tank and replaced them on my concrete driveway . If you do attempt it be very carefull with the fuel lines and wires so they do not get pinched between the tank and chassis or in the case of plastic lines broken .
Click to expand...

Thank you ... that is the plan ... can you tell a bit more as to the wires and plastic hoses ?

Thanks

Jim
 
The two smallest disconnect tools are the ones you will need to remove the fuel lines from the pump, also used to remove the lines for fuel filter replacement. The wires are normally made into a single plastic coinnector .

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-fuel-line-and-a-c-quick-disconnect-tool-97576.html

removal of Ford fuel line fittings

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xf8D0dOtv0k
 
Just Lou said:
I wouldn't even consider dropping the tank just to fix a fuel gauge.  My F53 fuel gauge has been on "E" since the '90s.  I have used the trip meter to gauge my need for fuel for the last 30K miles.

If you do drop the tank, you should seriously consider replacing the fuel pump. JMHO
Click to expand...
Good advise........ Ours is stuck on "Full"...... we write down the mileage at fill-up and try not to exceed 300 miles before filling again. Our tank is 75G, so technically, we should be able to go 450 miles @ 6mpg so we figure that we should have around 1/3 of a tank @ 300 miles. We would have to get 4mpg to run out @ 300 miles and we have never gotten that poor mileage. The worst we ever got was 5.3 and that was fighting a head wind and climbing grades. Even at that, we could have gone 400 miles on 75g.
 
Wavery said:
Good advise........ Ours is stuck on "Full"...... we write down the mileage at fill-up and try not to exceed 300 miles before filling again. Our tank is 75G, so technically, we should be able to go 450 miles @ 6mpg so we figure that we should have around 1/3 of a tank @ 300 miles. We would have to get 4mpg to run out @ 300 miles and we have never gotten that poor mileage. The worst we ever got was 5.3 and that was fighting a head wind and climbing grades. Even at that, we could have gone 400 miles on 75g.
Click to expand...
Just a guess but you may very well have a wire pinched , you may be able to reach above the gas tank to check the wires. The reason I would take the time to check it is if the wires are pinched then the large pink/ black wire may also be pinched which is the power wire for the fuel pump. It may have worked without shorting for a long time but being stuck on the side of the road is a hastle.
 
If I ever have to get at the top of my tank I'm making every effort to go through the floor under my bed and covering the hole with a marine handhole cover. If there is no chassis crossmember above the fuel pump, it would be easier than dropping the tank.
Yes, I know about fumes, I know gas fumes are heavier than air and most will settle to the ground. Unplug and disconnect battery ground cables, open windows, smoking lamp is out.

Bill
 
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