Power issues in Class A

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4elise

4elise

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2014
Posts
10
I have a 2000 Coachman Mirada.  Powerpanel inside is extremely hot and Main and AC breakers trip often.  I hear a hum, but I don't think the fan it working.  I can usually keep the air running by having a small portable fan blow on the panel.  I hook into a 30 amp pole and that connection is fine and cord is not hot.  Issue happens with air only and sometimes with air and TV or a light.  I avoid running microwave and air at same time as a habit.

History:  I have had the air and main breaker trip before on the panel when I ran air and microwave together.  Try not to do that now. In March, RV repairman replaced double 15 amp breaker for main and air to a double breaker with a 30 amp for main and  20 amp for air.  Didn't run it much after that, so don't know.  A  month ago, my neighbor hooked up a 220 plug for me to hook up in my back yard.  OOPS that was a mistake!!!!  It fried microwave, tv and vhs player.  Don't know if related, but a couple of my sconce lights don't work and my fridge light is out.  Other 12 volt lights work.  Electric power to fridge and water heater are fine and outlets are okay. 

I am concerned that there may be a wiring issue internally or could just be that I need a new fan/converter/panel.  Any help appreciated to trouble shoot. 
 
I would suspect a loose or burned connection inside - that will cause a lot of heat and tripping breakers. But maybe that RV guy wasn't much better with electricity than your 220v friend. 

No telling what hooking up to 220v did - all kinds of damage is possible (and likely). The 12v stuff that is out may be just blown fuses and bulbs - that's about the least damage you can expect from that mistake. Probably took out the fan in the power center too, and maybe some other stuff. Are your batteries still charging ok? The converter/charger component is often one of the first things to go when 220 is applied.
 
Now there are two or three types of power panels...
My coach has 3.. A main power panel 120 volt, ONLY Circuit breakers, no fuses.. .Likewise a sub panel (As above but no "Main" breaker)

And a 12 volt Panel, Only fuses, no breakers (Though some 12 volt panels now have 12 volt breakers).

Some have a combined panel 12 volt fuses (or breakers) 120 volt breakers and a CONVERTER all in one box... this one has a fan, and may hum (or not).

On mine.. In the 120 volt side of life.. I found several screws that needed a bit more tension,, like over 2 full turns more tension.. this (Loose screws causing arcing) can cause intermittent operation, it can cause heat (Poor connection) and it can cause.. Things that are much much worse.

By the way. This (And a few other issues not all with my RV) lead me to the following line; Many RVers have a few screws loose..  Most of them take a #2 Square Bit.
 
My bet is that when the coach was wired up to 220V, it burned out the controller.

I'm just a little confused as to how he actually wired 220v wiring to a 110 circuit. 110v has 1 hot wire..... 220v has 2 hot wires..... the coach only has input for 1 hot wire. What did he do with the 2nd hot wire from the 220v?

Are you sure that he didn't just install a 30A - 110V outlet in your backyard?
 
I bet he installed the outlet and wired it as you would wire a electric stove outlet, 2 hot and a ground.  Whereas a 110v RV outlet would be one hot one neutral and a ground. I would think the actual neutral lead has been burnt somewhere along the way between your panel and the end of your power cord. You are trying to pull your AC load from hot to ground.
 
I'm just a little confused as to how he actually wired 220v wiring to a 110 circuit. 110v has 1 hot wire..... 220v has 2 hot wires..... the coach only has input for 1 hot wire. What did he do with the 2nd hot wire from the 220v?
Click to expand...

It's easy and a rather common mistake by electricians both amateur and pro. The second hot wire goes where the neutral should be, applying 220v across all circuits in a 30A RV. The 30A/120v RV plug and 220v welder outlet are essentially identical in their configuration, so they slip right together.
 
I really appreciate everyone's great info. 
Gary, I'm not sure how to check the charger.  Also, I am from Sanford, FL.  Love Ocala! 
John, I have a combined panel.   
Not sure how I can check some of these things.  Any recommendations as to where to take it to have it looked at?  I am currently in Royston, GA area. 
 
Do you have a voltmeter (VOM) and know how to use it? Basically, with the coach on external 120vac, measure the voltage at the house battery terminals. If it's in the 13.3-13.6v range, the charger system is working OK. If you don't have a VOM, take a look at your house battery monitor in the RV. It lacks accuracy, but if it shows over 13v or something like "Good" or "100%" or "Full", it is probably OK.
 
Well, when I started smelling an electrical burning smell, I had to take the coach in to be looked at.  Bad ground.  Had to get a bus bar and that was it.  Very great RV repair place let me spend the night and squeezed me in.  Twin Lakes RV in Seneca, SC.  Highly recommend them.  Super nice, extremely competent and REASONABLY priced!
 
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