EPDM Coatings
rvupgradestore.com Composet Products Custom Yacht Interiors

Author Topic: No DC power in 2000 Viking popup  (Read 2874 times)

Mr360

  • Posts: 4
No DC power in 2000 Viking popup
« on: August 02, 2014, 04:09:54 PM »
Recently purchased a 2000 Viking popup.  Hooked up a new (charged) deep cell battery and the lights worked.  I even checked out additional DC circuits to see if I had the power to run a small water pump, but I didn't make any electrical changes.  I then disconnected the battery.

 Today, after re-connecting the battery, there are no lights or DC power leaving the converter.  The battery is connected properly and there is 12v entering the converter, but nothing coming out.  The fuses are ok.  The switch that turns off the battery when the camper is in the down position checks out and is in the operational mode (leads connected).

AC power works fine.

I have run out of options.

Alfa38User

  • ---
  • Posts: 5939
Re: No DC power in 2000 Viking popup
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2014, 04:14:27 PM »
Ummm. Converters are powered by 120V AC and produce 12V DC to charge the battery(ies). You have to be plugged in to run the converter. (Unless this was a typo "there is 12v entering the converter" and you meant to say 120V.)

Many Converters have a fuse or C/B on their output to protect them against accidentally connecting the battery backward. Just a momentary connection backwards usually blows it or perhaps it just tripped by itself. (Known to happen!!). The make and model of the converter could confirm this if the diagrams are available on line.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2014, 04:21:19 PM by Alfa38User »
Stu
Montréal, Canada 🍁
Snowbird, Naples Florida
Alfa Gold 38 (2000) 5ver (parked!)

"Of course I talk to myself, sometimes I need expert advise!!!"

John From Detroit

  • ---
  • Posts: 19792
  • ^My New Home^
    • Diabetics Forum
Re: No DC power in 2000 Viking popup
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2014, 04:17:34 PM »
What is the make and model of the converter.... Many older ones have a Magnetek, these often contain a relay that connects the battery to the lights when NOT plugged in and to the converter WHEN plugged in, they also have two fuses, one of them is for the battery side of the converter and the other one could be blown.

But since you said you have 12 volt IN but not OUT, this leads me to believe the converter is also the power distribution panel, and Magnetek was one of teh brands that were often designed that way,,, Others are Parallex (Bought out Magnetek) and WFFCO, and selected good ones.
Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business
My Home is where I park it.

Mr360

  • Posts: 4
Re: No DC power in 2000 Viking popup
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2014, 04:59:30 PM »
Thanks for the quick responses.

I have a Todd PCL12c Battery Charger/Power Center.  120V shoreline power enters from the left and 120V romex wiring for the AC outlets also exits from the left.  12V DC power enters on the right side (red wire apparently from the battery tests good).  Also on the right side there are 4 DC circuits leaving the unit (all 5 wires are in the same quick connector).  On the face of the unit there is an access panel with 2 AC circuit breakers and 4 DC fuses.  AC power works fine but there is no power exiting the DC side-no lights.

I can't find a diagram for this unit on the internet and I can't find any other fuses or breakers on or near the unit.  I know the battery power is arriving at the unit because the red wire attached to the "Battery Positive" lead on the right side is "hot."

Should I cut all power and open the unit to check for fuses.breakers?

Alfa38User

  • ---
  • Posts: 5939
Re: No DC power in 2000 Viking popup
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2014, 08:25:51 AM »
Depending on where your battery is located, (perhaps on the trailer tongue?) there may be a large fuse/breaker mounted on the outside of the frame nearby either in a box or.....

As a last resort, you could remove all power and investigate the inside for a fuse. Some Todd Engineering units had them, others it seems,  did not.

You need to use a a voltmeter/multimeter in cases like this!! Although the units from Todd Engineering are no longer made, I found quite a few discussions on them using google, seems like a common problem!!
« Last Edit: August 03, 2014, 08:40:52 AM by Alfa38User »
Stu
Montréal, Canada 🍁
Snowbird, Naples Florida
Alfa Gold 38 (2000) 5ver (parked!)

"Of course I talk to myself, sometimes I need expert advise!!!"

 

Hosted by Over The Network