30 AMP plug 220V

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
C

cyclegirl1943

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Posts
17
Is there ever a time that a campground should have a 30AMP plug wired for 220V?  We recently stayed at a campground and upon plugging our camper in the microwave and lights blew out, we immediately unplugged it and  I think we may have saved the fridge and AC but still have to test them on 110 after consulting with someone more electrical savvy than myself.  The jury is still out on if the internal wiring has been damaged.  After talking to a security guard at the campground we were told that the plug was 30AMP 220V and it has caused problems for several RVs.  My question is...does the campground have some liability in the damage to our toy hauler?  From what I can find an 30AMP RV plug should never be wired for 220V.  Our toyhaluer is paid for so we do not have insurance to fall back on.  Still doing research into what we need to protect this from happing in the future.  Thanks!
 
cyclegirl1943 said:
Is there ever a time that a campground should have a 30AMP plug wired for 220V?  We recently stayed at a campground and upon plugging our camper in the microwave and lights blew out, we immediately unplugged it and  I think we may have saved the fridge and AC but still have to test them on 110 after consulting with someone more electrical savvy than myself.  The jury is still out on if the internal wiring has been damaged.  After talking to a security guard at the campground we were told that the plug was 30AMP 220V and it has caused problems for several RVs.  My question is...does the campground have some liability in the damage to our toy hauler?  From what I can find an 30AMP RV plug should never be wired for 220V.  Our toyhaluer is paid for so we do not have insurance to fall back on.  Still doing research into what we need to protect this from happing in the future.  Thanks!
Click to expand...
In short, no.  Your statement as highlighted above implies the campground has been aware of a problem for some time and has done nothing about it.  Most likely the reason every RV hasn't had a problem is the 50 amp outlet is wired correctly and RVs not having trouble were 50 amp RVs.  As to the actual problem, I would suspect the common line for the 30 amp outlet is connected to the other leg of the 50 amp service, yielding 220v.  Since this condition has existed for some time and known by the campground (apparently), I would think the campground would be liable.  Collecting on that liability, however, will likely require an attorney and possible lawsuit.  Have you approached the campground manager/owner on this matter?
 
There was not a 50amp plug only 30amp and what I call a "normal 110" like what you find on the wall in your house. Once it started blowing things up we just unplugged I didn't try the 110 because I wanted to talk to someone who knew more about electrics first to make sure we didn't cause more damage. We have not approached them yet but if it is indeed true that a 30amp RV plug should not have 220v to it for any reason I intend to.
 
In very plain English, a 30A RV socket does not have 220V anywhere!  It essentially is the same as the standard wall socket, it just has heavier gauge wire and socket.  There should only be 3 wires attached to it--120V (black or red); neutral (zero voltage-white); and a ground wire.  That's it!

It's a common mistake to mis-wire an RV outlet as if it is a 220V outlet.  In that case usually the wires attached are 2-120V (one black, one red) and often a neutral strapped to a ground.  I believe this was allowable for clothes dryers until about 20 years ago.
 
To answer the question: I have heard of cases where that happened, Someone simply wired the outlet for 240 volts instead of 120..

I have also heard of a case where the story is a bit longer burt I will seriously condense.
Years ago the power transformer blew.. Power company (this is pre-meter) installed a "Tempory" transformer

Aluminum feeders from meter to park distribution panel fried,,,,  Park side of meter, Park manager/electrician replaced with COPPER.

Lower resistance in the wires slightly increased current, blowing the several years old "Temporary" transformer

Transformer to meter connections were done like this
L1
L2
Neutral


Power company techinician hooked up like this
L1
Neutral
L2

As you can see half the park got zapped with 240 volts.

This is why you should always test first, or use a Progressive Industries Power oline guard with LCD display (It will protect you if this happens).
 
Thankfully, i installed a Progressive Industires monitor.....
But I was wondering.... I have never seen such a thing, but does anyone make a small cheap tester for a quick check at the post for a 30A socket?
Like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408387841&sr=8-2&keywords=receptacle+checker
Only for 30A?


hummm.... now that I'm thinking about it, I could make up an adapter cable for my Suretest
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/test_measurement/circuit_analyzers/suretest_circuit_analyzers.jsp
I'd just need an old computer power cord and a 30A plug.....
 
So what I'm gathering is they wired what should have been a 50amp plug to a 30 amp RV plug as a 30 amp RV should never have 220v to it? This was likely due to the fact that some 30amp house plugs are wired for 220v? I appreciate all the information and am looking into the online power guard as mentioned.  Good news is the AC and fridge appear to be working so it won't be as expensive as it could have been. Do I need to have the breaker box and wiring checked out or can I just replace the microwave and fluorescent lights that blew up?  I intend to call the campground and ask them to pay for half since I hold some of the blame since I didn't test it first but I feel like they do to because it is wired improperly and they know about it.
 
blw2 said:
Thankfully, i installed a Progressive Industires monitor.....
But I was wondering.... I have never seen such a thing, but does anyone make a small cheap tester for a quick check at the post for a 30A socket?
Like this
http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408387841&sr=8-2&keywords=receptacle+checker
Only for 30A?
Click to expand...

Sure, just use a 30A male to 20A female adapter and the 20A tester will work just fine.  But your PI power protector does the same thing.
 
cyclegirl1943 said:
So what I'm gathering is they wired what should have been a 50amp plug to a 30 amp RV plug as a 30 amp RV should never have 220v to it? This was likely due to the fact that some 30amp house plugs are wired for 220v? I appreciate all the information and am looking into the online power guard as mentioned.  Good news is the AC and fridge appear to be working so it won't be as expensive as it could have been. Do I need to have the breaker box and wiring checked out or can I just replace the microwave and fluorescent lights that blew up?  I intend to call the campground and ask them to pay for half since I hold some of the blame since I didn't test it first but I feel like they do to because it is wired improperly and they know about it.
Click to expand...

Right, a 30A campground outlet should never have 220V across it.  Check all your appliances to determine exactly which ones were damaged then ask the campground to pay for replacement or repair.  You should not have to share the cost and are not expected to test every outlet you plug into. 

Our toyhaluer is paid for so we do not have insurance to fall back on.
Click to expand...

Insurance has nothing to do with paying for the RV.  You still need insurance for at least liability.  If you had insurance, you could file a claim with them and let them go after the campground's insurance if the campground won't pay for the damages.
 
cyclegirl1943 said:
...  I intend to call the campground and ask them to pay for half since I hold some of the blame since I didn't test it first but I feel like they do to because it is wired improperly and they know about it.
Click to expand...

Don't be so generous. The campground, or their contractor, failed to wire the outlet in compliance with a nationally recognized standard. A 30 amp outlet in an RV park, intended for use by RVs, doesn't leave them a lot of wiggle room on this.
 
Most campgrounds will carry liability insurance, at least for personal injury.  However, they may or may not carry personal property damage insurance.  If they do carry property damage liability, you may have better luck getting reimbursed for your damages.
 
We'll placed a phone call to the campground ofcourse the manager was not avalible.  Well see if I get a call back.
 
I have a small thingy that consists of 3 Neon lamps 110 220 440 and you can use it. Or a volt meter (a 20-30 amp adapter plug makes those easier)

Most of the volt meters made for RV use would have issues with 220 volts.. Still.. 20 bucks beats the damage estimate.

I test the first time in a park to be sure... From then on I trust the last test for that site.. But I do test.. I also use a protector.

Problem with hand held volt meters (Multi-meters) often the probs are NOT long enough to contact the contacts inside the outlet.. I have one meter I modified...  NOTE: for this use meters with single digit price tags are good enough.
 
Can anyone lead me in the direction of the national standard that says an 30 amp plug for RV use should be 110v?
 
cyclegirl1943 said:
Can anyone lead me in the direction of the national standard that says an 30 amp plug for RV use should be 110v?
Click to expand...

Here's a chart, but you don't even need that. It will be printed right on the face of the outlet 125 volts 30 amps. If that outlet is used, it's required that it be the voltage that's printed on the outlet so this exact thing won't happen. All the liability on this one belongs to the park.
 
Water Dog said:
Here's a chart, but you don't even need that. It will be printed right on the face of the outlet 125 volts 30 amps. If that outlet is used, it's required that it be the voltage that's printed on the outlet so this exact thing won't happen. All the liability on this one belongs to the park.
Click to expand...
This is true but it does not stop an incompetent person from wiring a 110 amp outlet with 220.
 
SeilerBird said:
This is true but it does not stop an incompetent person from wiring a 110 amp outlet with 220.
Click to expand...

SeilerBird,
What Denis is saying that it would help a electrician doing the wiring. If it is a campground, then they should be hiring a licensed competent electrician to do the work and who should know better. So they, the campground, are liable in this case.
 
Rene T said:
What Denis is saying that it would help a electrician doing the wiring. If it is a campground, then they should be hiring a licensed competent electrician to do the work and who should know better. So they, the campground, are liable in this case.
Click to expand...
I understand what Denis is saying, but still, just because it says it on the outlet does not mean that is what is there. The campground might be liable, but no lawyer ever takes a case without a large down payment and I doubt that they would even win anyway.
 
The owner is saying:
1. There are national standards that say an RV 30amp plug can also be wired for 220v and
2.  The damage may not have been caused by the increased voltage. 

Guess the good news is they are admitting it is wired incorrectly. They say they have RVS plug in there requiring a 30amp 220 service.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 876 (members: 6, guests: 870)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,981
Posts
1,388,598
Members
137,727
Latest member
Davidomero
Back
Top Bottom