Dometic, Norcold, Electric?

It appears as though my Dometic fridge is on the blink. I went out to the trailer to get ready for a trip, only to discover that the fridge internal temp was over 80 degrees. The trailer sits in my driveway, leveled, plugged in to shore power when it is not on the road or in a campground. I switched to propane, and it started to cool...somewhat. I can't seem to get the refrigerator compartment to stay below 41 and the freezer...well, the Freezer pops are more like slushy pops.

When this trip is over, I will be taking the entire thing apart and making sure there aren't any blockages, etc.

I'm sort of mentally preparing myself for this to get rather expensive. My parents have a '14 TT with a Norcold fridge. It works amazingly well. We are currently across from each other in the campground, so both fridges are in comparable settings, and even on the same side of the TT's so the sun exposure is the same as well. Plus, theirs is the one that everyone is constantly opening and closing the door. All mine has in it are spare drinks and the freezer pops.

If I am unable to fix mine with no more than simple repairs, cleaning, etc...I am seriously considering replacing it. It's somewhat been a hassle since I bought the trailer almost a year ago. (2004 Aljo). I suspect it was not maintained, and since I have found all sorts of other "surprises" on the trailer, I'm not holding much hope for a simple fix.

With all of that being said, I see my options as this:
1) Replace with new Dometic fridge
2) Replace with new Norcold fridge
3) Replace cooling 'module' and keep existing fridge cabinet
4) Screw it all and go full electric with a compressor model from Lowes, etc.

I'd like to have the ability to run on propane, but the reality is that I'm plugged in just about everywhere. Just about.  Obviously, I'd like to keep the fridge running when going down the road.  Plus, I'd like to sell the trailer eventually.  I've heard that going full electric can seriously hurt resale. 


Thoughts?

Dometic and Norcold also make dual voltage compressor type refrigerators. 12/24 VDC and 120VAC.  I have used both brands in boats. Did not have much trouble with either brand. 

Before you spend a fortune replacing it for what might be a simple inexpensive problem go through the troubleshooting steps.  You'll find the troubleshooting guide on Norcold's website or about a thousand other places on the net.  If it didn't work on A/C it could be a simple fuse or one or both of the heating elements.  Inexpensive and very easy to replace.  It could be a simple corroded connector!

If your refer has one of the black thermistors mounted on the fins inside the box move it up to lower the set temprature.  If that doesn't work search for "Muddypaws Mod" on this site, or try an adjustible thermistor from http://www.snip-the-tip.com.

My refer was like yours, it would barely maintain 40F in the best of times, and the freezer was a joke!  I developed the Muddypaws mod after months of beta testing all sorts of things.  It's free.  The snip the tip device is $26.  My refer now stays around 34F and the freezer is at an amazing -18F.  No slushy pops in my freezer!

Months later I added 4 computer fans to draw air through the system and while that did not change how cold it got it did change how long it takes to get there and how it recovers when my DW leaves the door open for 15 minutes while she cooks.

At this point, the thermistor is clipped to the condensate drip tray. 

I don't doubt that I've got an issue with the electric heating element.  That's on the list of things to check.  My main issue is that even on propane the unit would not cool effectively.  My campsite was shady, but it was warm during the day.  (95+)  I have fans in the fridge compartment to keep the air moving.  Coldest I ever saw was about 38 degrees, but it would be gone as soon as the door was opened.  It would take hours for it to get below 41 again. 

Removing the thermistor from the fin may give unpredictable results.  When I did that to mine it actually got warmer.  Probably because it went onto BOS mode.  I.e. A simple timer program for cooling.  Eventually it shut down completely.

Where are your fans? 

BTW, what model Dometic it is?

If the thermistor is flat on the side that contacts the fin I'm fairly certain the mod will work for you.  If it's not that type then the snip the tip adjustable may be a better choice. 

Ah, "Borked".  I'm familiar with the term.  I've applied it several times to my transmitters. 

I've never noticed any sort of a defrost cycle on this fridge.  (Dometic RM2652)  As a matter of fact, before I changed the cooling fins, the old plate (missing over half of its fins) used to frost up all the time. 

The fans are currently on the top shelf of the refrigerator, blowing air towards the fins. 

Ah!  That's why you don't get frost on the fins!  I tried interior fans too, not much difference IMHO.

I added 4 120mm muffin fans to draw air through the heat exchanger coils on the backside of the refrigerator and out the upper vent.  They are controlled by a thermostatic switch simply screwed to one of the fins.  I thinks it's trigger temp is 133F.

It's actually easier to do on refers mounted in slides, good thing as they're the ones with the most airflow problems.

Some manufacturers do a rather poor job of installation.  If there's too much room between the fins and the exterior wall the airflow skips over the fins, if there's incorrect baffling above the hot air pools up there.  Both do bad things to cooling.

Yeah, I'm going to take it all apart and see what's what as soon as I can convince the SigOther it needs to be done. (and to help!)  At the very least, I'm going to take it apart, tighten all the loose stuff, and loosen all the tight stuff and give it a thorough cleaning.  I need to take an ohm meter to the element and see if it's open, etc. 

I've also thought about adding fans to the heat exchanger.  It really all depends on what I find when I finally get to tear into it.  What I am trying to avoid is a situation where  the element tests open, so I get a new element, then the board has a problem, so I have to get a new board, then the propane burner needs to be replaced, so I get a new burner, then the Mr. Fusion can't generate the 1.21 gigawatts, and ultimately I've spent a ton of money and time when I should have just replaced the stupid thing to begin with. 

If I'm going to replace it, then I'm back to my original question:  Dometic, Norcold, or Electric?  Obviously I'd rather not spend the money, but I also have no issues whatsoever with buying what I need to properly fix the problem and stop having it hang over my head.  I fix things for a living, but sometimes they just aren't cost-effective to fix and it's time to replace.

IMHO it's not very likely that you need a whole new refer or even much in the way of parts.

Check the resistance of the thermistor while you're at it.  They go bad too.

You're probably right.  I'm just pessimistic when it comes to this trailer.  I bought it used and it has been one "surprise" after another. 

Simplify your troubleshooting by concentrating on making it work in gas mode first.  See if you have to add fans to the rear, move the thermistor, whatever.

If you can make it cool effectively on gas, that will confirm the soundness of the cooling unit.  Then you can switch to electric and see if the heating element is producing enough heat.

Adding fans improves effiency

Cleaning and routine maintenance.. Likewise

If it is not workign on electric,, First make sure it is getting electricity (Plug test lamp into outlet, use at least a 100-350 watt lamp)

Then check the heat element (Follow the wires to the flue, you may test at either end of the wires)

Then fuses on the connections and control boards

Then the control board, if bad replace with a dinosaur board replacement.

As to 41 degrees.. Folks tell me it can take 24 hours.. Finally

Inside the fridge there is a white plastic clip on one of the fins.. Move it UP to the top of the fin (Or as high as the lead will allow)... And come back in 12 hours (Assuming it is already cold) .

HOpefully, this will fix it.

IF the cooling unit itself is bad.. Consider an Amish Built unit..  Folks tell me they are better (Just like Dinosaur boards are better than OEM but the difference is I have personal experience with Dino Boards)

It seems that 8muddypaws is an expert on the snip the tip product.  My thermistor on my Norcold 611 is reading high ohms, frige is running at 28 degrees.  Moving the thermistor around on fins does not help stop from running so cold.  I'm looking for an assurance that the Articca snip-the-tip thermistor will operate over the same or larger ohm range than the non-adjustable thermistor that came with my RV refrigerator.  I know this post is old, but it is one of the few that talks about this product.  I can't decide whether to purchase the Articca, or replace with original equipment.  Any thoughts would be helpful.

I haven’t had anything to do with Snip-The-Tip for a few years.  So this won’t be a sales pitch.  Rod, the chief engineer and owner is scrupulously honest and a good guy. 

I had trouble getting the prototype to work with my 1201LRIM.  It worked well until the refer went into defrost mode.  Once the fin temp went up and the thermistor did not respond within so many minutes the refer would just shut down.  No alarm, no indication, just off.  We theorized that it was because the device was mounted on the side of the box and not on the fin.  Other 1201s do not have this problem or Rod wouldn’t be selling them for Norcold 1200 series refers.

I just looked at their website.  He’s been busy!  Lots of new things. 

Not often that someone complains about a refer being too cold.    Since you’ve already checked your thermistor and it’s out of spec you can go either way.  Having an adjustable might give you a little more flexibility.

Thank You Sir

I am wanting to talk to someone at the snip-the-tip to find out what the ohm range is of the adjustable thermistor.  For example, the thermistor my Norcold 611v has should read about 24,000 ohms at an ideal refrigerator temp of 37 degrees.  My thermistor is reading over 40,000 ohms at 32 degrees.  It must be clearly defective, but still operating as there are no fault lights coming on.  I am wanting to know the ohm and degree range associated with the Articca tip's adjustment knob.  The web site has no phone number I could see.  I did send email to info@snip-the-tip, but no response.  Do you happen to know a phone number?  Is Attica the company name?  Who makes the product? Any help would help.  Thanks!

I don?t have a number.