Royal Purple synthetic motor oils

Why Use Premium Synthetic Motor Oil?

Are premium synthetic motor oils worth the extra expense for your vehicle? The consensus?the general agreement among automotive experts?is that premium synthetic oils are superior lubricants. In this article, the synthetic oils discussed are specifically identified as premium synthetic oils because, like with every class of consumer product, there are varying levels of quality. Simply labeling an engine oil as ?synthetic? is not a reliable indicator of quality, as the overall formulation of the oil is the most important factor in the quality and efficacy of the lubricant. A well-formulated conventional engine oil can outperform a poorly formulated ?synthetic? engine oil. With that said, beginning the formulation of a motor oil with high quality synthetic base stocks does allow for a superior product compared to an equal quality level conventional motor oil.

Motor oils, and most lubricants in general, are composed of base oils and additives. Discussion of ?synthetic? or ?conventional? relates only to the base oils in the lubricant. Conventional base oils are made from crude oil/petroleum and occasionally re-refine used oil. Synthetic base oils are made from petroleum, hydrocarbon gases, and alcohols. Ultimately, all lubricant base oils are hydrocarbon molecules; the processes by which the synthetic base oils are made is what sets them apart from conventional base oils.

The advantages of synthetic base oils are thanks to the extreme cleanliness and consistency of the molecular structure achieved in the processing. Conventional base oils are typically only lightly refined, with not all of the inherent impurities (waxes, sulfur, etc.) removed from the petroleum. Instead of being simply refined, the crude for synthetic oil is engineered to produce a uniform molecular structure that offers superior lubrication. Finally, proprietary additives are introduced to make full synthetic oil even better.

Premium full synthetic motor oil costs more because synthetic oil costs more to make. The high quality synthetic base oils and state-of-the-art additives used are typically much more expensive than the materials used in standard lubricants. However, with lubricants you do get what you pay for, in that a well-formulated synthetic oil that uses high-quality, synthetic base oils and high-quality additives, provides additional benefits for the higher purchase price.

Keep these facts in mind when you take your car or truck in for its next scheduled oil change.
Advantages of Premium Synthetic Motor Oil

Better High-Temperature Performance. Premium synthetic engine oils are less volatile, so they maintain viscosity better than conventional oils and lower quality synthetic oils.

Better Low-Temperature Performance. The high-quality synthetic base oils used in premium synthetic lubricants provide better natural cold flow, so the oil flows and lubricates better before reaching full operating temperature.

Cleaner Operation. Because of the consistent molecular structure and purity of the base oil, premium synthetic engine oils are more stable, better resist oxidation (aging), and produce fewer deposits. In fact, some premium synthetic oils like Royal Purple actually remove existing engine deposits.

Better Mileage. Because of the superior cold flow, greater lubricity, and cleaner operation of the engine, premium synthetic engine oils can also contribute to greater fuel economy.

Fewer Oil Changes. Do you change your oil every 3,000 miles? Every 6,000 miles? Those are the most common intervals for U.S. cars and trucks. With Royal Purple full synthetic motor oil, feel free to change your oil every 12,000 miles, or 12 months (whichever comes first). That?s 16?50 fewer oil changes over the life of a car or truck that reaches 200,000 miles.

Royal Purple is one of a few commonly available premium synthetic engine oils, so it provides the inherent advantages listed above, but Royal Purple synthetic oils go beyond that, as well. Because of the advanced, proprietary Synerlec? additive technology, Royal Purple synthetic oils containing Synerlec outperform any other lubricant, including other premium synthetic oils.

Synerlec additive technology increases the oil film strength to 3 ? 4 times that of any oil of comparable viscosity. This reduces metal-to-metal contact, thereby greatly reducing short- and long-term wear, as well as damage that occurs at cold start. This incredible film strength along with increased oxidation resistance provides a higher level of protection even when traffic and conditions are at their most demanding.

So, there it is.

Premium synthetic motor oil is better for your engine, better for your mileage, and better for your investment. And Royal Purple premium synthetic oils further increase those benefits with proprietary additive technology. To keep your engine running smoothly for the long-term and to enjoy the convenience and savings of less-frequent oil changes, explore our site and find the Royal Purple motor oil right for your car, truck, motorcycle, boat, snowmobile or outdoor power equipment today.

Looks like right out of the sales listings that a person would have if working for the manufacturer. Cummins recommends  15 thousand mi. oil changes for my engine using conventional oils made for diesels. I use heavy duty oil with as much zink as I can find and change filter and oil each 8 thousand.. That's my answer to high priced " high  quality synthetic".>>>Dan

Sounds like a sales brochure to me, too. And I don't see any actual data that shows that Royal Purple improves mileage or reduces oil changes - just claims to that effect. Nor any statistics or engineering evidence that shows Royal Purple is superior to, say, Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

I'm not anti-synthetic, but this is just marketing hype.  It's gonna take more than this kind of stuff to convince me.

Based on my short research, a good quality name-brand oil of the right viscosity and rating, based on the manual, changed based on mileage or time as appropriate is sufficient. Critical to change the oil regularly.

It seems that for severe diesel applications, such as towing, cold weather starts and hot weather running, quite a bit of encourage for using a synthetic.

As to Royal purple, don't know, but have picked up some comments out there about it being very think and not a "better" synthetic, shearing down under high temperatures. Penzoil Platinum, Amsol, and mobil1, should be on the list of considerations for gas and I assume diesel as well, but didn't take the time to dig deep enough.

As to the post, I agree, reads like someone picked RVforum to include in their advertising campaign. No references for the expert opinions included.

As to fewer oil changes, if I'm evaluating a used RV, I want to see compliance with operator's suggested maintenance unless the mfg of the engine provides an alternative schedule for a specific motor oil. Otherwise, I'm gonna assume a poorly maintained rig.

No proof of benefits stated - kind of an alternative medicine argument - take on their word. Sorry for the comparison for those who swear by alternative medicines, but.....

Well the op can cut and past.
One thing to note is about 20+ years ago Mobil was in a lawsuit against people who were making "synthetic" out of base oil not true synthetic base stocks. Well they lost so now we have a bunch of people selling highly refined oil as synthetic.
Mobile and yes Blue Purple do make a true synthetic. I have not checked to see if it conforms to the current standard for Diesel use mainly API CJ-4 standard.
Cummins does recommend use of a synthetic oil but does not allow for extended oil changes. I change yearly or at 15000 miles and I run Mobil 1 5-40 Turbo Diesel Truck.
You may run whatever you want.
Bill

The one area in this dissertation that is not covered is contamination of the oil from blow-by the acidic content of those gases namely sulphur trioxide and water from condensation(SO3+H2O)=SO4 surphuric acid mist. Delaying the removal of these harsh components is detrimental to the seals and gaskets in the engine.
Personally I have never been convinced the extended oil change intervals deal with the by products of combustion as indicated above.
Just my two cents.  

I'm a fan of synthetics for my tranny and rear differential and extend the change interval based on fluid analysis proof that the fluids are still functioning well. I do not use them in the engine crankcase of either my cars or the motorhome diesel because I prefer to change them at the same time the filter gets changed. I get more comfort knowing the oil is clean than I would get from knowing I have the slightly superior characteristics of a synthetic. Of course, I could have both, but that seems a very expensive way to get a small increment of value. Given the way my motorhome is driven, I could probably use fluid analysis to show that even my Dino oil doesn't need changing annually (it only gets about 6000 miles/year these days), but I would still have to change the filter and add a couple quarts of oil, so it only costs me about $45 more to do a full change.

There is a lot of talk about the quality of lubricating and hydraulic oils and the superior attributes of synthetics, but I'm inclined to follow the API service classifications and trust that an oil meets the claimed specs. I do, however, buy a well-known brand, on the assumption that they value their brand name reputation enough to maintain good quality in their product. Probably naive on my part, but the cost isn't much more.

Both of my cars use an ECM- calculated oil change interval based on actual driving conditions rather than a fixed mileage interval. This usually works out to between 10,000 and 11,000 miles for our driving, which is mostly highway use. In effect, I'm getting an extended interval from the dino oil I use. The interval calculation is the same whether I use dino or synthetic.

While  I don't have any tech data to back this up. I used to be a Pennzoil user. Several years ago while at a national event I was talking to a fellow at one of the tents, believe it was the lucas tent. Anyways I was inquiring about their product. Told the fellow what oil I was using and my change intervals. My oil at the time would be black after two week ends or about 20 to 25 1/8 mile passes on the car. I ended up switching to Mobile 1 and lucas oil stabilizer, Oil was still black after a few weeks but felt completely different when rubbed between the fingers.  During the winter tear down the parts felt  a lot different, much more slippery, and the amount of wear on the bearings were very noticeable much better.

I do know when I was running leaded racing fuel the engine was much dirtier, and the bearings showed much more wear on tear down. My currant engine is over 6 years old but we don't run as much the last couple years.

I'm a firm believer in the synthetic oils over petroleum based oils, although petroleum based oils still have their place. None of our vehicles get many miles on a years time now as we tend to be home bodies. I  still do annual oil changes on every vehicle I own even the mowers.

I haven't changed a set of bearings  now in three years. When I switched to E85 in the race car 5 years ago my engines are very clean inside and only do a annual oil change now. Probably doesn't even need it then. I don't know what actually helped with the wear the oil, the lucas or the combination of the two.

JFR said:

The one area in this dissertation that is not covered is contamination of the oil from blow-by the acidic content of those gases namely sulphur trioxide and water from condensation(SO3+H2O)=SO4 surphuric acid mist. Delaying the removal of these harsh components is detrimental to the seals and gaskets in the engine.
Personally I have never been convinced the extended oil change intervals deal with the by products of combustion as indicated above.
Just my two cents.

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Well let me help you out with a little dissertation on that. The oil that I use does a better job of neutralizing acid and keeping contaminants like soot in suspension than conventional oils. I have proven this with an ongoing oil analysis program. The oil that I changed this spring was still "good" and well within normal parameters. I probably could have run all this year before it needed to be changed. The only way to know what is going on inside your engine is to do a sampling program.
Bill

Sounds like there are a bunch of oil perfectionists driving RVs...guess I'm in good company.

swampdoggy48 said:

Why Use Premium Synthetic Motor Oil?

~snip~

So, there it is.

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Too long; didn't read. So you think the cheap stuff I use is okay?

Nice third post BTW.

The article was not intended to be read like an add for Royal Purple but rather to start a discussion on whether it pays to use synthetic motor oils  and transmission fluids. If they add longevity to the engine and transmission then it would be worth the extra cost to use these products.

Anyone interested in oil, go to BITOG.

The article was not intended to be read like an add for Royal Purple but rather to start a discussion on whether it pays to use synthetic motor oils  and transmission fluids.

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Maybe could have just asked that question? And it has often been discussed here before - try a SEARCH for synthetic oil.

Here are a few prior threads:

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,37388.msg347909.html#msg347909

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,59385.msg551466.html#msg551466

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,7076.msg96503.html#msg96503

On the http://tiffinrvnetwork.com/index.php, under RV Tech Library, engines, synthetic oil benefits is a great cost benefit analysis based on three different models.

"The advantages of using synthetic oils are more notable at either very low or very high temperatures. Good oxidation stability coupled with a lower coefficient of friction permit operation at higher temperatures.  The better the viscosity index and lower pour point permit operation at lower temperatures."

"Bottom Line for Synthetic Oil in the Crankcase ? If we drive our Tiffin RV Product 100,000 miles, using synthetic oil, it will cost us between $627.00 - $850.00 for oil and filter changes."

"Bottom Line for mineral oil in the Crankcase ? If we drive our Tiffin RV Product 100,00 miles using regular Rotella or Delo oil, it will cost us between $560.00 and $970.00 Depending on whether or not we do it ourselves or have someone else perform this task."

"Most diesel engines will run 150-300K miles before any major repairs are necessary."

Actually, as far as components that are lubricated by crank case oil are concerned, the diesel will probably run a 500,000-1,000,000 miles before needing an overhaul or replacement. Whether you use dino or synthetic oils, just as long as it has regular maintenance.

But if the injector pump fails, you will experience a "major repair" event (about $6000 worth) and no amount of Royal Purple will prevent it. Ditto for a radiator replacement, about $3000-$4500. Only a few major repairs are due to "internally lubricated components", as they are called.

RodgerS said:

"Most diesel engines will run 150-300K miles before any major repairs are necessary."

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Curious: Everyone present who has run a single RV enough miles to wear out the engine-- gas or diesel-- please say so. Tell us which fuel-- gas or diesel--and the number of miles you got out of it. Also, please tell us of engine failures due to other components and which fuel.

As a bystander, it seems the question of wearing out an engine is irrelevant to the gas vs diesel issue.

As a bystander, the mileage discussion seems to be irrelevant to the oil discussion as well.

While I tend to agree with Gary about conventional oil and conventional oil is much better than oil 30 years ago. I have seen several problems with turbos and at least one case of  worn valve guides. My plan is to have no problems. That is why I will spend a little more on oil. I am running a oil sampling program and am happy with the trends. My weare  metal levels are down from the first sample where it had conventional oil. I change annually even though the sample report said I could go much longer.
For those who claim that oil is oil contact me and I will sell you my used oil at a discount over the Walmart price. After all it doesn't matter it's oil and it will save you money.
Bill