Going it alone questions...

Hi all   I've been gone a few years and am now going it alone after losing DH at a young age.  I'm seriously considering purchasing an RV and full-timing as my job is portable (kind of like a "find myself and my place again" journey ) and am just beginning to research all that goes with that, including learning to drive something larger than a Chevy 1500 safely by myself LOL.

I've been looking at various options and the fifth wheels really stand out to me for various reasons such as living space, no second motor to maintain, and I already have experience driving a regular PU truck.  I like that I'd have a truck for daily usage, which is what I use currently, rather than a car.  My other consideration is that I have a Polaris ATV that I would like to bring with me so am looking at Toy Haulers.  AFter alot of research on 5's though I am seriously wondering.... can I do it alone??  Many things I've read said "have a spotter" and that hitching/unhitching can be difficult with one person (much less a 130-pound female LOL).  I also see that alot of you have 1T trucks.  I would be willing to go up to a 3/4T but really don't think I'd want to get a 1T for daily use.  Is this feasible or should I just rule out 5's and consider MH's?

Which brings me to my second questions LOL.  I recently saw a TV commercial for RVs where a MH was towing a small PU truck like an S10 or something and had an ATV in the bed of the truck.  Is this possible or only with the larger diesel MHs?  This might solve all my issues but not sure about having to maintain another engine/tranny and all.  SO many questions LOL!  Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated

Good for you for getting out there!

Reminds me of a lady I met a year or so ago..... was hosting at the campground on Jekyll Island, GA.
She was in a Tiffin MH, and was the best host I have yet to encounter.
She made great effort to meet folks at the gate and help them to their sites.  Wonderful lady.....

Anyway.... can you do it?  Depends on you but I'll bet you can, with the right equipment

Seems like you are a handy lady, but if you're uncomfortable about the idea of a trailer, consider taking a class.  Others here that know more about those can chime in.... but it seems like a good idea to me...
for a 3/4 ton, you'll be in a smaller TT.  We've all seen some big ones behind 3/4 tons but from my limited experience it's better to have more of a safety margin with your capacity.  But a 3/4 is certainly fine with the right trailer.  You'll most certainly find many choices that would work for you
Another compromise to consider, IF your trailer needs lean bigger might be a 1 ton with single rear wheels.  Seems to me the only trade off with a SRW compared to the 3/4 is a stiffer ride unloaded.

For my money though, I'm thinking the MH is the way to go..... but for you, that depends a lot on your plans.  Trailers to me are more work, and don't offer some of the same conveniences when it comes to stops enroute.  If you are planning to park places for long periods of time then the set-up work isn't such a big variable.

As for towing a small pick-up.... my class C is rated for towing 5,000#, which I think would cover what you want to do..... BUT my class C is a larger one and is heavy which eats into my overall GCVWR..... so it would be a stretch for me....  For you though, you could likely get a smaller MH and wouldn't have the the amount of stuff that my 3 kids demand.... so I'm thinking that's a good thing to consider.....
The upshot is that you would then have a way to get your ATV from the RV park to a place where you could ride it without hitching up the big 5th wheel... or taking the 5th hitch out of your big truck to haul the ATV!

Glad to see you are remaking your life - I'm sure you can do it!

A 3/4 ton truck will tow a substantial 5W, limited primarily by the pin (hitch) weight the 3/4 ton can handle. Probably around a 10,000-12,000 lb GVWR trailer. Go look at some toyhaulers in that weight range, but I think you may find them lacking in creature comforts for fulltime living.

A 2500 isn't any harder to drive than your 1500, but the extra width of the dual wheels on a 3500 will be noticeable in parking lots and cramped streets.

Hooking up a 5W isn't much of a challenge for one person - the driver can see the pin and the hitch. The "need a spotter" is mainly a ball hitch hook-up concern, in my opinion. However, any time you have to back into a spot, trailer or motorhome, having a spotter makes life easier. Without one, you must train yourself to stop the rig and get out and look. Several times in the process, if need be. It's wisdom rather than lack of skill that makes "taking a look" the way to back into a tight spot.

Pulling a pick-up with a motorhome is another trailer weight issue. Even a small pick-up with an ATV in the back probably goes over 5000 lbs and most gas chassis motorhomes are limited to 5000 lbs towing. But "most" doesn't mean "all" and you might find a used one that does the job if that's the way you decide to go. Most any diesel can tow 10,000 lbs or more, and there are plenty of used diesel coaches at reasonable prices.

Can you tow a small pick up with an ATV with other than a big diesel..... Let me check.

The 2004 Chevy S 10 tipped the scales at 4093 pounds.. 

Most gassers have a hitch rating of 5,000 pounds and an actual tow capacity of less than that.

I did not check the weight rating on most ATV's. but I suspect mroe than a kilo-pound.. Let me do more reserach.

Checked a Toyota Tacoma, it is even heavier.. So basically the bottom line is with most Gassers you woudl be either very near full towing capacity or somewhat over it with an ATV in a pickup truck bed.

That said.. A whole lot of folks tow way farther over the limit.. I mean I've seen folks with like 5,000 pounds of SUV on a trailer towing with the very same chassis and hitch I have.    I do not recommend it, and if you ever have a problem (Accident) you may wish you had not done it (Depending on the other guy and the police officer) but I've seen it done.

Great advice here from the experienced ones.
I like simple solutions that I can build on vs trying to get it right in one go.
Your first key issue is avoiding or embracing a third engine.
Your second key issue is must have a truck, giving up owning a truck, or renting a truck.
Once you resolve both of those issues, the solution will be easier to sort out.

Being single, your living quarters can be much smaller, as long as it fits your business requirements and mental/emotional requirements - one advantage of being single is the ability to make do with less.

One advantage of a toy, as I understand it, is the garage can be used for the ATV and possibly office/business workroom - just a matter of creativity in setting it up. Some of the garages I've seem come with some storage that could be used for the business and the dining room table becomes the work table. Some have an overhead bedroom. That actually means you kill two birds with one stone - no third engine and you still use your truck. Seems ideal to me, though less ideal if you had a spouse to consider. Toy can work well with a dog as well, especially these toys where the ramp turns into an outdoor entertainment space that has a "fence" to keep things in. That also works as an outdoor work area for your business.

Okay, all the weight and engine issues aside and speaking woman-to-woman, I personally would choose a motorhome and a toad.  Single women traveling alone need to consider their personal security.  With a motorhome you don't HAVE to go outside at a rest stop if you need to use the rest room or fix lunch.  With a truck pulling anything you have to get out of the truck, walk around it, and then enter the trailer.  Rest areas aren't always the best places for a single woman to be so I prefer to minimize my exposure to loiterers.  Second, is ease of use.  I can hook up our motorhome and toad myself but trailers are harder for a woman to handle.  I decided a long time ago - after watching some strong men - that I don't believe I'm strong enough to do it.  We're in the same weight range and I'm in pretty good shape but I'd prefer a motorhome over any trailer but especially a fifth wheel.  You could have a truck for a toad and it could carry bicycles or an ATV.  Good luck in finding your new rolling home - whatever kind you choose!

ArdraF

Thank you so much all   Much I need to consider for sure.  The Polaris ATV weighs 748#.  ArdraF, thanks for the input.  It's definitely what I was thinking, that I might not be able to handle a trailer or 5, even though I am very fit.  I guess if the Polaris is 748 and an S10 is like 4050 or so it would just squeak under the 5000# mark for a MH so perhaps I should consider that further.  One thing I don't like is the fact that with a MH if having mechanical problems my house would basically be unavailable to me.

On the 5's I've looked at recently, I've been looking at the "sticker weights" listed and compared to what you all have said it seems like those weights are really low (like 6000-6500#?).  I've read here also that perhaps these weights are not correct/accurate?  Of course, I had the salesman look at my Chevy 1500 and say "oh yea, you could tow anything on this lot with that."  :  Needless to say, I was more confused after visiting there than before!  Tried looking up the tow rating on my current truck, which says GCWR is 12,200 and truck is listed as 5210 on the title.  Info says "max trailer weight 6800, F/R GAWR 3950, GVWR 7000."  When I looked online it says I can tow 9500#.  Good grief!  All this has my head spinning LOL. 

As someone suggested, I have been most definiltey looking into driving lessons/school but have found unfortunately none in my state (upstate NY).  I do NOT want to just get in and "learn by experience" as the salesman suggested "most people do."  Tried asking around and looking online but it seems I might have to travel to learn.  Any thoughts? 

There are MHs with a 10,000 tow capacity as a solution if that configuration is where you are heading.
The jayco seneca super C has a 10,000 tow also.

mountainlady said:

I do NOT want to just get in and "learn by experience" as the salesman suggested "most people do."

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Be very Leary as to what salesmen tell you. There goal is to sell you something and to say whatever it takes to sell it.

Based on my recent experiences with salesmen and women, it's not a big deal. Very simply, just make notes during or after you leave the dealership and then verify every representation they made. You can use the forum, the manuals, and the mfg website, friends, mechanics, etc.

There are a lot of rigs on these larger dealership lots and truly the salesman don't know much about any individual rig, they often say things they believe to be true that aren't, some flat out lie, many of them have never owned an RV, and their job is to sell what is on the lot and any mistakes made are your mistakes, not their mistakes, though sometimes you can hold them accountable if their representation is in writing.

You want to have fun, list all their representation in writing and ask them to sign off on each one.

One sales manager, after my detailed review of a rig, said my opinion was just my opinion. I asked him if he was willing to put in writing, in my words, that all the required maintenance on the rig had been done and done timely. He just blanched and shut up...that is one way to play the game.

Listen close to the words they use, it is very easy to read your own meaning into their words. The reason we don't take our checkbook with us is that it gives you 24 hours at least to cool off to avoid the emotional buy that even the most savvy amongst us are still subject to. Really a pain to do the hard work, feels great to just close the deal.

You probably know all this but my point of view is dealerships is that they thrive primarily off lazy and uninformed buyers. The really good dealerships and salespeople can be great for a savvy experienced buyer if they want what is on that lot, but not without a lot of hard work.

On the 5's I've looked at recently, I've been looking at the "sticker weights" listed and compared to what you all have said it seems like those weights are really low (like 6000-6500#?).  I've read here also that perhaps these weights are not correct/accurate?

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I suspect you have been looking at "Dry Weight" or UVW rather than GVWR. Use the RVforum Glossary to familiarize yourself with weight terms, cause they are going to come up a lot. The dry weight in the brochure used to be outrageously low-ball, but these days it is pretty close except that you must remember it includes no options. But if you look at the UVW on the sticker in the RV itself, it is legally required to be accurate to within 100 lbs for that specific RV.  But that really isn't important because you don't tow an empty trailer. Until you can load yours up and put it on a scale, assume that it will be laed to the max, which means the GVWR weight. Your tow vehicle needs to be able to safely move and stop that much weight. So compare trailer GVWR to the truck's max tow rating and stay under the max tow by a bit to allow for extra weight the truck has to carry, e.g. the hitch itself.

If you would give us the details on your truck (engine, cab style, bed length, year, etc) we cold help you get the right tow capacity, but I can assure you it is not up to what you are asking for.

Unfortunately, salesmen that are on commission will tell you anything to sell a trailer or motorhome.  Lots will give you the weight of the unit and not the GVWR or the maximum weight of the trailer and goods. 

On 5th wheels, look at the rear axle's GAWR or the most weight that can be carried by the axle, as well as the GVWR, or the maximum weight that the truck and trailer should tow.  I've seen a number of 5th wheels being towed by singles, and several of them used tape on the rear window of their trukhs and the pin box to line themselves both horizontally and vertically.  If you are going at it alone, I would suggest getting an automatic leveling system for you unit.

Thanks Elliot.. I was going to add the same thing..  autoleveling.. the hardest part of handling my 40' FW is dragging the power cord out.

Thanks!  So much good information for sure.  Roger, despite what the salesman told me last week, I'm pretty sure my 2010 1500 Chevy (ext cab z71 with trailering/tow package, 5.3L) would not tow what I was needing from reading here and other forums, but the numbers I was looking at on the stickers (and the emphatic salesman) seemed to indicate it would.  Getting confused on that LOL.  I think as you said I might have been looking at the dry weight and will have to go back and look at GVWR instead.  If I go 5th I definitely plan to upgrade to a Chevy 2500 but dont want to have to go to 1T.  Think IM going to look closer at the MHs also now with the tow ratings listed here in closer mind.  I certainly have MUCH to absorb and learn!  Including driving one of these things! 

BTW, what is the "pin" weight you referred to?  Assuming that's the amount of weight that will sit on the rear axle 5th hitch?  How do I find that out for a specific TV? 

Sounds like this is what you need, a real trucker gals truck:

2005 Kenworth W900
Straight 10
Caterpillar engine 475HP
Double Bunk Sleeper
New Rods and Main Bearings
New Injector O rings
370 Gear Ratio
11R24.5 Tires Aluminum Wheels

Have you looked at Travel Trailers? Camera on the back of your truck would aid in hooking up and it would leave the bed of the truck for your ATV.

mountainlady said:

.  AFter alot of research on 5's though I am seriously wondering.... can I do it alone?? Many things I've read said "have a spotter" and that hitching/unhitching can be difficult with one person (much less a 130-pound female LOL).  I also see that alot of you have 1T trucks.  I would be willing to go up to a 3/4T but really don't think I'd want to get a 1T for daily use.  Is this feasible or should I just rule out 5's and consider MH's?

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Lots of good info from the fine folks above...

As for your question, do you need a spotter?  Not really.  For hooking/unhooking/backing, a spotter is one of those things that's in the "nice to have" camp as opposed to the "essential" camp.  For example, see the pic below. 

This is my 30' travel trailer backed in next to my house, and as you can see, it's a snug fit.  I live in the middle of a normal, suburban street....I have to angle the trailer in, I don't have a way to back it in straight....so it has to be done carefully or things will get banged up.  Now, usually, the wife spots me backing it in.....however, I CAN back it in solo using the G.O.A.L. method (Get out and Look).  I back it a couple of feet, disembark, walk back and see where I am in relation to things like the eve on the house or the rock wall separating my neighbor's house from mine....then back it a few more inches, GOAL again, and so on.  Time consuming?  Yes.  A huge deal?  Not really....takes me about 3 minutes to get it in and positioned right with a spotter, and about 6 minutes without. 

The fact that you are female and 130 lbs has absolutely zero to do with it.  It takes practice for everyone.  If you get a travel trailer or fifth wheel, I suggest setting up some cones in an empty parking lot and practice backing it without knocking cones over.  As you get better, move the cones in closer, rinse, repeat.

I'm glad you're contemplating this.....I think you will be too. 

Thanks!  I initially did consider a TT but after doing a bunch of research online got scared off by talk of how much sway and instability they have over the 5's and MHs.  Also very nervous as I've never towed anything before and cant find any place in my state that offers classes.  RV salesperson looked at me like I was crazy when I asked about driving classes LOL.  He said most people just get in and go    Also, wouldn't it put too much weight on the rear of a 3/4T to have the bumper pull TT and an 750 ATV in teh bed?  GOing to a show next week with all this new information and many more questions

If you don't buy from that salesman you get the last laugh. Rodger

Don't be afraid of pulling a TT. Get it properly set up with the correct weight distribution hitch and it will pull just fine. They really aren't as bad to pull as so many like to try and make it sound. If you upgrade to a 3/4 ton Silverado, you will have no issues pulling a TT. It will also easily handle an ATV in the bed with the trailer hooked up. I used to pull like that all the time, from Denver, up and over the mountains and into Utah.