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Author Topic: Designing a RV Garage  (Read 11982 times)

John Beard

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Designing a RV Garage
« on: November 13, 2014, 09:13:42 AM »
I have the pleasure of designing a RV garage, so I've been thinking about what I will have within my RV garage. We are in the initial stages of design, having just closed on the property. Our house will be in the 1,800 to 2,500 sq ft range and my RV garage and shop will be in the 3,500 to 4,500 sq ft range (building a shop is relatively inexpensive since it is essentially a shell of a building). The RV garage will have a 12'Wx14'H door, and the inside bay dimensions will be approximately 20' x 55' x 16' (1,100 sq ft) which will house just about any RV on the market.

I will have at minimum in my RV Garage 50A/30A RV receptacle, sewer connection, floor drain, air compressor... So what am I missing? 
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

zmotorsports

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2014, 09:15:55 AM »
Your missing adding another RV bay and having it next to my house. ;D

That sounds awesome John. 

Mike.
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John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2014, 09:20:51 AM »
Your missing adding another RV bay and having it next to my house. ;D

That sounds awesome John. 

Mike.

We will have a RV guest pad at the new property...so in a couple of years when we are done with this project feel free to come to Vegas for a free stay...
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

zmotorsports

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2014, 09:35:31 AM »
We'll take you up on that.  We haven't been to Vegas for leisure in many, many years.  Usually we are there for the drag races and don't get in to town much.

Mike.
2003 Monaco Dynasty Baroness
2008 Haulmark Edge 26'
2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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Rene T

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2014, 09:42:32 AM »
So what am I missing?

Let me break it in!  ;D  It may take a few years.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
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pml

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2014, 10:03:46 AM »
I have been kicking around the idea of converting a cement block building on my property to an RV barn it's 30'x40 but I would need to modify the doors. they are 10feet high and 11 feet wide but the ceilings are 14' so I have the space. I was thinking of putting in a large wood stove to take the chill off in the winter. I think climate control for that big of an area would be very expensive.

Jeff in Ferndale Wa

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2014, 10:05:38 AM »
I would plumb water in.
I also would add a port in the wall where you could run a hose from your exhaust to the outside, in case you ever wanted to run the engine or your generator while indoors.
Maybe add a connection so you could hook your generator to your shore power in case of a power outage?
Do you plan to heat the building? If so,I would think about insulation.

I knew a couple that built just one building with a living area in part of it, and set up to use the RV as additional living space.
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utahclaimjumper

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2014, 10:40:45 AM »
 The problem with an "RV" garage is it gets used for everything else, my rv garage is 40'X45'X24' with two rollup doors and one walkthru door, one 12X14, one 10X10.  Over and above my "shop" is my truck, 24' foot boat & trailer, two cars, two motorcycles,one 38 foot motorhome, large upright compressor, AND JUNK!!   Make it as big as you can afford!!>>>Dan
38' American Tradition 38TT/330 turbo Cummins
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John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2014, 12:03:14 PM »
I would plumb water in.
I also would add a port in the wall where you could run a hose from your exhaust to the outside, in case you ever wanted to run the engine or your generator while indoors.
Maybe add a connection so you could hook your generator to your shore power in case of a power outage?
Do you plan to heat the building? If so,I would think about insulation.

I knew a couple that built just one building with a living area in part of it, and set up to use the RV as additional living space.

All good points and I added them to my list. The building will be stick framed, stucco/stone exterior, with R-19 walls, R-30 roof, and drywalled. I will add a few swamp coolers for our hot summers and I will have a natural gas ceiling mounted forced air heater for the two-weeks per year we get sub-freezing weather.

If zoning would allow I would just build an apartment inside the shop, but alas it is not allowed.

We are going to incorporate a stand-by natural gas generator into the house/shop construction for long term power outages.
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2014, 12:14:06 PM »
The problem with an "RV" garage is it gets used for everything else, my rv garage is 40'X45'X24' with two rollup doors and one walkthru door, one 12X14, one 10X10.  Over and above my "shop" is my truck, 24' foot boat & trailer, two cars, two motorcycles,one 38 foot motorhome, large upright compressor, AND JUNK!!   Make it as big as you can afford!!>>>Dan

Been there, done that, I've sold everything, Corvette, motorcycles, boat(s), etc., etc...
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

Larry N.

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2014, 12:20:17 PM »
Will a 16' height be enough to let you roam around on the RV's roof when needed? Will there be lighting for that purpose, too?
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John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2014, 12:33:10 PM »
Will a 16' height be enough to let you roam around on the RV's roof when needed? Will there be lighting for that purpose, too?

I thought about that, 16' will allow me to crawl on the roof with ample room. And yes we'll have ceiling mounted fluorescent strip lighting throughout the shop. 
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

utahclaimjumper

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #12 on: November 13, 2014, 01:23:31 PM »
 I'm amazed at how often I'm on my coach roof, always in the garage never outside, it gives me many overhead handholds for safety.>>>Dan
38' American Tradition 38TT/330 turbo Cummins
Jeep liberty 4 down
72 VW Baja 4 down
Cedar City, Utah
USAF vet. 59-63
The difference between intelligence & stupidity is: intelligence has it's limits
      Albert Einstein.
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BobNSam

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #13 on: November 13, 2014, 02:09:51 PM »
Do you plan to have wash up facilities? Maybe a rest area...😊
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dverstra

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #14 on: November 13, 2014, 04:19:26 PM »
Hot and cold running water to wash the rig. Oh...and maybe a bikini carwash 8)
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Jere and Laur

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2014, 04:58:01 PM »
I just finished building a 28x32 addition to my house that I started in the spring of 2011. Instead of stick frame we went with a SIP (structural insulated panel) 6" of Styrofoam and two plywood panels on the outside and inside. Less expensive for the kit with all the cutouts for windows and doors also with all the lumber and trusses and roofing and trim for a finished product.  $36500 for three sides, the fourth side was the original house. R25 sidewalls and R60 blown in cellulose up top, I put radiant heat in the cement slab. Works great. A phone call can't hurt.  PM me for more info. Jerremyp60@gmail.com
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John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #16 on: November 13, 2014, 05:04:56 PM »
I just finished building a 28x32 addition to my house that I started in the spring of 2011. Instead of stick frame we went with a SIP (structural insulated panel) 6" of Styrofoam and two plywood panels on the outside and inside. Less expensive for the kit with all the cutouts for windows and doors also with all the lumber and trusses and roofing and trim for a finished product.  $36500 for three sides, the fourth side was the original house. R25 sidewalls and R60 blown in cellulose up top, I put radiant heat in the cement slab. Works great. A phone call can't hurt.  PM me for more info. Jerremyp60@gmail.com

It looks like an interesting product. I haven't used it nor have I seen it used before. I'll do some research.
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

RodgerS

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2014, 05:09:28 PM »
I would make it a drive-through garage and install an auto-lift, or even better, dig out a rectangular area and add a cement liner with steps so you can work comfortably underneath the chassis while standing up. You may find additional temporary uses for it as well when you are not storing your rv.  :)
Gone RVing with Susan
Class B- RV: 2001 Mercedes CLK320 Soft Top

RodgerS

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2014, 05:17:06 PM »
By the way, if you do put in an open pit service bay, be sure to install a safety net to avoid falls by the unwary or if you forget.
Gone RVing with Susan
Class B- RV: 2001 Mercedes CLK320 Soft Top

John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #19 on: November 13, 2014, 06:08:14 PM »
Although I will allow for a auto lift for the Jeep, it won't be going in on the original construction because of budget limitations. The motor home will just have to be happy on the ground, without a pit. I'll have grand kids running around and a pit is just too much of a hazard. There is no room for a drive through, too bad though that would be cool.
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

Rstrahan

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #20 on: November 13, 2014, 06:25:36 PM »
Can you expand it, budget-wise, to 30' wide?  Even number sizes are easier for companies to build.  For that matter, if you are handy, companies make these things in kit form, you bolt together.  You will need to hire a couple of laborers and get the slab poured.  Be sure to insulate it, using chicken-wire to hold the insulation in place.
Roger & Paula
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Betty Brewer

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #21 on: November 13, 2014, 06:37:42 PM »
Mike ,

We built a 1650 square foot home in  2006 with an RV garage attached.    It is 20 x50 with 16 foot ceilings.  50 feet works but if you have a 45 foot motorhome  it would be nice to have a work bench so longer would have been better for us. Even  though our motorhome is  40 feet there is a good deal of  space taken up by the tow bar on end.  We took many of Jerry Fitzgeralds suggestions and put lots of ceiling lights along the  perimeter of the ceiling.  If the lights are in the  middle they don't shine down when rig is  parked.  Other  must have's have been mentioned, sewer  drain,  50 amp electrical. Water to fill rig.  Lots of  outlets along the walls.  We had tv antenna connections built in the  garage so  he just has to hook up a cable and we have TV inside while it is parked.  Another nice feature for us is that we  had a window placed at the  end of the garage.  Since we live  on a golf course, the  view from the rig is quite nice even when it is parked.  We use  it as a guest suite when we  have  any visitors who don't have a MH.  Our two car garage is open to the RV garage and  I have access directly  out my  back door through garage to  RV.  I love that.  We also  have swamp coolers with vents we can use if rig needs to  run for a short time  inside the vents circulate air.   I manage to store too much junk along the  perimeter walls.  Don't know how to avoid collecting  junk.  You know  Jeep parts, spare tires, sewer hoses Christmas decorations  what ever!   have a yard sale but stuff collects again!

We took tons of  photos during construction so ask away and we'll have a photo to show you!
Betty Brewer

see where we are

JerArdra

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #22 on: November 13, 2014, 06:58:10 PM »
Motorhome Garage

My MH garage dimensions are 50 feet long and 18 feet wide.   The inside ceiling is 16 feet high.  The door is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high (the door header gives 13 feet overhead clearance).  Inside ceiling height is 16 feet.  The sewer drain is 18 feet back from the overhead door so it is in close proximity to the coach sewer drain.  There is one 50 amp and one 20 amp electric socket on their own breakers along with water so I have water, sewer and electric inside the garage (full hookups).   I have a 30 amp electric connection and water at the outside rear of the garage.  This is so I could install an air cooler (swamp cooler).  There are 12 two-tube florescent lights around the perimeter of the ceiling about 3 feet in from the wall.  Do NOT put them in the middle of the ceiling because you will get poor lighting if you do because the height of the MH will block the light.  The overhead door is insulated with styrofoam insulation.  The garage is insulated.  There are three windows on each side of the 50 foot length.  The MH garage is connected to the car garage with a 9' X9' opening and we can enter the house from the car garage.

If I were doing it with more space on my lot I would make it 60 to 65 feet long in order to have more storage space at the front of the MH.  Also, it would add value at resale if the purchaser had a 45 foot MH.  Even though there is plenty of room to open the slide outs and walk around them I would make it 20 to 22 feet wide.  If you think that a Prevost owner might ever buy your property, should you sell it, make the overhead door clearance 14 feet because the newest Prevost MHs with a dome type satellite dish require 13 feet 5 inches of clearance.  The bottom line is make it larger when you first build it because it is MUCH more expensive to modify it later.

JerryF
« Last Edit: November 13, 2014, 07:06:44 PM by JerArdra »
JerryF  ;D  ;D

RodgerS

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2014, 07:46:08 PM »
I think I would just lock the door and keep the little ones out of the garage altogether...they don't need to be into everything. How about install a play yard outside with a little rv playroom for them, then you can have your maintenance pit, which seems to the-no-rv-guy a lot better than crawling under a motorhome or putting it up on some sort of steel ramps, but hey, what would I know.

In the reverse, if you like working on your roof, you could install a moveable rv roof platform for safety sake or a harness attached to the roof. Or just install rv Armor Roof, which is what I plan to install...when the time comes and stay off the roof.
Gone RVing with Susan
Class B- RV: 2001 Mercedes CLK320 Soft Top

RodgerS

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2014, 07:49:32 PM »
Hey JerArdra, sounds like the garage might be built, a few anticipated years forward, for his next rv beyond his current purchase, for when he goes full-time to 45 feet.  :)
Gone RVing with Susan
Class B- RV: 2001 Mercedes CLK320 Soft Top

RodgerS

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2014, 07:51:46 PM »
Now I'm assuming, of course, that even full-timers may have a couple of concrete pads they own, maybe with a garage on top.
Gone RVing with Susan
Class B- RV: 2001 Mercedes CLK320 Soft Top



John Beard

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #28 on: November 13, 2014, 09:21:13 PM »
Motorhome Garage

My MH garage dimensions are 50 feet long and 18 feet wide.   The inside ceiling is 16 feet high.  The door is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high (the door header gives 13 feet overhead clearance).  Inside ceiling height is 16 feet.  The sewer drain is 18 feet back from the overhead door so it is in close proximity to the coach sewer drain.  There is one 50 amp and one 20 amp electric socket on their own breakers along with water so I have water, sewer and electric inside the garage (full hookups).   I have a 30 amp electric connection and water at the outside rear of the garage.  This is so I could install an air cooler (swamp cooler).  There are 12 two-tube florescent lights around the perimeter of the ceiling about 3 feet in from the wall.  Do NOT put them in the middle of the ceiling because you will get poor lighting if you do because the height of the MH will block the light.  The overhead door is insulated with styrofoam insulation.  The garage is insulated.  There are three windows on each side of the 50 foot length.  The MH garage is connected to the car garage with a 9' X9' opening and we can enter the house from the car garage.

If I were doing it with more space on my lot I would make it 60 to 65 feet long in order to have more storage space at the front of the MH.  Also, it would add value at resale if the purchaser had a 45 foot MH.  Even though there is plenty of room to open the slide outs and walk around them I would make it 20 to 22 feet wide.  If you think that a Prevost owner might ever buy your property, should you sell it, make the overhead door clearance 14 feet because the newest Prevost MHs with a dome type satellite dish require 13 feet 5 inches of clearance.  The bottom line is make it larger when you first build it because it is MUCH more expensive to modify it later.

JerryF

You make some very good points. We are gathering proposals to get the Civil Improvement Plans completed, in Vegas subdividing and permitting a piece of raw land takes 12-18 months to get done. I agree I should go a big as I can for the RV Garage, that's why I wanted to get some experienced input.
John & Susan
2014 Winnebago Aspect 30J
2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Toad, a little modified
Northwest Las Vegas, NV

Rene T

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Re: Designing a RV Garage
« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2014, 06:42:55 AM »
I agree I should go a big as I can for the RV Garage, that's why I wanted to get some experienced input.

How about nearly doubling the size and rent out the other half to help pay for the building.  You wouldn't have to go that much bigger, because the slide outs on the other rig would never be opened inside. You would need a second overhead door though.
Rene & Lucille & co-pilot Buddy
AKA  Pep N Mem
2011 Chevy Duramax 2500 HD 4X4
2011 Montana High Country 343RL
From the Granite State of NH
& Florida Snowbird in Lakeland FL

 

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