RV Engines

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have the room and can add a thermostatically controlled electric cooling fan; that should help a lot. My 460 has never gotten into the 'hot' range even on long, slow pulls at 3500-4000 rpm. The thermostatically controlled fluid drive fan clutch just kicks the fan rpm up as required.
 
Karl said:
The thermostatically controlled fluid drive fan clutch just kicks the fan rpm up as required.

Aren't fan clutches like that standard on most engine (especially big ones designed for pulling weight)?  Or did you install an additional aftermarket one?
 
Our Cat diesel has a constant speed fan that runs continuously.
 
Ned said:
Our Cat diesel has a constant speed fan that runs continuously.

Ned

I could very well be wrong, but I thought your engine fan (as was my Damon's) is driven off of the crankshaft via pulley. So the higher the RPMs, the faster the speed.
 
Bob Buchanan-  One other thing I think prolongs any engine is good oil and air filter.  My Banks has an F&N filter and I use nothing but Mobile One.  An old master machanic told me, after viewing many many oil analysis, he wouldn't use anything but Mobile One.  I figured He knows way more than me and if it's great for him it's great for me.  I don't question his knowledge.  I could care less about specs when a man of his knowledge uses it.  Best I can offer you
 
Shayne said:
My Banks has an F&N filter and I use nothing but Mobile One.

I'm thinking you mean a K&N filter, Shayne?  ;)  I've read on other automotive forums also that Mobile 1 is the gold standard when it comes to synthetics, so it's probably the best for all your vehicles.
 
Bernie,

You're right, it runs at a constant speed, whatever the engine is turning at the time :)  But it is constantly turning.
 
Thanks Scotty  Mis = type  K & N it is. It's this stupid keyboard.  fingers work great but some of the keys jump around and are head to find LOL    I got a bfidge to sell too. LOL
 
Ned said:
Our Cat diesel has a constant speed fan that runs continuously.

Ned:

Our fan ran continuously from the time we bought the Tradewinds until last Spring when I found out that there was a fan controller that had failed. When that happens the fan goes to high speed to protect the engine. The side radiator and controller is a Freightliner supplied system.

When I replaced the controller our fuel mileage went from an average of 8.2 to 9.0. The fan uses 38 HP of the Cat's 330. The only change I see is the way the controller fluctuates the temps on our VMS from about 196 to 201 degrees instead of a 182 degrees until the temp comes off the thermostat and starts to slowly climb as we climb a grade or drove in hot conditions.
 
Our fan runs continuously and we get 9.7+ MPG :) so I'm not concerned about it.  Our fan has no control other than engine speed. Engine temps rarely goes above 190F.
 
"Water pump took out the timing belt, bent some valves, maybe punched some holes in the pistons. Don't know yet; haven't gotten all the other stuff off so I can pull the heads."

I always thought it was so stupid to design an engine to self destruct when a piece of rubber breaks. And then to put a water pump on the timing belt to increase the odds of it breaking.

I have a 1997 Sebring Convertible V-6 (2.5L) that's designed that way (interference engine with timing belt driving water pump). I make sure I change the timing belt every 60K (which is a hassle in this vehicle), but I always wonder if this is going to happen to me too. They sometimes break before the recommended time. At next timing belt change, I will change the water pump too. Perhaps I should have changed it at 60K too -- but I hope not.

                                                              -Don-
 
Don,
The sad thing is that I had noticed a small coolant leak from the water pump, and was driving to the local Dodge dealer to have it fixed when it died. Current serpentine and Gilmer belts are far better than the old v-belts in terms of longevity, but you're right - poor engineering to save a dollar or two. There's no way to check them; they're buried under a mass (or is that mess?) of other stuff. Not surprisingly, almost 95% of newer cars have interference engines. They're trying to get the most power out of the smallest displacement possible. The older engines had the advantage of roller chain valve train which almost never broke, and v-belts that you could see and touch and replace before they bit the dust. Not anymore :'(  Sometimes progress isn't. Minimum repair cost: $650 ea. for rebuilt heads, $4500 for short block if pistons are broken, another $500 either way for water pump, idlers, belts, etc. And that doesn't include labor, but I'll do that myself.
 
"Not surprisingly, almost 95% of newer cars have interference engines."

It's not quite that bad.  You can find a Gates timing belt chart that shows all engines that have a belt and if they are of the interference type or not. You may find it interesting that almost no Toyotas (none except for a couple of their newest)  are interference engines, but ALL Hondas are, no exceptions. Most other brands are well mixed. IMO, it's not worth the small MPG improvement to have an interference engine, especially when it's a timing belt that drives a water pump. The money saved in gasoline will not replace a new engine.

BTW, anybody who has a timing belt in a car should download this chart from Gates. It's important to know if an engine is of the interference type. It's explained at the bottom of this file: see here.  And download the "Timing Belt Replacement Guide". It's a PDF file

I would like to find such a chart for timing chains (not belts) if such exists. I had the timing chain break in cars and then simply junked them, where if I knew for sure they were NOT interference engines I would have repaired them myself. I just assume the worse case.

While the timing belt may be better than V-belts, it has the heaviest load and is often the very first belt to break in an engine. BTW, some old Chevy engines used nylon teeth on the timing chain sprockets so the timing chain would fall off when the teeth wore down. This happened to me TWICE!  At least most people (or at least many people)  know to change timing belts at 60K or whenever recommended,  but not many even think about dealing with timing chains in a vehicle that is running fine.

BTW, what type of Dodge engine was that, year and size? How do you know it bent the valves? Sometimes, I hear of interference engines that did not get damaged, when the belt breaks at slow speeds.

                                                  -Don-
 
Don,
It's not quite that bad.  You can find a Gates timing belt chart that shows all engines that have a belt and if they are of the interference type or not. You may find it interesting that almost no Toyotas (none except for a couple of their newest)  are interference engines, but ALL Hondas are, no exceptions.
You're right - it isn't quite that bad and it's mostly the newer ('95 on up) engines.
It's a '93, 3-liter, DOHC, 24-valve, twin turbo Dodge Stealth R/T (Mitsubishi 3000 GT). I can't say for certain that the valves are bent until I pull the cams to see if the valves all seat properly, run a boroscope in the spark plug holes to look for any damage to them or the pistons and, if not seeing any, run a compression and leak-down test on each cylinder.

I'd heard about the nylon gear problem but never ran into it myself, having worked mainly on big-block Chrysler and Ford engines. The old front-to-back mounted engines had a big advantage. The change the belt or chain, you just had to pull the radiator, fan, water pump, dampener, and timing chain cover. The transverse mounted engines are, in many cases, a whole lot harder to work on what with all the accessories to remove and virtually no space to work in. A belt replacement now can cost upwards of $500-$600, but that's still cheaper than replacing the engine!
 
Jeff Cousins said:
Ned:

Our fan ran continuously from the time we bought the Tradewinds until last Spring when I found out that there was a fan controller that had failed. When that happens the fan goes to high speed to protect the engine. The side radiator and controller is a Freightliner supplied system.

Jeff

Ned's system has a rear radiator attached to the drive shaft. As Ned noted, when the engine is turning the radiator fan is turning. :)
 
Actually, the radiator doesn't turn but the fan does :)
 
Ned said:
Actually, the radiator doesn't turn but the fan does :)

Ned, do you have one of those old models ??? ;D  Actually, sorry I left the word fan off after the word radiator. Have edited it. thanks.
 
You guys are a riot ....

You got me to thinking though.  Maybe I'm actually getting better fuel mileage on my old 460 from my engine fan turning so fast.  It may be acting as a propeller.  I hope that's the case anyway since I just went out and kicked out the front grill.  It now looks like the RV from HE** but hey... whatever works.

lou
 
It has been proven the K&N Air Filter is not a good filter.  Lets lots of air in so miliage might increase but it does not filter our the fine particles.  I had one in our Dutch Star and thought I could clean and reuse it.  No way.  There cannot be even the slightest dirt left after cleaning and re-oiling or you will blow the engine.  Best to put in a whole new paper Cat filter - case and all.  No danger of contamination.  I have one on the Jeep because there is no other filter that will fit with the M&G brake system but ..

Also Mobile 1 is a good oil but not the best.  AMSOil specs exceed those of Mobile 1 by far.  Macanics hate to talk about AMSOil because they cannot stock it for sale.  It is more expensive but does not need the frequent changing.  Mobile 1 is a good buy more so if you are on the 3000> 6000 mile change.  Buy if going for by-pass filtering and extended changes the AMSOil is good for over 600, 000 miles.  Filter changes ever 3000 miles or so and constant oil testing.

This is my opinion.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
131,953
Posts
1,388,140
Members
137,707
Latest member
Opal6502
Back
Top Bottom