Tiling bathroom

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

amurray

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Posts
7
Location
Riverview Fl.
We are new to forum, not rv'ing however new to remodeling. We just finished tiling the back splash in kitchen and on to the next project. Currently its the pan and plastic wall insert. Leaks into the storage compartment below figured if we have to take it out to repair leak might as well upgrade. I just read to use silicone adhesive as well as grout and keep tiles to2" should be fine. What do you suggest for substrate? Husband thinks concrete board I think it s to heavy. Your thoughts?
Amurray
 
I did mine with cement board 1/4" and tiled with tiny mosaic tiles. I used an adhesive with silicone in it and then grouted it all with pure silicone. Looks great, has stayed adhered great even down the bumpiest roads and is a breeze to clean. The overall weight didn't seem to be a concern it really isn't that heavy.
 
Thank you! We went today to Home Depot to see the shower board they have. It's all white but can be painted, did not care for that. So we appreciate the knowledge that we are going in the right direction. Will take some photos along the way because if we can do it anyone can.
 
If you are tiling with house style materials, you'll need some sort of waterproofing. Cement board isn't waterproof. My suggestion would be for Kerdi board which is waterproof and very light weight. Where the walls intersect, you use kerdi band, which will also help with the movement and make the inside corner water tight.
 
Problem is that RV walls and floor are not as stable as a residence.  Odds are cement board, tile, etc will crack.  While tile is pretty, I would recommend a fiberglass or equivalent one-piece unit to be sure to eliminate water leakage.  There are some very nice units, much better than the $59 Big Box units.
 
Being an RV there are two factors that are most important, weight and vibration.

Cement board is too heavy. I would go with a water resistant drywall or styrofoam wall board sold under many trade names. These are very stiff and hard, not like the regular styrofoam that breaks apart. I would wrap the walls with a Kerdi membrane. This is sold by the schluter company, but they have knock offs at any big box hardware store. This membrane is light and will render the walls 100% waterproof.

For tiling I would go with a smaller tile. I think a 6" tile max. I would also watch the thickness of the tile. Too thin might crack, too thick will be too heavy. For glue (mortar) and grout make sure to buy the ones that have a elastic compound in them that compensate for movement.

This should ensure a long water free life. And keep extra grout and tiles stored somewhere in case cracks in grout or tiles happen later on.
 
Kerdi products are really great, but the price is very, very high.  I recently tiled a 36' exterior roof deck over Schlaeter membrane.

An option would to be to use the Charles Hardy's version of Wonderboard--not a concrete based product. It's lighter in weight.  After the side walls are installed, reinforce the corners with a net style tape.  And apply an elastomeric coating called Redgard (avail. at Home Depot) to completely seal the walls and joints--2 coats.  I have a buddy that's an industrial tile mason, and he's never had the first leak using Redgard.  He even uses the stuff on poured shower pans before using thinset mortar to hold down the floor tiles.
 
I agree redgard is a good option. Just remember that you only want to do this once, so materials are not where you want to go cheap.
 
Hi All -

What were the final results on this tiling job? We are looking to do something similar in our bathroom and wondering what worked and what didn't.

Thanks! :)
 
Back
Top Bottom