I have heard of this happening, but not to me!!!
- Thread starter Jaaybird
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I don't see the point of plugging anything in until you have "checked" the pedestal. Then you need not only surge, low/high voltage, reverse polarity, open ground, open neutral protection, etc. = Progressive EMS-HW50C.
This thread is exactly why I choose not to just jump out and buy an rv as many encouraged me to do, as if I was gonna die tomorrow. But, to first go through the service tech training and the inspector training. And, I'm having a blast. I will be on the road Sat going to Arizona for a weeks advanced rv inspector training (just became certified as an rv inspector) next week and just started my advanced electrical specialist training as well.
One could do a lot of good by spending some time reading the great articles in the RV safety section of the No Shock Zone. http://www.noshockzone.org
Start with learning about the hot skin.
No need to be wrecking your dream vehicle that so much money was spent for.
This thread is exactly why I choose not to just jump out and buy an rv as many encouraged me to do, as if I was gonna die tomorrow. But, to first go through the service tech training and the inspector training. And, I'm having a blast. I will be on the road Sat going to Arizona for a weeks advanced rv inspector training (just became certified as an rv inspector) next week and just started my advanced electrical specialist training as well.
One could do a lot of good by spending some time reading the great articles in the RV safety section of the No Shock Zone. http://www.noshockzone.org
Start with learning about the hot skin.
No need to be wrecking your dream vehicle that so much money was spent for.
B
bucks2
Guest
Ned said:
I was coming from the angle that if someone doesn't know 30 amp from 50 amp by looking at the plug, I'd not be expecting them to pull the faceplate off the main electical panel and identify a breaker spanning two buss bars or only one. Most likely they'd look at the lever.
Ken
No one suggested opening the panel, just looking at the breakers will tell the story. A dual breaker takes 2 slots and is easy to tell from a single line, single slot breaker. A 50A breaker may have one or two handles, but it will still be a dual breaker. Usually the two handles will be ganged together to act as one.
B
bucks2
Guest
Ned said:
Put yourself in the position of someone who doesn't know electricity. You don't know how wide a single breaker slot is or a double breaker. You are looking for a breaker with 2 handles, or maybe one, "but it will still be a dual breaker". Now here's your breaker box.
Which are the "double breakers"? Which are the single breakers?
You and I Ned, know the 50 is a double breaker even though it looks very much like a block out panel to the left of the single lever 50 amp breaker. You and I know those breakers in the center are half breakers, but with two handles, someone could easily think they are "double breakers". This panel happens to be well marked, and the breaker amperage is well marked on their levers. Have you seen some that aren't? Me too.
I'll bet there are dozens of people following what were saying here, learning, and trying to make sense of their own systems. The more clearly we can explain, the better we all are.
Ken
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John From Detroit
Well-known member
On most Motor homes,, in fact all of the breaker boxes I have seen, there is one for sure way to tell if it is 30 or 50 amp
On the 50 amp unit the main breakers say "50".. and on the 30 amp unit the main breaker says "30" either on the handle or on the body usually above the handle (or button in the case of a Push-Matic type)
On the 50 amp unit the main breakers say "50".. and on the 30 amp unit the main breaker says "30" either on the handle or on the body usually above the handle (or button in the case of a Push-Matic type)
B
bucks2
Guest
And every breaker box is labelled as well as mine. I think there's no problem then.
Ken
Ken
T
TonyDtorch
Guest
so.... you probably also become an ASC certified mechanic before you bought your 1st car ?RodgerS said:
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Tony..... Finding a decent mechanic or technician to work on your car is rather easy.
Finding one to work on an RV.. Not always so easy. I like the idea of getting certified.
PLUS..... IF he knows how to fix it, he can save big time by two things.
First: WHen he inspects it and finds this, and that, and the other thing that needs attention (And he will) He can talk the price down.
Second, he can look for one that needs a bit of ..... Technician help,, and help it to be good as new or just like new, doing the work himself and saving around 100/hr on labor.
Makes sense to me... I have often considered taking the training myself, For just that reason.
Finding one to work on an RV.. Not always so easy. I like the idea of getting certified.
PLUS..... IF he knows how to fix it, he can save big time by two things.
First: WHen he inspects it and finds this, and that, and the other thing that needs attention (And he will) He can talk the price down.
Second, he can look for one that needs a bit of ..... Technician help,, and help it to be good as new or just like new, doing the work himself and saving around 100/hr on labor.
Makes sense to me... I have often considered taking the training myself, For just that reason.
Houston Remodeler
Well-known member
^^ Agreed
My 36 years in construction have been invaluable when purchasing homes, RVs and a few other items. ;D
My 36 years in construction have been invaluable when purchasing homes, RVs and a few other items. ;D
