2005 Itasca Horizon 40AD - new flooring project

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The only way wood can be added to the slide is by adding a layer of plywood. The layer can vary in thickness due to the configuration of your slide, type of wood installed and type and dimensions of the stair nose trim used. By adding all this on the slide, there is some deflection when the slide is retracted and I caution clients on this. The strength is when the slide is deployed and rests on the main floor.
 
with 99% completion:
 

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Ernie Ekberg said:
The only way wood can be added to the slide is by adding a layer of plywood. The layer can vary in thickness due to the configuration of your slide, type of wood installed and type and dimensions of the stair nose trim used. By adding all this on the slide, there is some deflection when the slide is retracted and I caution clients on this. The strength is when the slide is deployed and rests on the main floor.

Have you had any issues with slide operation by adding all this extra weight?  What's the dimension of the gap when the slide is retracted?  Could you just locate like maybe a rubber block to slide in the gap just during travel
 
Looking good John, you took it to the right guy. its one thing to hear how good someone is, but it's awhole different ball game when you see how good he is. Someday Ernie I will have the time and money to come see you. great job.

have you ever done that dark wide plank stuff that looks like a barn wood or stone?
 
with all the tile removed at 5+ pounds per square foot,, the weight of the wood is a non issue. I give clients pieces of LVT planks to put under the side when it is retracted in case the side is running low.
I have installed 6, 3/4 inch planks
The gap when closed is around the same as when it had carpet wrapped on it.
 
Ernie's craftsmanship is great, but what really impresses me is that he can stand after kneeing with his legs tucked under him like that while he works. 
 
kjansen said:
Ernie's craftsmanship is great, but what really impresses me is that he can stand after kneeing with his legs tucked under him like that while he works.
and-- after 43 years in the business, with no knee pads- pretty good for old geezer
 
kjansen said:
Ernie's craftsmanship is great, but what really impresses me is that he can stand after kneeing with his legs tucked under him like that while he works.
Ernie's version of Yoga  ;D.

It all looks so great!  We had to leave the coach with Ernie due to prior commitments so we are very anxious to see it in person.
 
No, not at all.  Ernie charges $300 a day for labor and our engineered flooring was less than $2k - forgot the exact amount.  Then some odds 'n ends which were less than $500.  I think we'll have around $5k in the entire project.
 
Finally had some decent weather to completed the complicated entry.
 

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congrats on the new flooring. wife and I found some dark cherry flooring at lowes that we really like, but it is a lamente snap lock was wondering if it would work in the mh or if the floor needed to be glued down?
 
Since I like to cut the material tight against the walls, that is why I adhere the engineered wood. The snap lock system has you angle the whole row of material and fold it down. That is why it is not possible to cut it against the walls and trim must be used. Ok for a S & B home
 
Ernie, great looking job.

John, congratulations on your new "look", it is certainly a nice investment, and I love the entryway and your choice of color.

 
Thanks John!  Unfortunately the entry area needs to be redone, Ernie didn't realize the two middle steps are hinged to provide access to the HWH pump/reservoir/solenoid unit.  We'll head there after we leave Moab in early May.
 
wife and I found some dark cherry flooring at lowes that we really like, but it is a lamente snap lock was wondering if it would work in the mh or if the floor needed to be glued down?

I don't see any problem with it, but you do have to use trim moldings if the floor is floating (not glued down). Fitting moldings around the entry steps can be tedious and may have some tripping potential if the moldings are thick. If you have a flush floor slide, you also need to look under the lip of the slide and figure out how to lock down the edge of the laminate underneath it. Just how you would do that depends on the design of the slide.
 
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