2005 Itasca Horizon 40AD - new flooring project

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The flooring looks great. I have decided to do something very similar to my Ultimate Advantage. It's hard to see, is your slide out is flush with the main floor ? The slide on my U A is elevated a couple of inches but it is hidden by the sofa. Is the transition between the slide and main floor an issue ? Also is your installation " free floating " or did you glue down the wood flooring ? I am getting varied opinions about glued down vs. " free floating ". Thanks !
 
My large slide was flush to the floor but now it has bull nose edge trim so it's up a bit off the mail floor. Ernie uses an adhesive to on the flooring. First he uses a spreadable filler on the plywood to level it out, then the adhesive, then the flooring.
 
Thanks John. I'm glad to hear it is glued down and hopefully have had no issues with expansion and contraction of the wood. I just couldn't come up with a way to make it work using the free floating installation as opposed to glue down.
 
I have adhered all the engineered wood products for years without any issues. I won't install anything floating- guess I'm too old to learn at 69. I work with what has been the best method for trouble free installation.
 
That's good to hear Ernie and confirms that this is how I want to do mine. Again excellent job and I will be referring back to the post for information as I tackle the project. My biggest obstacle now will be trying to time the job with the weather conditions. Everything I have read states to keep the RV and the flooring at above 60 degrees for a few days before installation. I may put a couple of ceramic space heaters inside to warm things up.
 
You need at least 60 degrees on the floor-- that is the most important thing as the adhesive is designed to cure at that or above temperature. Also- you must keep it warm after the installation for a few days. Some adhesives take longer. The urethane adhesive I use has no water in it and uses moisture in the air to cure.
 
Powerhold, Stauf, Roberts, all make quality adhesives. Use the proper trowel listed on side label for correct amount of adhesive. I use to spread the floor- which is the method of installation in a home, but now I butter the back of each board and install it immediately. You do not want the adhesive to flash dry as it has already started its' curing process. Clean up with laquer thinner or mineral spirits. If all this seems daunting- bring it to me.
 
Thanks again Ernie. It may come to that ! LoL. Actually I have an extensive background in home construction. My main reason for some of these questions is to find out how relevant that is to work being performed on my RV. I have installed a lot of both 3/4 " tongue and groove to the new laminates. I live in a climate ( Ohio ) where we have dramatic weather changes. Just a few weeks ago we had 3 " of snow, a couple of days later it was 71 degrees. The next morning it was 28 degrees. The joke is if you don't like Ohio weather just wait 10 minutes and it will change. Expansion and contraction of the flooring is my main concern, especially with the wood flooring glued down. Is there a big difference between polyurethane and regular urethane adhesives ? I have used the Loctite brand PL adhesives in a tube form with good luck on other projects but " buttering " the strips might be a bit more difficult . Again thanks for you time and expertise !
 
The reason I like engineered wood so much, once you adhere it with urethane adhesive and the adhesive cures the wood does nothing but lay there. It does not cup on the edges like 3/4 wood does when there is excessive moisture. I have used all kinds of urethane adhesives. The acrylic urethane does not make a thick dry membrane in the bucket, which is a lot of waste
 
Again Thank you Ernie for all of your valuable information. I will try to post pictures during the make over. All the upholstery i.e window treatments, dining room chairs, jackknife sofa, back splash tile, etc will be changed out to keep the Lady of the Coach happy !  What have I gotten myself into !!  LoL  This is a before shot of the bedroom and main salon before I start ..... providing I get them to transfer .
 

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If you are going to replace furniture, better get the replacements ordered at least two months in advance. We replaced our dual recliner sofa/Euro recliner chair with two small matching La-z-boy recliners that we had to order. Took TEN weeks to finally get them.
 
Ernie Ekberg said:
The reason I like engineered wood so much, once you adhere it with urethane adhesive and the adhesive cures the wood does nothing but lay there. It does not cup on the edges like 3/4 wood does when there is excessive moisture. I have used all kinds of urethane adhesives. The acrylic urethane does not make a thick dry membrane in the bucket, which is a lot of waste
I installed a floor with cheap material and it blistered with just a drop of water. You couldn't get to the spill fast enough to stop it from blistering. It was a learning experience. Luckily it was in my sticks n bricks (which has been sold) and not in my coach.
 
John thanks for the heads up regarding delivery time on new furniture orders. I will be reupholstering the existing sofa and leaving the J sofa alone. I don't know why but the jack knife sofa on the slide out side and the window valences fabrics are in like new condition but the fabric looks like something out oh the 60's or 70's. The wife and I want something a little more to our taste. Also the height of the back of the sofa is only 32 inches and everything else I have looked at is much taller and would block much of the window. The 2 inch elevation between the slide and the main floor contributes to this problem.
 
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