All gauge's stopped working

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Art In Mobile

Art In Mobile

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Jan 5, 2009
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372
Before I waist time looking for this fix I will ask in-case someone else has had and fixed this problem. When started all is OK for about 10 seconds as all gauges read fine, then drop out as computer cycles. Motor still runs fine. 2006 Winnebago Voyage Ford V-10. If no one answers will let you all know what it was when I fix it. Just trying to save time.  Thanks in advance. Art



Edit by staff: changed message icon to topic solved
 
I've never checked for a circuit board behind my gauges in the MH.  On my Adventurer though, it just lifts up, so its very easy to see behind your gauges.  But I've had trucks that had a circuit board behind the gauges that controlled them.  I got a new circuit board from the dealer, it was about $300, and I replaced it myself, that cured the problem.  Another vehicle had the same problem, this time it was not the circuit board, (I spent the $300 first, it didn't fix the problem on this unit)  but at the shop they replaced the engine control module, which fixed the problem.  So unless you can diagnose which one it is, both of those options are expensive. 

I would certainly check all my grounds first, that is a cheap fix, that even if it doesn't work for this problem, it is always good to have good, clean, tight, grounds.  All electrical systems work better the good grounds.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I also suspect the ground to be the problem but it all works for a few seconds when the key is first turned on during start up. After its computer cycle either it is loosing its ground as it switches to run mode from start mode or the ecm is going bad. Not having the protacall info schematic of the ecm it is hard to pinpoint the problem. Thanks Art
 
I realize my 95 is a great deal older than yours but when mine does that it is a ford relay in a panel of relays beside the fuse block in the front.
 
Thanks Catblaster, but I already tried switching out the relay's as they are all the same I just switched them around with no luck. The gauges work fine when I leave the key in run, without starting the motor, but when I start it, the gauges work for about 3 seconds then quit even though the motor keeps running fine. Your relay idea was a good one but so far no joy! Some how when we go to start the gauges must get power from another circuit. Thanks, Art
 
John, I thought about that also but it cuts exactly 4 seconds after I start the engine. Just like perfect clockwork. It is like the ecm goes threw its checks then when it is done checking off  go the gauges.  Exactly 4 seconds later. Engine keeps purring along like nothing is wrong. You might be correct but I can't see why the gauges stay on like clockwork for that 4 seconds.
I will investigate the key switch. Thanks Art
 
Sounds more like it's not receiving data from the PCM, dash does it's self check, then nothing. But it works with the key on? That is, if you key on and don't start the engine the gauges work? Only stops working when the engine is running? Hmmm...

Have anything plugged into the OBDII port? I think if the data bus was shorted there it would kill the gauges. Need to look at some wiring diagrams...
 
ennored, I am starting to think like you. If I start it and let the motor warm up the temp gauge and all other gauges say zero, but if I stop the engine and turn the key to on only (don't start motor) all the gauges work normal, temp normal, gas full ect. Thanks Art
 
Fixed it! As my Ford chassis has no volt gauge, I did not pick up on it sooner. The alternator output wire going directly to the battery rubbed and chaffed on the fan belt pulley causing the regulator to somehow over produce volts.  I was reading over 19 volts causing the instrument cluster gauges to shut down due to over voltage. I assume the cluster has over protection built in as it is OK now. I suggest to all Ford gas units to check and reroute that output wire away from all front serpentine belt pulley's. Why it did not catch fire is beyond me as there is no fuse between the battery and  the top heavy gauge wire terminal. Could be as it only shorted while running intermittently  it could not weld itself to the pulley.  Art
 
I now know why it did not short out when the pulley cut into the wire. The pulley is not metal it is Phenolic . Learn something new every day even at this age!
 
That wire is where the regulator gets its reference voltage from. I can only guess but the regulator went out at only 30,000 miles. This alternator was so hard to get to I did not just replace the regulator but also the alternator which has a removable regulator on it. It could be the regulator just went bad but in a little more cutting of that wire by the pulley it would have completely severed and then it could touch the block and all the smoke would have been let out of the wire. Art
 
Art In Mobile said:
I can only guess but the regulator went out at only 30,000 miles. This alternator was so hard to get to I did not just replace the regulator but also the alternator which has a removable regulator on it. It could be the regulator just went bad but in a little more cutting of that wire by the pulley it would have completely severed and then it could touch the block and all the smoke would have been let out of the wire.
Click to expand...

So it was the regulator, since the wire was not severed and the pulley is not conductive. Looks like the pulley was not the culprit but still a potential problem.

R
 
RLSHARP
I am a little confused about your question as you stated in the previous post "Phenolic plastic does conduct electricity" did you leave out the word (not) right after the word does? Phenolic does (not) conduct electricity which would be a true statement. My guess and only a guess, is that the wire rubbing on the plastic phenolic pulley set up a static charge at a high frequency and the regulator finally had enough and went bad. I find it more than a coincidence that the two problems happened at the same time. You could be right and the regulator just went bad all by itself with no help from the wire rubbing on the pulley. The end results is I took care of both problems.  I am very glad Ford used a phenolic pulley as I am sure that a metal one would have caused a fire. This is like the chicken and the egg, what happened first.
 
I spent two days surfing the web looking for my symptoms.  I have a 2006 Fleetwood Flair on a F53.  My dash also went out at five seconds.
A quick check showed a runaway alternator at 17v.  When it stops raining long enough, I can go take it to the next step. I just wanted to say thank you for your post.  GOOGLE is your friend.  Gary
 
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